Dodge - Grandcaravan :: 2002 - Speedometer Fluctuating When Foot Is On Brake
Feb 22, 2014
I have a 2002 Grand Caravan, when foot is on brake, speedometer jumps all over, engine bucks so bad I have to put it in neutral or park at every red light. When I go forward, it jumps a little, and sometimes will not shift, engine revs up so bad, I have to pull over, shut engine off, turn it on and then it shifts. Speed sensors were supposedly replaced with the plug for them. It is at a dealership, they checked all the sensors, electrical wires, etc, and not it doesn't shift at all!! It is still there, now I have no van to drive. They claim they did nothing to it, it was shifting 90% of the time. It will not shift at all, even when I shut it off and re-start it. Now they claim it may need a new used tranny.
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Upon cranking my 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan and driving app. 10 miles the speedometer and odometer will stop working and the motor will sound strained for the rest of the driving time. The rpm's go up and it dies from time to time when making a quick stop or turn. It starts right back up. The next day upon starting again the process starts all over. What's the problem?
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Speedometer Going Crazy. 2002 Excursion, 5.4, Auto Transmission, 246800 miles. Put key in ignition and immediately noticed no odometer display. Put it in drive, Odometer began to register but SPEEDOMETER fluctuated wildly. Reading the posts as best as I could, I replaced the VSS sensor on Rear Diff, and no change in symptoms. I don't want to replace sensors just to replace them.
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I have a '09 Dodge caravan. The ABS, ESP, TCS, and Brake lights are on. As we drive along the brakes apply, probably on only wheel. After we stop, we can drive on for a short way and it happens again. A mechanic told us that the steering sensor was telling the computer that the steering wheel was turned all the way to the left. I wonder if I pulled the fuse for the ABS pump and ABS valve if it would be safe to drive, at least until we can get it to the dealer for repair. I am cheap and like to get by as cheaply as I can/. I am not fond of ABS, or TCS any way?
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One tech wanted to replace both rotors and sanding down the pads to re-use (he said my brake pads can last up to one year). The guy in auto part said the surface of brake pads having hard spots could cause the pulsation, replace the pads. Of course, replace both rotors and pads is recommended but I have tight budget! What options do I have? can I just machine the rotors?
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I have an 02 DGC with 187K miles. 3.8L There has never been any work done on engine or trans. We do regular oil changes and I just had a complete scheduled maintenance overhaul done about a year ago, including the trans. And as a matter of full disclosure, my wife and I are prob not considered "easy" drivers.
A few weeks ago, when I put the van in D, it won't engage. No problem with R, just D. After a few minutes it engages and off I go. If I warm the car up first, this does not happen either. And it won't happen the rest of the day. The only other "funny" thing it is doing is, when I slow down, there is a definite movement or catch as it shifts down around 20-30mph. It feels as though the gears are having trouble downshifting.
I took it to a mechanic and he said the life span on this trans is about 180K and so I need a new one. Does that sound correct?
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1996 Grand Caravan with ABS, 3.3L V6, 152k.
Am I correct that Dot 4 brake fluid is equivalent to Dot 3 - with the added advantage of higher boiling point? Is there any downside to using Dot 4, other than a small additional cost? Seems like the cost difference is irrelevant compared to the safety margin to reduce the chance of boiling the brake fluid on a long downhill in hot weather, or - as in a recent puzzler - heating from the exhaust system. Or is Dot 3 really just fine for most cars?
Either way, I'm going to flush the system with new fluid (and replace old parts as needed), it's definitely due. Neither my owners manual, nor the factory service manual, gives a capacity for the entire system. Ditto the Napa store. I'm guessing it's in the range of two quarts. I don't want to buy a full gallon only to let it sit in the garage, but if I need three quarts, I may as well buy the gallon. Where to find the capacity, or have a ballpark approximation for what the system will need?
Also, is there any benefit to flushing the system BEFORE replacing wheel cylinders to keep old fluid out of new parts? That makes sense to me, even if it uses extra fluid. So:
1: Dot 3 vs Dot 4
2: capacity
3: which comes first: flush or new parts
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My 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan transmission suddenly does not changing in gear This happened when I was driving. The engine light came one and transmission seems to stuck in a gear. Acceleration is fine but the van slows down quickly if I let go the gas pedal. Seems like it stuck in a gear. How to I troubleshoot and is there anything I can do at home?
