Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Check Engine Light Flashing - Running Rough With Tapping Noise
Jan 30, 2015
2005 F-150 4.6L 2WD, 268,000 miles....
Recently I got a flashing 'Check Engine' light and a rough running engine (along with a tapping noise) when I was passing someone (and pulling a trailer). I retrieved codes 300, 304, & 305. I can't swear to it, but I think the tapping noise started at the same time as the coil problem.
I replaced coils #4 & #5 (later that same day) and the engine smoothed back out but the tapping noise is still hanging around. The noise speeds up at higher RPM's and doesn't go away if I shift into neutral. Oil level and pressure are fine and I only use Motorcraft 5W-20 and Motorcraft filters (and change the oil every 5K miles).
Not sure if this is relevant: I think I have bad valve guide seals (blue smoke after long idles) but no other problems that I am aware of. It sort of sounds like a lifter, but is there a good way to pin it down? Is it possible that this tapping is related to the bad coils?
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Got an 07 Screw with only 50,000 miles. Yesterday, wife drove it home from work and said it would only do 45mph and didn't sound good. No warning lights were on, she said. I test drove it in the evening and it ran totally fine. Today, she drives it to work and said it ran real rough and "Check Engine" light was on. I picked it up from her work and it idles very rough and slow, and once you hit about 2000 rpm, it runs decent, maybe even normal. Below that, it stumbles and engine doesn't sound right. "Check Engine" light is either ON steady, or flashing. I don't have a code reader, so its likely going to the Ford Dealer Monday. Is there any way to read the code without a reader?
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Ok on the way the my 1997 f150 4.6 L 180,000 check engine light started flashing and running rough and then the light went off, Also we took the Aftermarket Dynomax muffler off of it earlier today if that makes any difference, it still has the Cat Converter, New Plugs and Napa Wires.....
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2006 F150 Triton 5.4 Motor... It's been over a months journey with fixing this truck....
How it started: had an oil change, a while back, on long drive after, check engine light started flashing as I accelerated up hill so I pulled over and in a while it was ok, but couldn't get on the gas too much, or it would cause that flashy light thing.
So fast forward to now, after driving it with an intermittent miss for a while, was driving it to work and the miss became a shudder, and she stopped going over 30-40, and runs extremely rough.
Steady but loud idle.
Replaced all plugs with motocraft plugs and new coils all around. No change.
Finally hooked it up to a computer and got random misfires, now it's saying
P0174 bank 2 too lean,
But it's bank ONE that's the only side misfiring.
Here are the freeze frame details:
Frame 1 Mod $00
MIL Status Off
Troub Code P0174
Abslt TPS 24.3%
Eng speed 1665
Baro PRS 71 kpa
Calc Load 100%
[Code].....
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I just had my 04 5.4l engine rebuilt. Ive driven it about 500 mi and it started running rough at a stoplight. I tapped the accelerator and it started running good again but service engine light came on. I pulled the codes and they were P0022, PO345, P0340,and P0430. It has done this several times now. Everything was replaced including the phasers, except for the camshaft sensors. Could they cause this problem?
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I have a 2004 VW Touareg with 116K miles. Yesterday the check engine light came on and she is running very rough at low RPMs. The manual tells me that there is either a problem with the exahust manifold or an O2 sensor is bad. It feels as if she is struggling for air. When you start the vehicle the check engine light flashes then stays on in the cluster. What can I expect when I take it in to the dealership? Is there anything I can check before I take it in?
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I just started to have this problem yesterday. Engine light comes on and stays on. Engine shakes and truck won't go over 50 MPH. Autozone code checker came up with P0171.
Truck has about 95K miles and I had the spark plugs replaced at 75K miles.
Transmission was rebuilt at around that time also.
I only drove it to Autozone and back today to post the code and see what everyone's opinion is as to what's wrong.
Here's what the printout says : P0171 "Fuel Trim Bank One Condition"
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I have a 2005 f-150 street boss with 79000 mile, and it is shooting off going down the road, and the check engine light is flashing. The first time I started it back up and it would idle fine, but the throttle wouldn't do any thing. After setting about 15 min. I started it up and it ran good. I checked the codes and it had a p2104 Throttle actuator control system forced idle. It happened again with my wife. This time when I checked the codes it had the p2104 and a p2112 throttle actuator control system stuck closed code. What could be the problem, or a troubleshooting guide I could use to try and diagnose it.
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My 3.0 with 216k miles has developed a rough idle and it progressively got better with new parts and cleanings. On startup it revs up to 2k then back down to 600. If I let it idle for about 8 or so minutes my Check Engine Light starts flashing. If I drive about for a little bit it stops and is just fine.
While the light is flashing I get codes P1000, P0305, P0306, and P0316. Which are OBDII Monitor Testing Not Complete, Misfire detected in Cyl 5, Misfire detected in Cyl 6 and Engine Misfire Detected on Startup (First 1000 Revolutions) respectively. Any other time the truck runs like a dream. Gets 20 city and 29.5 highway.
