Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 F350 - Grinding From Front Axle When In Gear / Under Load
Aug 22, 2013
The issue is with my 2000 F350 crew longbed V10. Other than a BTS trans put in a little over a year ago, and FoMoCo motorsports headers, the whole truck is bone stock. Oh, it has that fantastic auto-hub thing with the fake locking hubs and the little switch on the dash (I'd love to convert it to a manual shifter...?). 174k on chassis, so things need to be done, 40k on engine, 3k on BTS 4r100.
Yesterday I was running around town, made a stop, and when I started moving again got a loud grinding from the front axle. Thought maybe I'd picked up a rock in a caliper or something, so I jumped out and checked everything, no joy. Moved forward, there it is again. No vibration, but loud enough (or telegraphing enough) to hear clearly in the cab. Let the truck roll forward, popped in to neutral, noise fades away. Back in to drive, there it is. So, now I know it's trans/t-case/driveshaft/related. I recently put new vacuum lines in, checked all the connections, and pulled, cleaned and lubed the hubs.
And since the trans is a nearly new BTS that is working just find, I'm narrowing the search to the hubs, drive shaft, t-case.
Get home (noise abates above 30mph, or everything else drowns it out), crawl under, and find the front driveshaft is locked. Ok, stuck hub? Pull out both the fake locking hubs, and now the shaft turns. I can turn each front axle by hand at the u-joint, and I kinda hear a faint grinding on the right side (will bad needles make noise only under a load from the trans and not coasting in neutral?), and when I swing the drive shaft around the left axle moves, right doesn't, etc etc.
I'm going to pull the drive shaft today and check the U joints, and drive a bit to see if the noise is still there, but I am thinking I might have some bad needles on the pax side axle...
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I am in the process of replacing the front hub seals so my ESOF works again. I tested both front hubs with a mityvac and neither one of them holds any vacuum at all. All the lines are good, and the pump and solenoid seem to be working fine.
I have the driver's side apart and I have a couple of questions.
What's a good source for the vacuum seal? I've checked rockauto, riff raff, and diesel o-rings. Diesel o-rings has it, but the description says it's only for 2003+ Excursions so I didn't order it.
There is no yellow o-ring anywhere on the hub. I assume that someone forgot to put this o-ring back in and this is why I don't have ESOF? I guess what I really want to know is that there isn't some 2000-specific thing where there's no o-ring, right?
After I got the hub off, I spun it around on my workbench and it doesn't sound good at all. It makes a slight metallic grinding noise about 1/2 way around. I assume this isn't normal? AFAIK these are all original parts - but the missing o-ring means to me that someone already had it apart.
There was a lot of water intrusion and rusty colored grease but nothing was dry, the needle bearings were intact and the shaft isn't scored at all where the bearing rides. I'm hoping new seals and good cleaning and it should be good as new. And then it's off to the next side.
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Tried converting the 10 lug to 8x6.5 and didn't work. so now i found a 2000 F450SD 8x225mm monotube front axle but just got my hands on a '99 F350 4.10 DRW axle 8x170mm....can I bolt the 8x170 hubs (spacers as its a dually front axle) up front? not sure if the bolt pattern on the rotor will work...
I was thinking adapters up front as i can widen the front track abit if i had to, but dont want to go 170mm to 225 adapters out back, as i think its too much weight for those... I will have a front 90 F-superduty 10 lug set up....
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I am getting ready to put new axle shaft u-joints in my 2008 F350 (they are shot, they actually rattle on my rough roads). While I am at it I figure I will grease the front wheel brg cartridge, replace the needle brg that is inside the cartridge. I am also afraid I will the axle shaft vacuum seal. I don't want to go to ford an get raped, diesel O-rings doesn't have parts for the newer pickups and I don't want to get junk from the parts houses. Where I can get these parts for a reasonable price? What the best brands are? Are they the same parts as the earlier super duties? I know the lock out is different.
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I replaced both front bearings, calipers, brake pads, now I have a grinding noise on the left side front stops sometimes when you step on the brakes? 1999 F350 ...
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I got a 2001 f350 got a noise in my left front wheel i know its not the wheel bearings, it only makes the noice when the locking hub is unlocked i did jack the the truck up and spun the wheel got a faint grinding noises form what seems like the locking hub so my question is bad locking hub or needle bearing holding the axle shaft??
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I bought a 2000 F250 V10 Super Cab. Oddly after a few weeks it has grown on me. There has been a clunking noise out of the right front over bumps. I traced it to a bad axle bearing. The u joint moves up and down about a 1/2 inch. Besides pulling the hub/bearing assembly out and removing the axle are there any surprises getting the old bearing out?
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My 2000 ford f350 will start and then dies on me when i try to put in gear. I changed air n fuel filter. Adding oil i noticed the stick was still reading dry. Noticed a big oil spot under the hood. What should i try to do? Do not want to put in shop cause every time she goes in I come out broke.
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2001 f350 4x4 dually 7.3 powerstroke, I recently replaced the hub assembly, stub shaft and seal, u joint, ball joints on the front drivers side and now periodically the truck makes a grinding growling vibration coming from front drivers side and stops after hitting a bump...
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I recently purchased a 2000 F350 4wd, it's mainly used for plowing my driveway, and hauling larger items. I can truly say I love this truck. When I got it, it was in pretty rough shape, but slowly I've been bringing it back to life.
However, I have this loud front end rattling sound I can't seem to locate. Quick background the truck is 4wd with a v10 in it, and it has 215k miles on it, poorly maintained, so everything is suspect. Only new parts are all new brakes and new u-joints everywhere.
