I bought my 2005 F-350 Diesel 6.0 Brand New. Whenever my low fuel light comes on, I only have a few miles to go before I run out of diesel. Is there a way to adjust this light so it will come on with maybe 20-30 miles to go before running out? Its seems to only have maybe a gallon in the tank when this light comes on...
View 7 RepliesMy 4wd doesn't engage on my 04 powerstroke. The dash light doesn't come on. I replaced the relays, switch, and 4wd module, I checked the fuses, all fuses are good, but fuse 31 doesn't get power to it. The voltage at the relay block reads 12v with the fuses out, but drops to around 7v when they're plugged in. I have no power to the Tcase (.15v).
View 11 RepliesThis is my "03 F350 single wheel 7.3 automatic 4x4. For quite some time now I have to manually lock the front hubs. Maybe it would work automatically, maybe not, and now I always have to manually lock the hubs.....but I can live with that. The problem now is that the selector switch on the dash isn't working or something else is preventing the transfer case from going into 4x4. The 4x4 light on the dash also does not come on.
I have checked all the fuses and they are good, I do not have a owners manual so I don't know what to look for in the fusebox. Perhaps it is on a relay? Also, I would like to check the dash switch for power coming and going but how do I get the switch out of the dash? I'm afraid I'll break the bezel around the switch if I pry too much.
Recently drove a 3500 mile road trip with no issues after installing a SCT X4 programmer from 5 star. Upon returning home the following week the ABS light came on and has not gone off. Additionally, last week the truck stalled while driving down the road at around 45 mph. Had something similar happen last summer, got the truck stuck and was trying to rock it in the mud and every time I shifted from reverse or forward the rpm's dropped to 500 and the truck could not respond to the gas pedal and the ABS light came on. Once I got out and washed all the mud from under it light went off and it ran fine without any warning lights.
Truck is an 05, V-10, 4x4, off road and tow package, lariat. No other mods besides the programmer.
On my 05 Super Duty, the gauge light for the fuel and oil pressure are out. The needles are still illuminated red but the backlight for the gauges are dark. Are these replaceable bulbs or are they a circuit board diode or something that can't be easily replaced?
View 1 RepliesI looked around for ABS issues but did not find anything to my question .. Mine started last summer running along interstate light just popped one I had just run over some paper and stuff tossed out by a diver food bags and stuff so I figured maybe some trash go into the area under wheel sensor I stopped a bit later for fuel and lite did nit come back on at start up.. Did not come on again for several weeks I scanned the system said faulty sensor circuit .
My son in Law has a mech. at his dealership to look it over he plopped a new sensor in it .. Light came back on again a day or so later I think there is a bad connection at some point .. I took the one at the wheel and the one right at the fender well liner a my scanner said it was right or passenger side front both times I scanned it .
My question is, how many more connections there is its almost impossible for my crippled up to crawl and climb all over and under the thing to clean the connectors and add some dielectric grease. 05 S/D 6.0 turbo....
2005 6.0 F350 dually, speedometer quit working and the ABS light came on. I replaced the speedo sensor in the diff, but to no avail. Hear a lot about the cluster, however nothing with the ABS light on.
View 3 RepliesI recently bought this truck. and the original owner said since he owned it after a couple of minutes after starting it will say water in fuel in the info monitor. I press esc or whatever it goes away and doesn't come back until the engine is shut off and turned back on again. What might be the issue?
View 7 Replies2005 6.0 F250 super duty ... I was getting the water in fuel light as I have in the past. I drained the fuel pump on the frame like always, but it came back. So I changed the filters thinking this would do it but the light comes on every time I drive. What gives?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 F 350 with a 6.0 Diesel! My heat quit on my wife and I the other night! I replaced some fuses and started the truck to make sure the heat was working and it was! So I thought while I am here I should replace some bulbs in the cluster that were out!
I took the cluster out, looked at the bulbs and they looked oK so I put them back in and put the dash back together! When I went to start the truck once I turned the switch on my gauges and lights started flickering on and off fast and all it will do is just click when I try to start it! I just had it running 15 minutes before this!
