Ford - F250 :: 2002 - Won't Start Unless The Foot Is On Brake Pedal
Feb 6, 2015
I have a 2002 F250 4 whl drive 7,3 L Diesel with auto tranny. It refuses to run unless the foot is on the brake pedal. I have replaced the brake stop switch and A L L the fuel filters. It will start at times and idle near perfect and at other times it will start and then stop. When it does idle there is not a skip but when you put it in drive it shuts down unless you keep your foot on the brake. I think I only have 2 hairs on me head I have not pulled out
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The other day I got in my truck and started down the driveway when I realized I had no brakes, I slowly backed up and parked it. I haven't driven the truck for approx. 2 weeks and it seemed fine then. The master cylinder is full, there are no signs of leakage from wheel cylinders or lines. Today I unscrewed the left front zert and no fluid came out. My pedal goes all the way to the floor.... Whats going on, and if its a easy fix?
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As the title says, I have an 02 Supercrew with the 5.4. The engine starts when cold and runs fine but sometimes when I start it hot after running for a bit, it will stall out unless I keep my foot on the gas pedal. This seems to only happen on hot days. It was about 90 F here yesterday and I drove it to a shopping mall after supper - maybe 5 miles. It sat for maybe 20 minutes and when I re-started it, it stalled out.
The tach needle just drops slowly to zero and the engine stops. It will re-start without any problem but will only keep running if I keep my foot on the gas and keep the revs up a bit. It has done this a few times in the past few years and only on hot days after it has been running and then sat for a few minutes.
What I should look at? It does not throw any codes and generally runs ok after a few minutes. For example, last night I managed to keep it going by shifting into neutral when required until I got back on the road. I drove 2 or 3 miles and at the next light, it acted like nothing happened.
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I have just replaced the front pads and discs on my car. a 2000 115 tdi sport. Now I have a problem - the brake light is not always going out when you take your foot off the pedal. And it feels like the brakes are binding, but when you jack it up the wheels are all running freely ...
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My friend has a prius and had her brake pedal sawed off modification. Funny cause she says that her foot is always slipping off the brakes now. It was always a bogus fix, to fix nothing caused by errant drivers.
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I just bought a 2013 Passat SE 2.5 about a month ago. Since driving it home I have noticed that the brake pedal sort of sticks when I let my foot up off it. It doesn't happen during hard braking, just normal to light, especially when I'm riding the brake in heavy traffic. When I lightly press the pedal in, it feels like something is sticking and again when I let off it has the same feeling and it will sometimes not come up with my foot, but it rather slaps/taps the bottom of my foot while returning to position.
I took the car back to the dealer to check out and of course the service tech didn't feel what I felt. So the let me drive a loaner Passat, same model, and I felt the SAME sensation in its brake pedal. At the time I just chalked it up to "that just must be how these are", but it's kind of annoying and I don't totally feel it's right. What is causing this?
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When I take my foot off the brake pedal quickly, like after a stoplight has turned green, the brake pedal makes a “clump!” sound. I have looked at the pedal mechanism and it is for sure coming from that area. It sounds as if a rubber bumper should be there, but is not. When I take my foot off more slowly, no sound comes from the area. Is this something I need to put on my 5K checkup list? My car has 1700 miles on it now.
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I drove my 2005 Prius 2 hours and parked it for 5 hours. No problems on the trip down. I got back in it and it started up just fine. I was sitting in the parking lot with my foot on the brake (hadn't moved yet) and the following occurred:
The brake pedal seemed to push back on my foot
The red exclamation point illuminated
The yellow exclamation point illuminated
The ABS light illuminated
The VSC light illuminated
The red parking brake light illuminated (not shown)
All of these lights point to the skid ECU. It seems like my skid ECU is toast or something called the ABS & BA & TRAC & VSC Actuator is an issue (never heard of it but I see it connected to the skid ECU). I did a visual check of what I could and everything seemed in order. I pulled a bunch of fuses and I didn't notice any that were blown. (I didn't pull them all but will tomorrow)
After not finding anything, I drove back home. As expected, I had no regen but the bigger problem was that I had no power assist on the brakes. A few times I actually did skid and the car brakes really bad without regen or power assist. If it was raining or snowing I could definitely see a hazardous situation.
I'm kind of at a loss here. Tomorrow I'll pull the kick panel down and see if the skid ECU is getting power but I can't think of anything else that would cause this situation.
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After driving in the rain and starting the car again after a few hours (as in starting the car again after work, or starting it first thing in the morning) the following happens: As soon as I release my foot from the brake pedal to go into "drive," there is a "thunk" sound from the rear of the car as well as a lurch. A soft "thunk" may have a soft 'thunk" sound, but a louder thunk will have a pronounced lurch/jerkiness from the rear. The car drives OK and has no problem with braking when I apply the brakes.
It happens only after driving in the rain. The dealer says the sound and movement are the normal result with disc brakes wearing off the rust on the rotors. Other wet weather concern (happened once): while driving in a couple inches of snow, the brakes began to grind and eventually failed to bring the car to a stop. Dealer rotated the rear rotors (due to uneven wear, although I had the car only two weeks at the time) and installed new rear brake pads. He said grinding brakes on an Elantra are normal in rainy, snowy, and dusty conditions. Is my car really safe to drive? Is there a problem? I'm considering trading it it as I don't feel safe. It is an otherwise OK car.
