1998 Ford f150 172984 miles automatic with 4x4 runs and drives transmission is going out will not hit 3rd gear have to drive in 2nd. Is there a fix without pulling the transmission?
View 5 RepliesRecently I had a stuttering and squealing from a belt. I was able to shift into all gears with no problems. Before I could get it looked at, the squealing stopped and I was unable to go faster than 30 mph. The belt and pulley were replaced, but the car now will not shift out of 2nd gear. Transmission fluid is good, and has not been leaking. Does this indicate that I will need a new transmission? Or is there possibly a less expensive possibility? I've heard that some vehicles have what's called "limp mode". Also, is it safe to drive at 30-35 mph., and what damage might I do by driving it?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 F150 5.4L with 157k miles on it. I think it has the 4r70w trans. The transmission has started holding 2nd gear too long before shifting into third. Throttle position doesn't matter, it does it even under light throttle. I do not have a check engine light. I have owned the truck since new and the trans fluid has been changed 3 or 4 times. The fluid looks pretty good now, not burnt or anything. The truck has been sitting in the garage a lot over the past 2 years, I drive it at least once a month and have put maybe 2000 miles on it this year. It shifts fine through the other gears, just 2-3 has an issue. Truck has the towing package.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1998 F150 with auto lock 4x4 and a automatic transmission. The problem I am having is after setting for about a week I drove it and 1st to second shift normally but when the RMP's/MPH hits time ti shift to third I get RMP increase and no third. I have shifted it manually 1 then 2 and into drive same result RMP's increase just like it is in neutral.
Miles on trans is about 120K have been serviced about 10K ago with no poor color or smell. Mechanic said transmission and filter looked good no metal or junk in oil. I drive down the road and it shifts from first into second then about 35-40 it hits what should be third but nothing free RPM's. I let it slow down to below 35-30 second kicks back in and away we go again until it's ready to shift into third.
I have been told possible speed sensor problem, possible other sensor problems looking for leads on where to look and what items to check. Just had Shop Mechanic drive it and he was baffled for everything looks good that he checked such as oil, and how it drove until it tries to shift into third. No over drive light flashing or anything and no engine codes showing at all everything clean in memory.
I have a 36 foot motor home on a 2000 Ford F53 chassis. (similar to single axle freight trucks and school busses) After getting one set of the rear wheels partially stuck, which resulted in some spinning of that side, the overdrive off light on the shift lever began to blink and the service engine soon light came on. The fault code said, "speed sensor showing more than one mile per hour". Now the automatic transmission sometimes will not shift into first gear after stopping and has to be manually downshifted, after which, it works fine.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2011 F-150 with the center console shift lever. I mainly drive the truck during the day so it's possible I never notice this but do the gear indicators illuminate when the lights are on? I happened to look down when I put the truck in gear and noticed that the selector has a red light showing its position but it was really hard to see what gear you have selected.
Normally I just pull it down until I hit D, knowing it clicks 3 times, and I'm off. If you do happen to go into M then you see it on the dash. So I don't know if I've never noticed it or if I have a burned out bulb and its no longer lit up. It's not a big deal but I always like to replace burnt out dash lights just so it looks good but I don't know the answer to this one.
My 94 F150 has been actingup lately with the 4r70 transmission not shifting into 3rd gear or above. I replaced the MLPS sensor and re pinned the plug as per the instructions with the switch.The old sensor had the plug on the side, same type of plug, but wires indifferent spots. Truck wouldn't start like that, so repinned to match the instructions. I couldn't get the neutral mark to 100% line up as there is not enough adjustment, but it is very close.
The old plug had
32-298-140-33
57-199-359-463
I switched it to
57-359-199-463
33-140-298-32
Then tried
463-359-199-57
33-140-298-32
Truck still won't shift to 3rd, overdrive off button doesn't light up and itwon't start in neutral. I tested the ground at the connector and it lights up atest light connected to the pos bat cable with no issues.
Back up lights won't work, but flicker as going from R to N, so I suspect that is due to the fact I couldn't get the marks to line up 100%, but i'm not worried about that now.
