Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 - Shut Off After Running About One Hour
Mar 30, 2014
2002 Ford F350 7.3...
After replacing the Glow Plug Module and the cam sensor. I have no codes on the scanner. However, after driving the truck for one hour or two it stalled and after cool down about a while t started and stalled after hot. Now I been reading lots of info and this is what I got so far.
Flow Sensor
Fuel injector control
Fuel pump
And one person said that he change the wire harnesses for glow plug on top of the head covers?
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I just bought myself an '02 F-350XL 4X4 with a 7.3l, love the truck, but I've got an issue. When you first start the truck and the chimes go through their little ditty, about 3 seconds later they go off again.. but this time they chime five times and cycle five times, so a total of 25 times over a certain period.. seems to do it about every half hour, could this be related to the clock somehow? The truck is bare bones basic, XL trim level Reg cab, Auto with tilt, cruise and A/C, oh and the premium stereo...
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I have a 2002 f250 SD v10 4x4. I had a ground wire break fixed that know noon of my instruments work. Dash lights up but nothing moves. Pulse my parking lights stay on when the truck is shut off or when I turn lights on then off. I have to disconnect the battery to get hem to shut off.
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2002 7.3 running rough.
This is my symptoms : On cold start ups engine runs rough. Idling it knocks worse than normal on the road she runs really rough. If I get on here she smooths out ( but still runs rough a bit) but normal driving at between 1200 -2000 rpm she runs so rough it shakes the whole truck. It will do this until she gets up to operating temp & then it goes away. The more she warms up the better she runs.
Once up to temp she will run perfectly. The colder it is outside the worse it is & the longer it takes for it to go away. I have replaced the valve cover gaskers and new harnesses, new glow plugs. Still same problems. I have AE and one time it gave me a #2 cylinder code. have not been able to repete this code. What to check next.
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I Have a 2002 F 250 That I recently changed the fuel pump. and now I'm having a tail light problem. when i start the truck, my tail lights and plate lights comes on (dim). if i turn my head lights on the truck stalls out. if i step on the brake or put the truck in reverse it stalls out. if i put it in drive it runs just fine. i checked my fuses and relays and the problem is still there even when the relay and fuse for the lights are out. when i turn the truck off all the light go out.
can't seem to find any info on this problem anywhere.
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Just bought a 2002 F-250 Crew Cab. It has the factory style running boards with the lights at each end. None of them where working so I changed the bulbs and still nothing. I decided to follow the wiring to make sure everything was good and found that neither one of the boards are plugged into anything. They both have about a 2' loomed harness with a plug on the end of each board and it is zipped tied to the frame. But there is no wiring nearby to plug it into, I have checked everywhere. I can run extra wiring no problem if I can find out where they are supposed to plug at.
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Got my 02 f350 stuck in the mud a while back and had to get a deuce and a half to pull me out (F250 couldnt do it). Anyway since then my front parking/running lights don't work.
-I have checked the voltage at the bulb socket....nada
-I have of course checked the fuse and its fine (checked ALL fuses)
-ALL other running lights are working including top clearance lights, dually fender lights, etc.
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I have an 02 f250 V10 with a rough idle (90K Miles). It's not horrible but it's obviously not running perfect. Everything seems ok when I am up and driving, especially at freeway speeds. I recently noticed that if the truck is in park and I run the RPM's to 1500 or 2K and quickly let off the gas it will die. It never throws any codes. So far I have replaced the IAC Valve, fuel filter, O2 Sensors, PCV valve, cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced the air filter. Plugs and boots were replaced 5K miles ago. Fuel trim levels on both banks are running around -3.1 to positive 3.5 based on what the computer is telling me. Also according to the computer the vacuum sits steady around 25 at idle (+ or - .2). I don't have a manual vacuum gauge, just relying on the computer. I've also gone around to every plug and disconnected both the injector wire and the COP wire and they all seem to equally affect the idle as well as the fuel trim levels.
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I have an 02 f250 5.4. I just did the intake manifold. I also changed the spark plugs and the valve cover gasket. Following this I drained the oil and filled it with fresh oil.
It started right up but it felt like the engine was really vibrating and running rough. The check engine light than came on. I don't have one of those tools to diagnose it.
What could be wrong?
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My truck has been doing this for a while now but it has progressively gotten worse from about three months ago when I went through some deep water. I don't believe it had to much to do with the water, I just think that the water is what didn't deal the situation and lead to the problem becoming more prevalent. But continuing, yesterday it got down into the high 20's and my engine started acting up (rumbling coughing, surging while at/leaving complete stops) and then it finally through a code for once and I head over to the neighborhood AutoZone expecting to get a lean code (because when the engine is acting up really badly I can unplug the fourth cylinder fuel injector without the engine acting any differently) but instead I received the p1152 (bank two lack of switching (rich)) code....
