Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Parking Brake Instrument Cluster Lamp Always On
Apr 2, 2017
The parking brake instrument cluster lamp is enabled by a small switch at the foot operated park brake mechanism. The switch is attached to chassis electrical ground. The switch has one wire attached to it. So when the switch is enabled it connects chassis ground to the wire therein turning on the cluster lamp. With the wire disconnected from the switch the lamp stays on. This tells me the wire is grounded somewhere. Brilliant deduction eh?
So here's my question. How/where that wire is routed? I lose sight of it approx. 2-inches from the switch where it disappears behind the brake mechanism mounting bracket. I plan to unbolt that bracket to see if that might be where the wire is being shorted to ground. But if it's not pinched there, where do I go from there?
(2001 Ranger, 4liter-2wd)
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I have 87 Ford Ranger. 2.9L 4x4. Before any tips, I have checked the fuses, I have changed the Switch for the lights and the instrument cluster. Still no luck. I don't know if there is something wrong with the wiring. But what I was plan on doing is finding out on one of the Wiring Harnesses on the back of the Cluster which wire turns on the back lights on the cluster. Everything else on the cluster works (Gauges, Highbeam indicator, all the warning sign lights). What wires are what on the wiring harnesses. I was going to just run the wire to its own switch.
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One of my bulbs sometimes doesn't come on when I turn my lights on. I actually have to hit the dashboard to get it to come on. Does it randomly. Ironically, it's been doing this ever since I pulled the instrument cluster out to change a different bulb. I don't know if I did something when taking it out or putting it back in. Anyway, what I can check to see why it's doing this? It's just one bulb that illuminates the right portion of the tachometer.
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I have a 1996 ford ranger 2.3L automatic. I need to replace the instrument cluster. I can remove all the plugs from the rear of the cluster except 1 black wire I assume is the speedo cable. It runs from the rear of the cluster down underneath the dashboard. How to remove this cable so I can replace the entire cluster?
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I bought 2000 Ranger with rear half of the frame cut and welded.
The mechanics who did this did terrible job of putting things where they belong. I rerouted wiring harness and rebuilt EVAP lines, but cannot figure out what is the correct route for parking brake cable.
Currently some part of the parking brake cable is sitting on the leaf spring. It may also be missing some mounting brackets or clips. Looking for a picture or diagram showing parking brake cable routing?
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The brake light in my instrument cluster on my 1997 F150 won't come on. I have put in 2 new bulbs.
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I have a 98 Ranger 2wd reg cab 2.3L 5sp. Recently the airbag warning light was blinking 2-7 which indicates bad lamp in passenger airbag deactivation switch. Since the lamp has no numbers or markings on it, and my repair manual has no schematic on that part, where I can find the ma, wattage or ohm rating of the lamp? Or a part number / source for a replacement lamp?
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The brake pads worn symbol has lit up in the instrument cluster on my wife's 2008 Touareg V8. The car has 33K. Per Tom Bush VW in Jacksonville, both pads and rotors must be replaced. This is without even looking at it.
Per Osteen VW also in JAX, I might not have to replace the rotors. They stated that what they have seen is that usually the rotors don't get replaced until the second visit to replace pads.
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I have a 2012 F350 XLT that came out of Canada. So of course the speedometer is in KM. (Large numbers are km and smaller numbers are mph). I am trying to find out if I can simply change out my cluster with a mph cluster???
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I have a 97 ranger 2.3L (manual transmission) and want to change the cluster to one with a tach... I have a 2000 cluster but I would like to compare the actual wiring between the two (1997/2000)... I have looked in the Ranger technical area of these forums and also did a search for "dash cluster wiring" and found no info...
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I just finished replacing the instrument panel light bulbs on my 1997 Ranger XL, 2.3L, 2WD pickup. I wanted to share how I did this. First of all, if you never have done this before, go slow and take your time removing the dash panels as they are plastic molding and break easily. Allow yourself about an hour to complete the task. You will need smaller sized hand sockets to remove the screws. The very first thing you should do is remove the negative battery cable from the battery. This way you will not risk shorting out anything electrical as well as possibly triggering the airbag in the steering wheel column.
The key piece in starting the process is to remove the radio first and then central console panel that houses the radio. It pops out very easily by gently prying it out in the four corners. Once you get that piece out remove the screws the support the lower knee panel. In order to get that piece off you will have to remove the two screws the hold the hood release lever in place. Get under the dashboard and look up as you lay looking upward near the brake pedal. Pull the hood release lever and you will see the two gold screws. Remove them. This will free up the panel on the under side. The top side of the panel will pop out if you pry it gently on the top two corners.
Next, you will see a metal panel underneath the knee panel. Remove this metal panel as well. Now you will be able to remove the instrument cluster panel piece. There are some visible screws holding this in place, remove them and gently pry the cluster panel out. Once the cluster panel cover is out you will have to actually remove the gauge cluster itself by removing the the four screw bolts that secure it in place. After the screws are out, gently work it out of the dash slowly as you will need to disconnect three electric plug harnesses in the back.
