Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 F350 - Extreme Uneven Wear On Rear Pads
Mar 8, 2017
Have a 2001 F350 7.3 4X4 with single wheels in rear. Started hearing brakes noise and decided to change both front and rear pads. Front had almost half the pads left. Rear on drivers side had about half the pads left. The passenger side metal to metal on the inboard pad and about half the pad on the outboard side. The slides on the caliper were a little sluggish but moved freely. Don't think there is enough to have them turned so will have to replace the rotors. Why this would happen. Could the caliper get stuck? It was easy enough to compress with a C clamp.
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I only hear it at low speeds, but I guess that's to be expected. I've heard a similar noise before with other cars/trucks, but I can't recall what causes it. Just looking on tips for where to start looking with the front end parts or wheel/caliper assembly.
Also, but not sure it's related, had a lot of front end wobble when I applied the brakes coming down steep hills last week while pulling a big, but empty, gooseneck trailer. I assumed warped rotors, but later, after I had picked up my load, it quit doing it, albeit I had started babying the brakes. Still, there was one instance of very hard braking and it didn't do it at all, but that was on straight pavement.
It's almost as if having that empty trailer and/or going down a steep hill caused it, and not anything on the truck. But the rubbing sound started before that wobbling. Whatcha think?
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2016 F-350 Lariat Ultimate with Tail Gate Step: After returning the step inside the tail gate and closing the tail gate, the cap does not sit evenly across the top of the tail gate. As the gate locks, the cap "pops up" on the right side and correspondingly moves down on the left side. Truck was purchased on 11-04-2015 and this defect was not noticed during walk around.
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I'm putting new brake pas on my front and I want to know what is the best type to put on there. I ave a 2006 F-350 Dually.
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I'm trying to find to rear axle ratio on my 2001 F-350 dually and the axle code seems to be missing.
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I have a new to me 1999 f550 w/ 7.3 and I have installed an aluminum service body with a crane on the passenger side bins. The crane itself weights about 650lbs plus the steel frame it is mounted on (superstructure in the aluminum service body). I'm concerned about the uneven load on the rear suspension. It does sag slightly to the passenger side - guessing 1" - I will measure tomorrow.
1) Should I be concerned?
2) What can I do to correct it? (without just adding weight to counter balance it).
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I just thought I'd mention this observed wear of brake pads...I just replaced all 4 up front after about 128k miles...
@ 114k miles it was observed that 1 of the 2 pads of each front wheel had worn significantly more than the other (the inner more than the outer pad IIRC)....my expert mechanic rotated the two and I got another 14k miles out of them...I could have gotten a LOT more had they been rotated @ 50-80k miles.
I don't know if this is extraordinary, or more typical than I'd have thought...or a function of (failing?) calipers, or just how these (MY) calipers work, or just my driving habits (though I've owned the car for only 30k of the 128k miles on the odometer)....but....
In my case the new pads will get a 50k mile inspection and possible rotation if there is uneven wear between outer and inner pads....
I'd recommend that pads be inspected for (uneven) wear at one of the scheduled tire rotations....rotating the pads isn't much of a job, but it might be something for you to consider to get the most miles from the pads (that and better braking too perhaps).
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I'm gonna replace my front and rear brake pads. Any tips? Do I need to pull the rotor off and clean the axel? I've watched a couple of youtube videos but they leave me with a few answers. I have all the tools, what kinda lubricants will i need? Any recommendations? I hoping I can do a flawless job without and squealing...
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I am replacing my front brakes on my 2001 f250 and I replaced the brake pad retaining clips and now I can not get the new pads in place because of the new clips. what am I doing wrong????
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I went out getting firewood in my 2001 F350 4X4 6.8l V10 auto . Backed up to the slash pile, put the truck in 4X4 Low and went to work.
When we finished I flipped the switch to 2WD, but the transfer case would not dis-engage and the IDIOT LIGHT on the dashboard stays on 4X4 Low... I can't get the truck out of 4X4 Low. I turned the hubs from auto to lockand its still stuck in low range.
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2001 f350 w/v10, 6.8. the fender mounted starter solenoid went out so I replaced it, while doing so I also replaced the battery (previous owner had a marine/rv battery installed, I purchased the truck a couple months ago). after replacement the truck still will not start. when attempting to start it barely if at all cranks, long story short I was going to have the starter tested but in the course of removing it the terminal posts broke off so I ended up replacing it too. The truck still would not start or really crank so I dug down with the expectation of finding a bad ground someplace. cleaned up the ground points. Now I have the battery on a charger awaiting it to finish recharging. Something that is likely/remotely likely to be causing the engine not to crank over and start that I have missed?
