2001 ranger with 4.0, alternator failed and new alternator is also not charging, showing very little output. i've installed 2 new ones with no fix. the regulator is in the alternator, correct? I'm stumped and not sure where to go with this.
View 14 RepliesIs there a fusible link from the alternator to the battery? The new alternator that I put on and got tested is not charging the battery. Was wondering if it could be a fusible link but I couldn't find it. Where it is located on a 2000 ranger?
Also, I put a DC volt meter on the negative side of the battery and the positive side of the CHARGING wire that would be connected to the alternator and got the same reading as if I put the meter on the positive of the battery.
Does this mean the fusible link is good?
We've got a 2012 F550 6.7 with 138k. It recently got a battery light. The batteries are right around 12 volts with the truck running or off. I also tested the output on the alternator and its not charging. I put a new alternator in it and still no charge. All the connections are tight and clean. The batteries load test ok. Where to look next?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1997 Ford Expedition, 5.4. My research indicates that fuses 2. 19. 29 are associated with the instrument cluster (IC), could you identify their specific function in relation to the IC? My IC gauge lights are not showing and my alternator is not consistently charging. The blinkers, battery, oil, brake, and ABS indicator lights are showing in start. Regarding the alternator, my research indicates that a failing alt light on the IC may cause the no charging condition? As a note, I have a brand new battery, brand new alternator, brand new 3 pin wiring harness. Also, when the alternator is not charging and I connect the a jumper from the exciter wire directly to the pos battery terminal, the charging starts.
View 9 RepliesI replaced the seal the other day on my ranger because I noticed my fluid disappearing. Went ahead and changed the filter and fluid as well. Flushed the system, and I go back to my truck tonight and there's a huge puddle of trans fluid. And the output shaft seal is once again, up against the drive shaft. I've spent like $150 on trans fluid since Friday, and $1000+ to get the truck running again last month, so pardon me if I get edgy about her.
99 2.5 auto. I changed the trans pan gasket too. No leaks from it.
My 99 Ranger charges intermittently. Sometimes it is just fine, sometimes the voltmeter drops and the light comes on. Might go a mile, might go all day without an issue. Alternator was replaced 2 weeks ago. Where to look? I haven't ruled out the possibility of a bad "new" alternator, but I haven't been able to get it to act up when I actually have time to start diagnosing it. Is there a relay somewhere that could be causing this?
View 14 RepliesMy 2011 Ranger with a factory Sirius satellite receiver has started showing "SAT FAULT". Checked all the usual things like: Fuse, power, connections, & antenna.
View 1 Replies1991 Ranger STX, 4.0. Had a leak from the rubber seal on the thermostat. Changed the thermostat (stat 195) and seal. Now my temperature gauge is not showing a constant reading, goes to half way and when the thermo opens the gauge falls down to a quarter. The gauge is cycling this way every time the thermo opens.
View 2 RepliesI was messing with the battery in my 200 Ford Ranger the other day and must of arc something. I know this because after plugging my battery back up my radio fuse was blown and my alternator was killed. I replaces the radio fuse, that works now, and got a new remanufacted alternator (tested mine at Advance it was dead). I installed it and nothing changed. The battery still wasn't charging. I know the battery is good because I tested it at Advance Auto. I took the alternator back and the shop replaced it with another remanufacted one. Same thing, installed it and the battery doesn't charge.
This time I took the alt back off and had it tested at Advance. The alt was dead. So I don't know if the part store gave me TWO bad alternators or if my truck is killing them. I find it hard to believe it could kill them immediately but my automotive knowledge is not that vast. I took the second (third counting my original) dead alternator back and they gave me a brand new one no extra charge. So I don't want to put a brand new alt in my truck and it kill this one too because I doubt they will give me a fourth one. What is going on? Could it just be as simple as I got two bad eggs?
98 Ranger 4.0..4WD ex CabXLT Automatic..started the engine yesterday and my charge light came on and stayed on. Checked the guage and it showed no charging and then slowly began to charge and the light went out. If I rev the engine above 2,000RPM's the charge needle starts to drop but if I keep RPM's below 2,000 charging is okay. Is this the sign of a failing alternator? The belt only has about 20,000 miles on it and tension seems oksy
View 4 Replies1998 Ranger... I started having Speedometer/odometer problems after a power surge when my alternator went out. I knew the alternator was going bad and I tried to limp home another 5 miles rather than pay a tow bill and the alternator overcharged for a few seconds before completely dying. Since that time the only problem I am left with is my Speedometer and odometer have not worked. Scan tool says p0500 and I have replaced the ABS sensor on the differential with an OEM part but still no speedo or odo. I have checked all the fuses and relays associated multiple times. I do suspect that the RABS resistor is bad but there is no ABS light and it doesn't make sense that this one resisitor is the sle key for the whole speed control circuit. It's a manual transmission and RABS only. I swapped out the Cruise Control Servo with no luck as well. I am running out of options before having to take it to a dealer because I have to pass inspection. I have also checked and there is no power coming to 679 (GY/BK) into the instrument panel. I have also checked continuity for the rear harness to the ABS sensor and it is good.
View 2 Replies1999 ranger 3.0. Check engine light popped up showing P1000 and P0401 codes. I think the p1000 is a system readiness test. Not sure why that came up and the 401 is exhaust gas problem. I put on a new autozone DPFE a few months ago..