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I have a 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan and I am having an issue with it running a touch rich and not getting the gas mileage it should. Here we go, in March the van started to start hard and blow black smoke out of the exhaust. After a 120 mile drive back home, one morning it would not start. I pulled to a mechanic who went out and started it without a problem, he said it was flooded out and probably needed to change plugs and wires. I took it home and changed the wires and plugs. Much to my surprise, no change. The van started hard and then ran really rough with no power for a while and was polluting the air with black smoke. The average mileage was around 12 mpg. I went to the next step and changed the coil pack. No change. Finally took it in and the mechanic changed the O2 sensor and the cat converter. The can runs better but still gets around 16 mpg and still blows a small amount of black smoke. Oh yeah, the air filter is clear and there are no trouble codes either. I am thinking it could be a something with the fuel delivery system maybe?
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2001 PSD ... Had speedometer jump 20 km's (12mph) while stopped with foot on the brake? This has been happening on my 2001 PSD intermittently for the last couple months.
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I have an odd issue. I bought my car used from the dealer. The fuel pump was replaced last December, as well as had an oil change. The fuel pump died right after the oil change but are seemingly unrelated since the pump was bad when i bought it. After the pump was replaced my van stated acting up over the next couple days. The fuel gauge would dance randomly. That has since settled down. Now when i make left turns, the rpms drop and i have to pump the had to get it going again or else it completely stalls out in the middle of an intersection. .. it had been steadily getting more frequent and only on left turns. Right turns runs fine.
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My 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan has a sound metallic rattling at about transaxle area (I am not sure if it's a transaxle issue) when it's cold but when it's at operating temperature, I don't hear it anymore. Fluid level is correct and clean, I just have the fluid changed. Shifting is fine, just annoying sound, not loud but it can be heard easily.
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I just completed a front brake job on a 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan, installing new rotors and pads. Right front rotor and pad installation went perfectly. Left front - I heard a faint "hiss" as I compressed the caliper piston using a c clamp. In addition, as I placed the new inner pad against the caliper/piston, I noticed that the piston had become slightly "uncompressed," meaning it moved back out a little bit on its own. I compressed it again with a c clamp and had to rush to get the caliper back in place with the new pads in place before the piston SLOWLY worked itself back out and I wouldn't be able to fit the caliper around the new rotors and pads. I completed the brake job, pumped the brakes, and took it for a ride - all seems fine. The pedal is not spongy and it does not travel all the way to the floor.
Do I have anything to worry about? This is my 6th brake job in total. This is my first brake job on this vehicle. The slight hiss and the fact that the caliper piston did not stay seated after I compressed it bothers me.
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2002 dodge grand caravan. We feel the heat from engine block inside the two front seats (driver and front passenger). We also feel heated wind (blowing strong) and smell coolant when standing outside the vehicle by the driver and front passenger door with the engine idling.
There's visual small leak, once the vehicle is parked. I wonder where the leak is (not on radiator and the radiator coolant level remains full). I bought Preston Radiator Complete Care and Stop Leaks. I haven't put it in yet, just wonder if this will work.
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Short Version. 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan, I two weeks ago I replaced the front brakes (rotors, calipers, and pads both sides) I drove the van 100 miles Saturday night with no problems. Sunday afternoon, whilst driving home from a restaurant with 5 people in the van (driving super gingerly because they were my inlaws) the right front brake stuck on and smoked on the drive home. The calipers are new, and I have not had any other problems since I replaced the brakes that were trashed when I got it.
Long version, So heres the deal, I am the proud owner of a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan, its got about 140,000 miles on it, its a little rusty, but I got it for free. A family member was getting rid of it, as it was 11 years old, and they wanted something newer, and it needed brakes and a few other things. They were going to donate it, but it sat all winter waiting for the donation company to pick it up. Being a consummate grease monkey elite shade tree mechanic tinkerer type, and being in the new family, new house cash flow situation, I swooped in and towed it home in hopes that I could make a decent enough ride that I could fit two adults, a car seat and a dog into.
