Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 F250 - Squeaking Under The Hood - AC Not Working At All
Feb 19, 2016
03 F250. 5.4 2v ... I purchased it a month ago.
Squeak under the hood. It appeared to squeak in relation to the movement of the tensioner......simple right? Replaced Tensioner and Belt..... Still squeaking.
AC not working at all. Compressor never kicking on.....replaced compressor, accumulator, and orifice tube. AC works now!.....squeak still there....
Notice fan wobbling.....shut truck off.....fan clutch shot... replaced....STILL SQUEAKING!!
Obvious answer....sound still on that side of the engine....Idler pulley....I just replaced it and the dang truck is still squeaking!!!!!!!!!
All that's left is the harmonic balancer, alternator, and power steering pump.......What could it be?
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I posted a reply her a couple of weeks ago on how I fixed my '03 SD's squeaky doors. I went to AutoZone and bought 32 feet of 5/8 inch self-adhesive rubber (not foam) weatherstripping and mounted it around the outside edges of both doors, starting at the top. Presto - squeaks are gone, there are no more drafts and road noise is reduced a little. (I may remove the stripping I put on the side edges of the doors because I think the culprit is actually the rigid polyethylene bumper strip they've mounted on the upper door jam).
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So today I was backing up my 11000# fifth wheel at the campground when at 1500-2000 rpm I hear this awful shrieking sound coming from under the hood. I heard it the whole time while backing up and under a load. I never heard it once going forward. So when I get home I put it in reverse and hold the brakes and again I hear this shrieking sound coming from under the hood I get it up to 1500 rpms or so not moving just holding it and the more throttle i apply the louder the shrieking gets.
Now remember the truck is not moving its just spooled up, holding the brakes. I think that maybe something is wrong with the turbo, but I dont want to jump to conclusions. This truck is a 2001 F350 SRW CC LB 7.3 161,000 2 owner miles, 4 inch turbo back FLO PRO Straight pipe, and gauges everything else stock. What is moving that is making this horrible sound.
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I am having some issues with my 2003 f250 6.0l 4x4. I cannot get the 4x4 to engage. There are no lights on the dash and no power to the switch other than the light. It doesn't matter if I have the hubs in lock or auto. It just seems like i have no power to the system. I have check all the fuses and they all check fine. I also check the transfer case motor and it seemed fine. I must be missing something. This truck is worthless without 4x4.
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Wipers/washers didn't work on 2003 f250. No blown fuses in system, supply fuses are 106 and 33, removed wipers and found no voltage on dk/grn wire of connector (fuse106). Turns out that the wire bundle had chafed a wire near the inner fender liner to the point that it cut the wire and broke the connection.
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Love my 03 lariat Super Duty, King Ranch. Just found out 4 wheel drive is not working. Checked fuses, next going to look at the vacuum system, make sure its working. New to the Diesels but going to work at it and learn at the same time. 2003 F-250 4x4 ....
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My overhead display quit working earlier this week. The truck has 120k miles. Is this display on it's own fuse? I only used it for the outside temperature readout but I would really like to get it working again.
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I have a 2003 F250, 4x4, 5.4L and today my fuel gauge stopped working. I don't know if it had anything to do with a stall, I was on an exit ramp and the truck cut off, I quickly restarted and no issues after that. Other than the fuel gauge not working at this point.
I looked at the fuse panel diagram and there is no fuse for just the fuel gauge. The only thing I see is #35, instrument cluster. The rest of my instruments are working, so what else would cause the fuel gauge to stop working? It had a little over a half of a tank before the stall, after the stall it went down to less than half. I filled up shortly later and it's just stuck at less than half.
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I have a 2003 F250 Super Duty 5.4 crew cab. Cruise light comes on when engaged but does not work. I did some research on why its not working checked wiring at the throttle body it seemed ok, Fuse is ok. Also did the self test and everything passed with just one flash but cruise still does not work. I read about many problems with the brake pressure switch but would it pass the self test if that pressure switch was bad? Also what should a switch cost. Local dealer wanted $125.00 for a new one and I have read where they cost around $15.00 - $20.00.
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Battery tested good, tried jumping it as well with cables and with portable pack.
I hear two clicks under the hood (NOT a continuous type click you hear when the battery is dead). The first seems to be up near the passenger fender well when the key is turn to the start position, the second click seems to be down under the motor near the passenger side (near the starter I assume, couldn't tell very well) when the key is RELEASED from the start position. The motor doesn't budge, I don't see any belts flinch or pulleys move to indicate that the starter is engaging. I don't hear anything that sounds like a starter engaging to me.
If not, where the starter solenoid is on this thing? is it separate like the other older ford's I've owned or is it now on the starter? Is there any fuse-able links that could cause this? Wiring diagram? Is there a way to jump the solenoid like in the old school days (e.g. with a screwdriver or wrench)? would like to get this home without towing it or fixing what is really wrong with it in the parking lot.
It's in negative to single digit temps here in Indy now, I fired it up in the morning in negative temps, drove it work. Came out to go home, and now this. So something happened between this morning and now and it's not the battery.
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Twice I open the hood of my SD and I see water pooled up around the intake manifold on my 2001 F250 5.4. This happen when we have heavy rain. My truck is sitting on my drive way that has some angle to it. When it rains, all the water from the roof flows down the windshield and somehow the water is getting into the engine bay.
I cleaned out all the leaves and made sure the rubber molding were in place near the firewall, but it happen again last night. Is there something wrong with my truck to keep the water out. I suppose I could turn the truck around so that the rain will flow from the roof to the bed. But, I like parking my truck the way I park it.