I cleaned my Mass Air Flow, replaced my Idle Air Control, SeaFoamed throttle body and vacuum lines, brand new coil pack, new wires, new plugs, new fuel filter, I've only ever run 91 octane, Chevron with Techron goes in at every oil change and B12 every other and I just ran 3 bottles of Lucas fuel injector cleaner.
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I just bought an '04 F150 from a friend. It has 250K miles on it. When I got the truck there were no tapping noises coming from the engine. Now that I changed the oil, at start up till about 5 miles down the road, I hear the tapping noise. I put Castrol high mileage 5W-20 in it. Could it just be the oil I'm using or something more expensive?
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We have a 2005 Prius with 77,400 miles on it. My wife came home from a short trip yesterday saying the engine was shaking the car and the CEL was flashing. About 4 months ago we also had the CEL come on but not flash and it ran a bit rough but not as bad as it is now. I was told by our local dealer that a flashing light is worse than if the light comes on and stays on. When this happened 4 months ago at 74,000 miles the dealer said they downloaded codes P300, 303, and 304 and that I needed to replace all 4 fuel injectors.
I realize that 300 is a general misfire code and 303 is a misfire code for cylinder 3 and 304 is for cylinder 4. After reading some advice on here 4 months ago, I cleaned my MAF sensor, ran some fuel injector cleaner through a tank of fuel, replaced all 4 spark plugs, and started buying Chevron gas. The CEL stayed off and our mileage went back to normal. I thought I had solved the problem but now this after 3000+ miles. I checked all the ingitors, connections, spark plugs, and wires yesterday and all seem to be in good condition. Maybe they were right and the fuel injectors are going bad. I am at a loss as what else to do other than take it back to the dealer now and plan do that this afternoon.
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My girlfriend has a 2002 F-150 with the 4.6 V8 and I was going to change the spark plugs for her. She said it started running rough and it threw a code and check engine light. She took it for a scan and they told her the number 5 plug was mis-firing. I'm fairly handy and bought a set of the recommended Motorcraft plugs from Rock Auto, AGSF32PM. It also matched the number in the owners manual so I thought I was pretty safe.
Funny thing, when I took the old ones out, they were AGSF22WM's instead. My thinking is they are a colder plug than the supposedly original equipment, but I don't think they've been changed before. They looked well used but the color was good. The truck has about 135K on it.
Long story short, and to get to the question(s), Would there be any reason the factory would have put a different plug in the engine than what is listed? Am I asking for trouble going with a hotter plug than what's been in there (pinging or timing retardation/loss of power)? Am I just overthinking the whole thing and need to put it back together and drive it?
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I have a 2001 elantra 2.0 gls. It is running rough with low power and flashing engine light. It may have a bad 02 sensor but when checked for spark only the 2 and 3 cylinders were sparking. I can confirm this because when I unplugged the 1 and 4 spark plugs it made no difference in the way it was running. Next I tested the resistance on the coil packs. Both were an even 1.5 ohms. How can it be that the coil packs are good yet the plugs aren't firing? I also have moved plug wires around and have had no success.
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The X has been running great, well good enough, lately with no issues. I left work the other morning, and apparently the X didn't want to wake up that early. As soon as I started it up, the check engine light came on and it was running like crap. Had a bad hesitation all the way home. It feels like it is misfiring, but only under load. It doesn't do it if I brake torque it or Rev it up. Only while driving.
The codes I am getting are in the P035x family (typed that way for future searches). P0353 and P0358 are the codes I am getting (along with 4x4 codes for the vacuum solenoid...but that's the solution to other problems not relevant to this!). Being codes for the primary circuit, I popped the hood and checked out the connectors. Both connectors are fine, and tightly connected. I did notice however that cylinders 3 and 8 have other than OEM coil packs on them. These are the only 2 cylinders with those coil packs (they are white and the other 8 cylinders have black coils).
I don't want to just throw parts at it, and I'm not getting a hard miss fire code, just the 2 above. I might try to swap the coils with other cylinders tonight and see if the codes move to those cylinders. It has run like this a few times, but never set a code, and turning it off and back on has "fixed"this in the past.
And just for complete disclosure, while looking for where I saved a password, I found notes from August last year where I pulled codes, and these two codes were present then, with a cylinder 7 hard miss fire code. I replaced the c7 coil with motorcraft cleared the codes, and P0353 and P0358 went away and I haven't seen them since. The plugs are brand new and only have about 1000 miles on them (changed them in September when repairing the misfire and I don't drive it much).
