I had a loose bulb in my overhead interior light I tightened the bulb and now the gauges quit working the sunroof, rear window, air compressor, windows, radio and airbag warning flashes?? I checked the appropriate fuses in the panel fuses and the 30 amp breaker all good??
View 1 RepliesWhile sitting at the heliport waiting on the rain to stop I noticed my rear window is leaking right above the sliding window. I'm kinda worried about this while I'm offshore because I have a power sliding window and I don't want it to ruin anything that moves the window. Do these trucks have a problem with this and where do I start to look at to fix this?
View 2 RepliesMy prob started with key in ignition warning alarm working with no key, then radio on off at will and interior light not working or delay not turning them off when door closed. Now all gauges and warning lights/alarms go out also. If I open door and key alarm is on all systems work at that moment and without touching truck alarm can stop at will, at that point ignition alarm, interior light, radio and gauges do not work. When I giggle key with truck running the door ajar alarm activates when system working!
View 4 RepliesI just bought a 2004 ford f150 larait 5.4 supercrew. My back window wouldn't open and when I hit the switch. I checked the fuse but it still doesn't work. I want to tear in to it but not sure where to start?
View 4 RepliesI am looking at buying a 2004 Lariat and everything works beautifully on the truck with one exception, the passenger rear window. When the switch is pressed it not only doesn't move but there are no signs that the motor or regulator are working. The salesman grabbed the window and proceeded to say it was probably just "stuck". The window moves up and down about 1/4-1/2 an inch almost like it is not bolted to the track. Seeing as how I am new to this vehicle are there any common issues?
View 3 RepliesI have an 04 lariat extended cab truck with the sliding rear window, but i have a leak somewhere back there. I have noticed that water literally drips right in the top middle of the window, but around the window is dry. Also, the roof interior trim is wet at the corners in the rear closest to the door. i do have a cracked 3rd brake light, is that the reason it is leaking or is there a seal somewhere else outside on top of the truck, maybe around the rear window as a whole?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 F-150 5.4L Extended Cab. The windows have to be rolled up by hand and would like to know if there is a way to converted to power window and maybe locks too.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2008 RX350. When i shut off the engine and pull the key out i hear a constant clicking sound. I dont really know where its coming from but i can kind of pin point it maybe to the windows or door i'm not too sure. I also notice the interior light flickering to the same pattern as the clicking noise.
Second problem - in the middle of the night the alarm goes off! Its the alarm without the horn noise. For some reason i cant switch it off with the fob key. No matter what i do i cant switch it off. So it goes on for about 20 seconds and stops. I just leave the car unlocked after that and it doesnt come back. The alarm noise is coming from the boot....
Third problem Now the navigation screen flickers. Blacks out then the lexus emblem appears then switches back on itself.
2004 Lariat. Ford F150, 5.4 Triton. Whenever I slow down, stop, or turn my truck will read low oil pressure, then all my gauges drops and it stalls out. I've taken it to my mechanic twice now. And twice he's replaced two sensors. Today I took it to Wal-Mart for an oil change and they said its probably why my check engine light is on code, T19. I've had that light on for 4 years now and this stalling out problem starts 3 months ago. So far its had regular oil changes, new air filter, two new sensors and im scraping money to throw at it. Hitting snow banks, other vehicles, and tree's... need to find the real problem before I go broke or worst kill someone in an accident.
View 1 RepliesI have a 08 F150 king ranch and have a couple of issues. There is a strange sound coming from the dash behind the gauges it sounds like a computer hard drive clicking and the heater seems to be stuck on will not even blow outside fresh air.
View 1 Replies2004 F150, 4.6 V8. I'm wondering if my engine control module is going bad.
A few weeks ago I got into it in the morning, turned the ignition on, gauges responded as expected, warning lights on, etc. After starting the engine, all of the gauges peg to the left, and sort of "tremble", as if they were trying to keep going past the stop. After 5 seconds or so, they move up normally. This happens every time I start it now.
Since this weird gauge behavior started I have had to disconnect the battery to clean the negative terminal. After reconnecting it started experiencing idle problems. It idles smoothly, hitting on all 8, but it wavers. I found instructions in the owners manual for "relearning the idle and fuel trim strategy". It's been a over a week since doing this, and it still wavers and throws a P0506 error periodically, which I have been clearing. Twice while coasting the tachometer has jumped up to around 2000 rpm and the engine cut off, like maybe it thought the engine revved and closed the throttle to "slow it down".
My question is, have I just not waited long enough for it to re-learn to idle, or is it possible the engine control module is starting to fail?
My truck was fine yesterday morning, but when I got in it after work, nothing worked. The power windows, radio, ac, gauges all stopped working. Everything else does - power seat, wipers, turn signals....etc. What is going on?
