Ford Ranger / B-Series :: High Beam Malfunction - Moving Forward Headlights Cut Out Completely?
Sep 19, 2016
I have a 1995 ranger four letre 5sp, dubbed Beula. I figured there'd be a few gremlins and there was and is, which I know to be more common than not in older trucks. The top priority is figuring out why when I push the lever for the high beams forward, the headlights cut out completely, whether in gear or not, and I don't know where to begin troubleshooting. I've surfed around the forums looking for answers and really only found conjecture.
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2004 Ranger Edge 2wd 3.0L. When the truck has been sitting for a while and i start moving forward there is a very loud sound of metal on metal. Changed the diff fluid last week, used royal purple 75-140 with the friction additive. No change, tried to take rear wheels off, but the drums are stuck by the pads. I was able to get the drums off only bout an inch.
Recently, I've noticed that on hard acceleration the RPM go up but it seems sluggish on acceleration. There is also a vibration that comes from the rear and goes away when i remove my foot from the accelerator. The squeal happens between 15 and 20 mph, but goes away fairly quickly. The vibration happens around 40 or so. I am thinking rear axle bearings? But i cant get my drums off to replace the bearings.
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I have a 2000 ranger and the right low beam went out, we changed the bulb to no avil. I thought it might be the light switch so we changed it also ,nothing!! We have checked the only ground, I can find for the lights (on the driver side under the fuse box under the hood). This problem has me stumped . Another problem that may or may not be related is the cargo light does not work either...
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[URL] ... Looking for info on my 99 Ranger.
Here's what happened,I have an electric plow I hook to my Ranger every year with no problems,except this year. The day after hook-up my wife noticed no high beams, don't know if the two are related but I did nothing but connect the plow wires already in place. Anyway I proceeded to look for a fix, fuses first, replaced both headlights next, blinker/high beam/wiper lever-still no fix and to boot my truck doesn't ding when keys in ignition, four wheel switch doesn't work, & wipers don't work.
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My car is fully stock, with all options available to me (cold weather package not available here). The low-beam triple-LED headlights are aimed way too low compared to all my previous cars, and where they should be. BUT high-beam is aimed properly. So if I adjust the low-beams up, my high-beams might end up lighting up the trees, not the road.
If adjust the headlights up on a fully stock car (not lowered at the front)? Are the high beams still lighting up the road fine? And if you can be specific as the number of turns on the screwdriver, it'd be good too to have an initial adjustment reference.
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I added plow lights to my truck and something quit when I had the high beams all on at once. All 4 shut off. Low beams still working. What I fried or where to check? Its a 99 F250 superduty.
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Just bought a 2006 with 80k miles and HID headlights on it and noticed while parking in the garage last night that only the passenger side high beams work. Upon closer inspection and having my fiance flip the beams on and off I could see that the reflector on the drivers side didn't move at all.
This is after i just had a brand new driver side lens, bulb and ballast installed as when i bought it the headlight had a lot of condensation built up inside it. So I'm not really sure if the highbeam was working before this was all replaced because the bulb went out right after i bought it.
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So I recently bought a 1997 7.3l F250. It is in fairly good condition, but it has some problems with the lights working. The turn signals and hazards all work, as do the tail lights and headlights. However, when I hit the high beam switch, the headlights cut off entirely. Also, the brake lights do not work at all. Ive checked the bulbs and since they all work Im not sure what the issue is.
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Last week I smelled something burning when I arrived home. I looked around the car and did not see any smoke. I noticed the other night that I had no headlights (low or hi beam) The fog light work fine. No fuses are out.
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08 accent passenger headlight was noticed to not be operating while in low beam. Switched to high beam- it works, but still no low beam.
First instinct was replace the bulb. Low beam works but now.. high beam doesn't?? Bulbs are fine, brand new out of the box and driver's side works like a charm. Bright as heck... passenger's side isn't quite as bright If that's any relation to the problem.
Checked the fuses, they're all good. Made sure bulb was placed in secure. Filament didn't get bounced around either. Was poking around online and seems it could be the relay. Manual doesn't seem to list a relay for the headlights or am I not reading it right?
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Will move if n 4low and give some rpm's. Reverse is fine, disassembled and clutches look fine.
