Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Loud Screech / Grind - Transmission Locked In 5th Gear
Jun 11, 2015
Last night, on my way home, I suffered a catastrophic transmission failure in my 1991 2.3L 5 speed. Stepped on the clutch on an exit ramp from the freeway and was rewarded by a LOUD screech/grind, a stopped vehicle, and a transmission "locked" in 5th gear. The local HERO service pushed me out of traffic and I got towed home. Looks like a transmission transplant is in my immediate future. So - the question is, what year manual transmissions match up to a 1991 2.3L 4 cylinder, standard cab, 2WD? I need to start searching salvage yards.
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1991 Ranger, standard cab, 2wd, 2.3L engine, 5 speed
Transmission abruptly locked up in traffic, in 5th gear, brought the truck to a halt. Got it towed home, searched the forum for information on how to remove the transmission, and tackled the task today. I've done transmissions and clutches before - how hard can this be?
Well, I've gotten everything loose and am ready to brace the trans and remove the cross brace to gain access to the top bolts - I have seen them, but haven't tried to reach them. I've been hung for about the last 3 hours trying to get the two top side bolts - heads facing forward. I can feel them, have gotten a socket on them, but have NOT been able to get a wrench up to them to break them loose. Feels like there is a reinforcing flange or something right adjacent that prevents access. I've tried extensions, flex joints and box ends - I just can't seem to find the right combination.
2nd question - do I need to break the exhaust system loose before I allow the engine/transmission assembly to tilt downwards? Looks to me like it needs to be disconnected to allow the assembly to drop.
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Last night I backed up out of a parking space and when I put it in drive it wouldn't move. It seemed like the transmission was locked up. What happened? The truck was running fine. It's a 2002 Ford Ranger 3.0 with auto transmission. Getting it serviced? I'm tempted to go to a dealer. What the problem is? Repair costs? The fluid looks good - no burning smell.
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I have a 2001 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3L RWD AUTO.
I've never had this problem but now I can hear what appears to be a electrical noise or grind/whine. This just started happening on Monday. Prior to that I've never heard nor seen my speedometer bounce like this.
I've read that it's the rear diff ABS sensor possibly going bad. So I should have a new one tomorrow via amazon. I have also read that it's possibly the battery? I know the previous owner said he replaced the battery but this was at LEAST 2 years ago. So I know there is a solid 24 months on the battery now, since I've owned the truck...
I've also read that it might be the speedo? These actually go bad? Makes me wonder because of the noise you can hear towards the end like a whine noise. I have noticed that the battery gauge looks a little lower than before... normally it would be at around the MIDDLE of the battery icon and as you can see in the pic it's not now... however, the truck starts up perfectly fine, no hesitation at all or trouble, or having to do it multiple times.. so that makes me wonder is it really the battery?
I have projector HIDS and LEDS inside and have had them for at least a year now, I've noticed today pulling in the garage that the right hid was not flickering on and off persay but the beam wasn't steady like it was.. it was kinda dimming a little along with the interior cabin LEDS.... Battery? Alternator? I'm truely at a loss.
I've also heard there are sensors on the transmission that dictate the speed to the speedometer, problem is I don't know which ones to get.. I don't mind replacing all of them as long as this STOPS.
I did change my rotors and pads, and calipers. This was friday and this didn't happen. I will note that my ABS light is not on nor is it flickering so it makes me wonder as well if that sensor in the rear is bad? I didn't see any bare wires everything is taped and loomed, so I don't think anyone cut the wires back there that I could see at all...
Attached the picture of the battery gauge. And link to the video that I took with my phone...
Ford ranger gauge bounce - YouTube .....
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So went today and bought a 1993 ranger 4x4 ext cab 4.0! Runs good some bad handy work that i need to fix but truck has plenty of power and good handling...
issue 1- 4x4 not engaging. the light by the push buttons does not come on and you dont hear the "clicking" of the relay trying to engage. so whats the problem and how do i fix it?
issue 2- when clutch is fully depressed and you go to shift (this is only sometimes) you can feel and hear it grind just for a quick sec. and forget about down shifting you cant do that without slowing down. so maybe new clutch?
issue 3- at 65 the vehicle does shake a little otherwise but pretty smooth. any tips on how to smooth it out? maybe new ball joints? tighten some stuff up maybe?
