Ford Transmission :: 2003 F150 - Difficult To Put In First Gear / Little Grind Or Thump?
Nov 19, 2010
I just got my 03 F-150 with 112k on the clock. It has the manual 5 speed tranny behind the 4.6L.
However, since I've gotten the truck, it's kind of difficult to put in first gear. If you are sitting at a light and in neutral and the light changes and you push the clutch to the floor and put it in 1st (fairly quickly - a normal reaction time), it will actually do a little grind and/or thump. However, if push the clutch to the floor and wait a couple of seconds and then shift into first, it's a bit of a "push" but it will go in without grinding.
Once in a while shifting to 3rd it feels the same way, but won't really grind.
I'm just wondering if that means the clutch is toast or is it the trans that is toast? Reason I ask is my 96 Cobra with the T-45 5 speed would grind going into 5th gear if I just normally put it in. I used to have to put it in neutral and then push the clutch in again and slowly shift to 5th for it not to grind. And it wouldn't go into 3rd if I tried to shift fast or under power. I replaced the clutch and found out the trans was actually going bad, but it had 173k on the clock.
So, I'm really paranoid that it's my darn trans in the truck instead of just the clutch. Whenever my old Camaro clutches used to be dying, they would slip more than they would ever grind going into a gear.
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I have a 2006 Mustang (manual 5 speed) that recently has been having a problem getting into 1st gear
Symptoms:1. When the engine is cold, there is no issue getting the car into gear2. Once it warms up (after approx. 20 miles or 30 minutes driving), it is very difficult to get into 1st gear. I have to put it in 2nd then get it to slip into 1st.3. On hot days the problem starts sooner and is hard to get into the other gears4. when the car has warmed up on a cool day. I can get the car into the other gears (2nd, etc) when standing still, but first is almost impossible
Originally the problem showed up when my wife drove the car, but it is getting worse. Why the engine and/or outside temperature would affect how my I can get my car into gear?
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I have a 1986 Ford Bronco straight six 300 4 speed manual NP 435
She grinded a bit when shifting from a stand still but nothing terrible for an old rig but leaked oil bad from the rear main seal so I took out the tranny/t case to put in new clutch, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and rear main seal. When I put it all back together shifting into 1st would grind like CRAZY. So would reverse but not near as bad. So I took it all back apart inspected everything even torqued the clutch to specification. Put it back together and same result. So I replaced the slave/master cylinder thinking the clutch wasn't pushing enough bench bled it and still no luck.
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Last night, on my way home, I suffered a catastrophic transmission failure in my 1991 2.3L 5 speed. Stepped on the clutch on an exit ramp from the freeway and was rewarded by a LOUD screech/grind, a stopped vehicle, and a transmission "locked" in 5th gear. The local HERO service pushed me out of traffic and I got towed home. Looks like a transmission transplant is in my immediate future. So - the question is, what year manual transmissions match up to a 1991 2.3L 4 cylinder, standard cab, 2WD? I need to start searching salvage yards.
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Our 2002 Elantra (automatic, 57000k) seems to have a blown transmission. A few days ago, it sounded like the car was "whining" and then it was having difficult time engaging next gear and eventually check engine came on and the car stalled. Firestone said it's a transmission problem.
We've had the car for less than 10 years so technically this should be covered under their powertrain warranty but I have a strong suspicion that the dealership will find a reason to not honor the warranty. It's still below 60k miles so we really didn't have to replace transmission oil.
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I have a 2000 F150 5.4L with 157k miles on it. I think it has the 4r70w trans. The transmission has started holding 2nd gear too long before shifting into third. Throttle position doesn't matter, it does it even under light throttle. I do not have a check engine light. I have owned the truck since new and the trans fluid has been changed 3 or 4 times. The fluid looks pretty good now, not burnt or anything. The truck has been sitting in the garage a lot over the past 2 years, I drive it at least once a month and have put maybe 2000 miles on it this year. It shifts fine through the other gears, just 2-3 has an issue. Truck has the towing package.
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I first noticed this recently as my wife was pulling out of the driveway into the street... The car wasn't cold, as it had been running for a bit over 5 minutes, warming up. My driveway slopes a bit towards the street and also has a dip/hump at the end of it. As she pulled out in R from P, I heard a thump. I also hear a noise which sounds like the brakes engaging. So in order, brakes engaging, shift from P to R, the thump then as it backs up and turns into the street, there's a slight, faint grind noise.
