Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 F250 FX4 Swaying While Driving - Front End Leaking
Sep 12, 2014
My f250 felt like it had a flat as in it was "swaying" while I was driving today. as I'm pulling into my neighborhood it felt as if i had a flat. There is fluid leaking from what looks like a control arm or possibly a canister that's part of a vacuum system. I'm a carpenter obviously by my terminology used in this post. Its dark so ill take another look in the morning but what I'm talking about..
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I have a 02 F250 V10. When I am pulling a trailer and began to travel over 50 MPH the truck feels like its moving left to right almost like its sliding on ice. Its worse the more weight I am pulling. When I am not pulling anything there is no issues. The trailers I am pulling are gooseneck trailers. What would cause this.
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I have a 2005 f250 5.4 no mods. its got 120k and needs a wake up. the passengers side exhaust manifold is leaking to the point of fixing and would like to get some input before the big purchase. my question is, headers or new manifold, and what brands is preferred for both I really don't prefer one or the other i just want the best fix really. Changing coil pack and getting more performance out of them and if so what brand. I would like a boost in lower end acceleration and throttle response, like a programmer or such. and if so what brand once again.
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This morning while driving cold a fuel leak started on my truck it's a very heavy leak wondering what are the most common leaks on an 2003 F250 6.0L are so I can start there.
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The doors on my 2005 crew cab are leaking water. Its happened once before, I fixed it by resetting the main seal around the doors. Now this tropical storm had them leaking again. The rear doors are leaking from the top and getting the head liner wet, and the front left door is leaking a little bit onto the middle pillar Guage and down onto my leg.
Is it time for new door seals? My 01 has never had this problem so im not entirely sure what to do.
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1999 F250 SD 4x4 7.3 PSD ... My truck has 198K miles on it. It pulls to the left as I drive it. So I took it to a shop to have the alignment checked. They told me that the front outer tie rod was bad and needed to be replaced. And of course they said they needed to put in a set of caster camber bushings to do the alignment. They quoted $400 to change the tie rod out. I said I would do that. They gave me the print out from the alignment but reading it the only thing that was out was the toe. Left tire was toe out and the right tire was toe in, which to me would cause it to pull to the left.
I got under the truck and the steering link, piece that goes from steering box to right side/tie rod, is not tight...I can move it up and down and it clunks when I roll it up. I have a clunking noise when I drive it and go over bumps also. Could this be the clunking noise? Also, if I replaced the ends of the steering link, that would tighten up but possibly push the steering back to the right some to straighten out the tires? I have read alot of threads talking about the clunking being tied to the sway bar bushings being bad but the clunking I get by rolling the steering link up and down sounds alot like the noise I am hearing.
Also, when looking at the axles where they go into the knuckle, there is a loose plastic ring on both sides. Is this part of the dust shield or an oil seal?
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I broke 2 snap ring plier on this thing, what is the make and model of snap ring pliers used to remove the snap ring off axle in hub ? I have some others but too beefy won't move in there. They need to be long but strong. I've heard Snap On Item: SRPC9000A works but I don't know of any Snap On guys around here and I need to get this thing done.
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I have been having an issue with my blinker for the past few months. When the blinker is fully engaged, the right front blinker doesn't work. If I just push up on the blinker so it doesn't fully click into place, the right front blinker works fine, so it is not a burnt out bulb. I have also checked my blinker light in my mirrors and they work fine. Left blinker works fine. I am stumped on to what this can be and I need to get it inspected. 2005 F-250...
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I would like to install some driving lights behind the front bumper of my 2005 Super Duty, I was going to drill two 5" holes and than weld in some 5" pipe from the behind the bumper and attach some 5" KC driving lights to it. Would a hole saw work for this or is a bumper to thick? I was looking at DeWalt or Lenox hole saws their bi-metal. I know that I have to drill slow and I was going to use cutting fluid. I could use my drill press but I think I would have to figure how to clamp a bumper to the table. Then I am going to grind/sand the chrome off and paint it black. I will be taking the bumper off doing all of this.
