I have a 1997 ford ranger 4x4 5 speed manual. We are rebuilding the transmission ourselves, and taking on the task has been pretty hard. We are stuck at the input shaft. How to take the input shaft out? Do you need a special tool?
View 1 RepliesI'm replacing my clutch components in my 89 Ranger with an M5OD transmission. While I'm doing it I'm going to replace the input shaft seal on the transmission. I'm looking for the torque specs for the housing that holds the seal.
Also, should there be any play on the input shaft? My transmission has never made any noise but I noticed some slight play in the shaft.
I had a rebuild done on my 2002 Accent. My question is now we get a code for the output shaft speed sensor. Would this have been replaced as part of the transmission rebuild?
View 2 RepliesI'm trying to get to the manual transmission input shaft seal on my 01 GTI w/12V VR6. I've removed the 3 bolts surrounding the input shaft but the metal shroud underneath the 3 bolts seems to be adhered tightly in place. You can see the 3 bolt holes and metal shroud in this photo: [URL]
Am I on the right track in trying to remove that shroud? If so, how do I loosen it?
I have noticed a few drips coming from the rear axle input shaft where the drive shaft connects. It has only done it once and there is no residue on the trailer hitch so I know it didn't dump everything on the road. If change this seal, how difficult is it and do you have any information which might make it easier.
View 14 RepliesBought a used 1997 Lariat Supercab 5.4L last week. It was missing its front drive shaft so I want to install one.
I just ordered a used front drive shaft online but I now need the bolts that connect everything together. New drive shaft has all the flanges, etc.
What is the pitch/length of these bolts? The part number for the bolts is N800594-S100 (AB-308-D). I believe there would be 8 of them, 4 on each side.
I thought it might be easier and cheaper to just buy bolts from an aftermarket supplier instead of OEM from Ford.
I have a 2001 Santa Fe GLS 4WD, I've had my Auto Transmission Speed Sensor replaced and will have the output speed sensor replaced to have speedometer/odometer and cruise control fixed. While having the first sensor replaced my mechanic noticed the Input Shaft Speed Sensor Connector (the plug on the wiring harness) was cracked. I've been looking everywhere for this connector. I don't want to buy the complete wiring harness because I've heard it is very expensive. I want just the connector. What is the part number of just the connector?
View 2 RepliesI was wondering should I find metal in my pan after a rebuild on my AOD? It's been about 4 months since the rebuild and i took it in to have the fluid changed at another shop. Now the unit is doing fine but I did let the shop that did the rebuild know what was found.
View 14 RepliesFord AOD in 1988 F150. It's my first time rebuilding a trans and after install will not roll in neutral. I guess this is part of the learning process but I really need to get this fixed.
View 9 RepliesI rebuilt my 4r100 myself. 1st time I re-installed it, I had no 2nd gear. All other gears worked fine. Drove it less than 2 miles.. slowly..
Took it back out, found i built the Intermediate Clutch wrong. Fixed. At the same time, found a stuck valve in the accumulator VB, Fixed that, at least i think I did. all the valves snapped back under spring pressure.
Put the trans back in, Drove forward, all forward gears work. Drove 10 miles normally, w/ some time spent in all speed ranges. Temps good, outside temp was 73F
M1 = i get good engagement and engine braking
M2 = I get 1st and 2nd, seems normal
OD = Normal shifts, 4th is a little soft, but always was.. TCC lockup good
OD (Cancelled) = Normal 1-2-3, with lockup in 3rd Worked the button multiple times, shifts down, and back up normally.
N = No movement, no creeping.. Normal.. as far as I can tell.
R = No reverse, or is binding in reverse, not sure. worse when up to temp.
P = Normal, no learching or creeping.. No stalling.
The OD light never blinked, so I don't think it is electronic..
Since M1 works and holds with engine braking. L/R clutch and seals are ok. Forward clutch is ok since i have ALL forward gears, No slipping that I can tell. no creeping in Neutral, so the clutches are not fried.. New fluid is still perfect. I'll have to re-pull the pan to see if there is anything on the magnet. I think it could be some stuck valves in the VB also.
Pulled transmission out and it needs to be rebuilt front to back. My motor is generally stock but I'm rolling on 37" tyres so I'm thinking a stall converter and a "performance" rebuild. Looked at "Monster in a box" from Monster Transmissions. Truck is used at tymes to haul cement and heavy bed loads.
