Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 Pulls To The Left When Driving / Front Outer Tie Rod Bad
Apr 25, 2014
1999 F250 SD 4x4 7.3 PSD ... My truck has 198K miles on it. It pulls to the left as I drive it. So I took it to a shop to have the alignment checked. They told me that the front outer tie rod was bad and needed to be replaced. And of course they said they needed to put in a set of caster camber bushings to do the alignment. They quoted $400 to change the tie rod out. I said I would do that. They gave me the print out from the alignment but reading it the only thing that was out was the toe. Left tire was toe out and the right tire was toe in, which to me would cause it to pull to the left.
I got under the truck and the steering link, piece that goes from steering box to right side/tie rod, is not tight...I can move it up and down and it clunks when I roll it up. I have a clunking noise when I drive it and go over bumps also. Could this be the clunking noise? Also, if I replaced the ends of the steering link, that would tighten up but possibly push the steering back to the right some to straighten out the tires? I have read alot of threads talking about the clunking being tied to the sway bar bushings being bad but the clunking I get by rolling the steering link up and down sounds alot like the noise I am hearing.
Also, when looking at the axles where they go into the knuckle, there is a loose plastic ring on both sides. Is this part of the dust shield or an oil seal?
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My 2003 F250 6.0 pulls to the right when driving at any speed. In order to keep it going straight the steering wheel must be slightly tilted to the left, not much but a little. When the brakes are applied hard it will go to the left slightly if you are not holding the wheel good. Neither of these are terrible, just a nuisance. I'm worried about uneven tire wear too. One front wheel bearing was replaced a few weeks ago. It had this problem before that and still does after. Does this sound like an alignment or maybe something more?
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My 2012 f350 6 lift when I push the brakes it pulls to the left kinda bad and the steering wheel is off to the right..
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Well just called it quits from working on the truck tonight. Had some issues with my brakes going to the floor and pulling to the right some, so I went to auto zone and bought all new pads. Didn't think it was time yet because I just replaced the rotors, pads, calipers, maybe 20,000 miles ago. When I got home and everything pulled apart I looked at the pads on the truck and they still had 60% life. I looked closely and noticed that the guider pins on the caliper bracket (front drivers side) were seized. I figured this is what was causing my truck to pull. Looked on the passenger side and it looked similar. Went back to auto zone and returned the pads and bought new brackets for both sides. I got the drivers side replaced and working and all seemed well. I got to the passenger and had a hell of a time getting the pistons on the caliper to compress so I could get it off. Once I finally got it, I noticed the pins on that side were not seized. I bought 2 sets of guider pins so I took the old ones out and greased up the new ones and installed them. Put everything back together and took the truck for a drive. Everything seemed normal at first, but once I got on the highway and hit the brakes, my truck pulled to the left. HARD.. Im assuming this is because of the pistons on the passenger side caliper I was having a problem with, not having the piston compress all the way causing my truck to pull. While I was looking at the caliper, I also noticed what '"looked" like a grease fitting, and also a bleeder valve a few inches away from it. Am I crazy, or is that fitting for bleeding the brake lines also...?
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I have a 99 F-250 extended cab superduty 4 wd with the 7.3. I also plow during the winter. Recently I've noticed wear on the inside of the left front tire. Brought it to a tire shop and had them check the front end and alignment. They told me that the specs were "within" tolerances" for my truck. I'm stumped as to why the abnormal wear if everything is supposedly good with the alignment.
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Well, I tried this Death Wobble Kit on my Ford F350 Super Duty from a company called WC Motorsports. Had it installed at a Ford Dealership. DO NOT BUY this kit. Missing parts right out of the box. Also makes a horrible clanking noise after install. Piece of junk. Possible fix to one problem only to have multiple other problems:
1. Clanking Noise
2. Truck pulls to the left
3. Have to cut the factory subframe. (Never a good idea)
4. Changes the degree (not recommended by Ford)
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When you turn the headlight switch to the headlight on position, you can pull it out exhibiting a positive click as if it is an additional switch for maybe optional fog lights. If the headlight switch is in the off or running lights only position, this will not pull out. I reviewed the elect. diagram but it does not show and addition circuit for the pull switch functionality?
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I have a pedal pulsation, steering wheel shimmy, and pull to the right when the brakes are applied in my truck. It is a 2009 F250 4x4 gas V8. I just replaced the pads, rotors, and calipers on the front and that's when the problem started. It definitely gets worse with speed too. I replaced the calipers because the right one had seized up and the left one looked to be on the way. There are no odd noises and the wheel bearing doesn't feel like there is any play in it. What this could be?
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I'm looking at a 2004 F250 XLT super cab 4x4 with a 5.4L with only 50k on the clock. It looks to be in great shape and drives good with only a few issues. Cruise doesn't work, it pulls to the left a little, and it has a slight roar coming from the left front wheel. Other than that it seems to be a nice truck. Its blue and grey two tone. Anything else I need to look at before pulling the handle on this one?
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My 99 F250 has just recently started making a "rattling" noise. The noise sounds like its coming from the front left wheel area. The noise is constant while driving down the road, its NOT created by bumps or anything, its a constant noise while moving.