As the car stops to go from R to D, it thumps again. But as it goes into drive and pulls away..smooth as butter and quiet. I've heard and read that it's possible motor mounts. I'm wondering if the light grinding is the actuator...or perhaps dried out bushings in the control arms... Also read the possibility of the trans going bad, which I highly doubt, but who knows. My plan is to call Lexus in the morning and see if I can be squeezed in.
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Well here it is I just put a new slave cylinder in my 02' F-150 and once we figured out all the little issues we were having we finally got the truck to fire up!!! Now my problem is that when the truck is running I can't get the truck into gear with the clutch pushed and it doesn't even grind. But when the truck is off it goes through the gears no problem what so ever. When we did the slave cylinder while we were in there we just replaced everything clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, rear seal, and pilot bearing. We figured that since all the shops were quoting me 800 and up for just doing the slave that since were in there we might as well do everything since nothing has ever been replaced yet. My question is why will the truck not let me shift into gears when running but no problem when off. Oh and yes the system was bled after doing the slave actually twice so far.
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Recently my 2001 F150 4x4 5.4 truck has been misbehaving by being difficult to start at random times. The engine will turn over with however will not fire. After some time, I am able to get it to fire. When this happens the truck start normally for the rest of the day and maybe several days. Around the same time, error codes for a variety of sensors would occur. This problem was traced to a broken PCM connection. When this problem does materialize, no error codes are generated. After some time in repair shop, a probable cause could not be found.
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1998 Ford f150 172984 miles automatic with 4x4 runs and drives transmission is going out will not hit 3rd gear have to drive in 2nd. Is there a fix without pulling the transmission?
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My 94 F150 has been actingup lately with the 4r70 transmission not shifting into 3rd gear or above. I replaced the MLPS sensor and re pinned the plug as per the instructions with the switch.The old sensor had the plug on the side, same type of plug, but wires indifferent spots. Truck wouldn't start like that, so repinned to match the instructions. I couldn't get the neutral mark to 100% line up as there is not enough adjustment, but it is very close.
The old plug had
32-298-140-33
57-199-359-463
I switched it to
57-359-199-463
33-140-298-32
Then tried
463-359-199-57
33-140-298-32
Truck still won't shift to 3rd, overdrive off button doesn't light up and itwon't start in neutral. I tested the ground at the connector and it lights up atest light connected to the pos bat cable with no issues.
Back up lights won't work, but flicker as going from R to N, so I suspect that is due to the fact I couldn't get the marks to line up 100%, but i'm not worried about that now.
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O.K. first of all I had an issue with the Odometer pointer being jumpy. Sometimes it wouldn't move. Now I replaced the input sensor at first and did not fix the problem. I replaced the output sensor and fixed it. "BUT", Now, I have a problem with the transmission shifting. I get an engine light while driving and the 2nd gear seems to take its time shifting and when it does it make the left side drive shaft kick in hard and spends my wheel to a screeching effect. Plus a thump on the transmission. I rechecked the sensor for connection and reinstalled. Drove the car still have the same issue?
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My manual transmission got stuck in 4th because of a melted oil trough sticking between the gears. I got all the plastic out, and the dog clutches/collars are "free." But, I don't know how to put the gears back into neutral. When it's reassembled, the stick doesn't work to change the gears. How can I get the gearbox back into neutral?
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My 82 f150 4x4 302 c6 trans is acting up. My c6 is slow to shift into any gear when I shift the column shifter, after a moment it jerks into gear, also it doesn't seem D is doing anything but all the other gears seems to function manually or auto.
Fluid level looks ok, maybe a little high on the dipstick. I'm going to check the modulator and do a fluid/filter change but looking for a link to the band adjustment screw ?
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I have a 2007 F150 FX4 with 105K on it. When it goes from 2nd into 3rd, it acts like it's in neutral. There's nothing there. This is in "D" with "OD" on. If i turn OD off, it will wind up and grab 2nd again and will coast if I let off the gas. Also, if I manually shift into 2nd, it will engage 2nd and I'll have engine braking if I let off the gas.
The trans fluid was full and bright red as is should be with no burnt smell to it.
