Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 F250 - Doors Squeaking
Dec 2, 2003
I posted a reply her a couple of weeks ago on how I fixed my '03 SD's squeaky doors. I went to AutoZone and bought 32 feet of 5/8 inch self-adhesive rubber (not foam) weatherstripping and mounted it around the outside edges of both doors, starting at the top. Presto - squeaks are gone, there are no more drafts and road noise is reduced a little. (I may remove the stripping I put on the side edges of the doors because I think the culprit is actually the rigid polyethylene bumper strip they've mounted on the upper door jam).
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03 F250. 5.4 2v ... I purchased it a month ago.
Squeak under the hood. It appeared to squeak in relation to the movement of the tensioner......simple right? Replaced Tensioner and Belt..... Still squeaking.
AC not working at all. Compressor never kicking on.....replaced compressor, accumulator, and orifice tube. AC works now!.....squeak still there....
Notice fan wobbling.....shut truck off.....fan clutch shot... replaced....STILL SQUEAKING!!
Obvious answer....sound still on that side of the engine....Idler pulley....I just replaced it and the dang truck is still squeaking!!!!!!!!!
All that's left is the harmonic balancer, alternator, and power steering pump.......What could it be?
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I've replaced the brakes that weren't in that bad of shape anyways and even replaced one of the rotors as it was under federal regulations. I've even put the brake squeak goop on the back of the pads and it keeps squeaking and squeaking and it's driving me insane. Am i missing something here? I don't here any other super duty's squeaking on the road.
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I have a "rattle/knock" that I think is coming from the doors on my 2000 F250 SD extended cab. The rattle is only there when the truck is going over bumps....especially closly spaced bumps. My buddy has the exact truck and it does not rattle.
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1999 F250 extended cab back doors won't open. The passenger side stopped opening right after I purchased it a few months back (168K miles). I removed the door panels and reached my hand in feeling around. I know the latch releases are activated by cables but cannot figure out how they work. While feeling and pulling on the cables one became dislodged from its holder. The driver's side stopped opening yesterday . Do the cables stretch, break, or what? Or are the holders the issue? Is there an illustration that shows how the cables are run and connected?
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I bought a 2012 F250 6.2L 4wd recently, truck came from Canada, Noticed a sticky residue along button of doors, around hinges, inside front and side edges of hood, some of the goo is in the A/C coil, doesn't have much odor, maybe oil, comes off with degreaser, doesn't look like it came from engine as that is clean, could this be something they spray on the roads up there? Doesn't seem to harm anything just messy if you rub up against it?
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So to start at the beginning.... Traveled across Canada East to West towing 11000lb travel trailer, no problem. Have used 4x4 in a few campsites to pull out of a pitch without spinning the wheels and causing damage to the site when it has been really wet. All good.
Got to Banff in December and the town was an Ice rink, engaged 4x4 and all good. Crossed the Rockies and the 4x4 starts making grinding noises. Up and down some mountains and squeaking, grinding noise then clunking.
I have manual hubs, disengage and the noise all goes away. Engage 1 hub and no noise. Engage both hubs, noise back.
I bought some needle bearings and went to swap them. Got hubs apart and they look good. No scoring on the drive shafts. They are not dry, but as I have them open, repack them with grease anyway.
Do more research... Remove ABS sensor and repack main bearings with grease. (broke one sensor pulling it out, too cold plastic brittle oops). Still clunking noises.
The universal joints look good, doesn't appear to be any play in them. However, the axle seal (knuckle seal) (F81Z-3254-CB) does move around a lot in it's metal casing. It is tight on the shaft, but with the hub off, I can move it in and out, and move it side to side. If I had ESOF hubs I guess they would not be locking as I'm sure there would be no vacuum in there!
Question is then, would this seal be allowing the universal joint to wobble under load in 4x4 mode? Would this wobble be the cause of the rumble? As it is labelled as a seal and not a bearing, I wouldn't of thought this would have been a loaded point, and the weight would have been taken by the associated bearings and it could be run without this seal? But if it is not this, then I'm still looking for a clue as to what is making the rumble....
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I have been looking into this for a while and can't really come up with anything. I'm wanting to do away with the wood grain on the doors and replace it with something like brushed aluminum, carbon fiber, or heck even just black....anything besides wood grain! Btw this is on a 2003 ccsb.
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I have a 2003 f-250 s/d 7.3 ltr. 4x4, it is lifted 4" with 20 " pro comp tires and an auto tranny. I am getting between 10 and 11 mpg. whether pulling my 26 ft. trailer or just driving around town. I was told that is not good mpg. What I can do to improve the fuel economy or is 10 mpg normal.
