Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2014 - Headlights Stay On?
Jan 3, 2016
This is my first post on this forum. I have a 2014 F350 standard fleet truck. The headlights are not day time running lights. The headlight switch is the basic off/parking light/on. The headlights come on as soon as you start the
truck. This just started happening about a month ago. When you shut off the truck the headlights stay on for ten minutes. I scanned the truck with a snap on modis. I got into the lighting module and the "command on" is on. The modis would not give me the option to turn it off. Short of taking the truck out of service for a day to go to the dealer. Is there any other fix I can do?
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i have a 2002 f250 i drove it lat night parked it came home from work at about 3 and noticed my head lights were on and just headlights. I open the door and see that the switch is in the off position too. WEIRD HUH ? they wont go off. I tried to unplug the switch and nothing.
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Walk out to my 02 f250sd this afternoon after it sat for 9 hours while I was working... the lights are on... look inside and the light switch is in the off position... Open the door and it smells like burning wires. Car cranks without a problem but lights will not go off. Unplugged light switch and still lights are on. Open fuse box and all fuses look good none of the relays are hot. Reach around to back of fuse box and almost burn my fingers. Remove 4 screws that hold box in place and look around back. Unplug the wires going into fuse box and see that one is melted and it appears it is melted inside the fuse compartment itself. What might be going on inside this black box?
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I bought an hid kit for my 2005 f250 the dog lights work fine but the headlights won't stay on. They come on for about 30 seconds then shut off. How to fix this. I've swapped the ballast with the fog light ballast and it does the same thing.
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I have a 2001 F53 chassis Coachmen Mirada. My low beams, and only the low beams, blink off and back on ea. 2 seconds, and the low beams stay on with highs on. I have confirmed with a friend who has the identical model that the lows should go off. The dip is momentary and happens regardless of anything else. The highs don't blink and do go off when they should.
The headlight switch seems to work normally. The multi function switch does turn the highs on and off as it should. Both sides behave the same. The Daylight running lights are separate and work fine. The high and lows are 2 different bulbs. Where do you think I should start checking? With previous cars I was led to believe that a headlight that goes off meant a breaker being tripped due to a short or bad breaker. I can't find a breaker to check.
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My issue is not with the truck starting its with it staying running. I had plugged in all the night prior and all day while at work. When my shift was over went out started fine let it run for about 20 minutes and left to make my way home. During the trip it ran fine for about 1/2 a mile and then it started idling really rough at a stop light went to go threw the light and it as though I had left it out all night with plugging it in. I went to turn on a side street because this situation was not going to end well and it died trying to turn. It would not start back up I was able to get a jump and made another 1/4 of a mile and it died right in front of my house. I replaced both the batteries this morning and it fired right up lasted about a minute and then died again. All the gauge read fine, oil level is good, and the injectors were replaced 2 years ago.
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I was thinking my AC clutch has too much gap and was gonna do the "fix it" listed in another thread. However, my clutch wouldn't engage like it states needs to be done. The only time my AC blows cold is when it's cold/cooler outside OR I rev up the RPM's but it hardly stays engaged. I had a friend do a few diagnostics on it, with a paper clip (assuming he did it right) he feels my clutch is bad. But I've read the clutch is either good or bad, works or doesn't work, no in between.
Next, it doesn't seem to blow as hard as it used to. I replaced the blower motor last summer, but even before that, it seemed to not blow very hard. If I have it on low, it's very hard to feel it. With a crew cab and 2 little boys seated in the back, they often end up sweaty and miserable, no matter how far we go. I've read the orifice tube might need to be replaced, or something needs to be cleaned cuz it's dirty or clogged like the orifice tube. But I can't remember what.
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Yesterday jump in truck head out and when I go to use right (passenger) blinker and it doesn't stay on. Left side works fine. It will stay on if held but on it's own it blinks like 4 times then shuts off.
Side note not sure if connected but a couple days before was using wipers and when I shut them off it was still like it was on intermittent. It happened a couple times but seems fine now, but then with the blinker I am wondering if it is something in there.
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When I parked my truck at work this morning, I pushed the parking brake pedal down like always, but it popped back up. I didn't pop all the way back up, it stayed down about 1/4 of the way. Several tries yielded the same results.