View 2 RepliesSo last night my trans have out, going up a slight grade, all of a sudden the engine revved and I had no more 3rd gear. I've done some research, looks like rebuilding it is the only option. I've got my Mustang GT to drive in the meantime, so I am thinking of rebuilding it myself. The truck is an '07 F150 5.4 2WD.
View 7 RepliesI have a e99 7.3. had the transmission rebuilt a couple weeks ago by a local shop. have been getting some hard shifts between 2nd/3rd when lightly accelerating. Took it back already but they couldn't find anything. I am planning on taking it back again but what it is so it gets fixed right. What is causing this or what it might be? Should I be worried about having this shop try and fix this?
View 1 RepliesI have been having transmission problems in my 2005 Ford Escape due to my torque converter coming apart so I took it to a local transmission shop for a rebuild. After 2 days it was ready and I took it home today. I put it in reverse once and it was fine but the second time I tried to back out of my driveway it won't go into reverse. It will go forward though. His shop is closed and I am going to take it in tomorrow morning. I have a warranty but it says I am responsible for labor. Is this something I should have to pay to fix if it happened the same day I picked it up?
View 8 RepliesI have a 1989 ford f150 xlt lariat it has a 5.0 and a 5 speed and is 4 wheel drive. Any way I am looking into rebuilding the rear end of the truck the pinion shaft has a lot of play in it up and down and both outer axle bearings seem to have lots of play in them. I believe it is a 8.8 inch in the rear. Just wondering if there hard to rebuild or what it all entails I have never taken one apart before and want to know what I am getting into. I have access to a press and a pinion and carrier bearing puller. the axle bearings i have done tons of them but never had to pull out the carrier. wondering how to set turning torque and backlash etc... and torque specs for everything.
View 8 RepliesTransmission rebuild? I seen a few threads where people talk of it but no follow up. I've heard it takes special tools but then so does a lot of things we shadetree on our own....
View 14 Replies1994 E4OD Transmission.
Transmission was slipping terrible after vehicle warmed up. After feeling around for thoughts, it was suggested by numerous people that the transmission needed an overhaul.
Upon Disassembley the clutches were found to be excellent. They are actually thicker than the new ones in the kit. By .015" actually. Quite impressive considering they are 20 years old.
So now, I have kind of lost direction. If the original clutches are thicker than the new ones, and don't show signs of wear. What does that mean?
The fluid is pretty good, and there aren't fragments of metal. Nor is there any metallic shimmering to the color. It doesn't smell burnt or rotten either.
I have drained the torque converter and filled it with gasoline. I am going to spin it and hopefully knock any sediment loose.
[URL]
2004 Ford Taurus - transmission was going out last Aug - had it rebuilt (new seals and torque converter) got it back steering wheel was slightly off (1/2 inch) of being the center when driving straight. Took a while to get it back to the shop - life happens - took back today - said they did everything they could and really needs an alignment which they do not do - drove it home after hanging out at the shop for 5 hours. The steering wheel is now off 2 inches from center and the car is pulling noticeably to the right. Going back tomorrow - but they are saying that it was not them and that I need to pay for an alignment.
View 3 RepliesWill a clutch/flywheel and 5 spd from a 1997 ranger bolt up to an older 1980ish engine that had a 4 spd? What about the starter?
View 1 Replies1998 F150 with 4.6L Windsor SOHC. I just completely rebuilt the engine including pistons, rings, timing chains (timing is good; compression @ 180 psi), 2 new coils, wires, plugs etc. and there's no fire at the plugs when I crank it. It turns over good but doesn't start. The fuel pump comes on and there's fuel up to the injectors. Before I disassembled the engine, it still ran good except for one piston. The 2 new coils, wires, plugs were replace before I rebuilt it. I was very thorough when re-installing the electrical etc... and triple checked it all after the engine not firing. Fuses are good. I know it's hard to trouble shoot without seeing the truck? The battery has been disconnected for months as I started a long time ago. Computer maybe?
View 6 RepliesMy '01 f350 up and running the last 5 years. The truck has 130,000 miles on it and the transmission quit on me two weeks ago. My mechanic pulled the tranny and sent it to a very reputable rebuilder for a complete rebuild. My mechanic then reinstalled the tranny. I picked up the truck and when I paid the bill my mechanic told me that the rebuilder provided a new 4-plate torque convertor and that I would hear it rattle when I was at stop signs, stop lights etc. and that this was normal for these types of torque convertors. I have searched this forum and found all kinds of reasons for this rattle. None of which tell me this noise is normal or should be expected. I have no problem going back to my mechanic and discussing flex plate cracks, engine/tranny misalignment or any of the other causes...
View 2 Replies