2004 Ford Ranger revs the engine when you engage the clutch then when you place it in gear it's like the cruises on it want to drive without you touching the Accelerator?
View 4 RepliesMy truck is a 2004 (new body style) 4.6L XL Supercab 4x4, trans code A, which I believe is the 4R75W transmission. I bought the truck used last year with 110k miles on it and it still only has 115k now. I think the problem with the trans was there when I bought it (it's highly intermittent) which may be the reason why the PO traded it in, because the truck is in excellent shape and has clearly been well cared for in all other regards.
The problem only occurs after having let up off the accelerator pedal for a while and coasting, then getting back on the gas without coming to a complete stop, like one might do coasting downhill or coming up to a light that turns green before you come to a stop. When that happens it feels like the transmission has shifted into neutral and the engine revs up freely for a second or two and then suddenly engages and clunks / slams into drive. This doesn't happen every time that I attempt to reproduce it, and it went for the entire summer without doing it once. But, now that winter is coming on in New England I find that it is doing it again once in a while. The problem seems to happen whether overdrive is engaged or not.
I've checked fluid level and condition and both are fine. Nice bright red color and no burnt smell. The transmission works well in all other ways except for this one issue. With the exception of this problem it seems to be engaging, driving and shifting perfectly, with no slipping, even when giving it a good romp, with or without 4x4 engaged, or even carrying a heavy load, causes no problems.
To me, this seems like a control problem of some kind, doesn't it? If it was mechanical or hydraulic I wouldn't expect it to only occur after coasting for a while.
When the car is cold it runs fine. After driving for 10-15 minutes the transmission slips, while driving the engine revs and then engages again.I have only noticed the disengaging/engaging as speeds less than 40 MPH. When the car is in neutral and placed into drive it may take several seconds to engage which happens about 60% of the time. Could this be a sensor failure or time for a new transmission?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 Ranger XLT 4x4 with 38,000 miles. When I am at very low speeds (like 5 mph) and usually pulling into a parking spot, the ABS kicks on. I've heard it's the "hub" in my wheel but the dealer won't know which one to replace. Dealer said, take your hands off the wheel and see which way the truck pulls when the ABS is kicking on....well at 5 mph it doesn't pull. At $300 just for the part, I need to know which wheel it is!
Also a friend of mine had this happen to his Chevy Silverado and the replacement hub broke again so they just turned off the ABS....Is this OK to do if I don't want to fix this problem?
I've got a problem with my AC Compressor, with the AC on the compressor engages then disengages about every 5 seconds. Now I looked into it and some people said you can remove a washer to remove a gap. Do you think I should change the whole unit? Looked online and I can get one for $100. If I do work on the AC compressor to try and fix it or remove the whole unit do I need to drain any refrigerant etc etc. I have a hayness repair booklet and they said that to remove the ac compressor you need to get it drained by professionals. Although on the compressor I only see a electrical plug and no hoses.
View 14 RepliesMy buddy called and said his clutch pedal went to the floor on his 04 4.0 ranger. Said no fluid leaks or anything, so I suspect the slave cylinder went. He said the slave is on the inside of the trans and you gotta pull the trans to do the slave, so might as well do the clutch too. How hard is it to replace both these on this truck? I've done it on a 94 cummins, so the trans should be a lot lighter. just wondering how bad of a job it is to do?
View 2 RepliesV10 - When you shift into tiptronic to brake going downhill, the engine first revs up and then the transmission engages. Sort of an automatic double clutch!
View 2 Replies1983 chevy c10I bought this old truck about a week ago and I noticed a few things right from the start. Engine revs kind of high before the transmission engages (about 1,200+ rpms).at highway speed the truck shakes and vibrates really bad at times. the steering wheel doesn't vibrate so I dont think it`s ball joints or tie rods.The truck barely goes backwards when in reverse, the engine revs high (over 2000 rpm) but the truck barely moves backwards.It almost feels like the emergency brake is on.
yesterday the truck (transmission?) started slipping and then it stopped working. I was stopped on the side of the road and this old guy stopped.I told him what happened and he said it was probably the transmission but he knew a way to get it working again long enough to get me home. He picked up a handful of sand from the side of the road and put it in the transmission dip stick hole and then poured half a bottle of brake fluid in.He said the transmission is gone anyway so the sand and brake fluid wont do it any more harm.The truck ran again but not far enough to get me home I had to get it towed. Now I am wondering if it really was the transmission and not just the torque converter. I guess it doesn't matter now because the transmission is probably toast now.
My new-to-me 2001 Ranger 2.3L runs great except for this one problem: At under 2000 rpm, if I give the gas more than the gentlest tickle it misses and bucks until I back off. It also misses at idle. There is no CEL but I did pull a P0442 code which points to the evap purge valve. At above 2K rpm, it runs like a champ and I can floor it, except when under load such as climbing a hill.
Could this be the problem, or should I look elsewhere also? I'm not one to just throw random parts at a problem. The previous owner thought it was old gas or an injector, but I would expect it to run poorly all the time. The service writer at the Ford dealer thought it sounded like an electrical issue, but coil, plug wires and plugs are new.
