I have broken alum housing it looks bad , but still works. I can get two after market from rock auto for one 50.00 and anther for 60.00, the dealer is getting 160.00 what do I do?
View 6 RepliesSo the fuel pump module on my truck is falling apart, and I figured I might as well replace it....
View 10 RepliesFirst it was the whole spark plug debacle. Now it's the "fuel pump module". Story starts a several months back. On a moist day I was headed out and the truck ran very rough, "clunky", like it wasn't getting gas. After 15 miles and a stop truck ran fine. Didn't think much of it and truck ran fine for month or so. I was then away for a couple days and came home to find my truck wouldn't run (started briefly then died). Local mechanic thought it might be a fuel pump issue but then got truck running thinking it might have been a delayed inertia switch in front panel (I had hit a deer a week or 2 prior). Again, not thinking much of it continued to drive truck with no issues for awhile. Then one rainy morning on my way to work the truck was running very rough and "clunky" again. It died several times and finally for good.
After getting it towed to the mechanics, he figured the fuel pump was finally shot. The end to my long story is it was the fuel pump module (luckily a lot cheaper fix than the fuel pump) - half of the housing was gone (corroded away) adn moisture was shorting the pump electronics. Why, if this module is half encased in plastic do the engineers feel the need to encase the other half in metal (appeared to be cast aluminum)??!!????!! Of course it makes sense to have an electrical unit that is mounted underneath the truck where it can collect all the moisture, snow, salt from the road encased in a corrodable metal housing. No no, don't put it all in plastic, just half of the unit. MAKES PERFECT SENSE!! I thought to be and engineer took some sort of brains and common sense. Must be not at Ford. I can't be the only one with this issue and wondering WHY!!! - it must be widespread??
I know this has been an issue for awhile and many may know about it but many probably don't. The issue is dirt and salt debri etc get packed behind the Fuel pump driver module rot it out and without warning you have a crank no start or worse it dies going down the road then you and the family are stranded or worse while towing on a trip. I made a video on how it happens and how to fix it with the solution Ford came up with. It is worth checking even if you don't seem to be having any issues yet......
View 5 Replies5.4 L, Engine runs if primed at the intake. Fuel pump can be heard running but no fuel gets to the engine. Truck is mint and being sold real cheap due to this issue.
Fuel Pump? Filter? Both? I haven't seen the truck, a friend is considering buying it and rolling the dice it is a quick fix. Fuel is in the tank .....
How difficult is it to change the fuel pump module?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 f150 fx4 no start.fuel pump doesn't run. I have power at pump connector but the ground has high resistance.did visual on harness and connectors nothing found.I don't have access to a diagram to chase it any further.?
View 1 RepliesMy brothers 2002 F150 4.6l has a starting problem of when he shuts it off it will be hard to start sometimes. If he lets it sit for a while it will start right up. I did a search a looks like the fuel pump modules are subject in these trucks. The search also have them mounted on a cross member by the spare tire, this truck does not. My question is where is the fuel module located on the truck?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 F-150 supercrew 4.6L with appx 127,000 miles on it. Back in December i took the family to a drive in movie and left the ignition turned to the on position. I jumped the battery and drove a few miles home. The next morning when i tried to start the truck it would not turn over. There was a buzzing noise coming from the fuel pump but not enough juice to turn the truck over. This has happened a few times in the last couple of months but will jump and run fine for weeks at a time. I've taken a 2500 mile round trip to Texas with no issues. I took a 200 mile trip this past weekend and now it will not start. I'm thinking it could be the fuel pump relay? I went to the parts store and bought a relay but it's not the same size as the one in my Haynes Manual. The part from the store is the same size as the bigger relays in the kick panel fuse box but does not match any of the plugs. According to my manual the fuel pump relay should be a smaller relay.
View 4 Repliesok i was just driving my 2004 ford f150 truck and it stopped running. I turned the key and it started back up again and then while on idle it stopped again. I took it too auto zone and it showed a code of p1237 which as far as i can see says fuel pump secondary circuit failure. does that mean i need a new fuel pump and how hard is it to replace.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 F-150 Supercab King Ranch 4wd. The 4wd is not working. Took it to the dealer and they tell me the 4wd module is not communicating with the PCM. It is my understanding that this problem is rare...like 1 in a million. Ford wants to replace the entire PCM. In the past, I have had electrical problems with this vehicle due to corroded wires.
View 9 RepliesDoes my truck have a keyless entry module? If so where is it?
View 9 RepliesWhat could cause code P0607 - Control Module Performance?
Truck seems to be driving fine (except it just recently developed what I think is either the cam phaser tick or an exhaust manifold leak on the passenger side).
I haven't tried clearing the code to see if it comes back. This is on a 2006 F150 FX4 with the 5.4L...
2004 f150 - Airbag light was flashing. Received recall letter. Dealer replaced a wiring harness. Dealer did not confirm functionality of airbag prior to leaving shop. Light continues to flash. New diagnostics from dealer says error code 1885 - the control restraint module needs replacing in P&L. Does the code match the fix? Can a novice mechanic replace the module?
View 2 RepliesWhere is the Throttle Actuator Control Module Processor on a 2008 5.4L? Is it built into the throttle body, or integrated into the PCM?
View 4 RepliesI worked with my buddy troubleshoot and remove a faulty fuel pump. He received it a week or so later and did the install himself. After this, he states that while pumping gas at the gas station the nozzle no longer cuts off automatically when full causing overflow. He says this has happened at different stations and different pumps. I told him to go double check connections and that everything was sealed. I am wondering what could be causing it..
2004 Passat v6 wagon auto
06/2003 Touareg V8 Driver side fuel pump shut off after 15-20 sec after start is that normal? I know that the passenger side is stuck and needs to be replaced but just wanting to be sure that the driver side pump is supposed to act like this.