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My abs light is on. The guy I bought it from said he thought it was the sensor but who knows. Is there a way to test the sensors to see if they are working? Also can any other possible issues to look for? 2001 f350 7.3 xlt...
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What exactly does the sensor on the rear axle do? 08' f350. I know it's a speed sensor of some sort, but what does it do or control exactly.
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I have a 2016 F350 super cab and I can't figure out how to remove the rear head rest. Short of taking out my sawsall and cutting them off. How to get them off...
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I have a 2011 F350 with camper package (didn't want it). When I drive on a bumpy road (without 5th wheel), the truck suspension does not absorb the shock. The ruts just throws the truck side to side. Really hard, so I can't go on a dirt, rough road. On one bump it poped off my rear tire cap.
My problem may be with the camper package trying to keep the truck from going back and forth.
There is a 7/16 inch steal rod going from the truck bed, around the differential, and back up to the other side of the truck. Is that the rear stablizer rod?? Can I disconnect it? What would be
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My grandfathers 99 F350, started suddenly, do not know if it was while sitting or while driving. Its more of a stream than anything else. Coming from the rear, cannot see where, appears to be toward the vee of the engine, not inside the bellhousing. The firewall insulation is damp from coolant. Doesnt start until engine starts warming up.
Is there something commonly replaced back there? Didnt want to yank the intake in 20* weather for exploratory surgery. Is not the heater hoses. Idk if the EGRs are cooled on these, thats about my only idea other than freeze plug, coolant tests good down to -20ish, hasnt been below zero in weeks (prior to leak). Not familiar with any of the modular engines.
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I have a 2014 F350 (specs in my signature) and I want to change the 4" rear blocks out for F250 2" blocks to lower the rear of the truck.
Looks like a fairly straight forward replacement but I have a few questions.
Will the shocks need to be replaced? I do eventuality want to replace them as the stock ones are not that great but I only have 2500 miles on them.
When I do order new shocks for my truck after the changing the blocks do I order shocks for a F250?
I would like to go OEM parts for this but I am having trouble finding the blocks and u-bolts that I need. What are the part numbers for these?
Anything else I should know about to do this swap?
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Bought a new truck and had the dealer put a leveling kit (readylift 2.5" kit) on it with bigger tires. The rear now sits lower than the front. Any way to fix this? I want the truck to sit level as much as possible loaded and unloaded. New 2016 F350 KR
I added a pic ....
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Bought truck drove it 240 miles on interstate 80 mph no problems---2001 F350 4x4 auto. Next morning backed out drive and trans fluid trail 6 inches wide. Didn't leak in forward gears (at that time) added fluid and drive to town shifted fine.
Next day gonna drive 150 miles to check out leak. (Son was driving it) said it wouldn't go over 40 mph. Revving high. Hauled truck here on trailer and pulled tranny. Rear housing cracked just before 4x4 adapter. (This trans was rebuilt 10k miles ago) ..
Got used 4R100 from friend who replaced only because he built one for his truck. It was shifting fine etc when pulled 6 months ago. Used cracked trans TC and installed. Test drive no 4th or OD. Pulled trans put TC that came with trans in. Still no OD. Put on scanner while driving. Trans is being commanded to shift to OD but not up shifting. 45mph at 2400rpm.
Pulled plug to solenoid pack inside trans ( this should make trans default to OD / limp mode) still no OD and won't go over 45.
Pulled OD button checked wires inside steering column. All looks great. Not even a heavy rub mark.
Should I replace the coil pack in trans? Where do I go from here? Again this trans was known to be good when pulled 6 months ago.
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It's a 2001 F-350 Crew cab short bed. Got it from the second owner which had a large file from the original owner on documentation and maintenance records. Truck has 280k, tranny about 80k. Question I have is, I kinda thought it would "feel" more powerful then it does. Temp got to about 35f last night after work and it cranked for about 15-20 sec before it started (yes I let the "Wait to start" light go out).
Then pulling out of work it would hardly get out of its own way. Does this sound normal? When it is warmed up it goes ok, but still I figured when the turbo winds up it would feel a bit "peppier". I get its a diesel and not a hot rod but I was expecting a bit more pep.
MODS on the truck that I can tell: AFE cold intake, 5"? exhaust turbo back, about 4" lift. Stock PCM. In cab controlled rear air bags, nice deck with back up camera.
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I have a 2001 F 350 with a V10 it keeps coming back as a misfire on cylinder 3 and 4.. I replaced all of the coils and plugs and pigtails I have even swapped out the coil packs from side to side and I still keep coming back with the same code. The truck has a bad check around 1500 RPM with a load on the motor mainly doesn't in overdrive and first starting off...
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