Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2003 - Intake Manifold Leaking?
Feb 3, 2015
'03 Ranger, 2.3L. Runs great except at idle. Code p0171. Replaced IAC, no luck.
Brake cleaner leak test definitely results in engine rpm change right around "butterfly rod" plug in front of intake manifold near no. 1 cyl. I'm pretty sure that's the problem - the plastic plug blew out. I watched a video showing repair, but it seems lacking.
I do not want to loosen up intake for access - I'd rather remove steering pump and gain some access to plug it up. There still isn't much access but, but eyeballing it, enough to plug, I think.
Three steering pump bolts came out easy. The fourth one is behind fluid line - extremely difficult to access, imo.
Somehow try to remove pump for access to intake hole, or bite the bullet and remove intake manifold for access?
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I was working on my friend's '87 Ranger with 2.9 L V6, and a little bit of dirt fell into the intake manifold through the injector ports and intake ports. I should've cleaned the top of the engine with a shop vac first. Anyway, should I remove the intake manifold, or try to vacuum the bits out? It's pretty oily inside, and they might be stuck to the inside of it, so the vac might not do much. If I have to remove it, do I have to de-mesh the distributor gear to remove it, or does the distributor attach to a splined shaft? After looking at the diagrams, the answer was unclear.
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So i was thinking about buying a intake manifold for my truck and porting it and polish it. Would it be worth doing. I've decided that trying to port the heads will take up to much time and money for gaskets. Now the only reason why I am buying another stock one is so i can take my time and do it right.
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It doesn't look anything like the illistration in my Haynes book.Where are the bolts located and how many?
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I am mixed up in which fasteners I have to tighten to stop my antifreeze leak. For this, I got some pictures. Do I have to tighten these bolts? Or these? Is this the upper intake intake manifold?
I am just really lost and want to tighten the right bolts and find the torquing specs of the bolts. In the first picture, we can clearly see there is a leak there of what must be antifreeze. The stuff I have been loosing slowly over months.
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Just bought this truck and no check engine light was on, went to get it smogged so I could register it and it had the following fault codes: P1443, P0401, P1131, and P1132. The truck seems to run great in my opinion and even gets really good gas mileage. There is a whistle intermittently from the intake manifold area though that is at times pretty loud.
Smog tech told me these trucks are "notorious" for the check engine light going bad and that usually the entire instrument cluster has to be replaced in order to fix it. I'm a very experienced motorcycle /small engine tech but do not have much experience with car/truck engines and especially not with emissions control systems.
Again it is a 1996 Ford Ranger 4.0 V6, 4 wheel drive STX with 185,000 miles on it. Where to start or what might be the source(s) of these error codes?
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I have a 94 ranger and all of a sudden it started sputtering, i can hear a vacuum leak behind the intake manifold found what appears to be a pcv valve not hooked up is that the way it's supposed to be?
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Son has a 1987 ford ranger 2.9 engine 5 speed 4x4 truck. See anti freeze leaking @ the rear of the engine where the intake attaches to the block. How long to re & re the intake, ect. Is it just gaskets or what? Is it a big job?
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I have a 1999 Ford Expedition. A couple of days ago The engine started losing coolant as soon as the engine cooled. I replaced the coolant only to lose it again when the engine cooled. I was told that it is more likely the intake manifold gaskets leaking. It seems they are right. What is the cost to repair if I take it to a mechanic?
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2.4 Santa Fe ... I just took my Car to MOT inspection and found out there's a leak at my intake manifold and it's coming out of this place. it feels like brake fluid but my brake fluid is full?? I have seen many cars but never seen a part like this before. what is it doing there and why is it leaking ?
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I've currently have 114,000 miles on this Pontiac Bonneville and I replaced the intake manifold last summer. Recently, I have been having issues with the intake manifold leaking a fluid on the right side of it (facing the engine) and been having dirt or some other type of fluid mixing in my fluid tank. The leak has been causing some smoking issues. Also, when I start the car in the morning white smoke comes out of the back of it. Where I need to start so that I can get this fixed. I'm assuming something went wrong in the replacement.
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2003 ranger 4.0 5 speed .... Pretty new to the car/truck world only 18 and this is my first truck, I traded my focus for it and so far so good. Its my first manual but i got to tinkering and i noticed some oil build up under the front end so i got to looking and found this, wondering if its an issue, should I try to fix whatever is causing it or take it to a mechanic. Looks like between tranny and engine to me.