I went through all the fuses and if I take one of the relays out and turn the switch on all the lights and gauges seem to work right but when I try to start it, nothing! I replaced the relay and it starts flickering again! I had the relay checked at Napa and they said it was good! The relay was for the Powertrain module!
I have been having some inconsistency with my transmission in my 2005 F350. I bought it used 2 months ago and have had the low/tow overdrive light blinking. a month ago I removed the pan and changed the filter in the transmission. I had a friend run the diagnostic test and found transmission solenoid code as well as both cat. converters as well as my Number 8 cylinder misfiring... I pulled the transmission pan and filter to find what appears to be 7 solenoids? Where to start?
View 1 RepliesSo the first issue is, if the vehicle is cold (regardless of temp outside) it takes forever to start it. It cranks and cranks and cranks and after a couple seconds of cranking I stop, wait a second, then try again. Usually it takes two sometimes three tries to start it. The guy who I bought it off of said it has newer glow plugs (last year I believe) and also I have replaced the batteries. Once its warmed up it does not do this at all.
Secondly and also something that just recently started happening, my water in fuel light keeps kicking in. I drained the water out of the water catcher reservoir under the truck multiple times and the first time water actually came out but every time after that simply diesel fuel comes out. I added a bottle of water remover to the fuel as well and ran it down to a quarter tank. Then filled the truck up completely, added two more bottles of water remover. The light still comes on. I noticed it only comes on when I am going up or down a fill. When I am driving on flat ground it does not kick on.
My dads 05 f250 6.0 PSD. He says he'll take off in the morning and the fuel gauge will randomly drop to empty and trigger the low fuel light, but then also the Check Engine Light will come on. My brother did a code scan and no codes come up. Where we should be looking to remedy this one?
View 14 RepliesI need to remove the panel to the left of the dash that has the headlight switch and AC outlet in it.
View 1 RepliesI have an '02 F350 PS. Recently I have been hearing a crackling noise coming from under the dash on the drivers side sometimes at idle but more often when driving. Th strange thing about it is that the noise stops as soon as there is any pressure on the brake pedal. The noise sounds electrical in nature but I can't be sure. I want to crawl under the dash to try and ID the source but it is not consistent and I have not been able to do so when I hear it. What it might be?
View 2 Replies2011 F350 6.2L Gas engine. Last fall when I first started using my heat I noticed that the air would only blow through the dash vents. It will not switch over to defrost or floor. I have an XLT I am pretty sure the controls are the basic controls. there are push buttons to change from floor/vent and defrost. I do recall the summer before I had I noticed the problem I would hear a clicking sound in behind the dash. I figured something fell down the defrost vent. I see people who have had this problem on older trucks talking about an actuator. I've looked on ford parts site and I cannot find an actuator listed for the damper door. I was hoping to see what it looks like so I could try and find it in my truck.
I do have the dash pulled apart and I can reach up and manually move a lever that is connected to a cable. and I can change the air outlet to the floor, but I cannot get it to change to defrost. While I have the dash apart I also tried pressing the buttons on the heat control to see if the lever which I am moving by hand is moving at all and it is no. I was thinking if something was stuck in the system I would probably be able to feel the cable at least try to move, but it does not. The white cable which is connected to the lever which I am moving goes into the bottom of the duct work, where it goes from there, but I am assuming some kind of actuator?
This is right in front of the 4x4 shifter
Obviously behind the glove box
With the radio removed
I'm guessing this is 1 of the motors?
I stuck my camera up there to see what was there. This is as far forward as I could go on the drive rside and in front of the 4x4 shifter. You can see the end of the cable I'm assuming that is the door.....
I did this years ago in my 04 Mini Cooper, although there were no vacuum lines, just about a 30 wire wiring harness. simple enough, extended each wire 1 by 1 so it reached where i needed it to be for the new location.
How hard would this be to move it? i haven't even taken the control panel out of the dash yet, i will do that tomorrow and see what's back there, it's been a while since i removed one so i don't recall what the wires were like, if there were vacuum lines, etc.
