Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2006 - No Turbo At Idle
Jan 30, 2014
I have a 2006 6.0, edge programmer, and egr delete. I had the hpop replaced back in July. I have a straight piped exhaust system as well. I have always noticed a loud whistle at idle from the turbo but yesterday when I started it there was not whistle at all. When I drove it it would still build boost but not like it used to. I have to really get on the throttle to build boost like it should. Is it my turbo going bad?
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I have an exhaust leak between the manifold and turbo ( in the flex part of the pipe) on my 2008 6.4 f250 would this create rough idle when at operating temp?
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Got a 2006 6.0 won't build turbo pressure had to previous codes a p0098 and a p0405 I replaced the egr valve and the mafs codes went away but still no boost
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2006 F350 6.0l dually. Head gasket replaced, racing studs installed, other assoc components replaced few years ago. Y pipes replaced two years ago.
3 weeks ago had oil change and service. Last week engine started making roaring sound. Hubby raised hoid and discovered coolant fill tank cap off ( sitting on battery). Shop owner came to our home and filled with coolant, about 3 gal in. We drive from Houston to Lubbock then Dallas this week. Added about another gal coolant.
Hubby thought he heard an air sound yesterday, but was slight. Today after driving for about an hour at hwy speed, after we slowed for an exit, when throttle depressed again, air noise very loud and turbo weak. Limping home.
Have had some of the flexible hoses replaced in the last year or so as well.
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Having problems with no heat at idle or low heat in the cab. I just bought this truck a couple weeks ago and have a limited warranty on it. The truck makes no heat at idle. I start it and let it just run, engine temp gauge goes up to normal operating temp in 15 min or so, still nothing from the vents but cold air. If I drive it I get a "little" heat, at idle, cold air again. I believe the thermostat is working because like I said, engine temp stays right in the middle.
Brought it to local ford dealer, their diagnosis was heat core clogged and needed to be flushed, had that done. truck has been running 40 minutes in the driveway now, engine temps nice and warm, no heat. What could be the issue? I took a picture of what I believe are the lines running to the heater core, just barely warm to the touch, not hot by any means. It looks like there is a vacuum actuator on the line running in but there is no hose attached to it, what this it, should it have a line running to it?
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2006 F53 (motorhome) with 6.8L V10. Rcently noticed rough idle and midrange (under load) mis fire. Had codes on 2 coils. Replaced coils and put new spark plugs in. Did not improve and now detecting mild back fire.
Just completed compression test. 1=207psi, 2=200, 3=210, 4=190, 5=197, 6=200, 7=200, 8=170, 9=202, 10=208.
put some oil in #8 and retested at 225!
Other observations on #8. Engine has ticking noise chased with stethoscope to #8. THE new plug with 200miles, insulator going to electrode tip and everything inside combustion chamber is black. All 9 other plugs still look new out of box.
With the ticking noise I was suspecting valve but the compression test with oil jumped way up.
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After 225,000 miles, my turbo appears to have failed -- not spinning. This is a stock turbo that is unaltered. Yes, I change my oil and filter every 3000 miles.
My question is; what is a reliable after-market replacement part that will bolt up?
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Ok I bought this truck with a bad engine 5.4 3v had rod knocking. I rebuilt engine got it all back together and in truck. I did replace cam phasers and solenoids. After driving 20 mins or so it would start the phaser knock at idle in gear so I put a oil pressure gauge on it and cold had 55 psi after running 10 mins or so had 15 psi at idle then would drop to abought 9 psi. I am thinking I got bad cam bearings or something for some reason don't know why. I did it but I took oil cap off where you pour in the oil. Had to force it off it was pulling that much vaccum ones cap was off oil pressure jumped up to 25 psi. What could be causing this.
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Bought this truck a few months back. Nothing but problems. I always thought it has felt a little underpowered and hesitant. I chalked it up to being a 5.4l in a f250. Well now im thinking it has been a symptom all along.
Lately, the truck has been stalling at stops. Randomly, but not often. The truck idles at 750rpm when I start it, but after driving and then coming to a stop while in overdrive it idles at 400rpm. This seems too low to me.