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I started out with my 2000 F150 with a 5.4 V8 running rough at idle. It would idle way down slow and then rev up a little over and over. On a couple of occasions it would even die when in drive or reverse. I did finally get a Check Engine light so i put it on my diagnostic program to see what was up. Here is what I got:
P1151 Lack of HO2S21 Indicates Lean
P0171 System Too Lean Bank 1
p0174 System Too Lean Bank 2
After doing some reading up I checked all my vacuum hoses and cleaned my mass air flow sensor. I then got the same codes again after a few minutes of running. So I went to the next thing that was recommended, the upstream bank 2 O2 sensor. After changing it the truck ran fine for a couple of days, no issues. Then all of the sudden it idled a little funny again and I got a Check Engine Light again. This time:
P0171 Bank 1 Lean
P0174 Bank 2 Lean
P0300 Random/Multiple Misfire
I reset the light to see if I would get the same again later. Before the light came on again I filled my truck up with gas and it seemed to be running pretty good again. Then a day or so later it set the light again. This time:
P0171 Bank 1 Lean
P0174 Bank 2 Lean
P0136 O2 Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0156 O2 Circuit Malfunction Bank 2 Sensor 2
P1131 Lack of Switches HO2S11 Lean
P1151 Lack of Switches HO2S21 Lean
I went ahead and drove for a few days as it had gotten really cold here and I didn't feel like messing around in my shop since it isn't heated. A couple days ago I needed gas so i filled up again. Suddenly the problem was gone again. Truck ran fine idled fine no missing or odd idling at all. That lasted a day or two before it started acting a little weird again. At that point i was down about 1/8 of a tank from full. I have read that there can be issues with the fuel pump.. I am kind of wondering if that may be it now. But I haven't had to deal with this sort of issue before so I am unsure what to check next. The truck always runs fine off idle, it only seems to have the issue when it is idling. I had reset the codes the last time and i have the light on again now. I haven't checked it yet but I am sure it is going be some combination of what i have had in the past.
I have read that the IAC valve can be an issue as well. I had a problem with mine sticking a couple years ago and when it would do it you could just tap it with a wrench and it would idle up. But it never died like it does now and it would also idle a lot slower than it does. Back then I cleaned the valve and had no more issues with it. The truck has always had times when it would act weird at idle usually after slowing down after being at highway speed. The current issue happens at all temps cold or hot.
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I replaced the heater core in my truck this weekend. The only thing I was worried about was pulling the dash. The truck is a 1998 f150 with the 5.4.. Everything went fairy well and decided to replace the AT Shift cable as well. Got everything put back. Truck runs, no leaks, no antifreeze smell. After running about 20 minutes, it started idling a little rough and my check engine light came on.
The codes are p0136, p0156, p1131, and p1151. I know these are related to the OS sensors. My question is could it be as simple as I miss an electrical connection when putting the dash back in? Was thinking possibly somewhere on the passenger side under the kick plate or possibly something while hooking up the heater hoses? Maybe even a ground that didn't get connected back when putting the das back in?
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I have a 2003 ranger and have had ongoing problems with misfire cylinder six and have had three different mechanics diagnose the problem as a bad ground. I have replaced all plugs, wires, coil pack, injectors and am constantly pulling the plug on cylinder six, cleaning and often replacing, I also disconnect the battery so it resets the check engine light and it runs fine for about 100 miles and starts running rough again and on goes the check engine light. I have 134000 miles and have maintained it since new.....
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I have been experiencing some issues with my '06 rio5 (same engine as your hyundais). this forum is way more active than the kia forums, so figured id give it a shot here.
I am experiencing a rough idle at start up while the car is low on fuel (<1/4 tank). it idles rough for a few seconds, the check engine light flashes a bit, and then it runs fine.
The car is an '06 rio5 with approx 19k miles on it, five speed manual. Also, sometimes after refueling and it will just shut off while waiting at an intersection. Not sure whether these two issues are related, but thought i would mention it just in case they were.
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Well it finally happened, a couple of weeks ago I was headed to an MX race and my check engine light came on and it started running rough. Long story short a piece of an exhaust valve broke off and went out through the head. Dealer has been great even though I was 300 miles from home and they did get me a rental(small POS SUV). Truck was supposed to be finished this week, but now they are saying the head gasket is on back order and they probably won't have one until the middle of April......... I can't be without my truck that long, but not much I can do. By the way truck is completely stock with just under 20K on it, and I have never had any issues with any of my Ford trucks or Ford diesels, even my old 6.0.
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It is a 2002 or 2003 Chevy truck with a diesel engine. He was going down the road the other day under normal driving conditions when the motor made a racket and then white smoke started coming out of the back like a chimney. The truck will still crank and run (and smoke), and now there is a knocking or tapping noise that is coming from the engine. The engine is running kind of rough, and has the tapping or knocking sound, but it will calm down for 1/2 a second at which time the rough idle and noise stop, but quickly return. There is no engine code showing, so my code reader is useless. I once had a Chevy 350 with a spun main bearing that sounds similar, but the motor didn't idle rough or smoke. I don't know enough about diesel engines. I was told there was a possibility of a bad injector pump or bad injector itself. Is there any way of testing this yourself, or does it require a shop trip?
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the F150 of my brother has the follow diseases:rough running ticking noises, low mileage per gallone, blue smoke out of exhaust after start, i have ordered the cam phaser, hope, that will be the reason. But today, my brother means, i have to do a test drive, because the truck has no power. and really, feels like missing of one or two cylinders. Very bad performance. Is it possible, that the reason are the phasers?
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