My manual transmission got stuck in 4th because of a melted oil trough sticking between the gears. I got all the plastic out, and the dog clutches/collars are "free." But, I don't know how to put the gears back into neutral. When it's reassembled, the stick doesn't work to change the gears. How can I get the gearbox back into neutral?
View 19 RepliesMy 82 f150 4x4 302 c6 trans is acting up. My c6 is slow to shift into any gear when I shift the column shifter, after a moment it jerks into gear, also it doesn't seem D is doing anything but all the other gears seems to function manually or auto.
Fluid level looks ok, maybe a little high on the dipstick. I'm going to check the modulator and do a fluid/filter change but looking for a link to the band adjustment screw ?
I have a 2007 F150 FX4 with 105K on it. When it goes from 2nd into 3rd, it acts like it's in neutral. There's nothing there. This is in "D" with "OD" on. If i turn OD off, it will wind up and grab 2nd again and will coast if I let off the gas. Also, if I manually shift into 2nd, it will engage 2nd and I'll have engine braking if I let off the gas.
The trans fluid was full and bright red as is should be with no burnt smell to it.
I dropped the pan and the magnet was a little fuzzy with some metal filings but there was no metal laying in the pan. I also dropped the valve body and there were no broken snap rings and the e-clip on the OD servo was intact. The valve body was also clear of anything that shouldn't be there. I'm hoping that I can replace the shift solenoid and that will solve my issues.
My 1998 1.5 auto revs and thumps when engaging gears when cold, have read in other forums about similar probs and some say a sensor problem?. Transmission has been replaced bout 10,000km ago by previous owner maybe didn't need to be but not sure. Seems ok later in day when hot, has had fluid changed with recent service
View 3 RepliesI have a 1998 GMC Jimmy and until now we had little to no heat. In the morning when we first leave the house in the cold as we are speeding up we slip into neutral and we either have to pull over or shift the shifter into neutral and back to get it going again. We only notice this happening when it is very cold. How do we fix this before it becomes a bigger problem?
View 3 RepliesWell I've been towing for almost 150,000 miles with a 2012 6.7 Lariat 4 wheel drive. Things have been going pretty well with the truck. I noticed some sluggish and indecisive type shifts early on but now I'm worried. I depend on this truck for pulling a horse trailer all over the country and Canada. Just recently I've been getting a hard shift or a thump or a clunk when shifting up or down in to second gear. I'm at about 152,000 miles and did a hot flush with LV ATF at about 148,000 miles. Should I worry or keep running?
I have a 97' PSD I'm thinking of giving a nice paint job and a flat bed but am reluctant to do so due to financial concerns and the fact that some folks may not want to see me pull up in an old truck no matter how nice it looks. My tranny temps have been stating under 200F and I really keep an eye on the temps when running up and down the hills while towing. The trailer is a 35' Gooseneck with a max GVRW or 14,000 pounds. Should I wait for the tranny to grenade and then drop in a built tranny and if so who's building these tranny's stronger than stock? Long time no see but this site has always been my go to for all my Ford truck questions, upgrades, etc.
I just got my 03 F-150 with 112k on the clock. It has the manual 5 speed tranny behind the 4.6L.
However, since I've gotten the truck, it's kind of difficult to put in first gear. If you are sitting at a light and in neutral and the light changes and you push the clutch to the floor and put it in 1st (fairly quickly - a normal reaction time), it will actually do a little grind and/or thump. However, if push the clutch to the floor and wait a couple of seconds and then shift into first, it's a bit of a "push" but it will go in without grinding.
Once in a while shifting to 3rd it feels the same way, but won't really grind.
I'm just wondering if that means the clutch is toast or is it the trans that is toast? Reason I ask is my 96 Cobra with the T-45 5 speed would grind going into 5th gear if I just normally put it in. I used to have to put it in neutral and then push the clutch in again and slowly shift to 5th for it not to grind. And it wouldn't go into 3rd if I tried to shift fast or under power. I replaced the clutch and found out the trans was actually going bad, but it had 173k on the clock.