It hesitates occasionally when giving it throttle. Just today it got really bad and was almost unresponsive. I would hit the throttle and it would just idle while randomly kind of shooting up in RPS and shuddering. It finally produced some error codes, it looks like, but I am afraid to drive it all the way to the autozone.
I am thinking TPS. Is the TPS attached to the pedal or is the TPS attached to throttle body under the hood? I've read some conflicting stuff about this. The good news is that if it is the TPS then it should act like a whole new truck after I replace it.
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2006 F53 (motorhome) with 6.8L V10. Rcently noticed rough idle and midrange (under load) mis fire. Had codes on 2 coils. Replaced coils and put new spark plugs in. Did not improve and now detecting mild back fire.
Just completed compression test. 1=207psi, 2=200, 3=210, 4=190, 5=197, 6=200, 7=200, 8=170, 9=202, 10=208.
put some oil in #8 and retested at 225!
Other observations on #8. Engine has ticking noise chased with stethoscope to #8. THE new plug with 200miles, insulator going to electrode tip and everything inside combustion chamber is black. All 9 other plugs still look new out of box.
With the ticking noise I was suspecting valve but the compression test with oil jumped way up.
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I have a 2003 6.0l did a rebuild on it. Got it all back together runs ok, but the turbo is making noise. I can unplug the actuator and the noise stops. How can I check the actuator. now the noise is of course when it is running.. but unplugged the noise stops.
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A friend has a 2000 Super Duty 7.3L Diesel Power Stroke. 300,000 miles and having an oil leak around top of engine near turbo. It's losing oil at a rate of half a quart every two days. Driver says that engine lacks power. Is it time to replace turbo? What else should I look for concerning the oil leak. Also, what else should be replaced/inspected while replacing turbo?
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I have a 2006 Ford F-250 5.4l the symptoms are when it's warm it has half power and it will stall at idle. What I have done with the truck is.
New cam phasers
new chain
new tensioners
new vct solenoids
new oil pump
new plugs
new ignition coils
new stock cam shafts
new rockers
new lash adjusters
new exhaust manifolds both sides
new muffler
oil change with the right oil
ran it with sea foam in the crankcase before oil change
new fuel pump module
new evap vent control
new abs speed sensor
I cleaned throttle body with brake cleaner ... Scanned it after a 15 min ride of having to use 2 feet to drive it. The engine codes that came up are p0022 iacv short to ground and p1000 readiness test not complete. I also got p1804 4 wheel drive high indicator circuit failure p1808 4 wheel drive low indicator circuit failure .... Not sure what else to try.
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I would like to do the high idle mod with my 2006 F-350 using the upfitter switches. I've seen a couple of threads about this but they are not real clear to me and don't mention the 2006.
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Why am I getting oil seeping out around these boots? Is my turbo seals going bad?
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Just bought a 1999 7.3 f250 w/71000 miles and took it to a diesel guy and under load he said that the whistling was normal..is this correct?
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I have a 2005 6.0 with 279k running pretty strong. I met a mechanic that has the same year truck with 700K!! He showed me one of his mods and he used a longer line on his windshield wiper fluid and put a Tee Connector on the line and ran it into his intake for the turbo. He said he will use it when cruising along sparingly but it cleans his turbo and such. Is this a water injection hack?
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I have a 2000 f250 7.3 powerstroke. I bought the truck with 218000 miles on it, I have only put 1000 on it. I have had some issues with. The cps went out of it, and it wouldn't start until u replaced it. I have a Ts chip on it and cold air intake. It will not start after a cold night, it starts fine if I plug it in. It also lopes, or misses no matter the temperature outside. Also, it will blow a steady flame when you get on it. Finally, it also gets hot, smoke will come from the turbo after driving it for a while, no matter how you drive it.
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6.7 Boost ... Under full acceleration does the turbo go to 40 PSI or stay in the middle at 20?
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Just bought a watchdog monitor by Bullydog. What are the normal levels for Boost, MAF, Load for a SD Twin Turbo 6.0L?
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I have been smelling raw exhaust in the cab, especially when the weather is colder and when standing still.
I took it to the dealer and in the process of fixing minor coolant and oil leaks on the turbo, they located a small exhaust leak with visible soot on the back side of the turbo.
They tell me that there is no way to repair it and that only Ford can rebuild or repair these turbos.
2011 SD 6.7
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