I drive a 2001 Ford Focus ZTS with ~133000. I just recently filled up my coolant reservoir with 50/50 coolant. 2 days later I needed to fill it again. I went through an entire jug of coolant in 4 days. It seems to be leaking from the top of the engine and the engine runs slightly rough and has a hard time starting some days (more often recently). How bad is it doc?
View 5 RepliesI just purchased a 2006 Santa Fe Limited with the 3.5l for a great deal. It has a huge coolant leak though that needs fixed. It is coming from the top of the motor on the left side by the timing belt. It is really a small flood, when you fill the coolant and turn on the motor it runs across the top of the motor toward the drivers side. There isn't oil in the coolant and it doesn't smoke. I had it dropped off at my mechanic though. Does the motor really need pulled in these to do the head? I heard that there is a overflow channel from the water pump that comes out right about there as well. Could that maybe be it? Any other options if it is the head gasket to reduce the cost any?
View 17 Replies2001 Sport trac, we are throwing a large leak evap code. The check fuel cap light came on and went out after replacing the cap, but we are still getting the code. Is there a known problem area to look at or is it a job for the smoke machine?
View 2 RepliesCheck light came on and I had the code read at AutoZone. There were 3 codes but I'm pretty sure 2 are old (the check light previously came on a couple of months ago and I had it checked, then went off on its own). My car seems to be driving fine.
The new one is P0455. Large EVAP leak. I'm hoping it is just my gas cap.
The other 2 (older) codes are P0456 (small leak) and P0113 (IAT error).
I have a 2001 expedition 5.4 ltr that has developed a coolant leak. Leak appears to be on top of the engine, in front on passenger side. The area around the front fuel injector (on passenger side) is wet and water is running down and sitting on top of engine (under intake manifold). My first thought was that the heater hose extending vertically from the block hose fitting. I have found no evidence of a leak in the hose but it appears fitting on block may be the source. It has three bolts holding it onto the block. One from the top and two coming up from the bottom. Two of the three area accessible. How to get to the upside down bolt nestled between hose fitting, block and valve cover. It's been a slow leak so far but I know that's not going to last. Runs fine but steams from water on block at stops and when parked.
View 2 RepliesRecently the temp sensor on my car goes all the way to H and then the light comes on saying I need coolant. It only seems to happen when I have the heat and/or defrost on -- if I turn the heat off the temp goes back to normal within a minute or so. (no problem using rear defrost)
First time it happened I pulled over, checked coolant level and added a little. The next time it happened I looked under the hood the next morning and coolant level was just fine.
Happens more often when I'm driving around town than on highway. Usually within about 5 minutes of driving in the morning the engine temp is all the way to H.
I have an '01 Grand AM GT, 6 cyl 3400 engine.
It over heated about a week ago, coolant was low so I added more. Around that time I noticed white smoke/exhaust coming out as well. There was no odor to it so at first I thought nothing of it.
After a few days, the coolant reservoir was low again. On my way home one night I noticed an engine knock that sped up and slowed down with the RPM's but didnt get louder or quieter. Fortunately, the next day the Passlock system kicked in and I havent been able to start my car in a week.
I finally figured out the passlock issue (BCM was getting water in it from somewhere, cleaned off the connector pins and it started right up! found that fix somewhere on AF)
I changed the oil and the engine knock is still there. Now its a little more prominent and the engine was shaking tonight. Took out the spark plugs and they look and smell like they have oil on them. From what I've read so far it seems like it could be a valve cover gasket and/or the head gasket.
Ok I just bought a used 2003 Ford Focus from a dealership which I am financing and after the second day driving the check engine light came on. Once I saw that I took it back to the dealer and he told me the sensor was very sensitive and because I didn't close the gas tank tightly the light came on. I didn't feel satisfied with this answer so I took the car for a diagnostic. They informed me that the car had a gasket leak. I then took the car back to the dealership and told them what I had been informed and the mechanic told me that it wasn't a big deal, nothing for me to worry about. Now I don't know much about cars and I have been doing a little research of my own and a gasket leak seems to be a big problem.
View 8 RepliesMy troubles began several months ago when while on the Pike the coolant sensor came on with a heart attack-inducing alarm beep on my 2001 Turbo VW Jetta. The billowing steam pretty much gave away the major coolant leak that had decided to erupt in the engine. Brought it to my local mechanic who promptly fixed the problem. About 2 weeks later, the light came on again, so I brought it back to him. He found some additional minor cracks in the engine tubing. Fixed it again. 2 weeks later....yep, you guessed it, the light comes back on. After 3 more visits with pressure testing and dye added, no leak can be found. We then tried the leak repair stuff....that was about 2 weeks ago now....and, yes, the light has come back on again.
The car is in very good shape with just over 100K miles on it and just had a lot of the biggies done on it in the last year (shocks, belts, brakes). I would love to get another year out of it since I just put all this money into it, but I'm getting tired of having to bring it to the shop every couple of weeks. I also don't want to get stranded if something decides to give way in some spectacular fashion.
So, my questions here:
1. Do I try the repair leak stuff again to see if that will work?
2. Is there any other possible causes that wouldn't require an engine rebuild that we should look at?
3. Do I just suck it up and carry around spare coolant with me topping it up as it gets eaten?
4. Do I call it a day and start looking for a new car?
I recently bought a 2001 Ford Focus (about 4 months ago) and it recently began having a rough idle, check engine light, and stalling. One night, I started and it immediately stalled. When I tried to drive it, it made a grinding noise. Eventually, I made it home and got it to a shop the next day. I was told that it was likely the pistons by a mechanic. He later confirmed it was the pistons, had them replaced, sent my engine off to a machine shop for "smoothing". 2 days later, I had it back and it seemed to be running great. Took it to work and went up a small grade hill (not even labeled) and it began chugging, making a grinding noise and the check engine light began flashing.