Until tomorrow when i can look for myself, if there is enough slack in the entire harness/vacuum lines/etc to move it slightly up/down/left/right, but in the same general area? I don't really want to move it, but here's the reasoning. my Joying android double din head unit doesn't fit. it fits in the opening in the dash behind the bezel:
And I've trimmed the little "lips/tabs" on the bezel radio opening completely off, there's nothing else to trim, and the plastic trim around the face of the radio prevents it from sliding in flush with the bezel, so the face of the screen is parallel with the face of the a/c controls, like the stock radio is.
kind of hard to tell but if you look close where the sanding marks are, it's completely flat with the main part of the bezel. normal double din installs in 99-04's i believe you only have to trim either the top/bottom, or the side tabs depending on the unit/stereo installation kit/trim pieces, but usually double dins will fit after trimming these tabs. this android unit is slightly larger due to the plastic trim around the screen (not removable, it's part of the actual screen) so that's why i'm having a hard time.
The only thing i can think of is to completely remove that plastic "bar" that's right in between the radio and the a/c controls, the one that's sort of rounded on the front. if i remove that, the radio will fit, but then it will cut into the a/c controls. now i'm not sure if i can maybe trim more bezel off directly under the a/c (there's not much of the bezel left directly under it to even trim) and move the a/c down just enough to allow the radio to fit right above it....or do something more in depth, and relocate it completely, either somewhere else on the dash, maybe in my future full length custom console i plan to build to house a subwoofer or two, as well as cup holders etc....or, which i think would be my favorite but the most work, and probably not even worth it because i THINK there's vacuum lines on the controls, is to move it to the overhead console like the same exact control is mounted in my excursion (which controls the rear air). i think i even have a spare excursion console that i could use so it houses the controls like stock and looks 100% factory rather than fiber glassing etc...i'd really like that option, it'd give me more space in the bezel to mount my clarion 1/2 DIN equalizer near the radio (which i probably can't if i leave the a/c in the dash) and it would keep me from possibly putting the a/c in the console, that's a last resort for me i think.
This is sorta neat how they moved it, i'd assume there may be enough play in the harness to move it here without having the cut/extend anything? that's what this thread is for essentially, so i can find that out .. I also don't know if i want to even put the a/c there because I'm not 100% sure yet, but i may bring my console (at an angle/curve) all the way up to that point on the dash where my console build will meet the dash. Not sure if I'm going to stop it below that point and retain the stock pull out cup holders and little cubby, or just remove that completely and bring the console to the bottom of the actual bezel. Looking for any pics of the back of the a/c controls (again, 2004 f350, non digital controls, same as in that last picture above). As well as info on how to go about extending things if it's doable without being over the top work to complete it.
I have checked the fuses on my 2000 f- 350 for the dash lites. They are ok. I have turn signals n all but no dash lites ?
View 14 RepliesEvery time I connect the battery I get a clicking under the dash its non stop until I remove the battery cables. just when I remove the left passenger side battery. When I put in the key while its clicking and try to start its almost like I have no power the needle just drops down to nothing. The batteries have a full charge I pulled them off and charged over night also brought them in and had them tested. Seems like a serious short in the electrical but that clicking under the dash coming from fuse box scares me. I did pull all the relays and it still clicks.... doesn't sound good! 1999 F350...
View 5 Replies4x4 dash indicator light stopped working on my father's 2002 F-350 V10 about 8 years ago and I'm trying to see if I can fix that problem.
Unsure exactly when this problem began, but when a mechanic replaced front wheel hub about 8~9 years ago, automatic hub lock stopped working. Back then, I thought that is why 4x4 indicator stopped working.
When I removed hub to replace ball joint 2 years ago, I discovered yellow O ring was not installed and that was the reason why automatic hub lock stopped working. Now I installed new O ring and vacuum seal, automatic hub lock works. However, 4x4 indicator on the dash still does not work.
I thought may be bulb went out, but when I tested dash bulbs with self test mode, 4x4 indicator light turns on. Also I believe that lamp is LED not regular bulb.
When I pulled DTC, I get P1879 - Powertrain Transmission Transfer Case 2-Wheel Drive Solenoid Circuit Failure. From what I searched this indicates failure at vacuum solenoid for front hub locks, but it is working fine. What is going on?
How to take the panels off? I need to remove the passenger srs module for the light bulb repair. It's a 2003 F350 XLT SWR 4X4.
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