Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: JBA Short Tubes Or Pace Setter Long Tubes?
Mar 8, 2012
Made the decision to go with headers to replace the cracked exhaust manifold. Looking at JBA short tubes or pace setter long tubes Which is better? Just use the truck to pull boat to lake. 5.4 F-150 FX4
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Well at 200,008 miles it's time to change my newly leaking EGR pipes. Is there gaskets that goes with these parts? difficult to install? Part numbers? no "installation kit".
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Went to change plugs on my '01 F250 5.4. When I pulled the coils, there was antifreeze in the tubes. Intake manifold gasket? How big a job, both in driveway or at shop.
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I was doing a tune up of my 09 camry with an 2.4L engine due to a rough idle problem i have been having , and I noticed a lot of orange colored dust in one of the 4 spark plug tubes, I mean a lot of it while the other 3 were dust free. I tried my best to clean it out and inspected the spark plugs all seems to be fine. What could be the cause of the dust?
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SFS less than 2K miles, noticed coolant on garage floor, chked coolant bottle nearly MT. Dropped engine air flow control panel. Found fresh coolant and stains running dwn both metal tubes leading to trans cooler. This is the 3rd Hyundai vehicle in 15 yrs, first negative experience, off to the dealer.
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I have a 1998 F150 with 14300 plus miles. 4.6 engine. I have been smelling antifreeze after a drive long or short. I have looked for leaks but not finding anything.
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been off and on having problems with my r/f speaker cutting out, not completely-i get a little noise from it. ive replaced the speakers in the front but found since i have the audiophile system, they sounded terrible. i removed what i believe to be a crossover from the factory speaker & reinstalled the crossover with the factory connector & tweeter, but spliced in the new 6x8s. this made it sound wonderful again. now i still seem to be having the problem and found if i unplug the radio and plug it back in it will work good again for a short period of time.
my question is can i use any ford radio that looks like it is the same, I like the ones with the chrome on thje. Or should i just get a kenwood or something. i dont want to spend a ton of money. and will an aftermarket head unit decrease sound quality since i have the audiophile as the speakers originally did without the crossover.
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I am suddenly getting 8 mpg decrease both long and short trips. Rotated tires, checked psi and did an alignment but couldn't find cause. I remember my old car had an engine thermostat and when that was stuck open or close the mpg decreased a lot too.
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My 2008 did a strange thing last night -- the ICE was short cycling at a stoplight. It would start and then immediately turn off, then immediately start again. It did this about 5 cycles. Cold night, coldish engine, heater on, recent repair from being rear-ended (5 days since got it back from body shop). 12V battery seems good (12.3 volts no load, car not in ready mode; 11.6V withheadlights on and car off). No purpose could be served by such short cycles. We turned off heater and then the light changed and we were rolling forward and engine short cycled one more time and then the behavior stopped for the rest of the trip.
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2005 5.4L She would have a hard time starting before but after I replaced and fixed everything below she was running really good. Now back to sputtering, taking a long time to start and now not starting at all.
I have replaced; Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, FPDM, Plugs and COP's, FRP Sensor, followed the power wire from the FDPM and found it corroded bad so I replaced it, also changed the ground location on the FDPM, I have checked all the wires from the FDPM to the drivers seat, checked all fuses.
I have power to FPDM and I have the diagram for the plug but how can I test (hotwire) the Fuel Pump without lowering the fuel tank? What should be the voltage coming from the FPDM plug? not sure about pin 1 & 6.
How can I test the FRP sensor? what are the specs for voltage?
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Will it drain the battery to leave the rear hatch open for extended time? i.e. for tailgating or camping (2008 Prius)
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2003 PT Cruiser won't start immediately after short trip with a short stop. Always does start after turning the key and holding it to start position. The check engine light is often on and the code is for a cam shaft sensor or resistor sensor. A companion problem is the cruise control. If the check engine light is OFF and I use the cruise control, it works fine for a while and then the check engine light comes on at the same instant the cruise control turns off. Are these 2 issues connected? How much should it cost to have the sensor replaced? The car always stays running once it starts and the problem occurs randomly. What are the consequences of not repairing it?