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I have a 96 2.3L 5 speed Ranger. The clutch has been getting softer and softer until about two weeks ago when I couldn't drive it anymore because gears would grind like crazy when I shifted, especially 1st and 2nd. I had no time and just drove my other truck but now I've had a bit of time to look into it. I went to bleed the clutch and then realized there was no fluid in there. So I tried to put fluid in but nothing happened. The clutch is still extremely soft. The truck won't even start when I have it in gear, it turns over and kind of lurches forward, even with the clutch pushed all the way in. It starts right up in neutral. So my guess is I have to do what I really don't want to... replace the clutch!!
Is it possible that since I just put more fluid in the clutch it may take awhile for that fluid to get into the cylinder and I have to bleed it again?
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I have a 1987 ford ranger 4x4 2.9l v6 but my transmission slips out of gear and its auto im not sure why but ive been told im missing a over drive gear is this a possibility or what???
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I just had a 97 Ford Ranger with a 3 speed overdrive transmission in my garage that we replaced the transmission because it was not shifting down into first gear, not even manually!. The new transmission is doing the exact same thing as the original.
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My 93' Ranger XLT extra cab 2wd, 4.0 engine and A4LD auto tranny with 126,600 miles has a rough downshift into 2nd gear about 15 or 16 mph. Down shift to 1st is real smooth and upshifting thru the gears is smooth. I just put a new modulator valve on it and upshifts smooth out, they were getting to be hard shifts before changing that valve. I do not know if there is any adjustment that can be made to smooth out the rough downshift when slowing down to a stop for red light. The U-joins are in good shape and new carrier bearing assembly on driveshaft and no extra play in the rear end. A band adjustment maybe or just have to live with it.
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The reverse gear went out in my 97 ford ranger with automatic transmission. I took the transmission out and replaced the reverse band, cleaned everything up, put it all back together and back in and filled it up with fluid. Unfortunately, between me and my assistant, we did not secure the pump correctly and sheared the ears off it. It made a racket when we started it. It would go through all gears while jacked up but when on the ground it had no power. It would barely move. And there was no fluid coming through the pump when I cracked the lines. We pulled it all out again, took it to a shop, put on a new pump and had them reassemble it all and we put it back in, making sure to do it right this time. But I still don't have the power I had before all this. It's very sluggish in all gears. There was no racket on start up this time. And when I crack the lines there is intermittent fluid loss but not a constant flow. I really don't want to pull this thing again. What am I doing wrong?
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1996' Ranger with 183,000 miles. 2.3 cyl., Automatic, XLT
When I am driving and get to the 35 to 60 mph range, my trucks transmission wants to upshift, then immediately downshift to the gear it just left. It goes back and forth like this till I get where I am going, or after about 10 miles it will stop doing it. I checked the transmission fluid, and it is full and still pink.
I took it to Advanced Auto, and it blew a code of ECL Bank 1 I believe. I looked around the 'net and I think it came out to be the front O2 sensor may be bad/going bad.
Last week while it was warm enough I was driving with the rear window open, and noticed the faint smell of Rotten Eggs (this has been the only time though). Today I drove about 50 miles and basically used a quarter of a tank of gas. I am wondering if the catalytic convertor may also be going bad?
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2000 Ranger 4R44e transmission.Hard shift from 2-3 gear and when i run about 35-40 mph and brake then acelerate it downshifts hard . Whats wrong with it?
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Rebuild on the Mazda 5 speed transmission. My 1986 Ranger 2.3 Four cylinder has 280,000 miles and the clutch has never been replaced. It's not slipping but I'm having trouble getting it into gear from neutral. Was told that the release springs on the clutch plate have weakened causing the clutch to not release completely so figured it's time to replace it. It's done well the last 280,000 miles. The question I have : overhauling on one of these Mazda trans and how difficult was it. Any special tools required, etc...I see Autozone has a rebuild kit which appears to have bearings, seals and gaskets. Figured while it was out I would go ahead and rebuild it myself if I can. Rebuilt a few engines but never touched a trans.
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I have a 1986 Ford Bronco straight six 300 4 speed manual NP 435
She grinded a bit when shifting from a stand still but nothing terrible for an old rig but leaked oil bad from the rear main seal so I took out the tranny/t case to put in new clutch, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and rear main seal. When I put it all back together shifting into 1st would grind like CRAZY. So would reverse but not near as bad. So I took it all back apart inspected everything even torqued the clutch to specification. Put it back together and same result. So I replaced the slave/master cylinder thinking the clutch wasn't pushing enough bench bled it and still no luck.
