Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2008 - Steers Left / Right Too Violently?
Oct 23, 2014
Just purchased new to me '08 F-350 w/ 150K miles and I'm currently having this issue. It will steer to the left and right sharply, and it will stop if I park the truck for a couple of minutes. Can't drive it on the road at the moment as it's too dangerous. Doing a search revealed the following: steering box or u-joints. Should I try using penetrating oil on the u-joints and see if the problem goes away? What is the easiest way to gain access to the u-joints?
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2008 f250 standard cab long bed 2wd base model 5.4. This thing has been great for the last few years i i owned it but it developed a shake since i got new tires. My mechanic mounted 4 new Hercules Terra trac at 2's on my 18 inch wheels (275 70 18) and when i got the truck back it was shaking violently at anything over 45. Mechanic says the new tires are heavy and its affecting other things...sounds plausible. So here i am a month later with a New steering stabilizer, all new ball joints, new shocks, new u joints, and 1 new tire (he said 1 of the brand new Hercules had a broken chord). The shake is 80% gone but this truck is still not the same. Anything after 65mph and it has a feint wobbly bouncy shake. I don't think its the dreaded hop that everyone gets on these. I have 2 theories:
1. These cheap tires just suck and will never be right
2. The cheap junk Monroe shocks he put on are way too soft to do anything
so what do i do? Should i get some crazy shocks or will that make this truck even bouncier? Im worried about making it even stiffer than it already is.
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I am getting what i think is death wobble at around 45-55 mph in my 2012 but not near as violent as others/videos have described. I do not have a lift but i do have 35x55x12 mud tires. I got an alignment but it is still happening. I have read that it is usually caster but i thought this was only in lifted trucks? I am putting a 3.5 inch lift on it to better clear my tires in a couple of weeks and it comes with a trac bar relocation bracket. Will this fix the issue? I have checked tie rods/ball joints as well and they seem ok. Will the relocation bar fix the issue? I also have dual stabilizers on it. That firm up the steering after i put the tires on but the intermittent wobble is still there. Most of my driving is between 45-55mph so it can become annoying.
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I have a 2005 F250 with the 6.0L. I went to pass a person, I got the truck up to 80 - 85 mph and made the pass. Everything was fine for a second or two, then the truck started to rock back and forth violently. It shook so hard, it removed cups from the cup holders. I never felt I lost control of the truck, but I have never experienced anything like it before. I slowed the truck down to about 60 mph and the problem stop. What in the world could have caused this?
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My 02 f250 started shaking violently until when I accelerated and the mechanic said it was the wiring harness in the computer. He said it was caused because of over revving I think it was just because the harness was old. Is it because of over revving? Will it happen again?
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Truck jerks violently when tring to brake only when towing. Its has done it when towing a large trailer with surge brakes, Does it 1 out of 3 times when stopping with electric brakes (goose neck trailer)...
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Problem: 55-60+ mph hit a bump front end shakes violently. Slow down to 40 mph it stops. DOES NOT happen every time, and may only happen once a week, but when it does my whole front end feels like it will come loose.
Solutions to date that have not worked:
1. Rotate and balance tires. (tire shop)
2. New shocks. (me)
3. New steering stabilizer. (me)
4. Changed ball joint and bushing in track bar. (Dealership)
5. Check ball bearings and seem to be ok. (me)
6. Check tie rod ends and are ok. (Dealership)
The only other options people have given me:
1. Dual Steering Stabilizer. (Have had truck since Jan and hasn't done it in about 19,000 miles. Why would it need it now? Truck has 109,000 miles on it.)
2. New tires. (If it were the tires wouldn't it do it all the time? )
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I have a 2000 f350 v10 ext cab 8 ft bed 4wd,i replaced all 10 plugs all 10 coils at 40 mph the truck violently shakes an vibrates read on a few things that could be crack cylinder or bad pistons,i did a test on it an says low compression in 2 cylinders 1&2 what can I do an what is the best option for me as I just got the truck not even a month ago...
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Took truck out for a ride and stopped for gas. I smelled Brakes and upon inspection found the left rear brake pads were not releasing. Any take on what could be holding it? 2008 F-250.
