Passat (B5) :: Engine Knock Coming From The Upper Part
Jul 18, 2009
I bought a 2002 W8 92k Miles from a dealer for a very cheap price, KBB 9k, i paid 2k because there was a engine knock *gasp* i know. The body/interior is in good shape. From what I was told the noise was coming from the 'upper' part of the engine..I was hoping it was probably a bad lifter, not a big problem. So the car was trucked to me yesterday, it drives fine still but the engine noise was more severe than i thought. I'm 95% sure it's a spun rod bearing. I'm stressing .
I own a 2 ton gray monument. I cant spend that much money right now on just an engine and a rebuild might be just as expensive. I'm hoping (I need to stop that) that maybe i can drop the oil pan, inspect/remove the rod caps and maybe replace the bearings or push the pistons out the top. In my mind I know the crankshaft was probably scared too but im keeping my hopes high that it wasnt. If thats the case then the whole engine will need to be removed.
I know it not a good idea to buy a car with a knock but that was the condition or the purchase. I want to atleast try to get an idea of the work needed before considering parting it out.
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I have a 2014 VW Passat TSI 1.8, had it for about a year and have a little over 11k on it. Love the car, and have done a few mods to it. I am interested in replacing my standard rear view mirror with the auto dim. Is it even possible? I do not know if I have to plugs that I would correct my auto dim to because of my standard mirror. I do have the SOS as well, so I am not sure if that's all connected.
I also have a strange crackling noise that sounds like its coming from the upper trim of where the steering wheel is at. When I hols it down tight it seems to go away. It only happens when the car is warm.
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Where do u think it comes from?
[URL]....
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I have a 2003 passat. I have noticed, and its getting gradually worse, a knock that comes from the dash. I get one knock when I go round a corner and then a similar knock when I go round an opposite corner. Its as if something is rocking from side to side.
It sounds like its coming from behind the dash just off center to the left. Perhaps behind the passenger airbag? Its difficult to tell exactly.
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I recently bought a 2007 Passat 3.6 and am now noticing an odd sound from the motor. When I am at parking lot speed, just barely giving it gas (1000 RPM or so) I can hear a dull, almost rhythmic knock coming from the motor. It's similar to an exhaust "lub-dub" sound, but not. I brought it to the dealer under it's bumper to bumper warranty and they told me that it is a normal sound for the vehicle "in this configuration". Is this really normal?? I'm worried that it isn't, and just about the time I'm out of warranty it'll be a big deal. The car has 32K on it and the engine has 20K. Yep...it blew and was completely replaced at 11K.
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There is this *knocking* sound everytime i hit the brake. I don't know what it is?
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It only seems to happen every few days. I have noticed it when I come to a stop, then I hear a repetitive knock coming from under the front passenger side of the car. knock, knock... 7 times, in rhythm, not decreasing in volume, then it stops. Kind of like a gnome trying to get in from under the car... It does not sound like something is flapping or swinging as the knocks are consistent, it sounds mechanical in nature. The car is at the dealer right now for that and other things but they cannot get it to make that noise.
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I just got a new clutch and clutch slave cylinder in my 1998 Ford Explorer. Driving it home from the mechanic, I'm hearing a sputtering sound coming from what seems to be the lower part of the engine compartment. It sounds like a VW Bug exhaust. I've never heard this sound before. It's troubling that it has appeared now immediately following a repair. I presume there is a outside possibility that it's not the mechanics doing, but that seems improbable. (The engine was revving high right before the clutch blew out last week, so maybe those brief high revs caused some damage? I can't imagine that being the case.) Or was there something in the clutch repair process that could have resulted in this?
I made a recording of the sound here.......
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bought my car in 2008 with 19k already on it certified used. fast forward to 2012 and 102,000 miles on it engine has a knock coming from the engine block. I purchased a warranty 7/100,000 mile. Did oil changes myself every 5k full synthetic. when the car developed a knock i noticed the engine oil was scary low. Since i got my car from the time i got it at 19k and i bought the 7/100,000 mile warranty on top of that.
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I have an 03 Elantra and before joining this I have never paid much attention to the sound coming from the engine but now that ive seen a few videos and looked at some threads I think the engine in my Elantra knocks a bit.
Here is the video i was referring to in comparison - YouTube
It sort of sounds like this but a little less intense. Its definitely knocking but not as loud as the video. It does it all the time, not only when its cold but when its warm too... Its always sounded like that but I haven't ever paid any attention to it.
Anyways... after a whole day of reading about gas and octane and all that fun stuff I am not sure whether to try midgrade or primium gas...
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3.5 has engine knock coming from oil pan, gets louder when engine fully warmed up. Suspect connecting rod bearings. 99 Intrigue has 203K on it and otherwise in excellant condition. Is it possible to replace connecting rod bearings with engine in car. What is involved in removing lower crankcase after oil pan is removed. Car has been trouble free so far and would like to get another 60K out of it
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OK--2001.5 1.8t Tip, 85k, nothing but Mobil1 since day one religiously. At around 81k miles the t/belt tensioner seized & let the belt jump and bend a few valves. Had VW do the repair under the p.t. warranty. Engine now runs very well again except there is a knock noise that sounds an awful lot like a crank or rod bearing. The noise is worse with the engine fully warmed up and in drive or reverse. Took it back to VW, they said it's a bearing in the a/c compressor. Sounded like B.S. to me, since the noise is no different with or without the a/c on. I picked up the car & removed the a/c belt at home & found the noise was exactly the same. I've about had it with VW on this issue. Been back 3 times with the noise complaint, & the noise is getting worse!!
