Passat (B5) :: Engine Knock Noise When Engine Fully Warmed Up And In Drive Or Reverse
Mar 24, 2007
OK--2001.5 1.8t Tip, 85k, nothing but Mobil1 since day one religiously. At around 81k miles the t/belt tensioner seized & let the belt jump and bend a few valves. Had VW do the repair under the p.t. warranty. Engine now runs very well again except there is a knock noise that sounds an awful lot like a crank or rod bearing. The noise is worse with the engine fully warmed up and in drive or reverse. Took it back to VW, they said it's a bearing in the a/c compressor. Sounded like B.S. to me, since the noise is no different with or without the a/c on. I picked up the car & removed the a/c belt at home & found the noise was exactly the same. I've about had it with VW on this issue. Been back 3 times with the noise complaint, & the noise is getting worse!!
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3.5 has engine knock coming from oil pan, gets louder when engine fully warmed up. Suspect connecting rod bearings. 99 Intrigue has 203K on it and otherwise in excellant condition. Is it possible to replace connecting rod bearings with engine in car. What is involved in removing lower crankcase after oil pan is removed. Car has been trouble free so far and would like to get another 60K out of it
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Over the past few week my truck has developed a knock once it has fully warmed up. At first I thought it was possibly injector knock and kind of got excited about the prospect of upgrading to larger injectors. Well, my short lived optimism came to an end today once I got ahold of my father's mechanics stethoscope. So today I let it fully warm up and like clock work the knock came back. After going over nearly every inch of the top end, nothing was producing what I was hearing.
So I crawled under the beast and located the source. Right where the bellhousing mates the the engine block is where the knock is definitely loudest. At first I thought it was louder in while in gear but today it didn't matter if it was in gear or not. I removed the bellhousing cover and inspected what I could see of the flexplate. Couldn't see and cracks or breaks but from what I see through google searches is that it cracks behind the spacer. Now my first thought is that it's the flexplate but I'm hoping more experienced people can tell me what they think.
[URL] ....
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About a week and a half ago I took my 2008 ISF to Lexus to have them check out the ticking noise. My car has 63K miles on it and I notice the ticking noise after it is fully warmed up. I normally have just been driving it in Sport-Manual too. The sound seems to come from the driver's side fender well area and I hear it best when it is in drive in my garage or at a drive thru.
At first Lexus couldn't duplicate the sound even after driving the car. So I went to the dealership and drove the car about 10 mins for them to hear. The service advisor and a technician heard it this time. They had to call the regional Field Technical Service rep for direction on how to proceed. The FTS person recommend swapping the driver's side high pressure fuel pump to the passenger side to see if the noise followed the pump. I guess they've had problems in the past with the high pressure pumps on the LS models. I again went down to the dealer to drive the car and the noise stayed on the driver's side.
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I have a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500, 5.9L. My problem is it will not idle until the engine is fully warmed up. When I first start it, I need to keep my foot on the gas, if I let it go it dies.
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With about 32K miles, I started getting a knock in the morning that would go away when warmed up. When I took the car in for service, I mentioned it and the service adviser said, it sounds like the timing chain tensioner leaking down, we have seen that.
Well it was not the tensioners, I was informed that, it was low oil pressure that did NOT trigger the oil light or any warnings, and my main bearings and a rod bearing were shot, it seems that the oil pump was not putting out as it should. Supposedly, it was only putting out 10 PSI. Oddly enough once the engine warmed up, there was no lifter/tappet noise that would indicate low oil pressure that I have experienced in the past with other engines.
The oil has been changed on time, the oil was clean, and the engine was not abused. Other than this the car ran fine. So the short block was replaced under warranty. This is a 3.5 V6.
This is quite disturbing, that some type of low oil pressure message or idiot light was not flashing on my dash. I have seen oil pumps from other manufacturers produce low oil pressure if the pressure relieve valve was stuck open.
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I know this issue has been posted and discussed multiple times on early Gen 3 Prius'. That said, I don't see much on it regarding the Prius v ( lowercase v for the Prius v wagon, not an uppercase ). There is also of course a TSB for earlier Prius' that had the issue.
I can readily replicate the issue in that almost every time I 'think' it may happen the next time I start the vehicle, it does in fact do so.
If I move the vehicle from the garage to the driveway or around in the driveway to clear snow, the ICE fires for a few seconds then I shut it off as the car is where I need it. Upon the next ICE start, there is a horrible knocking under the hood somewhere. Different from the previous messages and the TSB itself is that I never get an error code or MIL.
I'm to the point where if I move the car, I let it warm up completely. I figure I'm better off wasting fuel than subjecting my Prius to whatever horrible thing is happening under the hood if I don't.
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My wife's RX is really starting to give me a headache. The first problem I'm having with this car is detonation. The car starts pinging at part/ light throttle once the engine is fully warmed up. The is no CEL or codes pending. After scanning the car it seems that fueling is right where it should be and nothing else seems out of order. The pinging stops when you hit the gas harder. So far the only way to rid the car of this problem is to fill with 93 octane and that gets expensive with a daily driver. Shouldn't the knock sensors be handling this? Is there a way to test them?
The second problem I have is the heat won't turn off. Hot air always comes out at what seems to be low fan. I can move the area it comes from ( dash vent, floor etc) but I can't turn it off. With the fan set to off and no settings chosen I still get heat.