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'08 F350 6.4l 4wd, I had the truck come in with a exploded transfer case. (See pics). Ive read all about this happening to many others. The truck still drove, hubs not locked, plenty of fluid in the TC, pretty sure it was the double Cardan that did it. Anyways I replaced thwith TC, replaced the front driveshaft, filled the TC with recommended fluid. Test drove and drives great, shifts fine. Only until I turned left.
At slow speeds turning hard or 15-20 taking a turn, it sounds like a ratchet clicking from somewhere on the left side, right around the drivers door, from what I can hear from the cab. Does it in 2wd, 4wd hi/low, hubs locked or not. I changed the vacuum pump, no leaks, changed the IWE solenoid, pulled out both locking mechanisms, tightened crossmember, checked everything from the hours of research I did on the internet. I cannot find the problem. I don't know what else to check. Front axles free spin and lock when they are supposed to. I'm at the end...
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2004 PSD 4x4 72k. I thought I would be proactive so I bought the front ball joints and have plans to install them but recently I starting hearing (and feeling) a clicking sound in the front LEFT when I make sharp turns to the left and hit small bumps now and again. I jacked up the front end and am able to get 1/4" of movement front to back (top to bottom so not steering) in the wheel.
I narrowed it down to the hub. I took it apart and it is most likely a sealed unit so no adjustment is possible....that I can see.I pulled out the locking hub and got as far as I can to know there is not an adjustment. Need to confirm that it indeed is a sealed bearing and if so what are the part number(s) I may need to repair it.
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My Superduty has been pulling to the left when I hit the brakes for a few months now. In the past it's done it, like within a year or two after buying it brand-new off the lot, but that was because one brake pad had rusted itself to the bracket and was not doing a darn thing. Once or twice more, it was a stuck caliper pin, which was quite obvious when working on it.
Last year, around August, I replaced the rotors and pads with Advanced Auto parts stuff. Rotors are still great, pads look brand-new, and it wasn't pulling up until the past month or two.
But this most recent pulling has been a problem that I can't find. It's not the pins, it's not the pads, and now I find out, it wasn't the calipers
This past weekend I went so far as to replace the calipers with Napa rebuilt "semi-loaded" calipers (all hardware and pins and bracket, except for the pads) and pressure-bleed the entire system. The old fluid was green, not black, but now that it's been bled, the pedal is a bit firmer than it was.
I wasn't going to replace the calipers without checking them first, but I broke both bleed nipples off and I wasn't about to wrestle with an easy-out and try to get the darn things out. Per side, rebuilt caliper with hardware and bracket, can't go wrong. (Checking the calipers would have involved using a C-clamp to compress the caliper slightly, then backing off the C-clamp - if the pistons come back out a slight degree, they are free and the seals are still "grabby" and resilient).
While bleeding it, I saw a piece of black crud (rubber?) about 2-3mm in size come out of the left side. Didn't think much of it, figured it was just built up crud from somewhere.
Today, the first commute after doing the calipers and bleeding, it's still pulling just like it was before the calipers. However, I did notice at one point when I hit them, they pulled like they normally do, but seemed to go straight a few seconds into it. It does seem that if I keep my foot on the brake, the pulling is much less after the initial second or two, but if I stab them again, it pulls like crazy.
And by "pull" I mean the steering wheel actually moves in my hand. So with that in mind, it's actually a front-brake problem. If it was the rears, the wheel wouldn't pull like it does, and if it was something loose in the suspension, I would have found it already after checking everything, and it again, wouldn't pull the steering wheel like that.
Now, given that black piece of whatever that came out of the left side, I'm beginning to wonder... if it was rubber from the inside of the hose.
Is the right brake hose causing the pulling because it's coming apart just like the left one might be?
I've gone over and over this in my head this morning, and thought about the ABS unit possibly dumping pressure from the right because of a leaky valve (see side note below), but I would think that once the pedal stab was over, it would even out and not pull at all.
However, this thing pulls left quite a bit, even after the pedal has been held down for quite some time. Usually. Sometimes, it subsides and doesn't pull. But mostly it does no matter what I do, keep pressure on the pedal, let up and reapply, whatever.
Does this really sound like a bad hose? It's intermittent, but usually pulls like 90% of the time.
