Changing the front diff fluid on truck. I was looking at mine today and it looks like the top bolts will be difficult to reach.
I also tried to suck the fluid out of the fill hole but couldn't really fit a tube into the differential.
This is my first Lexus and first new car in a long time. I have a 2015 3IS RWD and looking through the Services Guide I don't see any service interval for replacing the rear diff fluid or the trans fluid. All the manual says is under "inspect the following" check diff fluid level and check trans for leaks--and that the trans is a closed unit with no dip stick.
As far as my automotive knowledge goes, all transmissions are closed and yet many in the past have had dip sticks. Also, I've never heard of just topping off diff fluid if you're low. And both definitely have had service intervals! I change the diff fluid in my S2000 every 15K miles.
I find it hard to believe that the Diff and Trans fluid doesn't EVER need to be replaced.What are the service intervals for these two and the fluid weights?
I have a Honda PIlot 2011 which I took to my local Shell service shop . The code the car showed was B1236. One of the many things they did was to change the differential fluid. After I picked up the car from the shop, I noticed a slight sound from the rear wheels when I would make a right turn. I took it back to the shop and had them look at it. We did a few sharp right and left turns and we heard nothing. I drove the car away and a few days later noticed the sound to be more noticeable. At this time, I took it to my Honda Dealer. They noticed that the fluid in the rear differential did not seem to be right one and the sound was because of that . Can a wrong fluid damage the rear differential? They are also recommending that we change the rear differential which off course is extremely pricy.
View 7 RepliesHad the diff checked today.fluid was grey in color,looked like it might have a little water in it. 2010 limited slip. wasn't over full. 10000 miles.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2009 f150 platinum and have been told both sides of the story now... that the front differential is sealed and need not be changed, and also that it is unsealed and can be changed. While asking this question I might as well lump in the rear differential as well. Are they both sealed or unsealed and need to be changed???
View 3 RepliesI am changing the front and rear axle fluids on my '10 f150.The rear was no problem,the front is my issue.I took all the bolts off and loosened the cover to drain the fluid but it is a tight space and cannot take it off completely to clean it up and put on the gasket sealer.
View 2 RepliesMy truck just hit 110k on the clock, and i've never had the transmission fluid changed. Is this something that I am past due on changing or early? I don't know when it is supposed to be changed. If so is it something that you can do yourself?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2011 SCREW Eco-Boost with a build date in April 2011. I have a gravel driveway. When I first got the truck I noticed small dark spots in the gravel but attributed it to the A/C. I parked over some fresh snow the other night and found some fluid stain on the ground in the morning. It was kind of by the motor and then a little further back. It was the color of yellow/chartruse antifreeze but the truck has pink antifreeze in the overflow tank. What is going on?
View 7 RepliesI have a quick question. I am gonna change the fluid in my 01 f250 rear end. it has 410 gears and a limited slip diff. if i use full synthetic gear oil do i have to add the limited slip additive or just the 75w-140 full synthetic gear oil.
View 14 RepliesIs there a gasket to replace?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2011 F350 SRW with 3.55 differential. I'm was going to change the fluid, however, what type do I use? The manual calls for 75-90 with the Dana rear end or 75-140. How do I know which rear end I have? Is there a build sheet with code on the vehicle anywhere?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2011 CC 4x4 ECOBOOST F150. I have 45,000 miles on it and the front brakes started squealing.
View 10 RepliesI've only had the Ex for a few months so I'm still learning... After a trip to Orlando this weekend, I noticed a very faint odor of differential fluid from the driver's side front and rear wheels.
Nothing on the passenger's side. I've inspected the pinions and axles and found no wet areas at all, so I'm a little perplexed. The wheels and axle housings were pretty cool considering a 5 hour round trip.
I was also wondering if what I am smelling is due to the axle vent hoses?
Today I was out getting lunch in my Ecoboost When it started making an extremely loud grinding noise from the front end of the truck. My first thought was I blew a turbo. After holding the break and building boost I discovered it was not the source of the noise. Also the truck runs perfect and there is no smoke. I then took it to my friends auto shop and pulled both front tires off to check and see if anything break related came loose. We found nothing. The noise only happens upon acceleration or cruising throttle, as soon as you let off the sound goes away. So after I found nothing I took it to ford and what would cause that, but they assured me that they would have my truck for a long time while they figure out the issue.
