Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2006 F350 - Cannot Find AC Freon Leak
Apr 3, 2015
I had a new engine put into my 2006 F350 SD 5.4 last year and ever since then I can't keep the freon charged in my ac. The mechanic said all he did was lay the compressor out of the way and didn't disconnect anything ac related. I have 2 different shops keep my truck for a couple days and neither could find a leak. Yet a month later, freon is low. I think I have more dye in my system than freon.
I put 2 of those ac leak sealers, the ones you have to ask for behind the counter and can keep my ac working for maybe 45 days, then throw 3 cans in it. No dye is showing up nor will the sniffer find anything. I hate to go to the dealer because I figure they will want to replace everything. Any tips other than try another shop and maybe they can find the leak.
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Seems like my 2001 f350 7.3 has an ac freon leak on pass side near compressor. AC is blowing coolish air but not cold like is should be. There is green like oil around main line leading out of ac compressor. I have attached several pics to illustrate situation.
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When I put my 06 f350 in 4x4 my ac defaults to defrost. I assume this means a vacuum leak. My question is, is the white tube supposed to be open for air intake or plugged off with something?
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Got an '01 f350 v10, auto. When using steering column shifter tends to be hard to find reverse and drive. Is it something in steering column selector or is it in tranny? The truck has 40,000 miles on it. Have a parts truck also so just trying to figure out where to start first.
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I'm just a shade tree mechanic try to diagnose a hot crank no start condition on my 2006 F-350 6.0 that I purchased second hand about six months ago. I first took it to a diesel shop to have them fix it and the mechanic told me that the stand pipes and dummy plugs needed changing out but couldn't tell me 100% if that would fix the hot no start problem.. I have been reading a lot about this problem and it seems that the snap to connect fitting on the HPOP is the most common problem on these trucks. It seemed easy enough to do so I went after it only to find it was already replaced with the updated part.
I went ahead and changed it anyway but it obviously didn't work. So today I pressurized the system through the ICP port with my small harbor freight compressor up to 80 psi and forced the IPR valve closed with 12v. I then listened for a leak in the passenger side valve cover with a hose stuck in the oil fill cap, the driver side cover from some drain hole under the air filter housing and in the oil filter housing. I could hear a mild hissing from the driver side and the oil filter housing but it was clearly louder from the oil fill on the passenger side. This leads me to believe I have a top seal leak from one of the injectors on the passenger side, but not 100% sure. Should I be hearing anything at all from the driver side and from the oil filter housing if its a bad seal in the passenger side?
Another problem I just found out I have seems like maybe fuel in the oil. I done a oil change this week after 3500 miles since last change and drained out five gallons of oil!! The oil seemed really thin. My coolant level is still good so the only thing I can think of is fuel dilution. Could this possibly be the same o ring or injector that is causing my hpo leak or something else? Will a bubble or balloon test diagnose this?
I bought a cheap OBD2 reader that works on my Ipad with a app called Dashcommand so I can see what codes were stored. The codes are...
P0401- Exhaust Gas Recirculation A Flow Insufficient Detected (EGR has been deleted)
P0528-Fan Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0670-Glow Plug Control Circuit/Open
P0683-Glow Plug Control Module to PCM Communication Circuit
P2290-Injection Control Pressure Too Low
So far my thoughts are to replace the injector and nipple cup seals to take care of the hpo leak. Once I have the valve cover off, clean the injectors real good and cycle the fuel pump with turning the key on and inspect the injectors for a fuel leak. Is there a better way than this?
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Of course my freon all leaked out of the AC compressor and it is squealing pretty bad. I did not want the serpentine belt to break due to a seized compressor so I looked for a bypass pulley kit. Naturally they make one for both gas engines, but not for the diesel. So out comes the string and sharpie, and trips to 2 different auto parts place to get the correct length belt after trying several that were too short. It's 103 inches (8 groove) for future reference to bypass the ac compressor and upper extra pulley. 7.3 diesel.....
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I noticed an oil leak out of the front housing of my 2016 350. I have 3 Ford dealers nearby and all 3 can't get me in until 8 August. It looks to be just a few drops daily. Is it safe to drive pulling a 5th wheel until they get me in? The leak is at the bottom of the housing.
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I got water leak after wash my f-350. My lock stopped work and when I opened fuse box I found lil water on fuse box cover. I'm wondering about any other solution before I try replace the seals on windshield
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03 f350 5.4. Very minor coolant leak at the moment. Valley behind water pump looks a little damp and leak has shown a little on the passenger side block above the starter. Shows on the tranny bell housing and hits the y pipe every once and a while. I am thinking its the hose that runs under the intake manifold but wanted to check in here for some wisdom. Can it be bypassed or rerun without pulling everything.
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I have a 2002 V10 F350 6.8L that I recently purchased at auction and am fixing up. I've made good progress already and replaced many of the suspension components so that the tuck drives straight. It does however have an oil leak that seems to manifest of heavy acceleration.
I'm not sure exactly where from as I have not crawled under the car, but I can see a drip land right on the Y pipe coming out the exhaust manifolds. There is enough of a drip to create quite a smoke storm under the hood. Any common areas to look for?
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2003 F350 short bed 6.8L V10---On start up a slight tap sound, almost like a cranky lifter, but it is an exhaust manifold leak. At the bolts, I am not sure. This has been this way for 5 years, no better no worse. After I run about 2 to 3 minutes it seals itself. Not a hint of noise. Due to heat, something is expanding to seal it (aluminum).
