Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Installing HIDs Headlight Fuse Blew - Now Battery Reads 11.9V?
Mar 24, 2016
In an attempt to install HIDs on my 2013 f150 screw 4x4 I hated them and I broke my truck. I blew a fuse for the left headlight which I replaced.
My battery now reads 11.9v, I have no dash or radio lights and my truck won't even attempt to start. I can't exit park either. My door locks inside the vehicle work but my remote is useless. My headlights and dome lights work but that's it light wise.
Is my battery just too low and needs to be "reset"? If not my battery does it sound like a main relay or the body control module or similar?
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Attempting to install the rheostat headlight leveling switch I somehow managed to blow out the entire dash lighting.
The two white wires next to the brown one touched each other and made the dash flicker on. Now it doesn't want to turn on at all. I replaced fuse 11 and 15 and that did not luck.
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There seems to be an access port of some sort in the top of each of my headlights. What this port is for?
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My DDM HIDs came in the mail today and fellow vortexer D.Passat00 was kind enough to meet up with me and do the needed vag-com adjustments. So firstly a shout out to him, he's a solid dude and really nice
Now: Is there a DIY for headlight removal? I can't seem to find one, and without removing the headlights I'm afraid there just isn't enough room to install the new HID bulbs without dinging/touching them.
I have a 2010 2.0t Passat and I got the 35w 6000k DDM HID kit
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I got in my 2009 Sonata this morning, started it and turned on the headlights. The headlights turned on momentarily and then turned off. The 20 amp headlight fuse blew. I cleaned the battery ground on the fender and the battery terminals. I also cleaned the connection between the battery terminal connector and the negative cable. I put everything back together and installed a new 20 amp fuse. I turned the lights on. They lit momentarily and then, predictably, blew the fuse again. Curiously enough, the "passing lights",which are just the high beams on another position on the headlight switch, still work.
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Within three days the alternator and fuse #23 blew. After replacing these and the fuel filter (because of stalling during acceleration), I took it for a diagnostic check at O'Reileys because the stalling while accelerating worsened, it wasn't shifting correctly and the O/D light began flashing on the shifter. It hit on these 13 error codes:
P7055
P0446
P0750
P0443
P0743
P0135
P0141
P0155
P0161
P2195
P2197
P0423
P1747
I have researched each code (definitions, what to examine/test, and the locaton of each part). My question is that with this many hits is it most likely a problem with the PCM, or should I just proceed with checking each connection, wiring and solenoid individually? The EGR Valve tested fine and the alternator is pushing 14.6 v...
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I have a 1990 f-150 that periodically (and rapidly) blows the fuse for the turn signals. The brake/tail lights continue to work, but just the turn signals quits. Looking for a schematic of those systems?
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My father has a 2009 F-150 with almost 25,000 miles. (he leaves it in garage and polishes it weekly) He just purchased a new dual axle trailer with electric brakes and led lights. When we hook up the trailer and press the Brake, turn signal or hazards, we blow a under hood fuse (48 if I remember correctly). When connected to either of his other 2 trailers, everything works and no issues. When I connect my 2014 suburban, the new trailer works perfectly. He does not have a brake controller installed on the F-150 yet. It does have the 7 pin and 4 pin plugs under the bumper.
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I tried installing my new DDMTuning 35W 6000K HID headlights with relay harness. No issues until I went to turn the car on and actually power them up. Neither side would work. I checked my power connection, ground, in-line fuse, swapped out the relay, tried without the harness, and nothing worked. I tried putting the stock bulbs back in and I found out they wouldn't turn on either.
I found the issue to be a blown 20 amp fuse in slot 23 (see pic). I replaced it and tried to turn the car on with the HIDs and it blew again. I hooked the stock lights back up and they seem to work fine now with another new fuse. The fuse description says H/LP LO and HID LO LH. Why this fuse is blowing. I am wondering if I just need a higher amperage fuse because of the HID power (in line for harness is 30 amp) or if something else is the culprit. I'm stumped.
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The owner's manual for my 2012 STX 4x4 is of no use. There is nothing in my truck that resembles the illustration.
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Unhooked battery on 2011 truck. I unhooked mine today then installed my magnaflow exhaust. then i hooked the battery back up. And now my battery light comes on when i turn the key ahead. my sync doesn't work, i push the button and it won't say listening. and when i turn the key off the stereo won't stay on, it says it's shutting the system down to save the battery. i am going to take it in on monday to see if they can fix it. i just hope it isn't my fault. Any certain way of disconnecting it.