View 1 RepliesAt some point I learned that the fuel pump is supposed to go off when I open the driver side door and after I notice it stopped I took it to a shop shop and they tried to get it to start and had to bang it wit a rubber mallat , after that they told me the pump has failed so I bought a new one (VDO) brand and installed it myself the car felt like it drove better and it made the noise when I open the driver side door in the mornings a couple of weeks after it stopped and I felt my car was back to how it was before , I still get the noise when I turn the key 3/4 of the way and have no issues starting the car coincidentally, I am noticing my car wont lock when I use the keyfob unless I do it manually, is the pump not priming because of the door module has failed too?
View 2 RepliesGot this 04 Escape 3.0 FWD for my son's first car. It was his mom's and she drove it for years and parked it when she got another car.
I charged the battery and it is holding a good charge. Car would crank but not start. Fuel pump was not coming on. I pulled it out and applied 12V to the connector terminal and it started running so I put it back in and it worked fine.
Drove it home and cleaned it up, pulled out the bad window regulator, put it in the driveway till the next weekend.
After it sat for 3 days it would not start again. The fuel pump was not coming on. I assumed that the old pump that I revived had died again so I bought a new one and put it in and it ran fine.
Went for inspection but OBD2 was NOT READY so I drove it about 60 miles until it threw 3 codes. P0136, P2270, P2271 (O2 sensor problem).
I parked it again to wait till my next chance to work on it. 3 days later I was going to replace the O2 sensor but when I tried to start it the new fuel pump was not coming on again. (2nd fuel pump to die while sitting in the driveway).
So I figured the new fuel pump was a dud maybe, so I returned it and got another new one and put it in and it worked fine again. So I replaced the O2 sensor. Didn't have time to drive it 60 miles again to READY the OBD2 system for inspection so I parked it for a couple more days.
2 days later I was going to drive it around to make the OBD2 READY for inspection and again the fuel pump does not come on.
3 dead fuel pumps doesn't make sense to me so I have been considering it could be the Fuel Pump Driver Module but have read that's not an issue on the Escape like it is on the trucks. Plus I have been unable to locate where it is on this vehicle.
I have a 2004 F150 XLT 5.4 L 79,000 miles. Yesterday i was driving home turned a corner and the low fuel light came on and the fuel gauge is well below empty. I had approx 1/2 tank of fuel when it happened. I have since filled tank all the way but the gauge will not move and low fuel light stays on. Everything else is working fine! I have never run the truck low enough on fuel to make the dummy light come on.....
View 5 RepliesI have been without my dub for over a month mk4 gti/golf awp motor 1.8t manual transmission and have ran multiple scans and replaced multiple parts. I am suffering from a no start condition, start and stall immediately, and have troubleshot many problems.
Most recent vcds scan results are: intermittent door module fault (not faulty, not implausible, "intermittent") (j386) Speed sensor implausible (g28) (already replaced with no change) open circuit or short b+ fuel level sensor fault.
I have had the driver side door taken apart on multiple occasions and found: no cracked joints on the pcm of the LOCK module (solder covered by brownish/gold sealant?) Two breaks, 1 in the ground and 1 in the hot wire between the chassis and the door and since applied electrical tape to the chafed part of the door wire harness. I have ran multiple scans since applying the tape with various results.
After applying a maintainer and verifying full charge on BRAND NEW BATTERY I ran scan with above codes.
I have in the last month replaced coolant temp sensor, fuel filter, fuel pump relay, above mentioned battery, and installed toggle switch to lock module micro-switch, speed sensor. About 5-10k miles ago I replaced the fuel pump with vemo brand from ecs tuning and fuel pump relay.
I have re "seated" and cleaned all terminals, below and on the battery as well as on the transmission, have "checked" the ground just in front of the ecu and removed enough parts to place my hands on it to check for a loose condition. Also checked ground on top of block next to coil packs. I've checked pillar a for chafing and the ground next to pillar A and the ground just below the CCM.
I have also taken a mallet and attempted to re create this door slamming condition by tapping everywhere around the door jam on the chassis and door with no change. Also with the door LOCK module removed, I have tapped on it to see if pump would prime, no change...........
After sitting in my recaro imitation cloth seat totally defeated I realized that the intermittent fault code was pointing the "integrated window motor/DOOR module" that was the only thing I hadn't attempted to "test" (originally thought window motor was only a window motor)
Verified continuity to the door module, and verified continuity to relay panel, fuel pump and lock module........... Also tapped on the DOOR module itself with no change.
Piece the whole door back together, slam the door and bam fuel pump primes........... (also massaged the repaired-chafed wires before and after re-installing back into door, with no change/prime.) After sitting a while sometimes it will prime by itself......(with any of the 3 fuel pump relays I have for this car)..
Replacing 1 fuel part after the other over the 4 years I've owned the car has temporarily resolve my issue, until now. (Also have tapped around gas tank/retainer ring on the pump to see if fuel level sensor fault was a culprit). I don't believe this to be the issue because I've netted this fault in the past and has never cause a no start condition or come back after clearing when replacing fuel related part.
After slamming the door I have noticed the pump primes in waves, like a hum hum hum instead of 1 solid hmmmmm and when the car DOES start (when the pump primes) the pump continues the hum hum hum condition before dying. (I have gone as far as a test drive and I rev the engine and put in gear but acts as if i have a bad clutch, all rpms, no horse power like it's slipping condition from a bad clutch
immo light goes off when key in on position, epc and check engine light are off after car STARTS when slamming the door. With key in on position hear a loud click under hood (relay station I'm certain) but the throttle body buzz's until the chime sounds with door open (have not tested this when it DOES prime.....)