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I just got my 03 F-150 with 112k on the clock. It has the manual 5 speed tranny behind the 4.6L.
However, since I've gotten the truck, it's kind of difficult to put in first gear. If you are sitting at a light and in neutral and the light changes and you push the clutch to the floor and put it in 1st (fairly quickly - a normal reaction time), it will actually do a little grind and/or thump. However, if push the clutch to the floor and wait a couple of seconds and then shift into first, it's a bit of a "push" but it will go in without grinding.
Once in a while shifting to 3rd it feels the same way, but won't really grind.
I'm just wondering if that means the clutch is toast or is it the trans that is toast? Reason I ask is my 96 Cobra with the T-45 5 speed would grind going into 5th gear if I just normally put it in. I used to have to put it in neutral and then push the clutch in again and slowly shift to 5th for it not to grind. And it wouldn't go into 3rd if I tried to shift fast or under power. I replaced the clutch and found out the trans was actually going bad, but it had 173k on the clock.
So, I'm really paranoid that it's my darn trans in the truck instead of just the clutch. Whenever my old Camaro clutches used to be dying, they would slip more than they would ever grind going into a gear.
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Hello. I never did this before but could you lock one hub in 2wd and leave the other unlocked. Also can you leave one hub locked while in 4wd? I was thinking if you have one hub locked would all the power would go to that wheel? Or will this do damage?
Thanks
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I have a 95 Ford Ranger 2.3L with a five speed. I recently had a starting issue were I parked the truck, went into a store came back out and the truck wouldn't start. Figured it was the solenoid as I couldn't jump across it to get the truck to start. Replaced the solenoid. Still no go. Found a fuse in the starting circuit blown. Replaced the fuse and got it started and drove home. Next morning, I go to leave for work and the truck would not start. Got a ride to work came home and checked it over and found the starter locked up. I replaced the starter. Truck started for a few days and now I am having problems again.
Here is the problem I am having now. Starter is good. Proved that as I can start the truck by jumping across the starter relay. Checked the solenoid with a voltmeter and it is doing what it is supposed to do when the truck starts normal. Here is where I am scratching my head. I can start the truck sometimes and it starts just fine. Next time I try to start it, the fuse will blow.
Replace the fuse and it might work for a couple of starts and then the fuse will blow again. I jumped pass the fuse with a piece of wire for diagnostic purposes. Out of 20 starts, it only started normally 4 or 5 times. I have checked every wire I can see under the dash and have not found any obvious issues. I am at a point where I am so frustrated that I just want to push this 400k mile truck into the back forty and put it out of its misery like a lame horse.
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My 04 ranger edge steering wheel is locked the tumbler is out but the little gear box on the tumbler is broke off and still in the assembly how do I get it out to install a new tumbler?
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I have a 1990 4x4 ford Ranger, the little truck was purchased in early 2008 as a work truck but has ended up becoming my main vehicle, it has been a good truck for the most part but know I am having some brake issues, well have been having for some time but they seem to come and go. Usually it happens when I have to hit the brakes hard, the rear brakes lock up, I replaced the master cylinder months ago and thought that fixed it, then a month later it happened again. The last time it happened was friday, the time before that was in march 09'.
I have searched this online and found numerous try this but the original poster never comes back to say if the problem is fixed or what fixed it. My ABS light DOES NOT come on when this happens, it does function properly, it illuminates when the key is turned on then goes off. My parking brake no longer works either but I think that is from me "driving thru" the locked up rear brakes. I plan on replacign both drums and shoes within the next week but would like an option to repair the locking up issue.
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I have a 1999 XLT and i had a bad moment yesterday. I always put the toolbox in the back side of the cabin, while doing maintenance i tried to open the rear door and I couldn't. I noticed its locked from the upper because the lower looks free. The other thing i noticed the two wires going to the handle to open it feels loose. First time happened to me and i really use that door often.
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I bought a 96 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab 4.0 on the 21st and the gear shifter doesn't go into 1st gear but changes to the other ones(see pic below) and was wondering if it's a easy fix.
Also I have a oil drip(at least it looks like oil to me) and I can't figure out where it's coming from because it's a small drip and the oil dipstick and tranny dipstick both show full and I can't figure out where the drip is coming from and I only noticed a dip on a metallic tank but don't know what that is either but check out the pic below to see the drip I circled.
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