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I have a Santa Fe 2001 and I towed a trailer today. It was fine at first but when we were trying to position the trailer at the destination the brake light fuse blew which meant the gear stick would not move. Figured out how to start the car again and used the shift lock release to move into drive to get the car off the road. I had to keep pushing that shift lock release button in to change the gears. I had the RACV guy come and change the blown fuse for me, and brake lights are fine now and the car starts, however the gear stick is still playing up. It went ok from park to drive, but then on the way back to park it got stuck at Neutral. Then had to use release again. Checked the fuse and brake lights, all is good there. What could be causing the gear stick to get stuck now? RACV guy couldn't understand why, he said replacing the fuse usually solves the problem.
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I bought a used 2011 ford f150 crew cab lariat. I love it!! 5.0 liter, towing package. I notice that when I turn on the headlights, there is no indication on the display that they are on ! When I put it on high beam, I see the blue light icon on the display.
2. Another question, it has the headed mirror option, but I can't find any control that turns this on. Is this automatically controlled??
3. One more. It doesn't have daylight running lights and when I leave the headlights on and exit the vehicle, the headlight stay on! There is an auto delay digital switch on the display but I think that only applies to how long the headlight stay on when exiting the vehicle and the light switch is on auto. I am confused about the light setting on the truck.
The truck only has 24k on it so is still under bumper to bumper warranty.
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I have read and re-read the owners manual fuse section. Can't find what fuse I blew. I do not have trailer brake or turn signal on either side. I do have running lights on the trailer. Which fuse or fuses control the brake and turn signal lights on a 2012 F-150 ecoboost. I had them all a month ago, but bought a new trailer and first time I pulled it the lights went out. Figured I blew a fuse, but can't find the one! No power at the receiver.
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I have a 2013 F150 SC 2wd with a 5.0 180k mileage. I have codes for all 4 banks coming up. P141 P135. I'm trying to find out which fuse works this circuit and the OM does not have it listed. What is the fuse position for thin?
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I have a 2013 f150 & the fuel pump relay fuse burnt out. I unhooked the battery cable "wasn't thinking" & took the fuse out & replaced it. Now my truck wont get over 3000 rpms & is driving like i got bad fuel or something. & now its throwing codes about my trac & I don't know why. Just from unhooking the battery cable & hooking it back up. What it is??
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The other day my left light went out. I ended up taking out the sockets and realizing that it was the green wire that goes into the socket. I fixed it and it worked for a while and now both my lights went out. Hi and low. Every time I turn my light on I hear a weird click noise coming from the fuse block. It sounds like a bad relay. What it is?
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There I was driving down the road, minding my own business. My phone was charged full so I reached to disconnect the car charger and the tip fell off the charger and shorted out my cigarette lighter socket. My owners manual does not show where the fuse is located in the fuse box? It does not mention the "lighter fuse" by name......
I called the Ford Dealership parts department where I purchased my Lariat and was told I he could not nor would not tell me which fuse is blown. Everything else seems to work. Haven't tried my sync lately, better do that. Where the fuse is? My fuse box is inside engine compartment by the radiator.
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got in the truck tonight and she is blowing nothing but cold out the drivers side but the passenger side works as advertised for temp settings. I have been trying to see if there is a self test mode like the earlier year trucks have to see if there is a code. She is dual zone climate/digital so its an EATC if I am not mistaken. I have tried power cycle, pulled and re-installed climate fuse after inspecting. Tried some of the earlier year self test button combinations to no avail. I did notice if I hit defrost a few times after hitting the power and defrost that the temps would go all 00 but I don't know if that is what I am looking for. I probably know my answer which includes tearing out the dash but how to proceed. Bought her with an aftermarket power train warranty so electronics are off the table for warranty. I know the stealership will charge out the rear to fix it too. All signs so far point to a blend door which is not good at all.
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I recently purchased my ISF from a Lexus dealer in my area. After the first rainfall i noticed there was water starting to build up in my passenger headlight.
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I bought a 2013 f150 last Saturday. It had battery corrosion on the positive side of the battery and on the battery cable end. The dealer agreed to replace the battery and the cable end which they did. Every thing was fine until today when the battery light came on. It stayed on for a few min and then went off. I had the battery and alternator checked at the local parts store. They checked out good. Why a light if everything checks out good?
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