View 5 RepliesI bought a 94 2.3 did a head job bought a rebuilt head and got it all back together hooked up the battery and blew the fusible link to the alternator. Did I screw something up? I have been rebuilding engines for a long time and never had this happen. Tested the alternator and the O'Reilly guy said that the Voltage regulator was shot putting out 17 amps and that is why the fusable link blew. I don't think that's right because the engine was not running I just hooked up the battery, and no I did not switch the pos and neg. I'm dumb but not that dumb. Any guesses?
View 1 RepliesI decided to change out my alternator to a high output. After researching I've decided to go with a DC Power...I'm planning more lights and a power inverter. Any recommendation on which one? I don't care what it cost just don't want to over do it, can too many amps hurt anything? Also, on my previous EX I did the big 3 upgrade. Is it the same on a 2 battery setup?
View 14 RepliesBought a Powermaster 250amp alternator for my '05 V10. Says I need to upgrade my power and ground wires to 4 gauge with fuse on power cable. I don't really run too many accessories other than HID heads and fogs and 2 DVD screens for the boys.
Do do I really need to upgrade my wiring? Can't imagine I'm pulling much more amperage than stock (130amp on my truck).
Picked up a 2000 Explorer XLS for my 16 year old son to drive. It looks and runs great but it needed a new alternator. Long story short, 3 shiny new alternators from AutoZone later, it still acts like it needs a new one. If I check voltage at the alternator, while running, it's never over 12.5V. As I turn on accessories, the voltage drops down to 11.7 and doesn't come back up. When I turn it off, the battery slowly creeps back to 12.5V. The 30 amp fuse is good as is the 175amp fusible link. Shouldn't I have 14+ volts out of a brand alternator?
View 9 RepliesI have a 86 Suzuki samurai that I have just swapped a vw 1.9 turbo diesel into with a gm 3 wire 10si 110amp alternator.
Wire number 2 is looped back onto the 12v post and has 12v at all times
Wire number 1 is hooked into my dash light.
Key on engine off it reads 0v with the dash light on, key on engine on it reads just below battery voltage and dash light is off. The 12v post is hooked into my stock wiring connected to my brand new battery. Today I had my battery and my alternator bench tested and they both came back functioning normally.
My issue is I'm never reading above battery voltage with the engine on (either from the post on the alternator or my battery). I grabbed a used alternator locally and I was having the same issue. However with that one if I pulled the positive lead from the battery with the engine running it would read 14.3v until I would hook it back to the battery where it would drop back to battery voltage. I was able to repeat that behaviour mutlitple times until I ended up killing the alternator. My other alternator is new and I don't wish to damage it pulling the positive lead but I'm betting it's functioning the same way.
What in my system could be causing this? The truck is pretty old and doesn't have a ecm or much of any electrical and I just can't figure out what's going on. Its like some kind of feedback is shutting down the alternator when it gets hooked up to the battery.
So far I've tried temporarily adding grounds with jumper cables :
Measured 0.2ohm resistance between my ground cable and the alternator housing
Measured 0.0ohm resistance between my positive lead and the 12v post on alternator
I've also tried pulling all the relays and accessories I've added to the positive lead with no change. Camping weather is quickly approaching and I need my truck back on the road!
1997 Explorer belonging to a friend who will show up complaining that his battery is dying. Of course, the problem is intermittent.
So far, tried 2 new alternators, (rebuilds), 3 batteries and several diagnostic sessions which have been inconclusive. What I do know is that when the charging system is not working, I still have full battery voltage on the Y/W and LG/R wires on the small wire plug at the alternator. The path from the alternator output through the megafuse to battery + does seem to be intact. Measures full battery voltage and even tried a test by using a battery booster cable to connect the alternator output directly to battery + when the system was not charging.
No change with this test. Visual inspection of the engine to firewall ground strap and the battery - to rad cradle ground wire seem to be OK. Have not had the opportunity to try the jumper cable trick to verify the alternator case to battery - circuit, (darn intermittent!). There did seem to be something intermittent related to a wiggle test in and around the power distribution fuseblock, but once again, this was inconclusive. I also was able to make the charging system fail, (once) by turning on the headlights and blower motor.Any specific failures that may cause this? Not much left to change or check!
What difficulties might I run into on switching in the HO alternator. Is it that hard to get the stock alt out/putting the serpentine belt back on once i get the HO alt in?
Any pictures or videos to make this job easier? The stock alt almost looks impossible to get out unless i remove the entire radiator.. Should I just bring it to a shop and have them install it?
I have a 2002 ford taurus with a basic 3.0 v6 . The alternator stopped charging the battery.
New alternator
New battery
New pcm
Still nothing, this has been causing me the biggest headache. Alternator is pcm controlled btw...
I have a 2003 F350 6.0. I had a flickering Battery lt on the dash last week so I replaced the Alternator. People recommended I upgrade to the 2005 140 amp alt from my stock 110. I have a single alt system. So I did, today it died on way to work. Batteries were drained. Had new alt checked and its fine. So All I have is a wiring diagram from 99-2002 but it shows the plug on the alt with 2 wires, Lt grn/red from switched ign and Org/Lt Blu which goes to batteries. Org/Lt blu has 12v but Lt green/Red has nothing with ign sw on. I did check fuse 45 in Central J box and have power there. I did notice I have no battery Lt on dash when you turn Ign sw on, and never got the Lt this morning when it died. What Im confused about is do I have a PCM? my diagrams that only go up to 2002 model show it for a 2 alt sys but not for a single alt. I should have power on Lt Grn/red with ign sw on correct? Everyone said 2005 alt was plug and play, the elec connector is now pointed down, where it was pointed up on the orig alt, look to be wired the same.
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