I have a 90' Ford Ranger, rear wheel drive.
I can not find a 2 wheel drive automatic transmission and I was wondering if I can convert a 4 wheel drive transmission?
I've got a 1990 ford ranger 4.0 auto trans front transmission seal went bad, I've got everything unbolted abs ready to come put but the trans won't come over top of the front cross member, what could be the problem on why it won't come out?
View 3 RepliesI recently acquired a 4.0 Ranger 4X4 Auto for my use in Costa Rica. It runs fine but it'll illuminate the CEL within a few seconds of starting and whenever revs fall below approx 1000. When pulling off the line or accelerating, the light will go out but comes back on when the throttle closes. The previous owner has replaced the MAF and idle air valve. I've corrected a lot of issues with the vacuum system and think it's back where it ought to be. I know I am going to need to pull the codes but I'm back in Dallas now and can't do it yet. Need general list of affected parts that I could buy here and take back down.
View 14 RepliesI got a 1990 Ranger 4x4 2.9l that loves to get hot only when the ac is on. The engine was rebuilt by me about 2000 miles ago and I made sure to have the block boiled in order to clean out any crap that could've been built up in the water jackets. So far the radiator, cap, thermostat, and fan clutch have been replaced. The fan shroud is intact and the condenser has a few bent fins but not many.
Here in Vegas we're looking at 100+ from 10 am - 4 pm so the ac is a must. I could be sitting at a light all day with the ac turned off and the truck doesn't have an issue. When I turn the ac on though the truck almost immediately begins to get hot. The engine drops maybe 100 rpms and the voltage gauge also drops a little. At night if I'm running the ac the voltage drops to what looks like 10 volts.
While the ac is on there is an immediate loss of power as well. In my head I'm thinking a failing compressor, water pump, and alternator are at fault. It doesn't matter if the truck is moving either, the temp still climbs.I know the rangers are funky with their cooling so when I burped the system i turned the heater on and lifted the front end about 1 ft off the ground with the cap off.
1990 ranger 2.9 ... I have put about everything new on this ranger. It has no spark, ran fine til i went across a set of railroad tracks, it died 6 months ago and never started again .. Many dollars and many hrs has gone into this thing and still no spark. It will spark when you turn the key on. Crank it and 3 more sparks and thats it. Every electrical piece has been replaced. I've checked and bought relays ,fuel shut off, new distributor pickup coil, rotor, cap, wires, plugs, coil and still no start?
View 6 RepliesJust picked up a 90 Ranger last night, 4.0 EC, good ole A4LD, from a recipt I found has 70K or so on rebuild, was driving it today and the TC unlocked, and now it won't lock back up. I checked fluid and it was a little low, topped it off and drove it, and it was the same thing. I'm kinda new to thease A4LDs I know they can have issues, but can be good too. Just want to know whats going on so I can fix it! No codes were found when I scanned it. Trans otherwise shifts fine, you can feel it go into OD but no lockup.
View 13 RepliesI have '90 Ford Ranger 2wd standard cab long bed. A few days ago the speedo stopped working. What is the more likely cause? The gauge itself or a relay/cable. And if it is the cable/relay are they hard to remove & replace.
View 1 RepliesMine has a strange issue. 1990 xlt 2.9L manual 4x4. When first start of the day, after start I push accelerator and it has a hesitation like not getting fuel. Where start?
View 1 RepliesIs there something that would make the 3 cylinders on the drivers side of a 1990 2.9l not fire? I have spark to the plugs and pressure/fuel at the schrader valve on the fuel rail. The passenger side cylinders are firing fine and the engine runs (roughly) on these 3 cylinders. Truck was running just fine, then all of a sudden, drivers side is dead. Is there a fuse or something that controls these three fuel injectors?
View 1 RepliesMy 1990 4.0 refuses to start when the air temperature outside is at approx 40 degrees or below. It will crank until the battery runs dead if I let it. At approx 50 degrees farenheit the truck takes forever to start and always backfires out of the tailpipe and intake manifold (blowing off a hose on the vacuum tree) before it starts. If I can get it to backfire, it will start eventually. If it does not backfire, then I can run the battery dead and the truck still refuses to start. This condition has grown from a little problem to a huge problem over the past 6 months. Here is what I have done so far, including regular maintenance items.......