After it is unplugged and out, on the backside of the instrument cluster you will see some round, black colored thumb screw bulb housings that house the light bulb. Just twist them and turn making sure to go in the right direction. Feel it out for the direction, I cannot remember which way it turns. The bulb housings are labeled "ILL" on the circuit overlay. I recommend you replace all the bulbs as you might not want to have to do this again in the near future. Once all the bulbs are tightly seated and installed just reverse the above process for installation. This is a fairly easy job and like I said it takes about an hour. Make sure you test the lights after finishing.
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I am looking for the part number for the ABS speed sensor mounted on the rear differential for my 2000 Ranger XL 4x4 3.0 flex fuel model. I am also looking for the name of the part so I can look it up on the ford parts site. while looking I have found these names ABS speed sensor
Powertrain Control Module Speed Control Sensor
I had my truck in the shop and they did a health check, they found these codes po500 - cluster fault and the abs module fault
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My buddy has 2005 Ford Ranger, 4.0L V6, manual with 4WD. It cranks fine, shifts through gears, but it will not move. We're thinking something to do with the parking brake, but I don't have much knowledge about brake systems. A cursory inspection showed a cable without much rust, some rust on the rear drum brakes, and around the mounting where the brake cable runs into the brake drum. I can pull downward on the cable about three inches, so it doesn't seem like the cable is pulled too taut. The pressure on the brake pedal feels about normal.
(edit: something sort of important I forgot to mention, which is why I don't think it's the transmission. In neutral, we cannot push the truck. When pushing from the rear, it will rock back and forth a few inches. When pushing from the front, the truck will not budge at all with two guys pushing on it.)
What sorts of tests can we do to pin down where the problem lies? If it is the parking brake, how can we loosen it up enough to get the truck moving to a shop (or at least to the garage where we can get to the brake shoes)?
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I was pulling out of a parking lot making a sharp turn when all the sudden I lost my power steering. I have a '94 Ford Ranger manual transmission. It didn't make any sounds. I was going to try to keep adding power steering fluid to it and try to get it home to my mechanic in my hometown - but it drips constant liquid when I drive it down the street (you can see drips) so I don't think that's possible. I've read a lot on here about gear boxes failing, but would this cause it to leak even if the truck wasn't running? (the puddle builds quickly when its just sitting there, engine off). I took it to a mechanic (I don't have tools), and they said they can't say anything for sure until they look around, it could be seals or a new gear box.
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Today (1/11/2015), after I had just finished filling up the tank, I opened the car door and since the key was in the ignition the buzzer was sounding. However after 2 or 3 "beeps" it stopped and the door was still open. When I got home and pulled in the garage, I shut the car off, left the keys in the ignition and opened the door and there was no "beep," also the door ajar lamp on the instrument panel was out. I opened the trunk and the light came, then I opened passenger side door and the light came on. Does that mean that the switch on the driver's side door is bad? If so, is that a fire hazard?
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Exactly where the parking lamp trailer tow relay is located on a 2002 F-250 Super Duty 4X4 CC 7.3L?
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I just replaced all 5 of my instrument cluster bulbs in my 1998 f150. Everything looks nice and bright now that everything is replaced but around the top of the speedometer the light is dim. Is this normal for this instrument cluster or could there be a bad bulb or a light blockage? It's frustrating to go through effort to get to the cluster and find out after it's put back together that there's a bad bulb or something.
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I have a 94 ranger 4.0 4x4. One winter while 4 wheeling I happened to get into some snow that just kept getting deeper until i got stuck, So i had to back out, after doing that i noticed that the brake light and the abs light were on, then for about a year after that it would just come on and go off. For the past 6 months it has stayed off until you press the brake all the way down to the floor , then it comes on. If you shut off the truck and restart it it will be off until you press the brakes all the way down again. if you get the light to come on and drive with it like that, then when you shut it off and turn it on it will still be on and wont come off until the truck cools down. there is nothing wrong with the brakes, new calipers, new pads, and no leaks that i've noticed. I was told the rotors look a little thin though. I don't know if this is related, but it seems when you start the truck after driving it with the light on, it will idle rough or even stall. but after you rev it 3-4 times it will run smoothly.
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Of course the month my inspection is due, my e-brake light comes on, and I have no clue why. I use my ebrake religiously.
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2001 Ford Escape 3.0L XLT V6 : I disconnected, then reconnected the negative battery lead (to reset the 'learning' after changing tranny-oil), BUT it killed my instrument cluster gauges (temp, revs, speedo, fuel and the LCD shift display!). All fuses checked/interchanged, all seem ok. Pulled out instrument cluster, all ok behind. I tried the self-test (pushing the trip button in while ignition key at 1st position), nothing, but it may not exist on this car. I tried the battery negative lead again, still nothing. I am wondering if there is a simple electronic 'reboot' somewhere (or a relay to change). The car drives fine, but no speed/rev/fuel/temp/mileage/shift position info!
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My 2006 F150 instrument cluster, including the radio, will randomly go out while driving (although the LED display on the radio will come on if the menu button is pressed indicating that there is power). Everything will come back on within a few seconds to a few minutes. You can get everything to come back on immediately by pressing the odometer reset button. If power is being lost, why does the odometer reset button correct the issue?
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