Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F350 - Clicking Under The Dash Every Time When Connect The Battery
Apr 23, 2014
Every time I connect the battery I get a clicking under the dash its non stop until I remove the battery cables. just when I remove the left passenger side battery. When I put in the key while its clicking and try to start its almost like I have no power the needle just drops down to nothing. The batteries have a full charge I pulled them off and charged over night also brought them in and had them tested. Seems like a serious short in the electrical but that clicking under the dash coming from fuse box scares me. I did pull all the relays and it still clicks.... doesn't sound good! 1999 F350...
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Bottom-line question: is there a way to tell if a GEM is fried?
'99 F350 with a known water leak (not where it leaks, but for sure that it does--glove box, floor mats, etc.).
Recently started running the battery down, and then noticed that under low-voltage conditions it would click the door-lock relay back and forth, etc.
Now, after several inches more rain, it's making clicking and other electrical havoc noises any time it's not running, key in or out, even when the battery is up enough to start the truck (V10). I charged the truck and started it, drove it around to let it charge some more, and when I got home and shut it off, it was clicking as bad as ever.
After reading on the forums a while, I went ahead and pulled the fuse panel and GEM. The two big fuse panel connectors were definitely wet inside, and there's a little corrosion on one or two of the bayonet connectors. The GEM itself doesn't seem wet, and it doesn't look/smell like I've let the smoke out of it.
What do I do at this point? Last time, after I charged it up, it seemed to hold a charge and didn't do any clicking. I thought at the time it was related to the door switches that had been on the fritz (and which I lubricated after reading about where they are). Now, I suspect it was just because it had been long enough since it was rained on that things had dried out.
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2010 ford f350 super heavy duty diesel...
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How do connect the oem subs on my 08 350 with an after market audio system which has an RCA line dedicated for subs? What are sub wire colors behind the dash?
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I just brought home an 04 F350. It is a V10, 6 speed, with 30,600 verified miles on it. It runs and drives fantastic, and that V10 is impressive! I am very impressed. I have noticed that the compressor cycles, even with the dial in the off position. Is this normal for the super duty, or is something amiss? If something is wrong, what direction do I look in?
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Diesel truck starts fine. Idles up in cold. Runs fine. Sitting in cab I hear a random clicking. This sound comes and goes. Driving down the highway at 70 it will do it. After an hour or so it won't do it any more. If I shut the truck off and start it again the random clicking will resume it comes and goes? Where to start looking. It sounds like the click from dead batteries but the batteries will turn over engine and start with no problems.
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Our new 2016 F350 King Ranch is suffering from a battery drain. It goes dead after it's been left for over 24 hours. This has left us stranded several times.
The truck has been at the dealership for weeks and there is still no resolution. We really like the truck and bought it because we believed it would be dependable. This is extremely frustrating.
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I have a 2013 f350 powerstroke, and the other day i climbed in it noticed that with the right turn signal on that it wasn't clicking through the speakers. Then noted that the arrow wasnt lighting on the dash either. But the lights were still working in the headlight and the tailight. but not the mirror, where to start.
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Every time I apply brakes I hear a weird humming noise, as well as no stopping power. Checked fluids and pads and everything is where it should be. I heard abs can cause this but not sure on that. I know my master cylinder has a very small leak but it hasn't lost any fluids of that sort. I'm lost. I don't know where else to look.
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My 2011 F350 is shaking like a wet dog, all the time, loaded with a trailer and empty. It's the whole truck, not just the front end or rear end. It'll shake a Dr Pepper flat in 10 mins. No one can figure out why. Maybe y'all can think of something.
Here's what we've done
New tires, balanced
Alignment
Replaced ball joints and sway bar
Replaced carrier bearing
Replaced passenger front hub that got mysteriously locked and henceforth destroyed.
Replaced all 4 shocks
Where to look next?? Guess I should mention is 4x4 dually with 177,803 miles.