View 2 RepliesI just installed my Edge Evolution from my 2006 F-150 5.4 into my 2008 F-150 5.4. It is not displaying oil temperature. It just shows 0 degrees. why?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 F150 (New Body Style) with 5.4L 3v and about 266k miles. My Alternator finally bit the dust and my instrument cluster went from reading speed, temp level, odometer, RPMs to being blank and all needle gauges bottoming out on the "0" side. Removed Alternator and had it tested, found Alternator Failed tests. Ordered and Installed New aftermarket 110a Alternator. Battery was fully charged (13v) and passed load test out of the truck. After installation, started the truck with no problem, instrument cluster gauges all read normal when turning key to on position, after starting and let run, instruments and gauges blacked out and returned to "0". Battery was reading 13v and with truck running read about 17v. What could be causing this?
View 3 RepliesThe battery light came on in my '04 F150 a couple of days ago. Terminals were in need of cleaning, so I took care of that. The next day after driving 50 miles to and from work, the battery light came on again, along with the ABS & Brake light started flashing. After shutting the truck off, it would not start.
Three days later, I have now installed a brand new alternator and battery, only to have the same symptoms pop up about one minute after start up. The warning lights are now accompanied by the passenger airbag light and all engine instruments needle sweep back and forth. Dash lights go dim and bright intermittently as RPM varies.
Do I need old fault codes cleared or is this a PCM issue?
I think the rear cargo light on my dad's 06 F-150 might be leaking. Had a water stain trail down the back seat. Is this very common? Is it hard to replace the gasket/seal in the light? I dont really think it's the seal that holds the back glass in.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 Ford F150 4.6L V8 4X4 Supercab. I developed a problem with my interior lights where they will come on randomly while I was driving. After many hours spent searching for an answer online, I found this thread:
[URL] ....
What I picked up from that thread that was useful was that if I tapped next to the dimmer/light switch panel my lights would go off.
Since all of the interior lights go through the instrument cluster I figured I would start there but it proved to be fruitless.
The next step I took was to look at the wiring diagram for the interior lights and try to figure it out there. They proved useful in that I was able to figure out that it wasn't an issue with a relay or fuse and led to me looking for the Green/Orange circuit, which I discovered I don't have but pointed me towards the Black/Blue circuit.
I thought I might have a wire loose inside the light switch so I started to remove it and take it apart to hopefully find something. To remove the light switch place a flathead screwdriver under the panel and pop it loose.
From there you can get a finger underneath and pull it out completely. Next you'll want to remove the wires by pressing on the clips pictured below
There are three screws you need to remove to get to the circuit boards underneath...
Removing the actual light switch was tricky because there are two tabs pictured below and you have to finagle the switch out...
Once you have that removed you'll be able to see two clips at the very bottom of the switch enclosure. This step was very hard and I had to get support. The two clips at the bottom have to be pushed and you have to pull the circuit board at the same time. I chose to have my assistant push from the bottom while I pushed the pins out of the way.
Once you have the circuit board out you can remove the dimmer by pushing on these four tabs
Once you have this removed you will see a circuit board with some gel on it. My circuit board had an excessive amount that was causing the electric current to jump and by-pass the Dome Defeat. After removing some of the gel I reassembled and put back in. I did it earlier today and only time will tell if I truly did fix it but based off the amount of gel and my inability to find another cause I am hopeful that this was a fix. The dimmer appeared to work better immediately afterwards.
When I'm driving the interior lights will come on all by themselves. This also happens when I park, day or night. Actually had to get a jump when I left the truck for 5 days at the airport.
Quick fix...mild tap to either the dimmer/light switch panel or just to the right of the panel. Goes out for a while and then back.
Extended Fixes:
- Cleaned contacts on old dimmer and light switch...no good
- Replaced dimmer/light switch panel...no good
- Cleaned and sprayed WD-40 on all latches...nope
- Looking for "loose" wiring...nope
This is a 2005 Lariat w/autolamps etc. Problem existed before I met a deer at 60 MPH and had a nice new set of fenders and front grill installed. I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, but cannot resolve the problem. The door ajar light stays off, so this leads me to believe it is not a door switch.
My father-in-law has a 2008 f-250 with the 5.4. as he was driving a while back all the gauges of the dash quit. The engine still kept running without any noticeable difference but when he shut the engine off and tried to restart, it wouldn't even crank but the security light was flashing. He tried starting it again a few hours later and it started just like normal and ran fine.
He has had this problem occur several times in the last few months, but the other day it repeated the problem again and would not restart for about 5 days. He has tried charging the batteries, changing relays, checking all fuses and finding none blown, scanned it with his code reader, and checked the steering column for bare or rubbed wires.
My 2004 ford explorer 4.0 has this issue where the check gauges will come on for 2-3 sec, then the temp gauge will go from normal and peg to hot and as soon as it pegs it drops right back down to normal. I have had the thermostat replaced and have flushed the radiator. I am at a loss here....
View 3 RepliesTruck has the EATC system. Blower motor works, blowing 78.5 degrees at the vent. Compressor will not kick on at all. I checked all fuses and they are good. Put gauges on the low and high side, both sides register a constant 70psi, held for 30 minutes with the a/c on max. What the problem is?
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