I bought my 06 F250 with the V10 just 2 months ago. I have just a hair over 100k miles on it. A few weeks ago I started hearing this low pitched whine coming from the rear end - and my mechanic found metal shavings in the oil for the rear differential. It starts around 15 mph when I accelerate and it kinda sounds like a real low pitched turbo winding down as I come to a stop.
View 7 RepliesI'm having an issue with my 2001 F350 V10. A seriously annoying high pitched whining noise appeared a while ago, then disappeared, and has now come back.
It happens as soon as I start my truck, whether it's cold or warmed up already. it increases in pitch and loudness as I increase RPM, it also does exactly the same in neutral. As soon as I put it in gear (R, D, 2, 1) it completely disappears and will come back as soon as I shift back to P or N. Strangely, if I drive around town for a few minutes, when I get back home and shift to park the sound doesn't really come back, sometimes it will be faint but usually it's totally gone. But if I shut the truck off and turn it right back on again then it's there again.
It's coming from somewhere in the engine compartment or close but due to the nature of the sound it's very difficult to locate. I got underneath using a screwdriver as a stethoscope and listened to the transmission, transfer case, starter, oil pan and even the gastank and it doesn't sound like it's coming directly from any of them. While underneath I noticed power steering fluid leaking from the pump behind the pulley and dripping off the hose. Somehow though I don't think it's related as the sound disappears in gear and doesn't change at all when turning the wheels. I cleaned the fluid off and drove around a bit and it doesn't seem to be leaking too badly and my reservoir is totally full.
The truck otherwise is driving as good as it always has and whatever this sound is doesn't seem to be having any effect on performance (yet...) ...
Got a 06 F250 V8 Gas. Went to turn AC on the other week & got warm air out vents. Put 1 can of 134 in & the gauge on the "kit" said it was in the green. It was working last summer. You can turn the compressor "face" so it's not locked up, but it's not kicking in. Swapped the replay with another one & the 10a fuse in the fusebox under the steering wheel is good. Is that the only ones? I find it hard to believe that it's something serious. We did change the belt a few weeks ago & I was hoping that we had pulled a wire loose. The vacuum line that plugs into the heater hoses is plugged in.
View 14 RepliesI had have a problem with water coming into my cab on the passenger side only. 2006 Ford F250 SC 5.4L XLT 4x4
My truck has been parked for a few days and we had lots of rain in our area. I notice the floor carpet on the passenger side was wet. I did not use the heater or A/C at any time for the pass month. The water is coming in from under the dash on the passenger side only. I shook the truck and water starts pouring out of this black unit. If you look inside you can see a fan. I'm guessing a heater unit.
Can a drain be clogged on the outside under the wiper guard? I will try to remove the plastic guards tomorrow and see if anything is wrong.
250 2006 Superduty v10. Codes p2106 and p2135 ... Only occasionally when coming to a stop it shudders like it would stall. It happens for just a few seconds then ok again but wrench light comes on. After the next shut off and start the light goes out. I had the throttle control position sensor checked and they said it was ok. Got a software update at Ford. I hate to just start replacing expensive parts. I have about 60000 miles and it is a great truck otherwise.
View 1 RepliesI have an 06 f250 6.0 when I'm driving and let off the throttle and coast I hear a rattling sound like a spray paint can being shaked sounds like its coming from engine compartment.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2006 F250 Super, CrewCab 4 dr, 6.0 w/60K. Last month I tried the rear power window and .......nothing.
It tried to open 1/2 inch and then stopped, had to try to power it closed and it moved 1/4 inch and I pushed it the rest. Removed the rear cover behind the seats and I can see the motor and wires attempting to move but it does not move and I am afraid to burn the motor out or push too hard and break a cable or worse.
The track looks really dirty, I use that window maybe once every 2 months.
1. Can I replace the motor myself?
2. Can I put something in the track to clean/lubricate?
3. Should I try to open the window under power and some additional manual pushing?
I have a 2006 F250 and the other morning I came out and found the rear view mirror laying on the cab floor. No biggie, I'll just glue it back on. Then I noticed the small black decal looking thing on the inside of the windshield. My question is, does this have to come off in order to re-install the mirror with standard Permatex mirror adhesive, or do I just put adhesive on top of it? Also, is there a different, specific adhesive used here that won't crack the windshield 2 weeks from now, like I read. Took a closer look and realized they used a thin adhesive patch to attach the mirror. I'll get one from the dealer.
View 3 RepliesLooking for a breakdown for installing a new clutch pack in the rear differential of my 06 F250 Diesel sterling 10.5. I found a kit on rockauto.com but it has 4 weird looking shim things I don't recognize, I rebuilt my diff in my 03 crown vic 8.8 but there's some extra pieces in this kit I don't recall.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2004 Ford F250 Turbo Diesel, egr delete, headstuds, intake, dual stacks, etc and when i turn my wheel a loud whining noise comes from under the hood, I noticed it put tension in my brakes. When I accelerate it gets louder and when i let off the gas it goes away... i checked my fluid in my steering pump and it was low so i put some more in and the next day it was all sitting under neath the truck.... any quick fix or do i need to replace the whole pump?
View 2 RepliesMy 05 f250 5.4 has developed a whine that is easy to hear in low rpms. I don't think it goes away with higher rpms, but instead is just masked by the sound of the engine. It will do this in drive, reverse, and also when it is revved in park. What this could be?
View 10 RepliesOn my way home today I heard wind coming in around my drivers side power window. Its not seating itself straight in the weather stripping. The window is tilted toward the front of the truck. Do I need a new regulator? Or maybe re- epoxy glass to bracket? The window still operates, its just crooked. Also I haven't had those door panels off before..