So, I'm really paranoid that it's my darn trans in the truck instead of just the clutch. Whenever my old Camaro clutches used to be dying, they would slip more than they would ever grind going into a gear.
I think my E4OD in my 95 f150 is slipping in 4th gear. Just started the last couple of days, the engine rpms stay steady but the speedometer bounces around 3 to 5 mph. Thinking rebuild of the trans....
View 7 RepliesI posted earlier this month about my 1996 Ford F150 4x4 manual tranny truck. It had gotten stuck in fourth gear, and I, along with others, assumed it was the shift forks. I cracked open the top of the transmission yesterday, and what do I see? Melted plastic staring back at me. What's going on here? There was melted plastic jammed between fourth gear and the inner wall.
Is this a case of the surgeon leaving his instruments inside the patient? Could a mechanic have dropped his tuna sandwich wrapper in the transmission at some time?
79 F150 400/C6 2wd. Loss of reverse and it doesn't want to stay in high.
Strange thing happened today. I took my truck on it's longest test drive since rebuilding the transmission. It was about 25 miles. I got to the junk yard just fine and it was running just fine when I left. I went through a drive through to grab a burger and headed home. That's when it started acting funny. It shifted fine 1st to 2nd, then 2nd to 3rd, but it wouldn't stay in 3rd. It would shift into high, but the slightest bit of throttle and it would shift back into 2nd and eventually got so bad that it just stayed in 2nd, so I had to return to the town I was leaving.
I drove to an autoparts store nearby. I decided to move where I was parked and when I put it into reverse, nothing was there. It rolled back. I drove it to the new spot and called for a tow truck. Weird thing is that reverse worked just 10 minutes earlier when I left the junk yard. When I got it home 2 hours later, it backed up under it's own power. I let it cool down completely and took it for a test drive and it drove perfectly. I have a few theories or questions:
Kickdown rod: Can it be in such a position that it could take away reverse? I would assume that if the spring wasn't returning it all the way forward that it wouldn't have shifted from 1st to 2nd properly. I ask this because I am not using the Holley spring mount and I'm wondering if the wrong spring set up allows the kickdown to be partially activated.
Fluid: What fluid are you suppose to use after a rebuild and what fluid can't you use. Mercon V says it supercedes earlier fluids, but is that wrong?
Am I wrong to assume that if fluid was the problem that I would have had problems with 1st and 2nd?
Cooling: What are signs of hot fluid other than smelling it. Once again, assuming I would have problems with all gears if fluid was too hot.
My guess is that something is sticking in the valve body, but before I drop the pan and pull out the valve body, I want to make sure all other avenues are exhausted.
So couple of days ago, I went shopping. no issues. after shopping i fired it up, no issues, put it reverse, car was shaking, put the car in neutral. No issues, put the car in drive car is shaking again. i started to drive no shaking, however the car felt like it had no power, I only felt shaking during switching from R TO N TO D. So I change to manual mode and see the gear was 3rd. i was not able to change gears manually, neither did the tranny switched them for me. I drove home about a 3 miles. shut the car off, restart it...gears and car drives normal. Took to dealership, they checked it...and of course no issues. Ihave 44k miles and 50k warranty expires next week, nice, huh? got another year of powetrain warranty left.
View 3 Replies2200 Miles... It will not shift into 2nd gear in automatic and the rpms race up to 4000 when going about 20 mph. The only way to get it to work again is turning car off and on again. It has only happened twice.
View 7 RepliesI just noticed last night that my transmission was slipping in 3rd gear, it's an automatic. I added just about a quart of transmission fluid today....took a little drive and it still seems to be having the same problem? What might be causing this besides needing to get a new/rebuilt transmission?
View 6 RepliesSo I have a 2006 Hyundai accent with 75000KM on it. I notice when it shifts from 1st to 2nd gear sometimes it will jerk. It feels almost as if it goes to neutral and then sifts, causing the whole car to jerk. It use to only do it when the car was cold (first 15 min of the day) but now it seems to be doing it all the time and getting worse. I have had the transmission fluid replaced, but it doesn't seem to work.
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