1991 Ranger STX, 4.0. Had a leak from the rubber seal on the thermostat. Changed the thermostat (stat 195) and seal. Now my temperature gauge is not showing a constant reading, goes to half way and when the thermo opens the gauge falls down to a quarter. The gauge is cycling this way every time the thermo opens.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 Ranger V6 3000 with 100K miles. Can I add a higher viscosity oil since my pressure gauge is acting up. I changed the sending switch twice but the gauge still acts up occasionally. I was thinking of adding 10/ 30 on my next oil change. I do live in the area where the air temp is quite high in the summer. The truck runs well except for the oil gauge, in my opinion, is giving false readings.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 Ranger 4.0, 4x4 that just hit 100k and the oil pressure gauge doesn't show a reading for about 1 minute after startup. Also, the check gauge light comes on. What do I replace to fix this and is it something I can do myself? I am mildly handy. Would you worry about fixing it or just let it go because it's obviously getting oil pressure.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2011 xlt extended cab with a 2.3l 4 cylinder. The truck is great... I put 120,000 miles on it in under a year.
But about a month ago the temperature gauge started malfunctioning. for what ever reason -- the truck is NOT over heating-- the gauge would increase past the "H" and then the temperature light would come on. Because the truck thinks it's overheating -- the engine goes into a "safe mode" and runs with no power. When i shut the motor off and turn it back on temperature gauge resets and the truck will run fine.
Then in another 50 or 100 miles it will do it again. Why is it doing this? I took it to the dealer here in Columbus, Ohio and the mechanic installed a new thermostat and a new "control modulator" (and a part -- not really sure what it is called) anyway, the truck is doing the same thing and the mechanic still does not know
I have a 2001 ford ranger xlt 2.3L and the temperature gauge has been staying a cold. And my heat doesnt heat well. I'm guessing I need to replace the thermostat. Before I do that could it be anything else?
View 9 RepliesI have noticed that my temperature gauge is indicating that usually my truck is running very cool. It seems that it is also somewhat erratic. At times it indicates what I would expect a reading in the middle of the gauge. Other times after running a while it will drop to the lower end (cool) of the gauge and stay there.
I am guessing that the thermostat is sticking open. Is there a way to test the sensors to see if they maybe bad? I have a 99 ranger with a 4cyl. It looks like I have two sensors. If one is bad, how can I determine which it is?
Driving on my original tank from dealer today from Upstate NY to NYC. On the way my C had 4 bars to begin then went to 3, then 2 after about 90 miles of traveling at avg of about 55mph. I watched the cruising distance go down to 1 but I still had 2 bars on my fuel gauge (and my crusing distance was conservative compared to my mpg reading the whole trip, which was hovering around 58mpg).
The gauge went from 2 bars to one flashing bar in about 1 minute. I pulled into a gas station about 2 miles ahead and put in about 5 gallons... this put the fuel gauge up to 3/4s or about 3 bars above the halfway mark. What gives? I know there are fuel gauge issues but I thought with two bars I would have had plenty of time before I needed to fill up on these roads with these mpgs.
I have an 02 f350 7.3 power stroke...Yesterday I noticed the outside temp was reading wrong,it was jumping from 67 to 86 to 92 back to 67..Temp was prob around 90 with high humidity and my a/c was on..So I got to where I was going and when I restarted my truck to go home the fuel gauge dropped to empty(I just fueled the day before) and fuel light came on and outside temp still wrong on the overhead digital display...Are these two things related???
Stopped the truck restarted it and fuel reads correctly again....Went out today and fuel light back on and on empty...Outside temp wrong again,a/c is on .....I disconnected the batteries when I got home to "reset the system"if there is such thing, fuel gauge working but outside temp wrong..?? Where is the outside temp sensor ?could condensation be running onto the sensor and throwing off my temp gauge? Just strange that both these things happened at the same time......I don't think its a fuse or they wouldn't work at all. I should mention all the other gauges work correctly...
I have a 93 accord ex sedan, 4 cylinder, automatic that I bought in August. I live in South Dakota & it's starting to get cold here. When I first bought the car the temp gauge was working fine in that it would move to the middle of hot/cold range. Recently, I've noticed the interior doesn't get warm for awhile, even after driving 20 miles. It blows warm air but it seems like it should be warmer. I've also noticed the temperature gauge barely moves, if it does at all. Most of the time it doesn't move or just stays on cold. I did some research on here & thought I would try to change the thermostat, upper & lower hose and the antifreeze. I'm hoping this will heat up the interior better because it's starting to get cold here & fix the temp gauge.
Previously, I had a 91 accord & that would warm up great, even when it was bitterly cold here. What would cause the temp gauge to do this? I'm even thinking about changing the transmission control module because I read on here that could cause the gauges to have wrong readings. The speedo & rpm gauges also seem to have wrong readings, especially in the mornings or when I first drive it. I used my gps & found the speedo to be off by as much as 10 mph. The other item I've noticed is that I only get around 23-25 mpg highway & on my other accord I was averaging 28-30 mpg highway. Not sure if this is related or not but thought the more info the better.
I have done all the basic maintenance-oil & filter, plugs & wires, valve cover gasket, air filter, tranny fluid but have never done anything with the heating/cooling system.
Tempature gauge on my 2001 sierra (4.8) has been running low for awhile. The highest it will reach is round 160. It's currently running rough/rich and bad mpg. I replaced the ECT sensor but didn't work. I'm not sure if there are two ECT sensors on this model. I don't think it's the cluster. Is there a second sensor I'm overlooking?