View 1 RepliesI've got a 2006 F250 5.4l Super Cab. When I bought the truck the rear interior door trim panels were missing. I tried to order them straight from ford but it turns out they no longer carry them, and I can't seem to find them anywhere online. I've also looked at the salvage yards in my area- nothing. Where I would be able to find these elusive creatures?
View 3 RepliesGot off the freeway today, driving along about 40 or so thought I smelled something hot like something burning. Stopped in a parking lot and smoke was rolling out from drivers side rear wheel. Look under and oil is dripping from inside of the wheel. Figure the caliper was hung up and got so hot it took the seal out. I can't get to it right now and the shop says I can't get in until next week, need my truck now. How long could I get by the way it is IF I take it real easy.
View 9 RepliesI've been noticing a low pitched humming noise coming from what sounds like the passenger side of the engine. it happened only occasionally at first but within a week of first hearing it, it is now almost all the time. here is some specifics...
-the noise always starts about 2 or 3 seconds after starting the engine.
-the pitch or loudness does not change with increased rpms or with truck in gear driving.
-the noise randomly stops for no given reason whether driving or idling then starts back up again.
-there are no performance issues while making noise, no dip in rpms, nothing. still runs the same
I've listened with the hood up and cant identify where the noise is coming from. is this something i need to get fixed asap or no? I've got a 2001 f250 5.4 with a manual tranny ....
On my 2006 4X4, I noticed a low pitched revolving dull scraping sound when I was traveling slowly. It was more noticeable on a hard left turn. The sound increased in speed as I drove faster and slower when I backed off. My brake pads are fine with 6 month old rotors. I suspect either a bad hub bearing or U-joint on it's way out. I have approx 114k on the clock and attach an 8ft plow for my driveway alone. What's the easiest way to check?
View 4 RepliesI just bought a 2010 F250 with a 5.4. It is my 16 year old's 1st truck. He is pretty excited. Really nice truck that drives like a 2016. Anyway, it goes into 4wd fine and works fine. The hubs lock in. Everything works fine until you turn the switch to take it out of 4wd. The only thing that will take it out of 4wd is to back up and then turn the truck off and back on. Then it is fine. Both steps have to be done. I know the backing up part is normal, but what about turning the ignition switch on and off?
View 3 RepliesI have noticed that the cooling fan is coming on quite often lately. The first I noticed was yesterday when I was towing our boat up to the lake. However, this didn't really concern me because there is an almost 3,000-foot elevation gain from town to the lake, and it was around 90 degrees outside. But, when we got back into town, it seemed to be on often, and sometimes even when the truck is unloaded. Does the fan come on to assist with radiator cooling, or is it primarily for the AC? It's a 2003 F250 with a 7.3. It also comes on most of the time when I first start the truck.
View 8 RepliesI have a 1999 Ford F-250 superduty single cab. I am trying to put in rear speakers into the stock speaker housing but there are no wires run to the area. Where are the wires located in the dash to run the wire from?
View 2 RepliesIf you look at the top of the picture you can see the two bolts with fresh oil on them.
I have a 2002 Ford F250 V10 Pick up. I noticed oil leaking from under the oil pan. I wiped off the pan and bolts to see where it was coming from. The oil seems to be leaking from the rear of pan. There's always fresh oil on the rear bolts that hold the pan and I also noticed oil coming from one of the two hoses that go from the radiator to where the oil filter mounts.
But don't those hoses carry radiator fluid and not oil? I bought this truck in July and no oil leaking from underneath. It seemed to have started after I did my first oil change on it. I used regular Vavoline 5W-20 and motorcraft oil filter.
I have a (new to me about 40 days ago) 2004 F250 SD Lariat Crew Cab 4x4 6.0 diesel. 137,xxx miles.
I thought Id gotten a good "deal" on this truck when Id bought it however the last 40 days have been very expensive. The "stealership" I bought the truck from was on a 35mph rd and I couldn't test drive it at highway speeds. So I bought the thing "knowing" there were a few "minor" sniggles wrong... however once about 15 miles from the dealership/stealership and on a highway, the real fun began.
I had a terrible shake, shimmy and groan/whine at speed no matter if the truck was in gear or not.
Since that time ive repaired/replaced:
1) Both front hubs/bearings
2) Both front hub locks
3) Both front brakes and calipers
4) 4 New Hankook tires
5) Ford Dealership Diesel engine service/lube (essentially an expensive oil change)
6) Ford Dealership transmission service
7) Drained (with a siphon) and refilled the rear differential + OEM Ford friction mod.
Ive eliminated problem after problem after problem with this thing.... and yes, the truck does get better with each repair HOWEVER.... Ive still had this groan/whine from the rear end of the truck and a rumble from starting at a dead stop despite my changing out the gear oil in the rear diff.
So I take it today to a local shop (that I trust/sort of) for a 2nd opinion. Their technician takes the truck out for a test run and comes back in 10 min saying he has no clue but the sound was annoying and he'd need to put it on a lift if I could wait.
I saw the truck go up... a few parts get wiggled, some head scratching, saw the truck go down, watched another tech jump in and 2 techs run it out for a test drive.
When it came back, I watched the truck go up again on the lift... this time however they just lifted the rear and with one guy in a pit the other revved the motor. I watched as the wheels spun. A few minutes later both techs came in and said my "rear differential was shot".
They pulled the diff mag plug which was caked in metal deposits. It looked the same when I pulled it off the first time and did the fluid change (yes i cleaned off the plug before putting it back). I had seen differentials (in the past) have deposits like that before on plugs but the units were still good and such deposits were considered casualty of wear and tear.
However im being told the rear end is shot.. When I inquired about just replacing the internals of the diff, it was a simple bolt in/bolt out job.