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I woke up and drove to a stop sign. When I tried to pull away the transmission raced like crazy, HIGH RPMS! But was barely moving. After about 8-15 mph it would finally catch 2nd gear. I check fluids frequently, and topped it off a few weeks ago, and when I finally got where I was able to stop, I looked and there was no fluid registering. So I put 2 quarts in to fill.... Then started the car and it would not go into any gear completely. I'd just feel a small thump, when I shifted. It will actually drop into gear after a while going straight, but it's stil revving HIGH and it won't completely go into reverse. Weirdest thing, the "Anti-Lock" light came on while all this was happening...
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Just discovered that both high beams are not working. Regular lights ok. When switch to high beam both go off. I know some bulbs have two filaments, is this the case for this car? Are the bulbs burnt out or something else is wrong?
This is a 2007 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited.
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2000 ranger v6 automatic trans electronic 4wd shift on the dash. Plowing snow all of the sudden lost both forward and reverse never slipped or made any noise. Transmission fluid is fine to the level and clean. Put in drive nothing and reverse nothing put it back in park you can hear the park paul trying to click in. Towed it back to the shop thinking maybe the transfer case was junk. Decided to check the actuator on the transfer case no power going to it, go back to the switch no power there either check the fuses both are good and have power. The question i have is could a bad GEM module cause all this? ps the windshield wipers do work.
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When my gas light comes on during the day my horn blows every couple minutes at night time the headlights go from high-beam to low-beam every couple minutes. Also, my check engine light is on more than it is off
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2001 4.0 4x4 auto trans... Problem, tranny judders when coming to a stop moving at around 3-4mph. Engine drops to around 500rpm and maybe one second later returns to normal as the tranny seems to disengage. No judder or shifting problem when accelerating.
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I have an 87 ranger that has started having problems over the last week or so. I had a similar problem a year or so ago. I put a new fuel pressure regulator on and it fixed it. So it started acting up again so I got another regulator and it didn't work at all. It won't idle at all without dying. The motor revs up then cuts out completely and dies. It's like I'm repeatedly pressing the gas pedal when I do get it to idle but I'm not touching it at all. It runs fairly well on the road until I let off the gas then it goes to shaking and jumping up and down till I get back on the gas.
A guy told me to unplug a little cigarette pack shaped plastic box and see if it changed anything. I think he called it a map sensor? But that didn't do anything. I was thinking maybe the fuel filter was clogged up but I don't really know. It is fuel injected 2.9 4x4 regular cab. About 110000 miles. Not sure if filter has ever been changed. It doesn't smoke or smell like gas so I'm thinking it's starving for fuel.
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I have a 2000 ranger 3.0,automatic 4x4.The truck will not go forward in drive 1 or in drive. If I start out in second gear it will shift through the other gears. What the problem is?
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My 4x4 4WD Ranger has a 5 speed manual tranny that locks up after going forward a few feet. It can back up all day long but locks up going forward. some god awful noises (grinding, clunking, etc) come out of that gearbox. the 4wd is electrically operated. the ? is , can this tranny be rebuilt with a kit? I'm having great difficulty finding a replacement. Are bronco II's compatible? Engine is 2.9L V6. On disassembly I found 2 meshing gears with broken teeth.
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I have a 2011 xlt extended cab with a 2.3l 4 cylinder. The truck is great... I put 120,000 miles on it in under a year.
But about a month ago the temperature gauge started malfunctioning. for what ever reason -- the truck is NOT over heating-- the gauge would increase past the "H" and then the temperature light would come on. Because the truck thinks it's overheating -- the engine goes into a "safe mode" and runs with no power. When i shut the motor off and turn it back on temperature gauge resets and the truck will run fine.
Then in another 50 or 100 miles it will do it again. Why is it doing this? I took it to the dealer here in Columbus, Ohio and the mechanic installed a new thermostat and a new "control modulator" (and a part -- not really sure what it is called) anyway, the truck is doing the same thing and the mechanic still does not know
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The problem I have is the truck won't move in o/d. If I put it in revers 1,and 2 it works. A little back ground. 4 years ago the trans went out of my 95 4.0 4x4, had it rebuilt so it has 0 miles on it. It got really cold that winter had lots of trouble getting the trans and torque converter lined up. motor went bad on me. A few months ago finally had some money to spend bought a 98 explorer sport with a 4.0 x code motor. the motor runs fine apart from an oil leak and an exhaust leak. the exhaust leak is no big deal I just haven't gotten the system tight yet.
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