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My 4wd doesn't engage on my 04 powerstroke. The dash light doesn't come on. I replaced the relays, switch, and 4wd module, I checked the fuses, all fuses are good, but fuse 31 doesn't get power to it. The voltage at the relay block reads 12v with the fuses out, but drops to around 7v when they're plugged in. I have no power to the Tcase (.15v).
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I bought my 2005 F-350 Diesel 6.0 Brand New. Whenever my low fuel light comes on, I only have a few miles to go before I run out of diesel. Is there a way to adjust this light so it will come on with maybe 20-30 miles to go before running out? Its seems to only have maybe a gallon in the tank when this light comes on...
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I need to remove the panel to the left of the dash that has the headlight switch and AC outlet in it.
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I have an '02 F350 PS. Recently I have been hearing a crackling noise coming from under the dash on the drivers side sometimes at idle but more often when driving. Th strange thing about it is that the noise stops as soon as there is any pressure on the brake pedal. The noise sounds electrical in nature but I can't be sure. I want to crawl under the dash to try and ID the source but it is not consistent and I have not been able to do so when I hear it. What it might be?
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2011 F350 6.2L Gas engine. Last fall when I first started using my heat I noticed that the air would only blow through the dash vents. It will not switch over to defrost or floor. I have an XLT I am pretty sure the controls are the basic controls. there are push buttons to change from floor/vent and defrost. I do recall the summer before I had I noticed the problem I would hear a clicking sound in behind the dash. I figured something fell down the defrost vent. I see people who have had this problem on older trucks talking about an actuator. I've looked on ford parts site and I cannot find an actuator listed for the damper door. I was hoping to see what it looks like so I could try and find it in my truck.
I do have the dash pulled apart and I can reach up and manually move a lever that is connected to a cable. and I can change the air outlet to the floor, but I cannot get it to change to defrost. While I have the dash apart I also tried pressing the buttons on the heat control to see if the lever which I am moving by hand is moving at all and it is no. I was thinking if something was stuck in the system I would probably be able to feel the cable at least try to move, but it does not. The white cable which is connected to the lever which I am moving goes into the bottom of the duct work, where it goes from there, but I am assuming some kind of actuator?
This is right in front of the 4x4 shifter
Obviously behind the glove box
With the radio removed
I'm guessing this is 1 of the motors?
I stuck my camera up there to see what was there. This is as far forward as I could go on the drive rside and in front of the 4x4 shifter. You can see the end of the cable I'm assuming that is the door.....
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I did this years ago in my 04 Mini Cooper, although there were no vacuum lines, just about a 30 wire wiring harness. simple enough, extended each wire 1 by 1 so it reached where i needed it to be for the new location.
How hard would this be to move it? i haven't even taken the control panel out of the dash yet, i will do that tomorrow and see what's back there, it's been a while since i removed one so i don't recall what the wires were like, if there were vacuum lines, etc.
Until tomorrow when i can look for myself, if there is enough slack in the entire harness/vacuum lines/etc to move it slightly up/down/left/right, but in the same general area? I don't really want to move it, but here's the reasoning. my Joying android double din head unit doesn't fit. it fits in the opening in the dash behind the bezel:
And I've trimmed the little "lips/tabs" on the bezel radio opening completely off, there's nothing else to trim, and the plastic trim around the face of the radio prevents it from sliding in flush with the bezel, so the face of the screen is parallel with the face of the a/c controls, like the stock radio is.
kind of hard to tell but if you look close where the sanding marks are, it's completely flat with the main part of the bezel. normal double din installs in 99-04's i believe you only have to trim either the top/bottom, or the side tabs depending on the unit/stereo installation kit/trim pieces, but usually double dins will fit after trimming these tabs. this android unit is slightly larger due to the plastic trim around the screen (not removable, it's part of the actual screen) so that's why i'm having a hard time.