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This weekend I was driving home from my parents and noticed that on flat ground at a constant pace there seemed to be surging of some sort...Although I am not sure that surging is exactly what it was, but it is the best word to describe it.
Basically, if I kept my foot at an even speed (not accelerating or decelerating) I would get very subtle movement in what seemed to be either the differential or the transmission. No error codes were thrown and the battery gauge was spiked at 14 solid.
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I have a 2005 accent with a 5 speed, it has about 80,000km on it.... mainly city driving. Lately, once the car is up to temp. as I pull away from a stop the car makes a loud noise and I really need to feather the clutch out. The noise continues after shifting into second gear ,but no other gears. Thus happens under normal acceleration. If I pull away extremely slow the noise isn't there. If I don't feather the clutch the car lurches like I'm just 'dumping' the clutch and driving like someone who is just learning to drive. Sometimes there is also a whining noise in second gear if I am accelerating at a normal pace. Where I should start looking? I am assuming it's the clutch due to the fact that it happens after everything warms up.
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My parents have a 08 trailblazer and the brakes stick. basically sometimes you stop and wait at a light or a stop sign, let off the brake and you can feel them stick for about a second and then release. they took it to the dealer, they said they felt it also but dont know what it is. we know its related to the brakes cause they take it there and they say they cleaned up the brakes and then it wont do it for a week or two then it will start doing it again. its still under warr. What it might be?
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I have a 2006 volkswagen passat 3.6 litre v6- have had this car about a year now, 60,000 miles, no problems until recently. Last week I started noticing that when I am driving, with my foot on the gas, it would intermittently act as if it was decelerating at a rapid pace( will drop gears, is NOT a coast)- even when I floored it!! As soon as it stops responding to the throttle I can floor it, nothing will happen, then let the gas peddle go- then reapply gas and it will act perfectly normal- no flooding, no nothing!! I have been able to keep it floored( while it is decelerating) for about 30 seconds, and it seems to make no difference.
The only other problem that I have recently noticed was that my cruise control was acting only intermittently as well. Oh, also while all this is happening it isn't throwing any check engine, or error lights. I have taken it to the dealer, and also to another specialty mechanic( with master certified technicians) and neither seem to find any problem with the vehicle, the only code that they said was found was one to the mass air flow??, but they weren't sure that was actually the problem, as, of course, they cannot seem to replicate my problem, even though it is now happening quite a lot. I am worried about driving my car now as it is quite a hazard when it decelerates rapidly, and to top it all off, we were supposed to leave for a 2,000 mile road trip in 10 days.
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109,000 miles into my 2009 Prius with no problems, I'm having an annoying issue with the alarm. Sometimes - about half the time, without any discernible reason - when I power the car on, it gives three rapid, very short honks. I can't relate it doing this to anything - doors can be open or closed, it can have sat for a week or have just been turned off, ect. I have the KARR factory alarm thing installed, but it seems to function normally.
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I sometimes pulloff after a minute then Im off, but slowly until the engine temp gets to the middle. I won't go caveman on it until the oil temp is almost in the middle too (never quite gets to the middle for the engine oil temp)
Is this logic right? Lexus guy told me it'll warm up as you go. If it was like zero degrees out then yes Id let it idle for 10-15 minutes.
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Headers will probably be the next mod that I do to my F, I have read a good bit about them on here, but no one really says anything about how they are doing long term ( any issues from heat on engine bay plastics after years of use) or how the coating holds up after years of use as track or DD or just anything else that seems to be an issue over time after being installed.
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I have an 08 LS460 with 50k miles on it. Most of it city miles. I'm an average driver and not too hard on my brakes. How long should they last?
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I have 2008 LX, i press brake, green light comes on, pressing button to start everything goes to work (radio, lights, vents etc) but not engine, it does 4 long beeps, then continues beeping. Tried with both keys and both immobilizers, tested batteries, they all good.
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