I'm installing a new amber light on my 2013 F250 signal cab and was wondering where most people run the wires into the cab. It has a magnetic mount and I didn't want to put a hole in the roof. I have a cap on the truck and I also don't have a sliding rear window. This will not be a temp. install. Putting the wires in through a hole in the 3rd brake light?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2013 F250 that I am installing a amber warning beacon on. I need to be able to get the end of the electrical cable into the cab of the truck but it has a 12 volt lighter plug on the end that cannot come off. Is there a rubber plug somewhere in the cab that I can route the cable through?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2010 f250 XL v10 6 speed 4wd. I was looking into adding factory fog lights to it. I have the factory plug by the headlight. I've read that some XL trucks just need the fog lights, wiring harness for the lights and the headlight switch with the fog light option.
So today my buddy (has an 09 f250 xlt with factory fog lights) and I decided to try his headlight switch in my truck to see if it would send power to the plug by the headlight. Plugged it in, turned the fog lights on and had no power. Actually the little fog light light on the switch didn't light up that I noticed either. So we compared wiring harnesses going to the headlight switch. Both trucks have 9 wires. #21 fuse in the kick panel is intact and good.
What else my truck would need in order to use the factory fog light parts? I know I could run new wiring and use an aftermarket switch but I'd rather it be factory.
I just ordered a set of Hella 4000x driving lights for my 2006 F-250. I have an aftermarket bumper on it, so the fog lights were taken out as there was no place to put them once the new bumper was installed. The question is, will I have any issues hooking the new driving lights up directly to the fog light system so I can just run them off the fog light switch instead of having to install the new switch on my dashboard? I know the new lights are 12V, but I couldn't find info as to whether the fog lights were running 12V as well.
View 2 RepliesI am looking into replacing my cab light bulbs with amber led's. What ones do you recommend? There are so many available out there. I don't want some cheap crap! Also, what is the bulb type in are in the mirrors for the parking light and turn signal?
View 2 Replies1998 F-250 LD 4x4 463,000 km.
My truck begins to flash the OD light after driving about 10 km. So I borrowed a friend's scan tool and got a P0503, and P1500. So having been pointed to the vehicle speed sensor, I connected TORQUE and watched closely vehicle speed. Driving at a steady 80 kph it will jump rapidly up and down, from about 72-92, while the gauge in the instrument cluster reads a calm and steady 80.
Which sensor and wiring do I need to inspect? Rear diff or on the back of transfer case? Oh, and the ABS light is NOT on.
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I recentlyHad to replace the right front wheel bearing and after the install the speedometer and turn signals don't work, the ABS light is on and the overdrive light on the shifter is flashing. I've replaced the VSS on the rear diff, pulled and cleaned Speed sensors on front hub?
View 2 RepliesTonight i noticed overdrive flashing. No changes in shifting, truck shifted fine. I shut it off when i got home, started back up, light was not blinking, not sure if its like the check engine light and stays on or not. Where light blinks but shifts fine?
View 10 RepliesOK, quick question. I have an '03 250 with the 5.4 and the OD light began flashing tonight. I looked in the forums here and everyone say's new tranny or sensor but over on the diesel forums the are saying that the alternator is a big cause of this (dirty power).
At the beginning of this year I noticed what I assumed to be a misfire when putting the motor under a load. Once up to speed it would smooth out and all was good. I was told that a plug job on these trucks is hellish and expensive since a lot of guys break the plugs off in the block. I put it off and the issue went away when the weather warmed up.
Now it's getting cold again and the misfire is back. Driving home tonight the truck died at a light. I restarted it and as I accelerated I noticed a difference in the shift from first to second and then saw the OD light blinking.
Again, the diesel guys are all talking alternator so my question is this: could the alternator cause both the OD light to flash AND the misfire? If the "dirty power" can cause the tranny to fall in to safe mode, can it also cause the ignition to be problematic?
Looking for a diagram of where the transmission temp sensor is found ..... I have a 2005 f 250 5.4l FX4.... My tow haul light keeps flashing...
View 4 RepliesI have an 04 F250 4x4 king ranch with a 6.8 V10.
When I first bought this truck it had a problem of stalling out at stops. You could sometimes hold the brake and gas and push your way through it but it would sputter for a second and try to die and then it was fine once you got going. The OD light would flash, check engine light would come on and it would throw a P0720 code for the OSS. I did some researching and I pulled the sensor in the pumpkin before that because I read that could cause the same problem, so I cleaned it and put it back but it didn't solve the issue. Then found that an K&N air filter can often times clog the MAF and cause the issue so I pulled my air filter and sure enough it was a K&N, I swapped it with a normal filter and sprayed some MAF cleaner and its been running like a top for months... until now.
