Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2006 - Stalling When Slam On Brakes
Oct 23, 2012
Little back story, truck sat up for 2 years. Had 1/2 tank of gas in it that time. I had to do a complete motor swap. I been driving for past couple of days. Had it stall on me while I was waiting on wife to come out of store. Thought it was just bad gas. Today I was heading to town and had to slam on brakes and it started to stall again. It shut off. I cranked it back up and it runs fine till I start slowing down. then it wants to die.
I can keep my foot on gas petal and little and it will stay running. I got to where I was heading and put it in park and it idled fine for a few seconds and then I could hear a whine from the fuel tank. Sounds like the fuel was having a hard time, like it was fighting the pressure build.
Thing is It cranks right back up and drives fine as long as I dont come to quick stop or set idling for a few seconds. I can hear the pump straining, so I am assuming that when I keep my foot on gas a little the pressure is staying lower and not as much is being bypassed and the pump is fine. I think the pump is on its way out but wanted to hear what yall think.
I do have a brand new IAC valve that I bought and did not get a chance to use on the blown motor.
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My 2003 ranger xlt 4.0 has a stalling problem. The engine light came on in aug and I had it coded at AutoZ and there was a code for the oxy sensor, changed that and didn't work so I took it back. In oct I had it coded and it said the air int temp sensor which i was informed was part of the mas airflow sensor, changed that the beginning of nov, got the computer to reset and it still didn't fix it.
Took that part back and had it coded again a few days later and several codes came up AutoZ code 1732 and the the OEM number to cross for them were: P2195 , P0300 , P0316 , P0174 , P0171 , P2197 . Reset the comp yesterday and as soon as the light came on had them code it again and it came up AutoZ code 1732 OEM # to cross P2195. I guess my next step will be to take it to the dealers to get diagnosed..
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When I'm driving it starts to cutout (but it never dies) and it won't stop cutting out until I floor it and then it's fine for a little bit and it starts doing it again.
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I have a 1995 ford ranger v6 4.0 and for this week Ive been having a problem, stalling... It only happens when I do quick "stop and go" driving. Even sometimes at stop lights it wants to stall, the only way to keep it going is to keep my foot on the gas.
Now for a while when its cold or my truck has been sitting for a day or two the truck doesn't start on the first click.
I've had the fuel pressure checked, changed fuel pump, and starter. I have no check engine light on at the moment. Tomorrow I am gonna check with my scan tool just to make sure. But, it could be fuel pressure regulator, idle air control actuator, egr valve? How I should go along doing this?
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I am fairly new to this stuff but I just got a 85 Ranger 4x4 and its running pretty rough it will be fine then all of a sudden it will bog right out and want to stall so I have to keep my foot planted on the gas and it pops and spudders and eventually runs normal again? Its a 2.8 V6 carb...
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It's an oldie, 1984, but so far still kicking. 6 cyl 2.8, carb. I took a little couple hundred mile trip a few weeks ago. Rolled back into town no problems.
A few days later I took a ride and the ranger would stall when approaching a stop sign or light. I would hold the pedal down a little to keep it running but it sounded like it wanted to die if I didn't feather the pedal to rev a bit.
I drove a few days later, as I was going down the neighborhood road(25 mph), it acted like it wanted to just die. I mashed the pedal and it had no effect. It didn't stall and eventually I could rev the engine to continue.
It continues to do the same, then will all of a sudden take off like there was never a problem. If/when it does stall again, it can be hard to start until it does start and off I go again like there was never a problem. Other times, it will idle.
Another note: Sometimes when I go to start the engine it will stutter, intermittently turnover. It has done the same thing while actually driving, kind of a jerking deal.
Fuel filter, fuel pump, electrical? I'm going to first check/replace the fuel filter tomorrow.
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94 Ford Ranger 2.3L
I started to have a slightly rough idle a while back, but not severe. I figured she was just aging a bit.
Changed plugs. Check engine light came on. Changed plug wires. Then I had a couple of episodes where it started to lose power and idle really rough (stalling). Both times it stopped after a few minutes. Had code read- they said it was coils. Replaced ignition coils. Check engine light still on, but it went a few weeks without power loss.
Tonight the loss of power returned and didn't leave, and I had a glowing red catalytic converter after I limped home 20 miles (hope I didn't do any serious damage, I was stranded.)