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I bought the truck today (cheap) know it had this issue, oil in coolant no coolant in oil, ATF was not apparent on dip stick I'm told truck over heats.
2003 f250
5.4
400,000 + miles
I saw no bubbles in coolant tank when running... Need some things to check to narrow it down....
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I have an '03 F250 Super Cab, 7.3L PSD, 4WD. I've started getting a large vibration between 40 and 60 mph. Started after driving on the PA highways towing a trailer with a car and hitting several deep pot holes.
I have had the wheels balanced, rotated, balanced a second time by a different shop and had them perform an alignment - Still No change.
The garage I took it to said the hubs were shot so I had them replaced - supposedly with Moog, lifetime warranty hubs. Still - No Change.
The tie rods and steering linkages are a year old, so unless something was damaged (visually, they look good, and feel tight) it probably isn't them.
I replaced the ball joints around 80,000 miles and now the truck has 155,000 miles. They appear to be ok, with maybe just a little movement in the Passenger side upper.
If there is any movement at all in the ball joint, will it cause a vibration?
I plan to rotate my full size spare through all 4 corners this weekend to eliminate the possibility of a bent rim.
I have another set of ball joints and seals on order which should arrive next week. Probably next weekend's project.
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My '03 F250 has a rusted bed. Both Rear fenders have it and if i didn't have a bed liner the bed would be rusted through. Where i can get a new take off or used bud decent bed? Any color doesn't matter just needs to be the short bed not the 8ft one.
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I have an 03 f250 5.4l that I've been having some problems with. When the engine is cold it will drive fine and everything. When it warms up, if I go to put it in gear it just dies right away. Why?
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My 2003 F-250 (gas V8) will always start right up when it is cold. However, once it has warmed up, it often will not start. Cranks fine, but not even wanting to start (like someone pulled all the plug wires) and has left me stranded until I wait for 3+ hours for it to cool back down. Doesn't trip the check engine light, but seems to be due to the engine being hot. What this could be?
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I just got 03 f250 with 6.0 and when shifting has a weird surge/lag thing happening. Reminds me a little of the old 7.3 surge when it was just started on a cold day. Seems to be worse in higher gears.
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Have a 2003 5.4 F-250 ext cab 4x4. The speedo went crazy of a couple days, now it is pegged when off at 100mph. When I drive down the road it goes down to like 70mph. I replace the speed sensor on the rear axle with no success. Also the airbag light came home on the way to work today. Not sure if that's connected or not.
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I have noticed that the cooling fan is coming on quite often lately. The first I noticed was yesterday when I was towing our boat up to the lake. However, this didn't really concern me because there is an almost 3,000-foot elevation gain from town to the lake, and it was around 90 degrees outside. But, when we got back into town, it seemed to be on often, and sometimes even when the truck is unloaded. Does the fan come on to assist with radiator cooling, or is it primarily for the AC? It's a 2003 F250 with a 7.3. It also comes on most of the time when I first start the truck.
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I own a 2003 f250 superduty v8 gas. I have a buzzing noise that comes and goes. It comes from the dashboard area around the steering column. However it goes away when either I press on the brakes, hit the signal or press my tow brake control.. And I could go days and not here it then it will be there for a few days and then it goes away again...
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2003 F250 SC Lariat. 4x4, 6spd manual transmission, Manual hubs and manual 4wd shift. The truck shifts into 4wd perfectly. When I shift back into 2wd the transfer case stays in 4wd. If I back up it will go into 2wd.
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I have a 2003 F250 with 157,000 mile. Left the house last week and got about a mile down the road when I realized I had forgotten something. Pulled off to turn around and had no power to get back onto the road. RPMs wouldn't go over about 1500. Finally got it on the road and it completely shut off. Was able to get it home and have been tinkering with it. Stats from Scangauge are as follows:
Key on not cranking.
IPR 14.81%
FICM 47.6-48.0
Sync=0
ICP 32
Data while cranking.
IPR 43-47%
FICM 38-42
Sync=1
ICP 1532
I'm leaning towards a bad FICM but the ICP pressure seems to be high to me.
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I bought it and changed the fuel filter and it was dirty. Then ran a tank of gas with seafoam and then with lucas fuel injector cleaner. Still nothing. It idles like its missing and as long as you are light on the pedal it revs up fine but if you're heavy on the throttle its. Its has no codes that's why I haven't replaced the coil packs and plugs but they have been ordered. I just thought there would be an engine code if any of the coils or plugs were bad. Looked for a vacuum leak but couldn't find any. The donut gasket on the pass side is bad would that cause it to run shifty with no code.
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