Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2008 F350 - 4x4 Low Light Flashing And Truck Surges Badly At Low Speeds
May 12, 2014
I'm having a strange issue with my 2008 F350 6.4. I have only had this truck for about 2 months now. Every time it gets wet (from rain or a carwash), the 4x4 low light begins flashing, and the truck surges badly at low speeds. When I get above about 25 MPH, the light stops, and the truck runs normally. At the next stoplight, it happens all over again. After a couple days of dry time (?), the truck is back to normal (until it gets wet again). I have found a couple of old threads involving some similar symptoms, but they were never resolved on this forum (that I could find). I believe the transfer case selector motor has been replaced at some point, as it has a Dorman brand sticker on it. I wouldn't think Ford would use Dorman parts as original equipment.
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I have the dreaded flashing O/D light on my early 99 F350 7.3 4x4 auto. The only one's that seem to be consistently recommended are Snap-On or AutoEnginuity.
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1999 F350 7.3 Super Duty surges when going uphill with a load. The only time we drive it is when towing the horse trailer - also has a camper on.
The truck doesn't physically surge, just the RPM gauge goes up and down and along with it a humming noise.
Also, What conditions should I engage the towing button on the end of the gear shift? I've heard several answers. Should it be engaged when towing or off?
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I have a 99 f450 and the od light flashes when the truck is in low range. I have to shut the truck off when I put it back in high range to get it to stop. It won't flash again till I use low range again. whats going on?
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Well I just bought a 2011F250 6.7 on Friday. The truck has 42000 miles when I picked it up and now has almost 42800 4 days later. I love the truck so far. But anyways its an early build so is there anything I need to look out for? I noticed today I pulled into a parking spot and went to back up and as soon as I put it in reverse the truck shook pretty bad. It did it a few times as I sat there and went from drive to reverse. Is this something that is normal?
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I have a 97 F350 5.8 with E40D trans. I bought the truck with it shifting hard thinking maybe a simple filter/fluid change would fix it. It may have worked a little but did not fix the issue. There were 3 or 4 codes that I have already cleared up with new parts. I am still getting a 327 (something with EGR?) and 629 (Converter clutch control circuit failure). These show up in KOEO and KOER self test. The O/D does not flash ( bulb does work).
Parts that have been replaced: VSS, MLPS, new connector going into solenoid pack (tabs were broken), TPS. Removed the trans wiring harness and there is no damage or loose connections. When I replaced the solenoid connector I noticed there was some trans fluid in the connection. I cleaned it the best I could and reinstalled with dielectric grease.
The truck runs fine and shifts in and out of every gear fine its just shifting hard. If I unhooked the battery it will shift perfect for 5-10 minutes but then the hard shifting returns.
The only other thing I can find with my research is maybe the solenoid pack needs replaced. I figured if I take it somewhere they are going to want to rebuild/replace transmission. It seems like it can't be something very major since it will shift fine when reset...
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I know this has been done to death, but on my '08 F250 XL I can't seem to get the truck to enter into the programming mode to program some fobs to it. I've done the cycling business and the best I get is a flashing light on the dash of the truck with a little lock on it, but nothing else. Can you not program the XL? Is there a major step I am missing?
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I have a 2002 f350 5.4l that has stalling issues, first some back round. Last week I pulled up the a stop light and the truck stalled I figured it was a iced fuel line as it was very cold so I put a bottle of drygas in the tank. Evidently there was a lot of moister in there because as soon as I started the truck check engine light came on and truck would not idle at all. I got through that tank and am now on my second tank. It is better but the truck will still stall when stopped at light (has never stalled in park or on the road only while stopped in drive) the check engine also light went off halfway through the first tank. What next?
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I have a 08 F350 CC with the factory fog lights. One of them has burnt out. Do I replace just the bulb or the entire unit? Is there a part number?
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I have an 08 F350 regular cab 4X4 that the cargo light doesn't work, Is this powered from the interior light like the old ones? or does it get its power from the GEM module? If it comes from the GEM is it possible to feed it like the old ones from the interior dome light without killing something? I really miss having a cargo light.
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My father-in-law has a 2008 f-250 with the 5.4. as he was driving a while back all the gauges of the dash quit. The engine still kept running without any noticeable difference but when he shut the engine off and tried to restart, it wouldn't even crank but the security light was flashing. He tried starting it again a few hours later and it started just like normal and ran fine.
He has had this problem occur several times in the last few months, but the other day it repeated the problem again and would not restart for about 5 days. He has tried charging the batteries, changing relays, checking all fuses and finding none blown, scanned it with his code reader, and checked the steering column for bare or rubbed wires.