I have 95 ranger 3.0L revs up over 2000rpm at startup then comes down slowly to a little over 1000... Changed the IAC valve still does it... When I let it warm up I unplug the IAC and idles normal and smooth about 750 RPM so I don't think it's a vac leak... What else could it be???
View 5 Replies2006 4.2L The pedal is good and the fluid is full but the clutch engages and releases about 2 inches from the floorboard. Is there possibly a rod that can be adjusted at the slave cylinder that moves the engage/release point along the pedal travel? Any thoughts before I get out the creeper?
View 1 RepliesI have an 87 ranger that has started having problems over the last week or so. I had a similar problem a year or so ago. I put a new fuel pressure regulator on and it fixed it. So it started acting up again so I got another regulator and it didn't work at all. It won't idle at all without dying. The motor revs up then cuts out completely and dies. It's like I'm repeatedly pressing the gas pedal when I do get it to idle but I'm not touching it at all. It runs fairly well on the road until I let off the gas then it goes to shaking and jumping up and down till I get back on the gas.
A guy told me to unplug a little cigarette pack shaped plastic box and see if it changed anything. I think he called it a map sensor? But that didn't do anything. I was thinking maybe the fuel filter was clogged up but I don't really know. It is fuel injected 2.9 4x4 regular cab. About 110000 miles. Not sure if filter has ever been changed. It doesn't smoke or smell like gas so I'm thinking it's starving for fuel.
thinking of taking a gamble on an '04 with 248k miles on it.....not sure what engine is in it.
View 11 RepliesIn a matter of weeks, my truck destroyed two sets of flywheels and starters. When the ignition key engages, the engine "jumps back?. Apparently, this causes the starter and flywheel teeth to grind. My mechanic cannot determine the cause of the "jump back". He thought that it might be the timing. His examination and testing, however, proved the engine properly timed.
View 6 RepliesIt started doing this fairly recently - no work has been performed - it just decided to not work right one day... The A/C compressor will not engage until after the engine is hot - the idiot gauge on the dash has to be firmly in the middle. After it engages, though, hoo boy does it blow cold - which is great, except I didn't used to have to wait as long to get cold air... It does cycle.
I thought, okay - low coolant - I get one of those refill bottles of r134a (w/ "conditioners" and whatnot) with an attached gauge at walmart and pump it into the truck - no change. Gauge was cheesy - told myself to get a better one.
I wait a while and get another bottle of refill r134a - one with a better gauge on it - and try again. Truck doesn't want any more - I may have overfilled, but there's no change - before the compressor kicks in, the gauge reads in the red - overcharge - but once the compressor kicks in, it drops and starts reading in the green and, when I checked per ambient temp, it was a bit in the high-end of the green for that temp, but was fine. I have no way of checking the high-pressure port.
Is there a temp switch of some kind on this system? I don't think it's low on r134a, but something is keeping the compressor from kicking on like it used to.
This morning, I shifted into neutral and left the truck running. When I got in it put it in reverse, the shifter peddle went all the way to the floor and the clutch did not engage. I turned off the engine, and the transmission shifted easily. I put it into reverse, started the engine, and when I tried to shift back into first, the same thing happened. Pedal to the floor with no resistance, and I could not get it into gear. I finally forced it into 1st to get back into the driveway, but had to stall the engine to keep from going through the garage door. The clutch would not disengage at any time. I checked the master cylinder and it is 1/2 full. Has my clutch gone out?
View 14 RepliesWhen I got home today I went to back into my parking spot and couldn't get my truck in reverse, or any other gear for that matter.
I've been suspecting something was going to go wrong because the last few weeks or so when I push the clutch in it sounded like bb's rolling around in a metal coffee can. Since I have owned it (2 yrs) the clutch has seemed funny anyhow, as in I really have to feather it so it doesn't grab and stall out.
So I've visually inspected what I can so far. Master cylinder fluid is at a proper level and I pulled the inspection cover on the transmission. I didn't see any fluid and reached inside and there wasn't residue in there either. I observed the throwout bearing pushing the clutch cover fingers in when the pedal is pressed and that is about it.
Just wondering about some additional checks I can perform to pinpoint the problem, as well as how to fix it and get rolling again.
1999 Ford Ranger 4x4 XLT
3.0 V6
134,xxx miles
No modifications
2003 Ford Ranger .. ac:system is over pressurize when I add freon the clutch goes on and off.Is there a high pressure switch for something
View 1 RepliesMy clutch is weak and slips sometimes and I need to replace it. ,I have replaced the clutch disc in other trucks but never a Ranger.
1999 3.0, 5 speed stick, Extended cab....
I think the time is near for a new clutch in my 98 Ranger, 2wd/ 5 spd. How tough of a job is this? I've changed the one in my 66 Mustang years ago but things were less complicated then.
View 3 Replies1997 Ford Ranger w/manual 5 speed tranny
A few weeks back my clutch pedal seemed a bit softer than usual one day. Still it worked fine... no problems shifting. Today after a short ride it went almost to the floor before disengaging. Now I cannot get it in gear without grinding.
So cold out I'm not sure I want to tackle this right now, what to look for and where?