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I have a 2003 Ranger 4x4 with the 5speed automatic. It has 215,000 miles on it and I don't drive it regularly anymore. Lately, I've noticed that it will shake after start up for 10-30 seconds. This only happens after it has sit for a few days or a week. After it warms up, I can drive it and stop and start it again and it has works as usual.
Is there some way the convertor is leaking out fluid and it shakes until the convertor is full again? Or is something else the problem. I've changed the fluid two or three times during the life of the vehicle.
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I've got a 1997 F150 with the 4.2L V6. Before I got it last summer I did some research, but apparently missed the issue with the intake manifold gasket leaks on these early engines. It seems to be a very slow leak, but obviously I want to get it fixed. I called Ford to see if it had had the recall work done on it, but all they could tell me is that there wasn't an open recall on my truck (with the exception of the recent fuel tank strap recall). Their system apparently only goes back 10 years, so they couldn't even see the freakin' recall. So, I've got a few questions:
1) I know I didn't post much info, but does this seem like an intake manifold leak?
2) Are there any special tools needed to change out the gasket myself?
3) Can you all recommend any replacement gaskets? I found a few different manufacturers of gaskets, but I'm sure some are better than others.
4) Can this issue cause the computer to throw the loose gas cap code (P0455 if I recall correctly).
5) Would it be worth it to just get a new truck? I really wanted a diesel in the first place, but I also hate to give up on a nice truck with only 115,000 miles.
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Replaced head gaskets on 2003 f-150 5.4. Now I can hear a ticking noise in middle of intake by #5 port. Maybe timing is off 1 link?
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I am about to replace the intake manifold and gaskets. I know all of that process, but first question is if there is anything i should do whilst in there. Second question; what can I do with my intake to get more power? Mainly just kind of wondering before I get my parts ordered.
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so new motor new intake , rear passenger side decides to leak when roughly about 10 degrese or lower and being -13 yesterday and-18 this morning.
last year it did this n i put a nother hose clamp on that rear tube and just happened to stop . n now back but the ting is that its not wet at all at the hose but at top of head bottom intake hmm . this is all just during the initial start of truck stops even before truck really gets warm
if i tke it off n its messed up i hope its warrentied even though i painted it. if fine i guess add some gasket maker ?
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I was replacing my spark plugs and one screw holding the ignition coil stripped while another snapped. I have change 3 plugs (the easy one) and could have more problems. I spent half a day trying to drill the screws out to no avail and also noticed the intake manifold is plastic. I was thinking of swapping it out. This would alleviate the broken screw problem and make pulling the plugs easier. It also looks like it's just 8 bolts. Would swapping a new intake manifold in add any performance gains? Is there a manifold others recommend?
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just got finished putting her back together from a blown intake manifold gasket and run for a few miles to get rid of any cob webs and then my battery light comes on. just replaced the battery last week. and I tested the alternator and it charging at 14.5 volts bat reads when disconnected 12.9 volts so I am not sure why my battery light will come on.
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I have been having some issues with my 97 ford f150 4.6 liter, started out running rough, then hydrolocked with no serious damage, blown intake manifold gasket, fixed that, alternator over charging do to bad voltage regulator, fixed that. and airbag code 52, still working on that, as well as failure to connect when trying to do diagnostic scan. now I am wondering if the engine diagnostic is still even working. still running good just a very slight vibration when warms up. I am not getting any code. or my check engine light is not showing any codes. What I want to do is force a code. What would be the safest way to force a code or force engine light to give a code?
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I have a 97 f350 crew cab xl stock everything. 351 windsor in it I do believe. as of right now He is broken down pulled apart in my garage. Due to a much requested headgasket replacement. In any event long story short I got him all apart to discover that there was someone in it before me & had broken the infamous exhaust manifold bolts (5) and two of the lower intake bolts, (of course I've tried the correct route in removing these broken bolts/studs but again the year of the truck (1997) & its bone stock no way their moving...
So of course I tried the next best thing (on a budget) which is to drill them out, but I went to far into the exhaust manifold bolt holes, And now I believe that I've ruined the heads is this so? If so who knows where i can get a decent set of bolt on heads ready to go. yes this is my daily driver & since He's been down I've been going deeper in dept.
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