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Replaced HPFP 38,000 miles ago. Truck began going in limp mode without engine light, wrench came on in dash, gave codes for brake switch, anti-theft, some other weird codes. Had those codes cleared, ran for while then water separator came on, drained the water out, came back on. Read some forums, so I removed and cleaned the housing, cleaned off the sensor. Had code cleared and ran good for about a week. Then guess what engine light comes on, limp mode.
Went to Auto Zone, pulled code P0088. This truck runs awesome until limp mode. No other problems. I take it to the ford dealer, scanner pulled P0088 and the water separator code again. I have read alot of remarks about this P0088 code. Can there be another cause for pulling this code, only 38,000 miles later. I had them do the TSB 12-07-07 but I have also read it can only be done if the P0088 is the only code. I just really feel there is an underlying issue with these 6.4's.
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I have a 1999 f350 v10 stock truck. It has plenty of power when it's cold out or raining or I'm on backrooms or highways but if I drive through town on a hot day the transmission kicks bad I have changed the fluid and filter, it also seems to shift at a high rpm from 2nd to 3rd. Unless I you let off quick and go back on kinda like engaging a 2 speed rear end. Does it need a bigger trans cooler or is the trans shot
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I have a 2008 F-350. The Anti-theft light blinks rapidly and the truck will not turn over. Give it some time or take the key out of the ignition and in repeatedly and it will start. Sometimes not till the next day. I have replaced the transceiver & key. Did not fix the problem. Dealers all say: they have never seen this before. I would like to just bypass the Anti-theft system if possible. There are times I will just let it run for hours not to be stuck.
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1999 F-350 7.3 Dually 2wd Front End issues. I think I may have several things going on so here goes. Truck has about 130,000 miles on it . Bought it with 60,000 miles in 2009.
It's always worn the front tires weird but it's gotten a lot worse and it's happening in about 10-15 thousand miles now. It's wearing the tires on both sidewalls like under-inflation but I run 70 lbs in them. I've noticed for several years now that it makes a knocking sound and I feel it in the floorboard, shakes in the steering wheel when I turn to the left only in a corner at speed. (65-70) ...
Now it's started intermittently going into the death wobble at slow speeds like the caster is to negative on it. I'm sure it could use some shocks but I just rotated the tires and I felt no play anywhere. I know when we used to get that bumping in the floor board on older Fords it was a bad radius arm bushing but that couldn't be all of what's going on here. I've done searches on this and it has happened to others but I haven't found a resolution from any yet.
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At low speeds, I notice a squeel sound in all four wheels. Ford tells me that it is due to the type of metallic pads they use and is essentially brake dust noise that warrants no repair.
Any after market pads that are good quality for towing heavy loads, yet aren't metallic in composition? For instance, are porcelin pads a good choice.
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All the sudden got home and now my truck wont go in park. All other gears are fine. My PRNDL on dash has always been off for the last 3 years park has always shown as reverse its never affected anything! I already checked the torq. bolts and that was not it. My shifter is very sloppy so is my steering wheel. I found a 00 whole steering column with wheel and shifter but its not a early 99 will it work or fix my no park. The guy didnt know if it would fit early 99 or my no park problem.
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I have a 2000 f350 xlt and it has been very good until now. I can be driving normal and stop and park, when I get in and try and start it , it acts like the neutral safety switch is not working. the key turns and all my dash lights work, radio works, everything but the starter. I have to put it into neutral to get it to start. then after I stop again, it works fine. I don't get the problem all the time and I can't find a neutral safety switch.
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My truck seems to shudder between 40 and 60 mph when it's in OD. If I turn off OD it seems to go away with the increased rpm's. Although I can't be sure if it genuinely disappears or if I just don't notice since I'm at 2100 rpms instead of 1500. Trans fluid is clean. Is this a common problem in these trucks? Just filled up from flat E the same day air temps about 4 deg. Truck was fully warmed up. Does this sound ignition related, tranny or fuel related?
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I have a 2012 Ford F350 I've been looking to install a compressor on. I've poked a hole in the gasket that runs wires through the firewall and cut the tips off of a couple of the accessory wires. Went to go get some more parts and now the truck won't start! The lights and radio turn on when the car is turned on but the starter doesn't even click when I try to start it. What should I look at?
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i have a 01 Ford F-350 7.3L quite and won't start I have replaced the ipr valve and sensor and the crank sensor and the truck still won't start...
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