Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2006 F250 - Tow / Haul Light Flashing
Sep 28, 2015
So coming home yesterday from our camping trip the tow/haul light started to flash. this was about 40 miles into the trip. So we pulled over, the tranny fluid looked low, so I added a little more. The light stopped flashing, but maybe another 20 miles it started again, we pulled over and it stopped. We got to a rest stop and after about 20 minutes, I called Good Sams Roadside, there tech said to take it out of tow/haul mode and so we left the rest stop and it was good for just about 40 miles.
We hit another rest stop, at this point we were about 80 miles from home. I did not feel any difference in the truck shifting or if it was acting different. The light flashed again, sometimes going off, then coming back on. We hit two more rest stops, letting the truck rest. We left the last rest stop, we were already halfway up a big hill on the Mass Pike and after 5 miles the light came on, but then after a few miles it stop and from that point to my house ( which was just over 50 miles) it never came back on.
The truck is a 2006 F250 gas that just hit 100,000 miles. New motor put in over the winter and a few years back had the cam phasers and some work done on it. Could this be some sensors, etc that is starting to go and needs to be replaced?
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Looking for a diagram of where the transmission temp sensor is found ..... I have a 2005 f 250 5.4l FX4.... My tow haul light keeps flashing...
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Experiencing a melt down with one of my trucks. One of our trucks is an 06 F250 SD with 80k on a 5.4L and the other day the tow/haul light started to flash. I took it to a buddy's repair shop (who is an experienced Ford tech and tranny guy) any way, it shifted fine until about the last 1/2 mile before I got to his shop, then it started shifting in and out of different gears. He found solenoid "A" pressure solenoid failure and one other solenoid failure, he replaced all 7 solenoids and also found the pigtail from the transmission to the wire harness bad as well and replaced that. I pick it up and get about a mile down the road and the light starts to flash again so I took it back, he ran his scanner and now found something with the coast clutch and through all his testing it told him the coast clutch needs replaced. He removed the trans. and tore it all down and found nothing wrong with anything, in fact he said everything looked in great shape and thinks the pcm failed.
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I've got a 2006 f250 with 160,000 miles, trans was rebuilt by previous owner about 10,000 miles ago. The tow/haul light started blinking yesterday, only blinks for first couple of minutes of driving and then stops. Service engine light popped on today as well. Won't have access to a code reader until tomorrow, but looking for some preliminary info...
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Well I went about 20mi to pickup a door for my inlaws. Get about a mile from home and my tow haul light is flashing. Truck starts shifting strange then I smell it trans fluid. If course I get stopped by a red light shut it down. Started and had to rev to get it to move now four houses away from home coast into the drive shut it off and trans fluid is covering the entire bottom of my truck. Even the rear tires inside are covered. I had the wife crank it and I blew a trans line near the ext. trans oil filter. What are the chances that I did not toast my trans? No prior shifting or slipping problems before this mishap.
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I have a 2006 6.0. It's hard to put into to drive and for you to get it moving you have to just about floor it. The tow haul light is flashing but my bullydog won't pull the codes. It stops moving after like 30 to 40 ft after you got it moving and acts like it's in natural. If you turn it off and back on it sometimes will move another 30 to 40 ft sometimes. It also sometimes if you put it in reverse won't let you give it gas. Like you can push the pedal but the rpms won't climb for this reason I'm thinking something to with a solenoid or fuse or something along those lines and also because if you restart it will move again. I don't know much about transmission. I'm taking it to a shop tomorrow for them to try and read the codes. If they say the transmission is toast i already located another one 2 hours away to swap in which I'll do myself to avoid the high cost of the shop which also I'll look to yall for guidance. I drained some of the transmission fluid and didn't see any metal flakes. Should I pull the pan as well and look if nothing is coming out in the trans fluid ?
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I have a 2006 F350 SRW 4WD 6.0 with 127000 miles on it. A couple of weeks ago it, pulling out of my driveway, it hesitated and tow haul started flashing. I had codes pulled and it showed P1780, P0751, and P2700. After turning off, codes were gone and tow haul off. Ran fine since then every day. Yesterday while going about 50 mph it started acting like it was in neutral (revving up), nothing happened when mashing the accelerator. Coasted to a driveway and truck would not move, only sounded like it was in neutral.
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So I was driving my 2004 6.0 auto on the freeway today when the tow haul light randomly started flashing, nothing felt wrong until I stopped, then when I went to pull away it wouldn't shift down from 5th according to my livewire ts says under the commanded gear gauge. It shifts into 6 and overdrive fine. I turned the truck off, the light went off but as soon as I put it in drive it jumped around from 1-2-5 and back down until it locked in 5 again and the light started flashing again. What this could be?
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I have a 2000 F350 7.3 4x4. It began giving intermittent tow/haul flashing light, when going up or down hill but would clear and drive next time truck was cycled off/on. No ABS lights and code reader generated P0720 for the output speed sensor, now I can get it to generate just driving slowly fwd and rev a few times. All of this has been in the last few days.