Found this post : [URL] .... But there's no resolution.
So, I'm probably dealing with a misfire, and I'm sure I torched my cat after tonight. So any other easy diagnose/fixes for a misfire? I'm a shade tree mechanic- so I know just enough to get myself in trouble. If I can't get a resolution soon it will be off to the mechanic (which, maybe I should have done 1st...)
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I had to replace the tie rods in my mazda b2300 and the mechanic also replaced the brake pads.
Now when I drive, I can hear the pump for the brake fluid going on and off when I'm not even using the brakes and the ABS goes on a lot too.
He tried resetting the computer by unplugging the battery for a bit but it's still doing it.
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Recently my brakes were feeling a little spongy so I took my X to a local shop who installed new front and rear brake pads and flushed the brake fluid. The brakes seemed to operate properly.
But, then while driving on the interstate in Tampa, I had to SLAM on the brakes but it seemed like it took forever to slow down. It's hard to describe, but it's like when you are moving at interstate speeds and then you have to SLAM on the brakes, the X just slows down and comes to an eventual stop. It does not stop quickly.
I do not feel any pulsing from the antilock braking system so I don't think it is being activated for some reason. This seems to only happen at faster speeds. I have no problem when driving around town and slowing down for stop signs or red lights. It slows and stops just fine.
So I took the X back to the shop and they replaced the Booster w Ford booster. I thought I checked it out as soon as I picked it up around town AND on the interstate.
But, today I had to SLAM on the brakes while on the interstate again and it is acting just like before - just slowing down, but not fast and without the antilock brakes activating (apparently).
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I tried to explain this to a garage in January with no luck. When it is raining I hit my brakes and my truck jerks like whiplash. Softly hitting brakes doesn't do it, normally hitting them does it (only in the rain), I had some welding done after I went to the garage.... They fixed the front passenger side now it feels like it is under me and it is now doing it when I brake in reverse too... I bought it October 2012 and it was safety inspected until October 2014. Trying to decide if it is worth keeping. I want to keep it but when I go to a garage they see dollar signs. It only acts up when it's raining. And I had the welding done in January and it was fine, until I got new tires last week.
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Received the truck, 1989 Ranger XLT long bed single cab from my mom. It had been used by my younger brothers for some years, and then sat at mom's for a couple years.
It needed new front brakes badly, so replaced rotors, and pads. No unexpected problems there.
Looked at replacing the rear. Both adjuster cables were initially broken, so they obviously weren't adjusting, or braking. Replaced with a hardware kit, and shoes, and drums. Its the 9" drums, BTW.
Still not actually braking. I can tell this, when at a stop sign in the winter, with the brake pedal held down, and the backs will still spin, with the tranny in D. Even on gravel or grass, this'll happen.
One shop told me this is because the axle seals are leaking. THey've never leaked badly, and the axle fluid isn't low, by and shade of the imagination. Also, this theory falls apart, when the parking brake works just fine, right? Its just hydraulically that they don't work.
I've since replaced the wheel cylinders, the brake line from the frame to the rear axle, and the master cylinder. No change. Bleeding them doesn't seem to be a problem; i.e. no lack of or little fluid witnessed, it seem fine.
Also have bypassed the RABS valve for about a year or so, and its made no difference. Last fall I pulled the drums off, and manually adjusted them, and it didn't seem much better either.
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On deceleration with the brakes (not coast to slow) I get a growling. Sometimes a bit worse than others. Seems to get worse coming up to about 20mph from speed. No other time. I was thinking front wheel bearings as the load up from deceleration. But I just jacked it up and could not find anything that felt or sounded wrong. No play or grind or "bad" feelings in either of the fronts. Front end recently rebuilt, new tires too.
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I have a 2007 ranger and when applying the brakes i get a vibration, I think it may be in the rear of the truck but it is hard to tell.
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All I did was take wheel off to tap a stud and I saw the inboard pad shim came off. So I removed the shim and reinstalled everything and the wheel is severely pulling to the right. Yesterday I took the caliper off but did not take off hose, cleaned slide pins and lubricated with anti seize. Still pulling to right bad. Don't hear any squealing or grinding. But pass side wheel is definitely hotter than drivers side. One mechanic said he thinks it would be a bad hose before replacing caliper. What could it be?