View 13 RepliesI have a 2003 Passat and the engine temperature gauge will read 190 normally and then suddenly drop to almost zero, stay there for a while then head back up.
I purchased a temp sensor to replace the old but for the life of me I can seem to locate it. I know it's in the back or rear of the engine somewhere.
BTW, the car has the 1.8 engine.
I recently replaced my gas tank in my Sundance, it was getting very rusty around the sending unit area and was starting to leak. Everything is back together and it is running well with no leaks. The new problem that it has, when the car is running, the gas gauge shows less than empty, even though it has a considerable amount of gas in it. When I shut the car off, the gas gauge slowly moves up to where it normally would be when it would be running. Did I somehow mess up the ground or did I cross something? This is my daily beater car and need a working gauge.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 Jeep Liberty 2wd (V6-3.7L) that is showing an overheat on the temperature gauge on the dashboard. I replaced the radiator (which I noticed had pin hole leaks), the water pump, thermostat, and the temperature gauge sensor. The car is no longer running through coolant, but the temperature gauge on the dash still reads an overheat. I do not have any bubbling when the engine is cool, no white smoke, the fan turns on just fine, a/c and heater work, no visible leaks, equal heat from both rubber hoses to and from the radiator and fluid seems to be passing through them.
There is also no smoke and no weird sounds from the engine. The overheat on the gauge comes after about 10 minutes of operation and happens whether I am driving on the highway or stopped at light.The only thing that causes the temperature gauge to go down to normal is turning on the heater full blast.Is this issue just a short in a wire somewhere? Should I start thinking head gasket? If yes to head gasket, should I use the "sealants" that are out on the market as a temporary fix?
I have 2002 Camry 2.4L (2AZ-FE Engine) Japan built. Lately, I noted the temperature gauge stay at the 4th mark when engine fully warm up (first mark is at bottom and slightly longer than the next few marks), is this normal? Which mark it is at when fully warm up.
View 1 RepliesMy girlfriend has a 2004 Toyota Camry SE, 2.4, 4 cly, with 198k miles. All maintenance has been done per book guidance since she has owned the car. The other day the car began running really rough on her way home. as soon as she put it into park and lowered rpm the car stalled out. temperature gauge did not read hot, but noticed white steam comes from hood when i seen she pulled up, Opened hood let cool down and coolant looked nasty as heck. So I did coolant flush and replaced the thermostat as per advised from parts store. Did not make a difference because during test drive, half mile down the road, car temperature gauge was reading hot. Shut the car down waited 10 to 15 minutes and drove back home.
Altogether drove roughly 10 miles max in hot condition is stop and cool down and go again mode. Also note, this is the first time using a forum of this sort. Along with, I'm not a mechanic as some are, but I know my way around a tool box no problems. I'm on the verge of just ordering new water pump, belts, fans, fan relays switches, radiator and all since I'm going to be in there to fix it anyways.
New motorcraft plugs, wires, and coil packs. I'm running havoline 5w30 with a motorcraft filter now. I didn't notice the tick when I got it only a few months ago, but it could have been there and not as noisy, I'm not really sure.
I've got some parts to put on when I get time. Probably be a month or 2. I have a timing belt and tensioner, water pump, block heater, drive belt, tensioner, and idler.
It's a constant tick. Worse when cold, but still there warm. Sounds like under the valve cover. I'm not afraid to get in there and fix it, just would like to hear some opinions on what it could be for sure. I've read about the lucas and high mileage oil combo maybe reducing the noise, but if its fixable, I'd like to do it when I have it torn down for the timing belt, which is original I'm sure by looking at it. I really don't like abnormal noises from my engine compartment. Bugs the crap out of me.
2001 ranger with 4.0, alternator failed and new alternator is also not charging, showing very little output. i've installed 2 new ones with no fix. the regulator is in the alternator, correct? I'm stumped and not sure where to go with this.
View 14 RepliesI just tried doing the self test for reading the codes via the check engine light with the OBD1 system on my '93 4.0 Ranger. Problem is: When trying to mark down the flashes of the check engine light, they flash so erratically and rapidly that there is no way to accurately count. At times the light flickers so fast it never even gets to get fully bright enough to tell if it is actually a "flash" or not. I'm (again) trying to diagnose an issue with the truck starting and running fine for about 3-4 minutes and then like flipping a switch begins blubbering and belching out black smoke, check engine light flashes on/off randomly, then the engine will eventually die. It will restart provided the ignition switch is turned all the way off and attempted again, generating same results only within 30 seconds or so. If you try restarting w/o turning the ignition all the way off, it'll spin over but won't start. ECM?
View 4 RepliesMy 2011 Ranger with a factory Sirius satellite receiver has started showing "SAT FAULT". Checked all the usual things like: Fuse, power, connections, & antenna.
View 1 RepliesMy 1991 ranger with a 4.0 turns over but will not start. It acted like it ran out of gas put again seems to do ok then it did same thing it sat over night then would not start so I thought I would put some gas in the intake so it starts ran real rough but smoothed after a few minutes ran fine after that next morning same thing no start did same put gas in intake at first no start just turned over didn't even try let it sit for awhile then tried again it fires up ran rough but ran now I get nothing just turns over pulled codes 22and 122 replaced both had ignition mod checked its good new coil pack no change so at this point i hear fuel pump kick on fuel getting to fuel bar but seems a bit week on pressure going to get pressure gauge and see what it says but in the meantime I am loosing my mind...
View 9 RepliesI recently bought a 91 Ranger 4wd for my son. The guy I bought it from put new manual lock outs on it. every time I take the tire off on either side the hub comes with it! Is there a clip or retainer missing? If so what and where can I get one?
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