The only thing i can think of is to completely remove that plastic "bar" that's right in between the radio and the a/c controls, the one that's sort of rounded on the front. if i remove that, the radio will fit, but then it will cut into the a/c controls. now i'm not sure if i can maybe trim more bezel off directly under the a/c (there's not much of the bezel left directly under it to even trim) and move the a/c down just enough to allow the radio to fit right above it....or do something more in depth, and relocate it completely, either somewhere else on the dash, maybe in my future full length custom console i plan to build to house a subwoofer or two, as well as cup holders etc....or, which i think would be my favorite but the most work, and probably not even worth it because i THINK there's vacuum lines on the controls, is to move it to the overhead console like the same exact control is mounted in my excursion (which controls the rear air). i think i even have a spare excursion console that i could use so it houses the controls like stock and looks 100% factory rather than fiber glassing etc...i'd really like that option, it'd give me more space in the bezel to mount my clarion 1/2 DIN equalizer near the radio (which i probably can't if i leave the a/c in the dash) and it would keep me from possibly putting the a/c in the console, that's a last resort for me i think.
This is sorta neat how they moved it, i'd assume there may be enough play in the harness to move it here without having the cut/extend anything? that's what this thread is for essentially, so i can find that out .. I also don't know if i want to even put the a/c there because I'm not 100% sure yet, but i may bring my console (at an angle/curve) all the way up to that point on the dash where my console build will meet the dash. Not sure if I'm going to stop it below that point and retain the stock pull out cup holders and little cubby, or just remove that completely and bring the console to the bottom of the actual bezel. Looking for any pics of the back of the a/c controls (again, 2004 f350, non digital controls, same as in that last picture above). As well as info on how to go about extending things if it's doable without being over the top work to complete it.
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This is my "03 F350 single wheel 7.3 automatic 4x4. For quite some time now I have to manually lock the front hubs. Maybe it would work automatically, maybe not, and now I always have to manually lock the hubs.....but I can live with that. The problem now is that the selector switch on the dash isn't working or something else is preventing the transfer case from going into 4x4. The 4x4 light on the dash also does not come on.
I have checked all the fuses and they are good, I do not have a owners manual so I don't know what to look for in the fusebox. Perhaps it is on a relay? Also, I would like to check the dash switch for power coming and going but how do I get the switch out of the dash? I'm afraid I'll break the bezel around the switch if I pry too much.
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'08 F350 6.4l 4wd, I had the truck come in with a exploded transfer case. (See pics). Ive read all about this happening to many others. The truck still drove, hubs not locked, plenty of fluid in the TC, pretty sure it was the double Cardan that did it. Anyways I replaced thwith TC, replaced the front driveshaft, filled the TC with recommended fluid. Test drove and drives great, shifts fine. Only until I turned left.
At slow speeds turning hard or 15-20 taking a turn, it sounds like a ratchet clicking from somewhere on the left side, right around the drivers door, from what I can hear from the cab. Does it in 2wd, 4wd hi/low, hubs locked or not. I changed the vacuum pump, no leaks, changed the IWE solenoid, pulled out both locking mechanisms, tightened crossmember, checked everything from the hours of research I did on the internet. I cannot find the problem. I don't know what else to check. Front axles free spin and lock when they are supposed to. I'm at the end...
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My 1999 f-250 7.3 has been sitting for months, and I went to start it and both batteries are dead. Replaced both batteries and at first the alarm went off like normal. Turned the alarm off, hit the unlock button and it beeped like normal. Got in and stuck the key in the ignition and tried to turn it over. Completely dead. Now I cant even get the alarm to go off, showing no signs that its even getting any power. And all I'm hearing is a low clicking noise in the cab.
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I have a 2002 f350 7.3 PS that every time I touch the brake pedal it blows the #6 fuse(trailer tow brake/turn signal). I need to use my trailer.
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I have a 2003 Ford F450 super duty xl. At first there was a loud clicking sound coming from under my dash. I charged the battery up and the sound went away but the truck will fire up but not turn over and start. I thought maybe it could be the relays but the clicking sound quit.
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