View 14 RepliesThis evening, my F150 with 2,600 miles developed a high pitched squeal, much like you might experience on an older vehicle with failing front brakes. Yes, that same squeal/grind the brakes make...metal on metal. It came in instantly while at highway speeds. It was VERY loud. The pitch didn't really change with speed...it was pretty consistant going slow or fast. There was no vibration, chatter or growl as I would expect with a failing bearing.
It was definately in the driveline/brakes. I was 10 miles away from a friends house, so I turned around and took it back to his place. Shortly after turning around, it quieted, only sounding when I would turn ( like a wheel bearing would when being side loaded ). I looked at the brake disks, thinking something was grinding on one of them. The outsides of the disks looked fine. Due to the shields on the inside, I couldn't see.
Later in the evening, I had to drive it back home, about 50 miles. Again, it was quiet unless turning fairly hard. By the time I got home, the squeal had turned into an intermitant growl/thump, as if a warped rotor was banging on the caliper. The noise was 1 to 1 with the rotation of the driveline. But still no vibration. Brakes work perfectly and the noise doesn't change with brake use. Backing up and turning hard results in a variety of sounds, including squeaks.
The hubs and CV joints felt cool. The brake disks were not hot as if they were dragging.
It is 4x4 / 3.7l
I have a 2wd 2011 F150 90K with grinding noise coming from the drivers side front tire. Even though it was happening when coasting I thought it might be pads but they are real good. Turning the hub with no tire on it I can hear a little grinding. So I suspect bearings. I want to remove the hub but can't find out how to pull that off.
Where I would expect to find a spindle nut there is an area where it looks like you put a puller in. Can't find any videos or other information on the "Internets". Maybe I'm the first to have bad bearings? Anyway, how to remove the hub?
Just a quick question about the locking differential. I'm just wondering can you activate the locking diff while turning or on the gas pedal? Because today when I was climbing up an icy hill, I thought I'd turn on the locking diff,I was still on the gas when I pulled the switch. For a second I saw a warning on my dashboard, but quickly went away before I had a chance to read it. Just wondering in what conditions you can lock the diff. I also hear that you couldn't activate it while turning at a certain degree?
View 7 RepliesI have an 2011 Ecoboost SCAB and the front brake dust is ruining my chrome package wheels. The rears are fine. Ceramic or low dust pads??
View 14 RepliesNew issue this week - truck developed a leak from the pinion seal. I'm not sure how much has leaked out, so I would like to top it off before limping to the dealership.
From the manual: "Motorcraft SAE 75W-140 Rear Synthetic Axle Lubricant" There is also a footnote for friction modifier required for a Trans-Loc rear diff. Assuming that footnote refers to an LSD and NOT the E-Locker, should be able to top off with just the fluid, correct?
I am a die hard for Truck fan but am really disappointed with the overall quality of the truck. I bought it new and now with 30k, I've had it in twice to have rotors turned, once for transmission getting stuck in 5th and needed a new molded leadframe assembly, and now the pinion leak. All fixed under warranty, however really unacceptable for a truck with this low of miles and an easy life.
2009 Ford Explorer - 6cyl - 4L - auto trans - 35K miles. I'd like to change the automatic transmission fluid, but as some may already know, there is no dipstick on these vehicles. I have one of those hand pumps which will fit on the quart bottles and I'd be able to pump new fluid in (through where the drain torx bolt is). My question is: How do you know when the fluid level is correct when re-filling and then checking ? Also, I'm assuming that this has to be checked while the vehicle is running and in park ?
View 10 RepliesTrying to stay up on my maintenance on my '11 f-350 diesel. It just turned 59k. I can only find Ford's recommended service interval for changing the fluid in the transfer case listed in the "Special Operating Conditions" section of my Scheduled Maintenance Guide for towing, delivery, off-road and dusty conditions at 60,000 miles. I tow some, but maybe 20% of the time, I end up driving a lot of stop and go though.
So I found this nice how to online "Guzzle's Transfer Case Fluid Change" - it's for a 02 heavy duty, is it about the same on the newer diesel trucks?