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My manual 5 speed 99' 2WD 2.5L Ranger is starting to have some small problems here and there. My main concern is when I start the vehicle sometimes, there is no idle. The vehicle will turn over and if I do not hold the gas pedal down it will die immediately after about 2 seconds.
If I hold the gas down so the RPM's stay up (Around 700 RPM's or so, something just a little above 0 to keep it from dying) after about a minute, sometimes few minutes the idle will kick in and I do not need to hold my foot on the gas pedal to keep the truck from dying.
This is about all I know from the problem besides that it does not matter how long my truck is sitting. For example, my truck was sitting for 5 days and I came home and started it up just fine, but after I drove it a few minutes later and stopped driving, when I went to drive it about an hour later the symptoms came back again.
Also, My brakes are acting a little funny. I went through when I first got the vehicle and bled the brakes, took the front rotors in to auto zone or another shop and had them fixed up, and new brake pads. Sometimes when I first start driving the brakes are extremely sensitive, to the point where I apply a little bit of pressure and my truck will start skidding. This goes away after driving for a little bit though.
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I just had new shoes, hardware, wheel cylinders, drums, leaf springs, rear shocks, and shackles put on. The brakes were done about 4 or 5 months ago and the springs and shocks just a few weeks ago. The rear brakes were locking up after I had the work done, but I thought they were just too tight. I loosened them a little but it only worked a little.
Now it's starting to lock up pretty much every time I apply the brakes. The ABS kicks on and the rear tires skid. I took the drums off today and didn't see any leakage or anything out of the ordinary. They weren't too tight and I readjusted them but they weren't out of adjustment much if at all. I looked at the Ford symptom chart and it says for brakes that lock up easily there could be sticking or binding components. I didn't see any. Then it says check parking brake components.
Now I see they didn't hook up the equalizer bracket that goes to the front leaf spring hanger when they changed my springs so I assume thats why my parking brake pedal goes to the floor. Then it says check the shoes and linings, which are fine. The last thing it says is to check the fluid control valve. Which I'm guessing is the prop valve.
The only way to check it according to Ford is swap it for a known working valve. One person told me that it could actually be a bad brake booster check valve. Is that possible? Anything else that's common? It's got 272,000 miles on the frame but everything's been changed that typically wears out at least once.
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I recently changed the front pads and rotors on my 2002 Ford Ranger 2wd and I'm having some troubles now. Occasionally when I'm pulling up to stop lights toward the end of my braking i can feel them cut out and the ABS kicks on. It's a very intermittent problem, and it only happens at low speeds. When I try to induce the fault it never happens, it only seems to after an extended period of braking going less than 10 mph. I'm very confused, and I was thinking about changing out my calipers unless know what might be happening.
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I have a 2004 Ranger 4x4, 4.0, auto and have trouble with the back brakes howling, locking up and generally driving me nuts. I've replaced the drums, shoes, cylinders, emergency brake cables and all the hardware. We've bled all 4 numerous times, blown out the lines, looked for leaks and done all we can think of. What am I missing?
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I have my 1940 Ford pickup on an 86 Ranger chassis. I'm finally to the point where I can drive the truck a little (still not running right) and I'm thinking about upgrading to power brakes. I have used the entire braking system from the Ranger in this build. What's involved in upgrading? Right now, there's a standard Ranger master cylinder hung on the firewall and attached to a Ranger pedal hanger assembly on the other side of the firewall, so I have all Ford parts to interface with. Also, what is the diameter of the booster and how deep is it from front to back and will the upgrade require a different master cylinder?
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I have a '99 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD. I've been having this problem with my rear brakes locking up on me while slowing down and pressing the pedal to stop the forward movement. There are four components which could cause the problem. My OEM Ranger Repair Manual suggested to replace the Proportional Control Valve which I did however that did not correct the problem. I don't have the Brake nor the ABS Warning light coming on and they check out OK during the start up. I have no problems braking from any speed except when coming to a stop. I inspected my front disk and the rear shoe brakes and they seemed to look OK. The other components which could cause the problem are the Control Module, RABS valve and the Speed Sensor. My question is: If any of these components malfunction, shouldn't the ABS Warning Light come on?
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99 Ranger XLT 4.0 4WD Automatic. With the turn signal blinking and I depress the brake the turn signal stops blinking until I release the brake. Where to start.
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