I took it back to the shop where the mechanic couldn't even keep it running and he determined that it was a broken hose. He replaced it, free of charge and the car ran great for a couple days. Next thing you know, it begins the rough idle and random stalling but no check engine light. I took it back in and he asked to keep it for a few days. He said that he determined the machine shop didn't do things correctly and sent it back in. I got it back this morning and it seemed to be running fine for my husband, but once I got in it, there was a loud rumble and a slightly rough idle. Then, there was the smell of burnt rubber. My mechanic wants it back, but isn't open again until Monday and I work the next two days. By the time I got it home from work, it had a very rough idle, issues accelerating and I'm still having issues going up hills.
Clearly, my mechanic is really focused on the issue being related solely to my pistons and is only focusing on that. I think something else is wrong and is being missed, but I have no clue what.
Got 2006 Explorer back fron trans rebuild and probably unrelated but started getting P1405 (Large vacuum leak) and alternating "replace gas cap" errors. When I installed a new gas cap, error went from large vacuum leak -which I checked for on engine and found none using smoke test- to loose gas cap. So next, I changed the emission system valve which is right up front on rt. side of engine looking into engine bay. Now, error has returned to large vacuum leak. So new gas cap and valve. Error does not come back immediately after clearing. Takes about a week and then either get SES light and large vacuum leak error or just picture of gas cap on dash error. Note that when I remove gas cap, I no longer hear the "whooosh" of releasing a vacuum. Assume now it is in back by spare tire where I need to be looking. I note on emission valve that there is a schrader valve for testing vacuum....
View 6 RepliesI've got a 2001 Explorer 4.0L with around 160,000 miles on it. Just noticed this morning it has developed a coolant leak. It's dripping off the rear of the oil pan and appears to be coming from the passenger side somewhere above the oil filter. Without tearing a bunch of stuff apart, I can't really see for sure where its coming from. Are there any common issues with this? I'm hoping its not a head gasket...
View 7 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford Focus ZX3 (2D Hatchback) that has been randomly stalling since we bought it. There is no engine light, the dealership couldn't get it to stall and just gave it back. Another garage got it to stall and thought it might be the "idle-oxygen sensor" (not sure if I'm remembering the name correctly), but that didn't stop it from stalling either.
My wife is ready to dump it, but even spending a couple thousand a year on repairs is less than the grand total of a year's payments on a new car, insurance, etc. But it would be nice to fix it.
I have an 01 supercab. 5.4 Triton 135k. I have begun to smell coolant the last couple of days. Have seen nothing leaking and truck doesn't run hot.
Will investigate more this weekend. Where to start looking for this. It has to be leaking somewhere. Windows don't fog and the smell is there all the time. I live in florida so don't use much heat.
Not the heater core. Heat works fine and no smell from the vents.
Here are the codes I'm getting:
P0455 - large evap leak
P1451 - main control (evap canister)
P0306 - cylinder 6 misfire
P0174 - bank 2 lean
are these all related? Or two separate issues. I have replaced all the evap lines with new lines. I have a new egr valve, and exhaust manifolds, and what should I look at 1st
Almost every time I start my 2001 Ford Focus, it won't start. The starter functions but the engine won't start. I have to pump it, give it gas, and once it starts, it's perfectly fine, no stalling, no problems after that. That is until I turn the engine off. When I go to start it again, say after doing an errand or two, it may or may not happen again throughout the day, the problem only occurring when I attempt to start it.
View 1 RepliesI own a 98 f-150 5.4 with 70,000 miles. I get a check engine light (code p0455-large leak detected in evaporative emission control system).
Replaced the gas cap with an after market 'stant' ( I believe was the manufacturer) brand. The check engine light went away for 4 days then came on again.
No obvious vacuum line leaks.... Puzzled.
I've had a large leak from somewhere in my power steering/brake boost system (the whole reservoir gone in under a week) and I want to finally get to the bottom of it. Instead of paying a mechanic labor, I figured I'll look at it myself. So I got under it and I think that the leak is coming from the power steering gearbox, or a line that goes to it, but how to figure out which. How to diagnose this HydroBoost leak on my 6.4L? Here are some pictures ....
View 2 RepliesI have some codes on my ranger 2000 here goes
P0141: o2 sensor heater circuit malfonction (bank 2 sensor 2 )
P0455: evaporative emission control system detected (large leak)
Now I will need to get that fixed cause I don't know where to look and what to look for ... For the leak I know there is a big crack on the plastic where the gas lid is could that be it ?
My truck is leaking behind the engine. There is not any coolant on top of the engine. It's leaking above the transmission and running down the passage sides. Are there any hoses that could be leaking behind. Sometimes it leaks a lot other times it doesn't leak at all. The shop thinks it's a freeze plug but wouldn't it be leaking more if it was?
View 6 RepliesI replaced the water pump on my 3.0 and now, 9 months later, there is a coolant leak from the front engine cover (timing chain cover). The leak has probably been there two months or so, but it was so small initially, it was difficult to locate. A google search seems to indicate that a leak from the timing cover is somewhat common on the 3.0.
When I was doing the job, I noticed that some of the water pump bolts also hold the front cover in place, which seems like a bad design because removing those bolts takes some of the compression off of the timing cover gasket. Now that I have this leak, I'm wondering if changing the water pump is related to the leak. And, yes, I did use thread sealant on the bolts as recommended in the genuine Ford shop manual.
So now, I'm curious. Noticed a leak from the timing cover relatively soon after replacing the water pump on 3.0?