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I have a 2004 Ford F-250 6.0 power stroke, the previous owner got water in the tank, rusted the injectors, and destroyed the pump, I changed the pump and 2 injectors, it still died. It has 300K miles on, pretty high. Right now all symptom is the motor is starving for fuel, because the injectors are leaking, getting air in it. When I pull the fuel filter out, it is full of dirt, And swollen up because of water. So, I am planning to flush the tank, get rid of the water and then replace the injectors. Could there be any damage on the motor ? Engine problems? I know 6.0 is a bad design, but apart from getting rid of it, how could I fix ?
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If you look at the top of the picture you can see the two bolts with fresh oil on them.
I have a 2002 Ford F250 V10 Pick up. I noticed oil leaking from under the oil pan. I wiped off the pan and bolts to see where it was coming from. The oil seems to be leaking from the rear of pan. There's always fresh oil on the rear bolts that hold the pan and I also noticed oil coming from one of the two hoses that go from the radiator to where the oil filter mounts.
But don't those hoses carry radiator fluid and not oil? I bought this truck in July and no oil leaking from underneath. It seemed to have started after I did my first oil change on it. I used regular Vavoline 5W-20 and motorcraft oil filter.
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I just picked up a 14 F-250 with 6.2 engine. the shocks are leaking, and before I order new ones I want get opinions. I was looking at Bilstein 5100 series. 24-186025 for the rear, and 24-186018 for the front. are these the best, or should i get something else.
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My 01 f250 has a leak coming down my line of sight on the windshield. Not sure if it's the seal, or the clearance light above it. Ever run into this before?
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What would I need to replace in order to fix this leak ?
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I just bought a 2000 F250 SD 6.8 v10 and its mixing coolant in the block and leaking oil. I'm debating on just dropping a newer v10 in it but im just not 100% sure that this engine is shot. It runs great when there's oil in it and I can't even tell there's any problems going on for well over a couple hours after i fill it up with oil.
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Changing out the rear main oil seal on my 1999 F250 Super Duty. I have a 7.3L diesel with 6 spd manual trans. with 98K miles. This past week it has developed a very slow engine oil drip where the engine meets the transfer case. Is it necessary to remove the engine or just the transmission? What does a transmission/transfer case combo weigh? What special tools would I need?
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I have a 2015 F250, cc 4X4 PSD. It has 22,000 miles on it. I notice a small quarter sized drop of oil after it is parked by the right side front wheel. It is coming from behind the dust cover and universal joint where the axle goes into the tube. I dont know how long it has been leaking. My issue is I am about 800 miles from home on a camping trip, have to go back to work Monday, and lcoal dealer here can't take it in till next week. So, if the hubs are not locked and the truck is in 2 wheel drive, the gears shouldn't be turning right? I assume it is ok to drive home. I didn't want to pull the plug and check the fluid because if any runs out and leaves a stain on the cover, I don't want ford trying to deny warranty claiming I messed with it first.
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Right after i got this truck it developed an oil leak which i thought was the front main. Turns out after a lot if degreaser and watching its not and its actually leaking from a small tube running out of the passenger side of the engine. I think its an oil cooler line but not sure. Its where the cross member is located and i cant get in there very easily or figure out how to load up pics to the site on my phone. What this line may be?
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I noticed the other day after my truck was parked on a bit of a angle there was diff oil from the passenger side on the ground. reading a bit on here i learned the axle seals are way in the front housing close to the front diff. and yesterday driving a heavy load around my front brake driver side got stuck on a bit and over heated and was smoking, couldn't even touch the rim it was so hot. anyway about this axle seal i got the hub off right now but cant seem to pull out the axle assembly through the knuckle but i see i have to pry and most likely wreck that seal. Looking for a link of piuctures or how to replace the axle seals in the housing.
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New to me truck has 80k on it, it's leaking at the bell housing. Pulled the inspection plate and it's definitely red stinky automatic transmission fluid. Back of the torque converter is clean.
Ford warranty has run out, however I do have an aftermarket warranty on the truck. Trans temp isn't above normal or running hot.
I'm a very mechanically inclined engineer, I do not work on cars for a living, but I have replaced an input shaft seal on a 4wd transmission before. That's my best guess as to what's leaking. Is this a common issue?
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Went to change plugs on my '01 F250 5.4. When I pulled the coils, there was antifreeze in the tubes. Intake manifold gasket? How big a job, both in driveway or at shop.
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