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Put foot on brake, selector in P it will start but will not shift.
Put foot on brake, turn key on, put selector in N it will start and shift R or D as normal EXCEPT do not shift to P as it will lock up and you have to start all over again.
Selector is basically aligned on the letters appropriately.
2001 F150 supercrew 5.4
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I have a 2002 Grand Caravan, when foot is on brake, speedometer jumps all over, engine bucks so bad I have to put it in neutral or park at every red light. When I go forward, it jumps a little, and sometimes will not shift, engine revs up so bad, I have to pull over, shut engine off, turn it on and then it shifts. Speed sensors were supposedly replaced with the plug for them. It is at a dealership, they checked all the sensors, electrical wires, etc, and not it doesn't shift at all!! It is still there, now I have no van to drive. They claim they did nothing to it, it was shifting 90% of the time. It will not shift at all, even when I shut it off and re-start it. Now they claim it may need a new used tranny.
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I just purchased a 2004 GX with only 45K miles and I love the truck. I have driven one with the TSB clunk and my current problem is different. When I stop at a light and go to start driving again I feel a thud when I take my foot off of the brake. There is no problem when I stop just when I go to start again. Is this a serious problem or normal?
I talked to Lexus before buying the truck and they said that the TSB fix had been repaired.
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My truck is experiencing a hard to press brake pedal. It comes and goes and does not seem to happen at any one time while driving. I know that my truck uses a vacuum pump and instantly replaced this as I figured that with the age of the truck it should be done. However even with a new vacuum pump it did nothing to correct my problem with a hard to press brake pedal. I inspected all the lines to ensure that they are holding pressure and replaced two of the three with new lines. Again it still did nothing to correct the issue. I do not have any leakage coming from the master cylinder and no hiding noise from the brake booster.
1996 F250 7.3l Diesel Turbo 270,000 miles Manual Transmission
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My buddy just bought a 1992 f250 460 the brake suck the pedal goes to the floor don't know if master or the booster or the rod needs to be adjusted or what the brake look ok and it stops ???
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I don't know whats up with my new truck, its a 04 f250 scsb, 4x4, 5.4l with 61k orig miles on it. Truck will stop on a dime, has NO pedal sinking, but it takes about 3/4 of the pedals travel to apply pressure to the pads and have the truck stop, sometimes if I push the pedal down then let up and push it again the pedal wont travel as far, I just flushed the system today, no air in the lines, is there a bleeder on the abs? truck has 4 wheel abs...
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When depressed the break peddle is firm, when released break peddle does not return, replaced mc and booster, bleed breaks. Still having same problem.
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2002 F-150 4x4 w/ 5.4 v-8. Brake pedal goes half way to floor before it starts to stop the vehicle. I have replaced and bled the master cylinder, bled out all of the calipers, and the calipers are installed correctly because the bleeder screws are at the top on all of them so no air can be trapped up there. The truck seems to stop fine, but just takes more pedal to get it to start stopping than I'm comfortable with. Could the ABS unit need bled out too? Or could it be an adjustment issue with the booster rod?
Also, something else I noticed, and it may be related..the ABS unit usually makes a slight clanking sound (like someone kicking a metal garbage can) a couple seconds after the key is turned on. I know its the ABS unit because a couple weeks ago I had a friends scanner hooked up to the truck, and I went into the ABS computer to clear the codes (have ABS light on from what I found to be a bad sensor wire on the front drivers side according to the scanner) and as soon as i cleared the codes on the ABS, it made that sound. I don't know if maybe there is something wrong with the ABS actuator, or if it's related to the brake pedal issue.
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I have a 2002 f250 7.3 with a dead pedal and gauges. This has happened to me once before checked fuse 45 and it was blown. I didn't know that the po used a 30 amp fuse when it should have had a 15 amp. I replaced it with a 30 not knowing. Well coming home the other night it happened again gauges dead and pedal. Checked fuses all were good. Found this site and read about the cause in the shifter. Took that apart and fixed the wire that was broken in half. My question is what else is fried now from having a 30 amp fuse in while it was shorting out since I have no gauges and gas pedal.
2002 f250 banks six gun
banks 4 inch exhaust
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I noticed last week that my brake pedal seemed more spongy than usual. The next day the pedal would go down about half way to the floor before I had pressure. And then the next day the pedal would go straight to the floor. Pedal comes back up once released. I still have brakes pressure about an inch before the pedal bottoms out. Its been like this a couple days now. The vaccum pump works fine. I'm gunna try bleeding the brakes on it tomorrow.
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I replaced all the brake pads on all 4 wheels. Pretty standard procedure. I now have a very spongy brake pedal. It stops but the pedal will be almost to the floor. I did not break any of the lines open during the procedure just used c-clamp to spread the calipers. No ABS light. Have a Snap-On power bleeder and bled the system several times with no change. Checked the power steering fluid level and inspected entire system for leaks.
2002 F-550 V10
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I'm having issue with my brake lights. Checked for voltage and nothing. Checked the fuses under the dash. Checked the brake pedal switch and have power going out when the pedal is pressed. Is there a relay or something somewhere else? 1999 f250 7.3 superduty....
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