At this point I believe it is a faulty fuel pressure regulator, but without a good diagnostic obd2 reader or a fuel pressure gauge I'm not sure what to do. I'm currently in college, money is low, and I'm trying to take an accurate shot at the part that needs to be replaced so that I don't have to buy more than one part. Of course AutoZone says o2 sensor but I changed both about five months ago.. I've been chasing this diagnosis around for way too long now. (It's on a 2002 ford f250 5.4l super duty)
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2002 f350 5.4L
No rear running lights or brake lights
No third brake lights
Headlights work
No signals or hazard.
I have power to the multifunction switch when I use a jumper wire to bypass the switch I can make the lights come on depending on which slot I put it in. I replaced the multifunction switch twice just to see if I got a new bad one the first time, but to no avail. I cant run my truck a night without the lights.
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2002 F-250 5.4l 4x4 ... I am getting a P0171 code only, with strong fuel smell. No P0174 code. So it has to be something effecting just the one bank? Sprayed engine with starting fluid, no charge in idle. Replaced upstream O2 sensor, no change. Truck was running fine, and then just started this all at once.
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This last April I was towing my trailer back from camping approx 125 miles when I detected a loss of power and a slight miss. I managed to make it home. It wasn't until I made it home that the engine finally started coding. Miss on start, a couple of cylinders missing and output shaft speed sensor circuit failure. So naturally, I decided to do what I felt needed done anyways, change all coils and plugs. Oddly the problem got worse to the point where I almost didn't make it home after test driving it, it kept stalling out and was difficult to keep running.
After some research and advice from others, I started replacing some components; MAF sensor,IAC valve, output shaft speed sensor. Nothing. In fact now the truck wont move, I start it up it idles a little rough, but then I put it into gear and with in seconds she shuts her self down. I've replaced the fuel filter, checked the fuel pressure and it is in specs. I've now had it towed to two mechanics neither of which have any solution. They've put expensive computers up to it and still nothing. I really do not know what to do at this point. Lastly the only code that continues to come up is P0720, output shaft speed sensor circuit failure, I really miss my truck!
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Got issues with speedo bouncing back and forth after going over 80 km an hour that and under is steady changed speed sensor replaced speedo with another had read about sensors brands not working with speedo unit had put Napa brand in so wondering if it's just the sensor...
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My 2008 f 250 with 75k on it is making some unreal noises at 45 to 65 miles per hour. Almost sounds like someone is tapping on the top of the cab.
2008 standard cab with utility body
2 wheel drive
75,000 miles
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Did a 1600 mile trip and noticed that the cruise 2x would just shut off. Most of the time tho it ran fine. Every once in a while when I would stop for gas and turn off the motor the cruise would not come on at all when we headed back out. Sometimes when it did this it would not come back on till I shut off the truck and then restart. Other times it would work after 20 or so miles.
When it did shut off or not come on, I would try turning it on and off, mashing the buttons HARD, What to do? Or should I just take it to the dealer and be done with it?
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Strange thing happened today while driving down the highway while towing my camper. I was going down the road with the cruise control set at 65 mph and I looked at the dash and I had no tach, speedometer or gauges. The dash was blank. The radio was still playing and I was just coasting to a stop. When I finally pulled to the side of the road, I put the truck in park and turned the key to the off position. Turned the key and it started right up and ran fine for the next 2 hours on my trip. I had been towing for about 3 hours before the truck shut off. Don't want this to happen again as I'm towing back home from FL to CT.
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Ok, I have had this problem a couple of times before, generally when it is wet and cold outside and the result is a very dead battery. The heat/ac blower fan continues to run after the truck has been shut off and the key removed. I believe that it even comes on after the truck has been shut off. What could be causing this?
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Okay so I have an e99 f250 7.3 the problem all started went I hit a puddle the other day. My horn started going crazy and wouldn't shut off so I had to pull the fuse and relay. After that I found another problem, all my dash lights,headlights and running lights will not turn off unless I pull the battery terminals, it does not matter which way the headlight switch is it can be on or off and they stay on. I did find it though if I pull the negative terminals and put them back on the lights stay off if I turn the switch on and try to turn the lights back off with the switch they stay stuck on again untill I pull the terminals what could be the problem I've looked at every fuse and can't find the probelm.
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I already reset inertia switch but it still wont start is there a way to by pass the inertia switch...
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So I went to start my truck today (1999 f250 5.4), it hasn't ran in a couple days due to -38C weather. When I started it today, it started rough(understandable in this weather) but my abs light and brake light came on and will not shut off. It ran fine the last time I used it, but now the lights came on. What may have happened.
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