It started again, gradually at first. It would die when I started to back the truck at a very low speed to load my 4 wheeler. I fired it up and it was good again for a couple more weeks, then I went to hook to a horse trailer and I was having to back up a hill to get to it, and it just kept dying, OD light would flash, check engine light came on. I was in a bind so I just tried wiping off the MAF with a rag, that didn't work, my girlfriend was using the truck and said it kept dying whenever she stopped. I got it home and cleaned the MAF with cleaner really well but the problem persisted. I went ahead and changed my oil, spark plugs(gaped at .052-.054), replaced the IAC(which looked like it had been installed once before so I am guessing someone tried it and when it didn't fix the problem they returned it) and changed the fuel filter. I drove it around and it ran fine, drove it to work and it ran fine, my girlfriend took it for about 15 minutes to run an errand for me and it was fine until she got back in the parking lot and liked to never got it parked again it stalled so much.
So I went back to the drawing board and read that it is rarely the OSS that is the problem but that often times the issue is a bad coil pack. I don't have a scanner nor do I know how the heck to use one. I plan on going out of town at the end of the week and the truck has 194k miles on it so rather then take it to a shop and try to find out which COP was bad I just decided to replace all of them(I know, I know, you should never just start replacing parts). I only had time to replace 5 of them, I took the truck out and again it dove fine for an hour, went through traffic OK. It sat for an hour and when I left it started to die again, I could drop it in neutral and it would fire back up and as long as I gave it just a hair of throttle it stayed running fine, take my foot off the fuel and in a minute it would die again. After I drove for a bit it was fine again. Now I know the problem may yet be in the remaining 5 COP that I must change tonight but in case it is not I wanted to get input on this.
I've read the problem can come from a bad ground, so I took every ground point that I could find under the hood and I cleaned the connectors and took the paint off at the connection site just for good measure. The problem persists. I've read that sometimes a diode can go out on the alternator and cause this problem, I did use my amp meter and I'm checking out at 13 volts while running. I'm not the best with meters so I'm not sure how else to check the diode?
I've also read that taking it to a dealership is hit or miss for them diagnosing the problem, sometimes they find the issue, sometimes they just change the OSS. The only mechanic I trust closed his shop and is now service manager of the Dodge dealership. I'm thinking since this seems to be a common problem that maybe ford might have more knowledge of it then dodge but I trust the dodge dealership more because of who is over it. Either way I know it will sit in a dealership for awhile before it ever gets looked at and if they have to chase any electrical problems then that starts racking up $$ fast.
So what am I missing? I've thought about replacing the MAF since cleaning it the first time solved the problem. When it did this the first time I still had my 01 F250(it never gave me problems like this) and so I took the MAF off of it and swapped them and sure enough it fixed my problem so I switched them back after I cleaned the MAF and like I said it's been running fine until recently. I'd rather not throw money at this by replacing parts and hoping for the best. I've also read about tracing the harness that runs from the sensor on the pumpkin to the OSS and on. That harness runs through all kinds of stuff so I'm dreading that but it will also be a next step. I haven't pulled the OSS because its in a very awkward position on my truck.
So coming home yesterday from our camping trip the tow/haul light started to flash. this was about 40 miles into the trip. So we pulled over, the tranny fluid looked low, so I added a little more. The light stopped flashing, but maybe another 20 miles it started again, we pulled over and it stopped. We got to a rest stop and after about 20 minutes, I called Good Sams Roadside, there tech said to take it out of tow/haul mode and so we left the rest stop and it was good for just about 40 miles.
We hit another rest stop, at this point we were about 80 miles from home. I did not feel any difference in the truck shifting or if it was acting different. The light flashed again, sometimes going off, then coming back on. We hit two more rest stops, letting the truck rest. We left the last rest stop, we were already halfway up a big hill on the Mass Pike and after 5 miles the light came on, but then after a few miles it stop and from that point to my house ( which was just over 50 miles) it never came back on.
The truck is a 2006 F250 gas that just hit 100,000 miles. New motor put in over the winter and a few years back had the cam phasers and some work done on it. Could this be some sensors, etc that is starting to go and needs to be replaced?
1999 F-250 7.3 Ext Cab 4X4... I just got this truck and it started having the 4x4 light flashing or flickering while driving and sitting?
View 3 RepliesWhat this could be? It blinks all the time was on the truck when I got it. Has a button in the bottom of it. This is on a 2009 super duty 250 and the 6.4 L if that matters.
View 3 RepliesF250 7.3L diesel started to flash OD light, goes into limp mode, code p1747. No other codes. Have had issues for a couple of years where the truck would not shift into gear for awhile; sometimes a couple of minutes till it would engage. Have done lots of diagnostics. Visual check harness. Have 12v on pins 1&12 on harness at transmission plug. Plug had some ATF visible, but cleaned it up and continuity good. (with 4" exhaust hard to get to connector).