Now when I got the van I knew it had some problems. That's the reason it was free. But it is/was all fixable stuff. Typical of age and mileage It had a whiny power steering pump, it needed an oil change, the power steering lines leaked, the transmission cooler lines needed to be replaced. It needed a serpentine belt. It has a motor mount that needs replacing. The front suspension clunked because of worn out swaybar bushings and end link Its a bunch of work and few weekends and a few hundred in parts, but when the van was free, and you do the work yourself it costs a lot less.
The front brakes were completely trashed when I got the van, that is one of the reasons that the previous owner had parked it. And it was obvious that the right front caliper had seized, I could not push the piston back in. And that was the one that seized on, and had the most damages so I replaced it, along with the left front, as it was also the original one, and well they were both the same age, and have the stuff to bleed the brakes out. So what causes disk brake calipers to randomly stick on when they are used gently? Because when I drive it angry, such as now, they seem fine.
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My 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan's most recent problem has baffled 2 garages so far. It is now in a 3rd one that specializes in auto electric issues. When I turn on the left signal it flashes a few times then the RIGHT side starts to flash. When I turn the right signal on you got it the LEFT side flashes! I installed a new multi function switch and NO CHANGE!
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I have a 2002 F250 4 whl drive 7,3 L Diesel with auto tranny. It refuses to run unless the foot is on the brake pedal. I have replaced the brake stop switch and A L L the fuel filters. It will start at times and idle near perfect and at other times it will start and then stop. When it does idle there is not a skip but when you put it in drive it shuts down unless you keep your foot on the brake. I think I only have 2 hairs on me head I have not pulled out
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I was driving home tonight and stopped to get dog food. Resuming my drive home I had gone about 3 miles and my ABS light came on, the tachometer began fluctuation and the speed odometer went to zero. And the engine was losing power. Pulled over turned the lights off and turned the car off. Waited about 30 seconds and turned the car back on and everything was fine and car ran absolutely normal with no warning lights. I was about 26 degrees out.
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I have a 1999 Ford Explorer Sport. In the past month, I have experienced on a number of occasions a sudden fluctuation in the speedometer. At the same time, the ABS light will come on and the engine becomes loaded. This will last for a second and then return to normal. The interval between occurrences is not fixed or repeatable but often occurs when traveling at a higher speed (65-70 mph) on the interstate. The first garage said it might be the idle valve so we had it replaced but the problem appeared again a few days later. We just recently took it to a Ford dealership that said it might be the rear wheel ABS sensor so we had this replaced. Once again the problem reappeared a few days later.
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I own Sta Fe 2014 DM CRDi 2.2L diesel engine automatic transmission. Recently I am encountering a problem on my unit, firstly the ABS, ESC, and Hill descent alarm indicator shows on my dash brought it to Hyundai and they replace wheel hub assembly on the rear right wheel. after a week it goes lit again but doesn't stays long it disappear right now it happens from time to time only. Secondly my cruise control wont engage the light stays on but could not keep the speed, Ive check the brake lights they are not busted. The service technician doesn't now what to do and no error code showing on the computer. Last is during start up transmission on neutral or park position the speedometer fluctuates then warning light on ABS, ESC appears.
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My 2007 Chevy Impala has developed a brand new problem today. Driving down the block to the store, the speedometer started fluctuating wildly. I was going a consistent speed of about 10 mph in my parking lot and when I braked to a stop the speedometer started swinging all over the place, from 10 to 35 mph. It then gave me a message on the dash saying "Speed Limited to 107 MPH" and somehow killed my accelerator because the gas pedal no longer did anything. I restarted the car and the accelerator worked again for a bit and then pulled the same problem again. The speedometer is now fluctuating wildly the entire time I drive, including while stopped, but so far the message seems to have kicked on and disabled my accelerator only when slowing to a stop and accelerating out of a stop (it happened three times).
I know that the Impala's governor is set to 107 mph so I can guess why that message exists, but I wouldn't think a governor would actually kill the car even if it kicked in at the right speed.
It wasn't that long ago that we had to have our pedal position sensor resynchronized and the mechanic had mentioned that it was possible the sensor was going bad, but I don't think that would be the problem here as it seems like the car would actually have been accelerating sporadically, whereas in my case just the speedometer is swinging around despite an even speed.
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