Truck will stall if I take it up a slight incline with the fault. I replaced the sensor on the top front of the 4r100 transmission and also replaced the sensor on the rear differential after giving up on looking for an output sensor on the transmission. I know the 2WD transmissions have an output sensor but is there one on the 4WD version? I have read several past threads discussing the P0720. I am hoping to confirm what sensor I need to be looking at and where it is located in this application.
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I have a 2007f550 auto trans with a flashing tow/haul light and a code of po791 coming up. Flashing light will clear in k/o position and remain off until placing selector in drive,after two feet or so of travel,an audible clunk and the trans acts like it is in third gear. Reverse is no change and highway will not shift into o.d. The iss "A" is listed as the culprit but ford doesn't list a iss a.
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I have a 2004 F250 Torqshift trans, 155,000 miles. It has had a slight hesitation when trans is engaged for about 4 years, not a problem the dealer has no fix they said.
Now today for the first time I had a tow haul light come on while driving on the freeway. It would not go into overdrive and the light keep blinking. Later in the day, I let it cool down and it drove fine to the store about 2 miles. When I got in to drive home it had tow haul light go blinking and check engine light came on this time.
I hooked up my code reader and it's giving codes: P0720, P0751 and P0766.
Should I take it to the Ford dealer, a Transmission shop or have a friend who worked at Ford Dealer do the Work? I see that some people have changed out the TFT sensor and corrected the problem. While the pan is down should I just have all the shift solenoid sensors changed?
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While in Tow/Haul with my 5th wheel when slowing down probably at 5 or 10 mph the last downshift is very hard and the brake pedal gets real soft until full stop. Afterwards the brake pedal is firm. Tow/Haul without the trailer is fine. It's an '06 F250 Supercrew 4x4.
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1998 F-250 LD 4x4 463,000 km.
My truck begins to flash the OD light after driving about 10 km. So I borrowed a friend's scan tool and got a P0503, and P1500. So having been pointed to the vehicle speed sensor, I connected TORQUE and watched closely vehicle speed. Driving at a steady 80 kph it will jump rapidly up and down, from about 72-92, while the gauge in the instrument cluster reads a calm and steady 80.
Which sensor and wiring do I need to inspect? Rear diff or on the back of transfer case? Oh, and the ABS light is NOT on.
Sent from Nexus 4. IB AutoGroup
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I recentlyHad to replace the right front wheel bearing and after the install the speedometer and turn signals don't work, the ABS light is on and the overdrive light on the shifter is flashing. I've replaced the VSS on the rear diff, pulled and cleaned Speed sensors on front hub?
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Tonight i noticed overdrive flashing. No changes in shifting, truck shifted fine. I shut it off when i got home, started back up, light was not blinking, not sure if its like the check engine light and stays on or not. Where light blinks but shifts fine?
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OK, quick question. I have an '03 250 with the 5.4 and the OD light began flashing tonight. I looked in the forums here and everyone say's new tranny or sensor but over on the diesel forums the are saying that the alternator is a big cause of this (dirty power).
At the beginning of this year I noticed what I assumed to be a misfire when putting the motor under a load. Once up to speed it would smooth out and all was good. I was told that a plug job on these trucks is hellish and expensive since a lot of guys break the plugs off in the block. I put it off and the issue went away when the weather warmed up.
Now it's getting cold again and the misfire is back. Driving home tonight the truck died at a light. I restarted it and as I accelerated I noticed a difference in the shift from first to second and then saw the OD light blinking.
Again, the diesel guys are all talking alternator so my question is this: could the alternator cause both the OD light to flash AND the misfire? If the "dirty power" can cause the tranny to fall in to safe mode, can it also cause the ignition to be problematic?
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I have an 04 F250 4x4 king ranch with a 6.8 V10.
When I first bought this truck it had a problem of stalling out at stops. You could sometimes hold the brake and gas and push your way through it but it would sputter for a second and try to die and then it was fine once you got going. The OD light would flash, check engine light would come on and it would throw a P0720 code for the OSS. I did some researching and I pulled the sensor in the pumpkin before that because I read that could cause the same problem, so I cleaned it and put it back but it didn't solve the issue. Then found that an K&N air filter can often times clog the MAF and cause the issue so I pulled my air filter and sure enough it was a K&N, I swapped it with a normal filter and sprayed some MAF cleaner and its been running like a top for months... until now.