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I have a 2006 F-250 5.4L (6spd manual). I would like to add a second battery. It would be a purely auxiliary battery for radio use, and would be connected to a battery isolator. It would likely be a 33AH SLA, and starting capabilities are not required.
Any clean way to mount a second battery under the hood? On the driver's side, directly above the wheel well, there is an adequate amount of room for a second battery, and there are even tapped holes that seem to have identical spacing to the ones for the factory battery tray.
This leads me to believe that some version of this truck is offered with a second battery (the Powerstroke, maybe?). The local Ford stealership was all but useless, which is pretty standard. They have a solid reputation of not giving a crap about you unless you want to purchase a brand new vehicle with dealership financing.
What is the part number for a second, driver's side battery tray? I really am NOT interested in any kind of solution under than under the hood (no frame rails, or relocation to the bed).
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I've replaced the brakes that weren't in that bad of shape anyways and even replaced one of the rotors as it was under federal regulations. I've even put the brake squeak goop on the back of the pads and it keeps squeaking and squeaking and it's driving me insane. Am i missing something here? I don't here any other super duty's squeaking on the road.
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I have a 2004 Ford F250 Turbo Diesel, egr delete, headstuds, intake, dual stacks, etc and when i turn my wheel a loud whining noise comes from under the hood, I noticed it put tension in my brakes. When I accelerate it gets louder and when i let off the gas it goes away... i checked my fluid in my steering pump and it was low so i put some more in and the next day it was all sitting under neath the truck.... any quick fix or do i need to replace the whole pump?
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I have a 2006 F250 XLT 6.0 diesel. I bought last month to haul my fifth wheel. Looking for the wiring diagram for the "under hood lamp". I have no power at the connector of the under hood lamp. I have checked all the fuses in both locations (battery box and central junction box) and did not find a blown fuse. The under hood lamp is not listed on the the central junction box fuse and relay posting in the owner manual. Is it controlled by something else?
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So to start at the beginning.... Traveled across Canada East to West towing 11000lb travel trailer, no problem. Have used 4x4 in a few campsites to pull out of a pitch without spinning the wheels and causing damage to the site when it has been really wet. All good.
Got to Banff in December and the town was an Ice rink, engaged 4x4 and all good. Crossed the Rockies and the 4x4 starts making grinding noises. Up and down some mountains and squeaking, grinding noise then clunking.
I have manual hubs, disengage and the noise all goes away. Engage 1 hub and no noise. Engage both hubs, noise back.
I bought some needle bearings and went to swap them. Got hubs apart and they look good. No scoring on the drive shafts. They are not dry, but as I have them open, repack them with grease anyway.
Do more research... Remove ABS sensor and repack main bearings with grease. (broke one sensor pulling it out, too cold plastic brittle oops). Still clunking noises.
The universal joints look good, doesn't appear to be any play in them. However, the axle seal (knuckle seal) (F81Z-3254-CB) does move around a lot in it's metal casing. It is tight on the shaft, but with the hub off, I can move it in and out, and move it side to side. If I had ESOF hubs I guess they would not be locking as I'm sure there would be no vacuum in there!
Question is then, would this seal be allowing the universal joint to wobble under load in 4x4 mode? Would this wobble be the cause of the rumble? As it is labelled as a seal and not a bearing, I wouldn't of thought this would have been a loaded point, and the weight would have been taken by the associated bearings and it could be run without this seal? But if it is not this, then I'm still looking for a clue as to what is making the rumble....
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2002 F250 SD 4x4 crew cab, v10. 4x4 not working. Replaced switch on dash, not the problem. Some of told me it was the vacuum control module. Not sure where to start.
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1999, F250, SD, v10, Auto, 4x4.
My light on the overdrive is not coming on and the overdrive does not seem to be working. I had a new transmission installed a few weeks back. Wasn't working prior to this.
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2000 f250 7.3. Today I tried using the 4x4 and no light or anything. Here is what i have tried so far. Swapped the relays and also swapped them with the towing relays with no change. Not getting any voltage to the t-case shift motor at the selector switch testing between pins 2 and 3 there is 4.3 volts with switch in 2wd 2.4 volts at 4 high and 1.09 volts at 4 low. Where to go from here? it worked fine 3 days ago.
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I have a 2008 Ford F250 with 6.4. Having alot of problems with the 4X4. Went to put the truck in 4 wheel drive one day and noticed the light on the dash never came on to engage 4X4. Of course we had a big snow storm coming and I didn't have 4 wheel drive. I drove the truck across town and decided to just try 4x4 again and it worked that time. I got the light on the dash and could hear the transfer case shift motor engage. Came out a little later and tried it and it wasn't working again. Took truck to shop where they replaced transfer case shift motor with a remaned motor from oriellys.
4x4 worked for a few weeks then just started doing the same thing again. We thought maybe that motor had problems also so had it replaced too. Truck is still doing the same stuff. Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't. Figured out that if its not working and I leave it in 4x4 and unhook power to shift motor then plug it back in it will engage 4x4. I've seen some post on here but sounds like everyone i've seen their motor just stops and doesn't work at all.
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1999 F250 V10 gas. I changed out the fuel pump, and now the gauge doesn't work. Checked all fuses - they're good. Is there any possibility that I could have accidentally pinned the float under the pickup sock, or got it hung somewhere? Is this a common occurrence? Don't really want to drop the tank again - but looks like I will have to in order to check/fix.....
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