Checked all solenoid wires with a DVM back to plug at PCM for continuity and shorts, all good. Pulled transmission pack and checked resistance on all solenoids except temp varistor all within specs. Removed Banks Trans Command and rewired tranny plug and pulled Ottomind chip from PCM. Still goes into limp mode and throws code. Did not see any bad solder joints or burns inside PCM by the way.
Seems like PCM right? But here is a complication to my issues. For over a year I have been having electrical issues like the radio not working and windows not working intermittently after starting up. After running for awhile or on restart would work fine. Sounds like the Instrument Cluster issues or relays.(?)
Will be pulling IC and checking for any bad solder joints. However, did not throw p1747 till just recently and now my radio has really gone wonky. It comes on when key is on automatically and then proceeds to cycle through settings; AM-FM-CD.
So questions are, "Is it possible that a bad Instrument Cluster can cause a p1747 code?" "Bad Ground to Tranny" "Can a bad PCM cause a electrical issue in IC??" "Are these 2 separate issues?"
2002 f250 7.3L, 4R100 automatic trans, ~180,000miles
Banks Stinger package, 4" exhaust, TransCommand, (now removed).
I have a 2010 F250 super duty. I use it for work so I am not sure what happened to it as others have driven it, but here is the issue. When i start it up in 2wd, the 4x4 Low light flashes continually. If I turn the switch to 4x4 high, the 4x4 high light flashes continually. if i turn it to 4x4 low, that light flashes continually. I have read the forums but haven't been able to find the problem/diagnosis for this.
View 2 RepliesJust got the transmission rebuilt in my truck and other then shifting hard sometimes it has been doing great, Hooked it up to the goose neck this evening and everything was fine then went to back it up and pull it forward and after a short distance the od light was flashing and when i ran a check on it it was p0720? The transmission has less then 1000 miles on it?!?!? 1999 Ford F-250 7.3 Automatic....
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 F250, 5.4, 4X4. My ignition key stuck in the start position and when I pulled it back to the run position, everything seemed ok. As I started down the road, my speedometer stopped working and my overdrive light was flashing. Also my turn signals had stopped working and my A/C clutch didn't engage. Figured I burnt a fuse. I looked in both the under dash and power distribution box and all seemed well. I checked the fuse for the turn signals/flasher and it was fine. The flashers worked. Thought I might have fried something so I replaced the ignition lock and switch. Also my service engine light came on throwing a code for the vehicle speed sensor.
Looking for solutions on this forum and the internet, I learned that the turn signal switch could have gone bad and the VSS sensor is on the top of the rear dif and an easy fix. Well replaced the sensor but nothing changed. So I went back to the fuse box. Examined every fuse, big and small and I found a 10a with a small space. This was #24 under the dash. From the manual, "#24, 10A, A/C clutch, Blend Door Actuator, Trailer Tow Battery Charge Relay Coil, Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS), Turn Signal." Replaced it and everything went back to normal. Turn signals work, A/C clutch works, no flashing overdrive light and speedometer works. All from a 10A fuse. If you have any of these symptoms examine all the fuses carefully. There's a 20A fuse for turn/hazard lamps and this other one buried that's only 10A.
My father-in-law has a 2008 f-250 with the 5.4. as he was driving a while back all the gauges of the dash quit. The engine still kept running without any noticeable difference but when he shut the engine off and tried to restart, it wouldn't even crank but the security light was flashing. He tried starting it again a few hours later and it started just like normal and ran fine.
He has had this problem occur several times in the last few months, but the other day it repeated the problem again and would not restart for about 5 days. He has tried charging the batteries, changing relays, checking all fuses and finding none blown, scanned it with his code reader, and checked the steering column for bare or rubbed wires.
I have a 2013 F250 and to day the TPMS light came on with a low tire warning message. A little back history, I put new tires on the truck when I bought it and they currently have 9200 miles on them. I didn't like having the tires at the 80psi the tire shop set them at so I lowered them to 62psi right away and haven't had any issues with the low pressure warning going off. Today I was backing into a parking spot and the warning light came on with a low tire message. I checked all the tires and they were right where they should be, but when I got home I added another 5psi to see what would happen and the light never went off after taking it on a 10 mile drive.
My question is, do I have a wheel sensor issue or is something messed up in the computer? I know the door sticker says 75psi front/80rear, but I've been running the tires at 62psi for 9200 miles without trouble so I can't think that the pressure is the culprit. Also, does the spare tire have a sensor in it? In the manual in one paragraph it seemed like it does, but in the next it said that the spare doesn't have one so the light will stay on to remind you to change the spare out.
Just this morning I tried to remote start my '13 F250 6.7 and all i got was the doors lock and a two honks. The two honks are usually when there is a door left open when you click the lock button two times but all of my doors were locked. After I started the truck with the key and took it out to go run a errand I noticed the check engine light turned on. Could this be connected or just a coincidence?
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