It started again, gradually at first. It would die when I started to back the truck at a very low speed to load my 4 wheeler. I fired it up and it was good again for a couple more weeks, then I went to hook to a horse trailer and I was having to back up a hill to get to it, and it just kept dying, OD light would flash, check engine light came on. I was in a bind so I just tried wiping off the MAF with a rag, that didn't work, my girlfriend was using the truck and said it kept dying whenever she stopped. I got it home and cleaned the MAF with cleaner really well but the problem persisted. I went ahead and changed my oil, spark plugs(gaped at .052-.054), replaced the IAC(which looked like it had been installed once before so I am guessing someone tried it and when it didn't fix the problem they returned it) and changed the fuel filter. I drove it around and it ran fine, drove it to work and it ran fine, my girlfriend took it for about 15 minutes to run an errand for me and it was fine until she got back in the parking lot and liked to never got it parked again it stalled so much.
So I went back to the drawing board and read that it is rarely the OSS that is the problem but that often times the issue is a bad coil pack. I don't have a scanner nor do I know how the heck to use one. I plan on going out of town at the end of the week and the truck has 194k miles on it so rather then take it to a shop and try to find out which COP was bad I just decided to replace all of them(I know, I know, you should never just start replacing parts). I only had time to replace 5 of them, I took the truck out and again it dove fine for an hour, went through traffic OK. It sat for an hour and when I left it started to die again, I could drop it in neutral and it would fire back up and as long as I gave it just a hair of throttle it stayed running fine, take my foot off the fuel and in a minute it would die again. After I drove for a bit it was fine again. Now I know the problem may yet be in the remaining 5 COP that I must change tonight but in case it is not I wanted to get input on this.
I've read the problem can come from a bad ground, so I took every ground point that I could find under the hood and I cleaned the connectors and took the paint off at the connection site just for good measure. The problem persists. I've read that sometimes a diode can go out on the alternator and cause this problem, I did use my amp meter and I'm checking out at 13 volts while running. I'm not the best with meters so I'm not sure how else to check the diode?
I've also read that taking it to a dealership is hit or miss for them diagnosing the problem, sometimes they find the issue, sometimes they just change the OSS. The only mechanic I trust closed his shop and is now service manager of the Dodge dealership. I'm thinking since this seems to be a common problem that maybe ford might have more knowledge of it then dodge but I trust the dodge dealership more because of who is over it. Either way I know it will sit in a dealership for awhile before it ever gets looked at and if they have to chase any electrical problems then that starts racking up $$ fast.
So what am I missing? I've thought about replacing the MAF since cleaning it the first time solved the problem. When it did this the first time I still had my 01 F250(it never gave me problems like this) and so I took the MAF off of it and swapped them and sure enough it fixed my problem so I switched them back after I cleaned the MAF and like I said it's been running fine until recently. I'd rather not throw money at this by replacing parts and hoping for the best. I've also read about tracing the harness that runs from the sensor on the pumpkin to the OSS and on. That harness runs through all kinds of stuff so I'm dreading that but it will also be a next step. I haven't pulled the OSS because its in a very awkward position on my truck.
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1999 F-250 7.3 Ext Cab 4X4... I just got this truck and it started having the 4x4 light flashing or flickering while driving and sitting?
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What this could be? It blinks all the time was on the truck when I got it. Has a button in the bottom of it. This is on a 2009 super duty 250 and the 6.4 L if that matters.
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I'm installing a new amber light on my 2013 F250 signal cab and was wondering where most people run the wires into the cab. It has a magnetic mount and I didn't want to put a hole in the roof. I have a cap on the truck and I also don't have a sliding rear window. This will not be a temp. install. Putting the wires in through a hole in the 3rd brake light?
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F250 7.3L diesel started to flash OD light, goes into limp mode, code p1747. No other codes. Have had issues for a couple of years where the truck would not shift into gear for awhile; sometimes a couple of minutes till it would engage. Have done lots of diagnostics. Visual check harness. Have 12v on pins 1&12 on harness at transmission plug. Plug had some ATF visible, but cleaned it up and continuity good. (with 4" exhaust hard to get to connector).
Checked all solenoid wires with a DVM back to plug at PCM for continuity and shorts, all good. Pulled transmission pack and checked resistance on all solenoids except temp varistor all within specs. Removed Banks Trans Command and rewired tranny plug and pulled Ottomind chip from PCM. Still goes into limp mode and throws code. Did not see any bad solder joints or burns inside PCM by the way.
Seems like PCM right? But here is a complication to my issues. For over a year I have been having electrical issues like the radio not working and windows not working intermittently after starting up. After running for awhile or on restart would work fine. Sounds like the Instrument Cluster issues or relays.(?)
Will be pulling IC and checking for any bad solder joints. However, did not throw p1747 till just recently and now my radio has really gone wonky. It comes on when key is on automatically and then proceeds to cycle through settings; AM-FM-CD.
So questions are, "Is it possible that a bad Instrument Cluster can cause a p1747 code?" "Bad Ground to Tranny" "Can a bad PCM cause a electrical issue in IC??" "Are these 2 separate issues?"
2002 f250 7.3L, 4R100 automatic trans, ~180,000miles
Banks Stinger package, 4" exhaust, TransCommand, (now removed).
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