I dropped the pan and the magnet was a little fuzzy with some metal filings but there was no metal laying in the pan. I also dropped the valve body and there were no broken snap rings and the e-clip on the OD servo was intact. The valve body was also clear of anything that shouldn't be there. I'm hoping that I can replace the shift solenoid and that will solve my issues.
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I think my E4OD in my 95 f150 is slipping in 4th gear. Just started the last couple of days, the engine rpms stay steady but the speedometer bounces around 3 to 5 mph. Thinking rebuild of the trans....
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I posted earlier this month about my 1996 Ford F150 4x4 manual tranny truck. It had gotten stuck in fourth gear, and I, along with others, assumed it was the shift forks. I cracked open the top of the transmission yesterday, and what do I see? Melted plastic staring back at me. What's going on here? There was melted plastic jammed between fourth gear and the inner wall.
Is this a case of the surgeon leaving his instruments inside the patient? Could a mechanic have dropped his tuna sandwich wrapper in the transmission at some time?
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79 F150 400/C6 2wd. Loss of reverse and it doesn't want to stay in high.
Strange thing happened today. I took my truck on it's longest test drive since rebuilding the transmission. It was about 25 miles. I got to the junk yard just fine and it was running just fine when I left. I went through a drive through to grab a burger and headed home. That's when it started acting funny. It shifted fine 1st to 2nd, then 2nd to 3rd, but it wouldn't stay in 3rd. It would shift into high, but the slightest bit of throttle and it would shift back into 2nd and eventually got so bad that it just stayed in 2nd, so I had to return to the town I was leaving.
I drove to an autoparts store nearby. I decided to move where I was parked and when I put it into reverse, nothing was there. It rolled back. I drove it to the new spot and called for a tow truck. Weird thing is that reverse worked just 10 minutes earlier when I left the junk yard. When I got it home 2 hours later, it backed up under it's own power. I let it cool down completely and took it for a test drive and it drove perfectly. I have a few theories or questions:
Kickdown rod: Can it be in such a position that it could take away reverse? I would assume that if the spring wasn't returning it all the way forward that it wouldn't have shifted from 1st to 2nd properly. I ask this because I am not using the Holley spring mount and I'm wondering if the wrong spring set up allows the kickdown to be partially activated.
Fluid: What fluid are you suppose to use after a rebuild and what fluid can't you use. Mercon V says it supercedes earlier fluids, but is that wrong?
Am I wrong to assume that if fluid was the problem that I would have had problems with 1st and 2nd?
Cooling: What are signs of hot fluid other than smelling it. Once again, assuming I would have problems with all gears if fluid was too hot.
My guess is that something is sticking in the valve body, but before I drop the pan and pull out the valve body, I want to make sure all other avenues are exhausted.
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Was looking for some advice on what my problem may be. I just replaced the slave cylinder on my 02 f150 4.2 and two days after I changed it on my way home from work my truck jerked when I was about to turn into my driveway. Then when I stopped I put it in neutral snd it started rattling really bad it stopped when I pushed the clutch in And when i let out it started again. It sounds really bad and im hoping its something I can fix my self and not terminal.
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I am looking at a used 2003 X with a 140k miles. The truck is very clean and seems mechanically sound. This will be my third X! The only problem I found is the trans selector is difficult to move. Once driving the trans seems fine. No leaks anywhere. I believe this is cable actuated? Is this something minor or should I run away?
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I had a clutch, slave cylinder, and master cylinder replaced about 20,000 miles ago. Everything seemed to be working fine until I drove across the Rockies. The transmission was extremely difficult to shift, and the vehicle would actually roll forward when cranking the engine at fuel stops (temps were minus twenties). Once I got out of the mountains on both ends of the trip (where it was warmer), the clutch worked normally. The local Ford dealer found lots of air in the hydraulic clutch system, bled it, and it worked fine for several months.
The clutch is doing the same thing currently, but not all the time. Some days it's fine, other days it's difficult to shift although double clutching seems to work. It gets particularly hard to shift after a long drive (e.g., interstate driving for a couple of hours). I took it back in this morning to see if the dealer could figure out what is going on, they're saying it's likely a bad slave cylinder. I've heard the 1995 Explorer clutches are a bear to properly bleed, and can't work but think there may still be some air in the system.
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