So back to the noise, it's most noticeable whenever I hit a small bump or dip at lower speeds, but the noise is still there at higher mph as well. It's loud and literally sounds like the whole front end will fall off, its a definite rattle, doesn't seem to be from one side or the other, best I can describe is in front of the firewall at it sounds like something is very loose.
But when I crawl underneath the truck, I don't see anything loose, the shocks, look OK, the sway bar links seem to be connected. IDK what else to look for, 4wd works fine and doesn't seem to alter the noise any when engaged.
Truck recently passed inspection, and no mention of anything being loose or worn was mentioned. I'm kinda at a loss, but the sound is so loud and noticeable I feel like it should be obvious as to whats loose underneath.
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I have read the older posts here on the super duty ford 4x4 system. At 60,000 miles I noticed what sounds like a gear or bearing noise, or even a whining noise like you would hear from mud grip tires, coming from the front end area, while driving back from Kentucky to Georgia. I have quiet running street tires on this pickup.
I have a 2004 F350 crew cab XL, automatic, 4x4, limited slip axles, 430 gearing and a V10. This truck has always been extremely quiet on the highway. This noise I described above has increased and the truck now has 70,000 miles. I have the factory 4x4 dash switch in my truck cab for the 4x4 engagement. I always thought the dash switch engaged and disengaged the transfer case, and locked or unlocked the automatic hubs.
The service guy at the dealer now tells me that the dash switch only locks and unlocks the front hubs, and the front drive shaft and front differential are engaged full time. So, after checking my tires for defects, and for any play or bearing noise in my wheel bearings, I am looking at pulling the drive shaft out keep the front differential from turning, to determine if I have a bad bearing in the front axle assembly.
Now I read some of the posts here, and they say that with the dash switch in "2 wheel drive", the transfer case should be disengaged and the front drive shaft and front axle should not be turning at all. What is turning up front with the 4x4 disengaged on the dash switch ? I'm afraid to drive my truck out of town now and I need to isolate this issue and get it repaired. This has been a great truck and it's very reliable.
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2000 F350. 4x4, V10. 153,xxx miles. Here's the story. Whenever I hit a little bump in the road, I get a vibration directly under my feet and in the gas pedal, NOT in the steering. It will go away pretty quick or when I hit another bump. It only happens when the front driveshaft is not spinning. Hubs locked in in 2WD, it doesn't vibrate. Hubs unlocked and in 4x4 High it doesn't vibrate.
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I want to install a new front drive shaft in my 2000 F350. I have the new one, and it has a big nut and it is threaded for length adjustment. My old one has a rubber boot which is missing from the new one. I plan on using red locktite but I do not know the torque specs on the front universal caps. Should I take it to my mechanic? I've never owned a 4x4 before.
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My front passenger leaf spring just broke on my 2000 f-350. My front springs are T code, but I was wondering if a could replace the broken one with a code X spring as a temp fix until I get a leaf spring replacement delivered?
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I was having a ticking problem with the engine under load so I went ahead and did my manifold gaskets. I had a new 5.4 put in my 02 f350 last winter, and at that time I also installed gibson shorty headers. The tech had to plug the egr port with a pipe plug. But any ways, I pulled the headers last month and I used Percy's aluminum header gaskets. I also took the time to wire wheel all of the flanges and the mating surfaces. The one on the ball and socket flange was leaking on the passenger side, so I permanently sealed it with some 1800* epoxy.
The leak seemingly went away for a week or so, but it has returned. I sprayed down all of the mating surfaces with soapy water, but I can't find the leak. It only happens when accelerating or when i downshift to go uphill. So, at my wits end, I went to try and retorque my spark plugs. I've done half of them so far. Haven't driven it yet, but i was curious as to others thoughts on the subject. This leak cannot be heard at idle, nor at any RPM while in park or neutral. It is only apparent when driving. Definitely sounds like an exhaust leak to me.
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1999 F350 7.3 Super Duty surges when going uphill with a load. The only time we drive it is when towing the horse trailer - also has a camper on.
The truck doesn't physically surge, just the RPM gauge goes up and down and along with it a humming noise.
Also, What conditions should I engage the towing button on the end of the gear shift? I've heard several answers. Should it be engaged when towing or off?
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What exactly does the sensor on the rear axle do? 08' f350. I know it's a speed sensor of some sort, but what does it do or control exactly.
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My 2015 F-350 Super Duty has a noticeable vibration between 5 and 15 mph when accelerating with my 5th wheel. The 5th wheel is heavy--around 14000 pounds. The pin weight is heavy--around 3000 pounds. The Owner's Manual says on page 191 "When driving with a trailer or payload, a slight vibration or shudder may be present due to the increased payload weight..." (This was brought to my attention by my dealer.)
Seeing the thousands of F-250 and F-350 Fords pulling 5th wheels out there on the road, I wonder how many have this "slight vibration or shudder" and what they have done about it.
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I'm trying to find to rear axle ratio on my 2001 F-350 dually and the axle code seems to be missing.
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Putting in a locking axle to replace there non locking axle? Have a 2015 f350. And found a electric locking for a great price. Can this swap be done?
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I have begun to notice a vibration when I am in first gear starting out with a bit of a load. The vibration goes away as I gain speed and the load reduces. None at any of the higher gears. If I take off real easy and allow the truck to gain speed without pushing it, the vibration does not exist. The truck is the one outlined in my signature. It is equipped with a 3 speed auto with overdrive. I am thinking this could be a U-Joint that might be starting to go out.
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