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I was driving home from a backpacking trip when I noticed a knocking coming from my engine. It got worse as I drove up a large hill and suddenly became very loud, and I lost the ability to accelerate, power steering and brakes.
I managed to pull off the road and checked all my fluids, everything was good. No smoke from the engine and it was not over heating. I was unable to start the car, it wouldn't even make a noise, just dead.
Check engine light is broken and remains on. No other warning lights came on while I was driving.
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The wife drove the Excursion (V10) to work today and it ran normal and didn't have any loud noises coming from under the hood. When she started the engine to return home it immediately started knocking. This is not a ping, but a knock. Not a loud heavy knock, but much louder than a ping. It has a fast frequency, seems too fast to be a rod knocking. The frequency is similar to a valve issue, but the knock seems to be too heavy for lifters. Oil looks good. Just changed out 2 weeks ago. Truck is driven everyday.
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Lexus 3.3L RX-330 Engine Noise - Part 3 - YouTube
I am concerned with an engine noise.
5 months ago we bought a 2005 Lexus RX-330. It had 109k miles on it (now has 113k). There is a faint but noticeable engine tap/ knock/ tick coming from the engine. I think it has the 3.3l, 3gr-fe engine.
I have listed some observations:
The sound does not occur on startup, when the car is completely cold.
The sound starts after 5-10 minutes of driving or idling.
The sound diminishes and is almost imperceptible after another 10 minutes of driving.
The sound is only noticeable at idle.
The sound/tap seems to occur about 5 times a second at 600 rpm (idle)
The sound increases frequency with rising of rpm.
At approximately 2k rpm the sound cannot be heard.
If the vehicle is stopped after driving, allowed to sit for 5-10 minutes and then restarted, the sound will be loudest even though the engine is still hot.
The engine is quiet overall with exception of this sound. The fuel injector sound is the next loudest sound.
The sound doesn't seem to have gotten louder in the last 5 months but it may have gotten just slightly louder by my estimation.
I can hear the sound inside the vehicle and outside as well.
No other symptoms are present. I had the timing belt, water pump, idler and tensioner replaced as maintenance and as a possible solution to this problem right after buying the vehicle.
The mechanic heard the sound but told me he wasn't sure of the cause. He and I agree that it sounds like an internal engine noise. It is not a pulley, idler or exhaust sound. The mechanic told me not to worry about it and it was a normal sound. He also said to start troubleshooting would get expensive. I am still concerned.
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My ex-wife has a 2008 Prius. When trying to get heat, either using Auto A/C or manual, the display panel shows that only the floor vents are open. However, forced air is flowing from the upper vents on the dash. The air from these vents is not warmed. It seems to be unheated outside air. It's unclear whether this is a new problem, since the owner doesn't know if this behavior has been there since she bought the car. She does report that the car has always taken a long time to get comfortable in winter.
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I drive a 2011 Elantra and like it quite a lot with the way it looks, interior space, beautiful lighting, fuel economy, etc.
I started hearing rattle while driving over even slight bumps; the sound seems to be coming from both of the upper halves of the B-pillars. Tried spraying plastic contact surfaces with silicon spray but squeaks are still there.
Simple inspection of the upper part of the B-pillar plastic (gray colored, in my case) shows that it has a significant gap between the plastic cover and the pillar...
So now I'm thinking to remove the plastic covers and see what may be at fault, to tighten the way it sits maybe. How to go about taking the thing apart (and then putting it back in place )?
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My daughter asked me to look at & listen to a horrible grinding noise coming from the upper right area of her Santa Fe's rear hatch. There was a plastic grinding noise coming from THIS:
It's the lock actuator for the rear hatch.
Sometimes it works.
Sometimes it doesn't.
Sometimes it makes that horrible plastic grinding noise.
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So i cant figure out how to remove the radiator side of the upper radiator hose. I pulled out the pin but i cant remove the hose.
Do I just pull it straight out? Or do I twist and pull? I dont want to break the connection.
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My 2010 GTI, which I bought in April of this year, has begun to rattle, mainly coming from the back part of the vehicle. I have taken it twice to the local dealer and of course this rattle mytsteriously goes away when they take it out on a road test.
One rattle area seems to be coming from the sunglass holder (sidenote: why the hell would they design them so bloody small? I mean, they barely hold any kind of sunglasses), but the main rattle is definitely coming from the back, possibly trunk area.
This is my first VW and I have been told the nature of a VW in the winter is that it rattles.
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I am replacing the driver side up front control arm as the ball joint has gone bad. Got a febi/bilstein arm and all the necessary bolts from ecs. Lifted up the car, front pinch bolt is seized of course so it is currently soaking in pbblaster. The nut came off fine, which I've read doesn't always happen.
On to my question, I loosened up the rear bolt on the control arm, but it has no room to come out? Ive been searching through old threads both on here and passat world for a diy. I found the one on audi world that many people link to. And it seems to skip over this little part.
As of now the only option I can think of is to cut the head off the bolt, and push force the rest of the bolt out. But then to reinstall the bolt would have to go in on the other side? I have a picture to hopefully better illustrate what I am talking about.
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