At my annual PA. State Safety Inspection the Tech says 'that has to be corrected if it worsens', but It does not fail inspection. This puzzles me.
How is the call made for correction. A flip of the coin, a guess and is it serious enough to fail inspection. Is this normal with the 6.8L or V10s. I know the cost involved for a fix is big league, but can it be justified. TRUCK RUNS GREAT !---
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So I've worked on this A/C for 3 years, I don't drive this truck very much or often, partly because the A/C doesn't blow cold. Its a 99 f250 7.3 ... Here's what I've done, first it was low on Freon so I added some and it got cold, take off driving and it gets hot. After some research I check the clutch air gap and pull a washer. This changes nothing, I put a valve on the heater core, so I could manually shut it off just in case.
This year I replace the compressor because the clutch isn't staying engaged when I revved it up in neutral. I went ahead and replaced the drier and Orifice Tube, the orifice tube was clogged up. So I start recharging the system, and I get 2 3/4 cans in and its blowing cold, low 50's high 40's its 75 degrees outside. The gauges read 35 low and 300 high, I'm a little confused cause it was suppose to hold 41oz from what I looked up but ok.
I rev the motor just to check everything out, the low side heads down for a second then starts going up, the high side starts going up and doesn't stop. The high side goes all the way till it hit the high pressure switch 450 wow. I'm thinking its over charged, I let it idle and the compressor kicks on and the low is around 50 and the high is at 350. So I rev it up again 1800 rpms or so, and the low side drops down and so does the high side. Except this time the low side drops down to 15 " I had the low pressure switch unhooked and looped" and the high side around 225.
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So I have an 05 f350 5.4 with the shift on the fly and the auto/manual locking hubs.. I already know I have a leak with the vacuum and I just use the hubs manually, then shift on the fly to activate the transfer case.
I went to use the 4wd the other night in a snow storm and I have no 4wd, light on the dash comes on and i can hear the transfer case clicking in when i hit the switch between 2wd and 4wd.
So I got under the truck while it was on the ground and manually locked the passenger side, Then tried spinning the axle and it wont spin freely, so obviously its locked.
Tried the same thing on the driver side and the axle spins freely while the hub is locked, So obviously the locking part of the hub is no good... So i guess my question is, even with just 1 wheel locking in the front, shouldn't I pretty much get 3wd? or am i missing something...will it not engage at all because both sides arent locked?
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I recently came a cross a no start issue with my truck. It is 2005 ford f350 6.0 ... Found out I have a leak in the high pressure system. When I was taking out the bolts out from the manifold I stripped out two bolts. I know ford part # w301383 is the ford bolt. But I was thinking why use that same bolt and had have that issue again later.
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Filled up the windshield washer tank this morning and could not get the sprayer to work. Looked under the truck and it looks like all I put in is on the drive. Any one else had issues with 2011 F350 washer tanks?
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my truck at 210k miles got a new radiator (seeping at seams), thermostat, water pump (bearings shot, leaking), intake manifold (The crossover was leaking). It now has 227k miles. Oil leak in rear at head gasket by starter (bad head gasket?) It overheated the other day( blowing coolant out the expansion tank needle in the red) Replaced thermostat. Drove around for two full hours, seemed fine, Drove to work today it overheated ( same thing, blowing coolant needle pegged) didn't make it to work. There are no external leaks and its not putting steam or white smoke out the exhaust. I read somewhere that a blown head gasket could make the truck overheat, is that possible? What all could cause this problem?
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Put new backing plates, parking brake shoes, springs, etc on my 2004 F350 DRW 4x4. Replaced the inner hub seals and axle o-ring. Filled with Ford Rear end lube and went for a test drive. All was well. Went out last night to take her out again and I've got diff lube running out of both sides on the inside of the rims. Did Ford sell me the wrong seals? Could I have installed the seals wrong? Ford seal part number is 4C3Z1S177A. Axle is a Dana 80, confirmed by reading the tag on the diff.
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I was looking underneath the truck yesterday and saw that the rear end pinion seal was leaking. Looked like it had been for a while. Truck has 35,850 miles on it. Unscrewed the fill plug and a lot of pressure is released. So I'm assuming the breather is clogged somewhere along the line. I have an appointment at the dealer on Friday to see whats wrong. What is supposed to be at the end of the breather tube? Mine has a barbed 45ish degree fitting on the end of it. Its a SRW by the way.
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I am off to work tomorrow 800 Mile drive and I cant get this thing out of 4X4 Low. Tried driving (inching) back and forth. Got front end up on jacks to try to free up driveline... Is there any way to Manually put in 2WD. I just don't have time to run to town and get parts (new switching motor) if that is what the issue is?
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20 06 F350 6.0l ... Recently noticed when my climate control selector switch is on the off position, the a/c vacuum pump cycles for a few seconds then stops, then cycles, then stops.. Does this until it's changed to a different setting. Pulled the connector behind the selector and plugged the black hose and it stopped. Re-connected it and could hear site leaking so I kinked the white hose and it stopped. I have also lost my MAX a/c that is now defaulting to defrost. Is there a part number just got the hose selector, or a way to fix the existing one?
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I just bought me a 2006 Ford F350 Lariat. A sticker in front of the radiator says says that my truck is equipped with remote start. How would I go about using it? I only have one fob. If it is in fact something that I can utilize I have seen guys on youtube program their fob to do it by clicking three times.
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