Since I'm at work, I didn't have any time to crawl under there are investigate. I'll do so tonight when I get home, or maybe tomorrow. Kinda sounds like the locking "teeth" mechanism may be misaligned?? Since it doesn't come all the way back up, I'm hoping the mechanism isn't totally broken.
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Got a 99 F450 7.3 with 190k miles, started acting sluggish. When cold, it wouldn't stay running, almost as if out of fuel. Would stall out when you pressed and released the accelerator but would idle fine. Now, it won't even stay running. Still acts like it's out of fuel. Changed the air filter, fuel filter, and added injector cleaner and conditioner. What else could it be? after warming up when shifting gears and letting off throttle it stalls and when restarted lets off blueish white smoke.
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Okay, I've done a few topic searches and see some variations on this, but not this specific scenario. 2001 F-250 (5.4L, 4x4, auto). My daughter's truck and I wasn't home so this is the best info I have as relayed by her.
She turned the key off, the engine shut off, but all the "electrics" stayed on -- radio and a/c fan to be specific. She said that morning the truck had a dead battery so she got a jump start, leading one to suspect that the electrics stayed on the previous night as well. (?)
I had her disconnect the battery and let it sit until I got home. Of course, when I got home and reconnected the battery, everything works normally as it should. And has worked normally for a few days.
So.. any words of wisdom out there while we wait for "the next" occurrence?
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On my 2009 F350 the cruise control won't stay on. The slightest bump and it turns off and I have to push the resume button. It's not the brake pedal/stop light as it will do it with me holding the pedal up. I'm guessing there is a vibration/crash sensor to turn off the cruise control in case of a wreck.
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I have a 2012 F-350 SRW with a 6.7 diesel. The other day I went to push the defrost switch and noticed it does not work. All the lights work in the switches, and the temp control works, but no matter what I push, defrost or floor, it stay in the vent only. Anything I can check??
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6.7 Boost ... Under full acceleration does the turbo go to 40 PSI or stay in the middle at 20?
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I got to replace mine because the hood won't stay up on it's own and is heavy to lift. I was wondering if these things fail often. Mine is an '08.
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I bought a new Motorcraft door latch for my F550 because the door latch won't stay latched. You close the door firm and it seats well then pops loose the first bump in the road. I found all kinds of OEM replacment latches all over the internet but nowhere can I find any instructions or videos or any talk of the best way to go about replacing the door latch. I know they wear out from constant use on the drivers side.
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Just got done with a ball joint replacement on my 2003 F550, everything went together great, just as it should. Until I got to the drivers side hub lock.
I have Mile Marker 449s/s manual hubs. Turn from free to lock and theres this loud clicking sound about halfway to LOCK (passenger side doesn't do this). Hub will stay locked for about 2 rotations, then it unlocks and makes a clicking sound. You cannot turn the hub back to FREE, it gets halfway and stops. I tried forcing it and broke the spring fingers inside. Have a new set on order.
Is this a locking hub issue or an assembly error? I was going to take these steps.
- Take passenger side hub lock off and see if it operates normally or same on drivers side.
- If same, remove axle and re-seat/re-assemble everything again
Anything to specifically check? All the parts went back in, washers were in correct order, outer snap ring is in groove.
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Why my interior and outside cab light just started to stay on when doors are closed and dial is turned off.
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I have a 2016 F350 Lariat. I feel the auto headlights do not come on soon enough. I have not talked to Ford yet, but am wondering if there is a way to adjust when the auto lights come on?
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I Have a 2002 F 250 That I recently changed the fuel pump. and now I'm having a tail light problem. when i start the truck, my tail lights and plate lights comes on (dim). if i turn my head lights on the truck stalls out. if i step on the brake or put the truck in reverse it stalls out. if i put it in drive it runs just fine. i checked my fuses and relays and the problem is still there even when the relay and fuse for the lights are out. when i turn the truck off all the light go out.
can't seem to find any info on this problem anywhere.
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2008 F350 hubs wont stay locked in when in auto position. everything stays locked while in manual and 4x4 works fine, but in auto the hubs wont stay locked while spinning. I was trying to find the problem when i noticed that one hub stays locked all the time and the other locks and unlocks as it should but it wont stay locked while spinning. My question is do I have two bad hubs or is their a leak that wont let the hub stay locked? Also on the hub that wont unlock is this a leak problem as well or a internal problem?
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