KOEO test checked OK
KOER test returned code 77 multiple times (TPS).
Replaced Throttle pos. sensor
Replace Idle air bypass valve
Subsequent KOER test came back with no more codes except 11 - OK
Load tested battery
Made new heavy gauge battery cables for + and -
New plugs, wires
newer starter
Changed coil pack for known good one off my explorer
Visually inspected hoses for vacuum leaks, replaced 1 cracked hose
1990 Ranger ext cab 4X2 4.0L, K&N air filter in stock airbox, Pacesetter headers, single 2 1/2" exhaust, stock cat no muffler, 260K on truck, 104K on good used engine from my 1994 Explorer. Purchased Ranger brand new in 1990. A4LD w/ shift kit.
]I recently bought a 1990 ford ranger with a 2.9 @187,000 miles. That being said I went through and changed a few vacuum lines, the oil, air filter, pcv/grommet, and fuel filter.
The problem is it hates to start. I could crank on it for 10 seconds and not a single thing. Sometimes if i turn the key to the off position, wait a second, and try again, Ill get the truck to fire. When it does fire up it just reeks of the lean exhaust. It also gives me some hesitation when I rev it. I did a fuel pressure test (KOEO) last night and it gave me 32 psi and within a minute the needle fell to about 25 psi. I hear the fuel pump run for only 2-3 seconds too.
I've already pulled the MAF off and cleaned it, replaced the TPS, and did a fuel pressure test. The fuel filter is brand new
1990 Ranger 2.3L 4 cylinder. The truck idles so rough it dies. It runs fine going down the road it just seems to "load up" at idle. I know there are hundreds of things that it could be, I just hate to start throwing parts at it. It is definitely running rich at idle.
It is one of those trucks that we have replaced a lot of parts. The scan tool said something about setting the timing??? Is there a way to set the timing? There is no distributor, and it is the one with 2 coils and 8 plugs.
1990 ford ranger.. I just bought this truck, check engine light stays on.. What can I do to find out what's the problem?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1990 Ford Ranger 2.9 4X4 with the Mazda M5OD transmission. I took a peek under the truck the other night and I noticed that my slave cylinder is taking a little leak on me. I was wondering how to go about changing the slave. I could either pull the engine. Or pull the transmission and transfer case.
View 6 RepliesI got a 1990 ford ranger 4.0l and is been leaking fuel from where the regulator conects to the fuel line the regulator is new. I cant find a new fuel line.
View 4 RepliesI'm having a rough go with my little 1990 Ranger Custom. Let me get into the signs and symptoms I'm finding, The Truck is having starting and dying issues. It has plenty of Gas. It is completely erratic when it dies. I'll be driving along and suddenly, as if turning the key off, it dies. No sputtering of the motor, no clicking or clacking or growling anywhere. Just a clean sounding turn off. The odd thing is, I'll leave it for a few hours, and the problem disappears. I can drive it for one to 30 minutes and then it can die again.
Now it's sitting in my driveway I am rough on the truck, because its a work truck that I use to drive down to my job site. So, farm pasture, fields, woodland paths and tractor access roads. I checked to see if the pump plug was unplugged. But it's very plugged in. The entire fuel system is just less than a year old, and I am very good friends with the old owner and he can't figure it out either. Could I be having ignition problems? There is a ticking in the engine compartment that isn't very noticeable, only noticeable when the hood is up and motor running, but that has always been there since I've had it. I heard that sometimes the safety switch on the firewall turns off the fuel system in case of accident.
Could that have gotten agitated? I've been having this issue for a little while, after I drove it in the rain for an hour and half. It was pouring rain. I ran out of gas the day after (because my fuel gauge doesn't work) and I used a Jerry can filled with gas to get it to the gas station. I didn't sift the gas, but I don't see it having debris either. Could I have water in the system? I put injector cleaner in my tank and more gas to try and dilute the system but, that doesn't seem to have worked...