Side note: The ABS unit in my truck, and most Fords of the time (not sure about later than 2004 or so) is a Kelsey-Hayes three-channel unit like this:
Kelsey-Hayes RWAL Antilock Brakes
It's the same system found in Chevy Suburbans and light-trucks, which I have worked on before and know a bit about.
In my case, it can't be a dump valve leaking, because it would effect pedal-height and not PULL to one side like it does. The only way that could happen is if the isolation valve was closed, AND the dump valve were leaking at the same time.
I haven't, however, gotten the ABS to activate just to see if it changes anything. On my way home tonight I will see if I can find some dirt or sand and get it going
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Seems that after a sharp right turn, for instance turning right at a stop sign I'll get a loud pop that I can feel in the floor pan under my feet.
After the pop the steering wheel and whole front of the truck will shift left and right like someone is grabbing the wheel, sometimes violently. If I drive slowly it will cure itself and sometimes not do it again for several days. I've check ball joints and hubs and they are in great shape. I pulled the hubs and greased the needle bearings about 6 months ago. I checked all steering components and the linkage that attached to the steering arm had some play so I replaced it. Then I found that some idiot took the steel sleeve out of the bushing in one end of the steering stabilizer. I bought a new stabilizer and cured a pop I'd had since I got the truck, but the other issues were not solved.
Alignment has been checked too.
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My 2012 f350 6 lift when I push the brakes it pulls to the left kinda bad and the steering wheel is off to the right..
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2012 F450 Dually King Ranch 4x4 - I have read many threads on front end noise. I started hearing a noise when I turned left or right and then slowly run over a speed bump. I listen to music at an average sound and I picked up on the front end noise. For some reason you can hear it in the driver seat better.
Anyway I took the vehicle in and the mechanic said he didn't hear anything. I thought, he forget his hearing aid today? I have this expensive warranty plan that would actually cover a few items in the front end but Ford is claiming they don't hear anything.
In their defense I have figured it out why. When the temps are below 40 the noise gets louder and I think by the time they looked at it (8 hours after I brought it in, 5:00pm) the day was warmer.
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I have 2 F-350 4x4's and they both wander back and forth when driving. They feel like they don't have enough caster. One is a 2000 V-10 extended cab with 8 foot bed. The other is a 2015 6.7 diesel crew cab with 8 foot bed.
I have driven the 2000 for so many years that I have grown use to the very slight sawing of the wheel to keep the rig straight. When my wife got her 2015 it does the same thing. The 2000 is leaf spring and the 2015 is coil spring. This bothered me when I first got the 2000 (used) but I just figured it was part of
the charm of a big truck.
I know I could put a caster shim in the 2000 but there must be a better way to solve the problem. Both are stock, no lift and no heavy winch or stuff.
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Last couple drives I have noticed some front end noise on the left side. Back in May I also noticed grease all over behind the rotor. I believe this is the grease inserted via ABS hole into the unit bearing. I do not hear the needle bearing crunching while driving and did not here it in May either. I also attempted to move the unit-bearing up and down thinking the axle seal was toast but it seemed solid at the time.
Today I hear some noise while turning left which lead to the pictures below. Wet side is Driver side, dry side is passenger. Tomorrow morning I should have some time to take a look at this more in depth. Passenger needle bearing was changed last year and no issues since then......
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I have a 2000 F-350,7.3, 6 speed. Just the other day I made a turn and my passenger got her feet wet. It had been raining and I also had the ac on. A couple of days later the same thing happened, but it had not rained, just the ac on. What is causing this. I do see condensate discharging under the truck.
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2012 F250 left turn signal on all the time no right turn signal.
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What would be causing my left and right bank lean codes? Truck still seems to run fine. I have also been getting number 6 misfire. all within the past week. I know Its due for a tune up but would a simple tune up fix these codes. Also besides plugs and primary fluids what else should I be changing. I don't want to be getting to involved just the main stuff.
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I have a 1999 f250 sd with the 7.3. I'm not sure what is going on with my pickup. When I turn to the right i can turn with one finger, but when I turn left i have to put some muscle into it. Power steering fluid is full. I raised the front end and it turns both ways easy. My ball joints feel fine, there is no tire shake when i have it off the ground. My tie rods feel fine also, nice and tight. I was thinking about replacing the steering sector to see if thats the issue but wanted to get a second opinion first.
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