The car currently has 78k miles on it
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What is this noise? Video included... [URL]... This noise comes up after the engine gets warmed up and only when the car is decelerating or idle. That is, as soon as I take my foot of the gas pedal the car starts making this noise and it is very loud. No error codes.
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2005 F250 6.0L ... My truck is running really rough when the engine isn't all the way quite warmed up. once the truck is fully warmed up to normal running temp it runs good. I am getting four engine codes. P0672, P0673, P0674, P0676 These codes say 2,3,4, and 6 glow plugs have a open circuit. Can this be the cause of my problem?
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After receiving the car from the body shop from a rear end collision. Noticed that when we put the car in reverse sometimes you hear a clicking or vibration noise while going in reverse.
Open the hood and had my wife put it on reverse and could not determine where the noise was coming from. You can hear it better in the cabin with the doors close. I thought it was coming from the serpentine belt at one time but could not determine if noise was from there. Did notice that when is engage in reverse the engine really moves.
2006 2.0t Camshaft, follower and HPFP replaced at 86K miles.Just replaced Vacuum Pump.
A/C System replaced at 84k miles.
Catalyst converter and downpipe replaced.
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I have a 2008 fx4 with 75000 km it runs great but when I go on a long ride up hills or tow my trailer it acts up only when I get to my destination. the engine will run really rough and knock loudly seems only when I use reverse or sometimes park (and oil pressure in dash looks good),and if I shut ignition off and restart it no problems till I make engine work hard again.
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I was being dumb and floored my passat in reverse. Now its making a really bad noise when i rev it or drive at all. It sounds like someone holding something against a moving tire or wheel or something. Not sure if its the tranny or a belt or what and there's a slight burning smell...
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When I start my 2001 passat 1.8T 155,000+, my car shakes like it feels like it needs to catch a second before starting fully, and when it does fully start it gives a good kick but then stops, just curious of what it could be and what it could run me, but its not the battery I know that?
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Our 2001 Passat wagon 4cyl turbo automatic has a random idle stutter. When sitting at a stop light the RPM's quickly drop and then regain idle. It happens at random times and only when idling after the engine has warmed up. It doesn't seem to matter if its in drive or park. What sensor could be failing or a possible cause? Over the past year the problem has increased from almost never to a few times at every stop light. My OBDII reader shows no codes. Car has 105K miles and I cleaned the throttle body.
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Mk7 GTI DSG is very uncomfortable to drive at speed between 40-50 Mph in "D" Mode. You can very clearly feel/hear Engine Lugging/Clutch slippage noise because the DSG slips in to 6th gear and the RPM goes below 1200. the noise become more pronounced if it is going up the hill or the A/C unit is on. The throttle response becomes really really slow. Clearly it is not in the right gear, use the paddle shifter to go down one notch it will be ok. So VW gives you two choices , drive like a maniac in DSG-S mode or drive like severely handicapped two legged tortoise.
It goes away if you are above and below the 40-50 mph range. Why would VW design a power train with such a serious flaw I cannot understand, considering all the small roads in USA force you to drive at that speed range. I did contact VW about this and the response is " it is as designed to improve MPG". Also every GTI reviewer in North America never mentions any of this. I just dont know what they review/Test drive, All are bunch of lap dogs and paid trolls of VW. How do i fix this annoying problem, I am afraid that this will damage the Engine/Clutch pack in the long run.
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When brake pedal is fully pressed and my car is in drive the pedal vibrates. The only thing I thought of is that my intake is touching something, but I don't see anything.
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Passat B6, 2009 TDI CR, 140 bhp, DSG.
Having an issue that's bugging me. all cold starts are fine. However, if I drive a short distance then try to restart the engine cranks, sounds like it catches but stalls.
It takes 2-4 retries to get it going, i'm not releasing the key too early as this happens even when I hold the key in.
I've not been able to get a VAG-COM on it yet but would like to know whether this is likely to be something simple or, if it's time to sell the car?
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I drive a 1999 Kia Sportage with 84,000 miles on it and recently the engine has been running rather odd. When I start the car, sometimes the engine will rev really high up to like 3000 rpm until I put it in reverse or drive. Also, lately when I am in drive and I stop, or slow down so it drops below 1000 rpm the engine will kind of rev down to 500 and then back to 1000. This causes the engine to kind of shake and has once caused it to shut off. Now I put it in neutral when I stop. What it could be?
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I bought a 2002 W8 92k Miles from a dealer for a very cheap price, KBB 9k, i paid 2k because there was a engine knock *gasp* i know. The body/interior is in good shape. From what I was told the noise was coming from the 'upper' part of the engine..I was hoping it was probably a bad lifter, not a big problem. So the car was trucked to me yesterday, it drives fine still but the engine noise was more severe than i thought. I'm 95% sure it's a spun rod bearing. I'm stressing .
I own a 2 ton gray monument. I cant spend that much money right now on just an engine and a rebuild might be just as expensive. I'm hoping (I need to stop that) that maybe i can drop the oil pan, inspect/remove the rod caps and maybe replace the bearings or push the pistons out the top. In my mind I know the crankshaft was probably scared too but im keeping my hopes high that it wasnt. If thats the case then the whole engine will need to be removed.
I know it not a good idea to buy a car with a knock but that was the condition or the purchase. I want to atleast try to get an idea of the work needed before considering parting it out.
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I have a 2009 Santa Fe that when the engine has warmed up, the engine starts making a ticking/clicking noise. The dealership told me not to worry all cars make that noise and it was probably just a purge valve. Does this sound right?
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