1990 Ranger 5 speed... The tranny has recently started making noises, first I thought it was the throw out bearing but I am afraid it is more than that. As I go thru the gears the trans makes rattling/grinding sounds: in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 5th it is loud but 4th it is quiet. What might be going on inside the tranny....
View 14 RepliesI own a 1990 Ford Ranger, 2.3 EFI with an 8 Plug setup and 2WD. It uses a dual-coil system an not a distributor if that means anything here.
Okay, so for the last week I have been experiencing extremely high oil pressures. My gauge would read almost as high as the "H" mark. The smell of burning oil was heavy in the cab from the vents. I took it easy, made sure my oil level was good and I had enough oil, the truck drove rough, but drove decent.
Yesterday, I got done sliding in some mud (not crazy bouncing or anything, just sliding). I stopped at a stop sign, turned around and hit the gas, and the truck died. I thought there were other issues not related to oil, however I noticed that the oil gauge now read about an inch left of the "L"ow mark. If I turned the key, to the "ON" position, the gauge pushed the needle to above the left gauge itself pointing towards about the "8 oclock" area.
Now, my truck will not start. It cranks and cranks and cranks with no start. I called a bunch of mechanics and none of them knew what I should do. AutoZone did not know what do, no one did. Some people said that the oil pump itself had gone out and that would cause the truck not to start and would cause gauge issue. Others said that it might be as small as the Oil Pressure Switch. Firstly, I bought a new Pressure Switch. Have not installed it because I cannot find the damn thing.
Where the switch OFFICIALLY is. I have read on Google that it is on the passenger side, at the rear end of the cylinder head. Other posts say it is by the oil filter...
PICTURES:
Without the key in the ignition:
With the key in the ignition, in the "ON" position:
My '90 Ranger is experiencing a pretty bad misfire after doing a tune-up. I changed the plugs (gapped to .045), wires, distibutor cap, rotor button, air filter, fuel filter, and cleaned the IAC. It had a barely noticeable miss before the tune up, that's why I did it. Now, it's pretty horrible.
At idle, it's definitely noticeable, and at cruising speeds (RPM's below 3K) it bucks and surges. The weird part about it is WOT runs are as smooth and (somewhat) powerful as ever! At idle in neutral it will revv up just fine without any hesitation as well.
First thing I did was check the firing order, again and again. Made sure all my wires were properly seated on the plugs and on the distributor prongs. Pulled the plugs back out, they were all clean and properly gapped. I pulled the wires off one by one to try to isolate the misfire, but every plug wire I removed made around the same impact on the motor.
Next I ran codes. KOEO, I got code 95 - fuel pump secondary circuit failure. Don't know what to do about this. Fuel pumps comes on at the turn of the key, relay clicks... KOER, I got 11 (pass code), so nothing there.
Then I hooked a fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve on the fuel rail, and at idle pressure was a steady 35 PSI. I also removed the vac. line to the FPR while running to see if gas came out. I checked for vac. leaks as well.
Now not sure what to check now. I've checked everything I know to check, but nothing works....
I have a 1990 4x4 ford Ranger, the little truck was purchased in early 2008 as a work truck but has ended up becoming my main vehicle, it has been a good truck for the most part but know I am having some brake issues, well have been having for some time but they seem to come and go. Usually it happens when I have to hit the brakes hard, the rear brakes lock up, I replaced the master cylinder months ago and thought that fixed it, then a month later it happened again. The last time it happened was friday, the time before that was in march 09'.
I have searched this online and found numerous try this but the original poster never comes back to say if the problem is fixed or what fixed it. My ABS light DOES NOT come on when this happens, it does function properly, it illuminates when the key is turned on then goes off. My parking brake no longer works either but I think that is from me "driving thru" the locked up rear brakes. I plan on replacign both drums and shoes within the next week but would like an option to repair the locking up issue.
So I have a 1990 Ranger XLT 4x4, 2.9 v6. My issue is I am getting a loud constant whistle sound on the drivers side, just in front of the rear tire. It is not from the tire and it is a whistle not a whine. The truck is all stock nothing special. I do not have an exhaust anymore only a cat. Anyways the sound is constant an does not get louder or quieter while moving or in neutral it just stays the same. It just started in the last few days. Also the truck is a Manual.
View 3 Replies