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I have a noise with my new (2.6k miles) 2000 Diesel F250 Crew Cab. When I make low speed, right turns while crossing any type of depression in the road I hear a loud knock as if the left shock is bottoming out. There's an intersection near my house with runoff depressions across the road, I almost always hear the noise when making that turn. I've occasionally heard it coming from the right side when making a left turn.
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My f250 felt like it had a flat as in it was "swaying" while I was driving today. as I'm pulling into my neighborhood it felt as if i had a flat. There is fluid leaking from what looks like a control arm or possibly a canister that's part of a vacuum system. I'm a carpenter obviously by my terminology used in this post. Its dark so ill take another look in the morning but what I'm talking about..
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I am getting ready to put new axle shaft u-joints in my 2008 F350 (they are shot, they actually rattle on my rough roads). While I am at it I figure I will grease the front wheel brg cartridge, replace the needle brg that is inside the cartridge. I am also afraid I will the axle shaft vacuum seal. I don't want to go to ford an get raped, diesel O-rings doesn't have parts for the newer pickups and I don't want to get junk from the parts houses. Where I can get these parts for a reasonable price? What the best brands are? Are they the same parts as the earlier super duties? I know the lock out is different.
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2004 PSD 4x4 72k. I thought I would be proactive so I bought the front ball joints and have plans to install them but recently I starting hearing (and feeling) a clicking sound in the front LEFT when I make sharp turns to the left and hit small bumps now and again. I jacked up the front end and am able to get 1/4" of movement front to back (top to bottom so not steering) in the wheel.
I narrowed it down to the hub. I took it apart and it is most likely a sealed unit so no adjustment is possible....that I can see.I pulled out the locking hub and got as far as I can to know there is not an adjustment. Need to confirm that it indeed is a sealed bearing and if so what are the part number(s) I may need to repair it.
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I have a 1999 f250 sd with the 7.3. I'm not sure what is going on with my pickup. When I turn to the right i can turn with one finger, but when I turn left i have to put some muscle into it. Power steering fluid is full. I raised the front end and it turns both ways easy. My ball joints feel fine, there is no tire shake when i have it off the ground. My tie rods feel fine also, nice and tight. I was thinking about replacing the steering sector to see if thats the issue but wanted to get a second opinion first.
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I have 2 F-350 4x4's and they both wander back and forth when driving. They feel like they don't have enough caster. One is a 2000 V-10 extended cab with 8 foot bed. The other is a 2015 6.7 diesel crew cab with 8 foot bed.
I have driven the 2000 for so many years that I have grown use to the very slight sawing of the wheel to keep the rig straight. When my wife got her 2015 it does the same thing. The 2000 is leaf spring and the 2015 is coil spring. This bothered me when I first got the 2000 (used) but I just figured it was part of
the charm of a big truck.
I know I could put a caster shim in the 2000 but there must be a better way to solve the problem. Both are stock, no lift and no heavy winch or stuff.
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I bought a 2004 F250 Crew Cab LB 4x4 with the 5.4 Motor and when I turn left it has some Tight Spots and I can't figure out why, I checked the Drive axles to make sure the locking hubs were unlocked and they spun freely, I Also have a lot of play in the steering wheel, Could this all be Related to the Steering Box? What else should I check for ?
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I recently had need of replacing my left exhaust manifold on a 2000 F250 4 x 4. I removed plastic inner fender well. Now I have a two pin harness with both white wires. One is white with red stripe, the other is white with black stripe. The harness is round with a locking square on one side. The harness is located about 10" from bottom of inner left plastic fender panel. It has 2 mounting pegs. Where the heck does this connect?
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I had some steering issues with my truck so took it for an evaluation at pep boys. They recommended a new steering gear box and tie rod that hooks to the pitman arm so I had them replace them. Steering was improved but now the wheel is canted to the left or right depending on when I make a turn. When I make a left turn, the wheel is canted about 10 o'clock. When I make a right turn, it's canted about 1 o'clock.
I looked under and had my brother turn the wheel and didn't really notice any thing loose. I lifted the front and noticed the left wheel bearings need to be replaced. I also noticed the shocks were shot and replaced them but it didn't make a difference in the crooked wheel.
Do you think it's the wheel bearing that can cause this? How about the ball joints? The truck has 407k miles and I bought it a month ago. Previous owner said he never replaced any steering components. Should I just replace all steering components with the Moog kit? I'd like to hold off on the $600+ kit for now as I just bought a a boat and the boat needs some stuff. I hope to find that one thing (hopefully not more) that's loose.
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Took truck out for a ride and stopped for gas. I smelled Brakes and upon inspection found the left rear brake pads were not releasing. Any take on what could be holding it? 2008 F-250.
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2012 F450 Dually King Ranch 4x4 - I have read many threads on front end noise. I started hearing a noise when I turned left or right and then slowly run over a speed bump. I listen to music at an average sound and I picked up on the front end noise. For some reason you can hear it in the driver seat better.
Anyway I took the vehicle in and the mechanic said he didn't hear anything. I thought, he forget his hearing aid today? I have this expensive warranty plan that would actually cover a few items in the front end but Ford is claiming they don't hear anything.
In their defense I have figured it out why. When the temps are below 40 the noise gets louder and I think by the time they looked at it (8 hours after I brought it in, 5:00pm) the day was warmer.
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