Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2010 - 2wd Low Range - 16mpg Towing?
Jun 2, 2016
I'I have a 2010 Ranger sport 4x4 that I use to tow a popup camper. IT does the job well and still gets about 16mpg towing! My problem is the ridiculously tall reverse gear in this thing that is making my clutch very sad. When backing my camper into my driveway I have to slip the clutch pretty bad.
I would like to be able to disconnect the front axle actuator somehow and use the low range in 2wd for backing up into my driveway.
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I am looking at buying another ranger. Miss my 02 so much and my son will be 16 in a year or so. Thinking about getting us a 4x4 to share and ditching my full size Dodge.
I located an 04 FX4 II, and I was hoping to get some info and confirmation on a few things. I believe that all the FX4 had a 4.10 rear end. True?
What the exact towing capacity of the 4x4 FX4 is? My 02 (2wd) had a capacity at like 5200lbs, I am just wondering if this is the same number for the 04 4x4?
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Got a code of p0708 on 2003 ranger flex-fuel 3.0.. Which is I believe is Transmission Range (TR) sensor. Not sure where to find that on truck...
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I recently got a 2010 Ranger sport 4x4, and the a/c seems to be working anytime the cold air is selected and any vent position.
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So I locked my keys in the truck and road side assistance pried the door with the hand pump airbag. After which the dome light won't turn off. The drivers door which they pried remains open about 2mm more then the passage light but if I lean on it the light still dosent shut off. This is a 2010 ford ranger. What I should try/check first?
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Last week I noticed a slight "whomping" noise in my 2010 Ranger. Not a knock, not a ping, nothing that sounds metallic. Just a rhythmic whomping sound that only shows after the engine and tranny are hot.
It only does it in Drive or Reverse; and not in Park or Neutral. The tech at the dealership (30k on the vehicle) says he thinks it is a bearing in the torque converter.
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A friend has a 2010 ranger with the 2.3L with the manual transmission. He said that when he drives and the rpms are up he said he gets a grinding noise it doesn't matter what gear 1rst or 5th. He think throw out bearing but no noises at all until the rpms are up there. I was think internal like shift fork but don't know.
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I recently bought a 2010 Ranger; it has been a fleet vehicle since it was brand new. The truck has some sort of warning beeper that goes off (installed by the fleet) every time the truck approaches 70 mph. How I can remove/disable this thing?
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I tried moving a latch in the (driver) door to stop the chime from chiming when the driver door is open and the ignition is in the accessory position, but no luck. Looking for a solution for temporarily disabling the chime through some mechanical means? (2010 Ranger)
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I have a 2010 Ford Ranger Sport. RWD with the 4.0L. Currently Sitting at 46,000 Miles.
Where I am located, it is very cold. Downwards of 5 Degrees F. I just started noticing a strange sound in my truck. When accelerating from a stop light I hear a single knock, and to my ear it sound as if it was coming from the rear. First thing I did was check the U-Joint, but there is zero play and it is very tight.
After driving quite a lot and unable to diagnose the problem, I part and got out of my truck, only to hear that same noise when I stepped out of the truck. (I am not fat 195b lol). So I sat back down and I heard it again. Did this a few times and consistently heard it. I got into the bed of my truck and started to jump around and got the same knock.
I shook the exhaust pipe to see if it was making the noise, but it wasn't, which makes sense considering while driving over bumps I could not hear anything. I am totally lost as to what this could be....I want to add that I CANNOT feel any difference driving. Feels great.
My ideas on problems are as follows;
-Spare tire
-bushing
-loose bold
-leaf spring (maybe a hanger)
-The cold creating noise like always.
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I know the towing capacity of a 2014 RX with tow package is 3500lbs. Im curious to know would I be Able to actually tow , 1500 lbs 2 motorcycles plus small trailer safely and efficiently without causing damage to the vehicle?
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So got out of my car this afternoon, dropped something, and saw this for the first time since I bought the car three months ago. What it is that reduced the towing capacity?
In reading it closer, I guess it is 'carrying capacity' that has been reduced, not towing.
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My owners manual for my 2010 Prius says speeds over 85mph can result in severe engine damage. It also states you should not pull any type of trailer, but I have seen a few Prius's with trailer hitches but I would not try it.
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At a certain temperature range (just below freezing, -10C to 0C) I was getting a rattle that sounded like I had a cup of dice on the top of my dash. Any slight movement would cause the dice to jostle about, in other words the rattle was constant, the slightest bump or ripple in the road, slight speed up/slow down, even relatively flat roads would cause noise. It would come and go as the temperature changed but this last week the outside temperature has been consistently in that range, so therefore while driving anywhere I had to first head towards a place called "nuts". I'm not due for any service for a while, but it was getting to the point where I was prepared to make the long drive to the dealer. First though, I tried to hunt it down myself.
Spent last night with my head under the dash looking for anything that could be that loose to make noise so easily. I noticed the TPMS reset button unit sat kind of loosely in the lower dash panel, I could make a noise shifting it about, but it was just too light and too low down to make the noise I was hearing. I did the usual reaching around applying pressure to various parts of the dash while driving. Trying to listen carefully, I decided the sound was coming from the windshield (or deflecting off of it from the dash). I tried applying pressure to it, I even put a pair of socks on the end of a yard stick to I could put some pressure at various points along the windshield / dash area. No difference.
Finally, got a bit of a hint. On the highway, passing 60mph the rattle started to abate, getting close to 75 mph the rattle almost completely disappeared. Wind pressure? On inspecting the lower part of the windshield, wipers, etc. I notice that by shifting the plastic underneath the wiper arms it would make a noise. It doesn't feel very loose, it took some effort to slightly shift it, but it did make a noise. I took my "test socks" and jammed them under the hood directly in front of the wiper, creating some downward pressure on the plastic. Silence! Golden Silence!!
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Been driving around a lot trying to empty the gas tank in my new Prius and was wondering what the "Cruising Range" figure actually represents. Do the miles listed mean I have that many miles left until the tank is bone dry, or is that the range until the tank gets to the warning light?
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How many miles can get on one tank of gas. Is it between 300-400 miles? I know hills and city driving makes a difference, but I'm trying to get an average.
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What is the range on your remote to lock or unlock your truck?
Mine is currently 30 +/- feet I recently replaced the remote batteries and saw no improvement.
On my Toyota it is 200 +/- feet easily..
I am just trying to determine if a trip to the dealer is needed.
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I just changed my Oil, added a FRAM filter and bought some good Quakerstate High Mileage and my truck runs good. However, I noticed that my Check Oil light is constantly on. I also recently changed my Oil Sender, and I wonder if that has got something to do with it.
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I have a 1994 2.3l 4cylinder xlt ford ranger regular cab Manuel transmission. My transmission is going out. I found an 04 ford ranger Manuel transmission off a v6 will this be compatible? And if not what years will be?
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I have a 1994 ford ranger 4x4 that I just put on and 35's and when I get to 35 mph it shakes really bad. What the problem is. Have been told that I need a steering stabilizer.
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I need to change the AC relay. What is the location of the relay.
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