Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2015 - Bad Vibration And Hard Shaking When Turning
May 5, 2017
2015 6.7L Super Duty ... I bought this truck 74,000 miles and almost two years ago. About 6 months ago it developed a vibration and a very hard shaking of the steering wheel when (so far) turning to the left. First began when, from a dead stop at a red light, I turned left onto an uphill I-41 on-ramp. Scared the crap out of me and I had to pull over to a dead stop to get it to stop. Happened several times but only on this ramp. Local Ford dealer checked it out 2 oil changes ago and couldn't find anything wrong. Now, 2 weeks ago it did it on the highway at 65 mph on a slow, 80-ish degree and downhill turn on a 4 lane highway in Milwaukee. Again had to almost stop for the wildly shaking steering wheel to return to 'normal.' Am taking truck back to same dealer this Wednesday for it's next oil change and they will check it out again. I pull a 37 foot, 15K pound 5th wheeler and don't need to lose control at 70 mph!!!!!
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My CC 2015 6.2 has a pretty annoying vibration when stopped at red lights, etc. isn't always there but is pretty frequent. Dealer says it is normal for the truck. I disagree. I am not sure how bad it was vibrating when the dealer had it.
Think of having a subwoofer in your truck and how it will rattle the doors,etc. seems to be behind the driver seat, coming from underneath. All stock truck.
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I just purchased a new 2015 F250 SC 8ft bed 4X4 2 weeks ago. I am experiencing a vibration on soft acceleration (I feel it through the floor), by that I mean when there is power going through the driveway, not coasting. I plan on making an appointment with the dealer. New F250 SC LB 4x4 truck.
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I have a 15 F250 CC SB 6.2 4x4 that is suffering from a driveline vibration. Had the shaft checked for balance and it was off. It's a little better now but still there. Checked all the angles and they're correct. Also came up with a curious observation that all CC SB 4x4's have a slip yoke driveshaft at the transfer case while all the other trucks have the fixed yoke. This appears to be my source of the vibration.
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I have a '03 F350 that I can't seem to solve the brakes vibrating when applied. Replaced front rotors a couple weeks ago. I still have a vibration when I apply the brakes. What am I missing? I didn't replace the back rotors, but maybe I should have. On the passenger front, the inside pad was almost gone and the outside pad was in good shape. I greased the pins before I replaced the pads the last time, but the inside still wore much faster. I also blew out the rear brake line last week and spent Saturday bending a new line and replacing that so the brakes were bled when I had to replace that. I don't feel the pulsing in the pedal, but the truck shakes pretty good when I hit the brakes. What else should I be checking if the rotors are new and the pads are new and the pins have been lubed and the brakes have been bled?
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2015 F-350 diesel purchased Sept 2104. When towing my 16,000 lb 5th wheel the 6 to 5 downshift seems to have gotten much harsher in the last few months. About 10,000 miles on the truck, much of it towing. Is this an indication of a developing problem?
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My 2015 F-350 Super Duty has a noticeable vibration between 5 and 15 mph when accelerating with my 5th wheel. The 5th wheel is heavy--around 14000 pounds. The pin weight is heavy--around 3000 pounds. The Owner's Manual says on page 191 "When driving with a trailer or payload, a slight vibration or shudder may be present due to the increased payload weight..." (This was brought to my attention by my dealer.)
Seeing the thousands of F-250 and F-350 Fords pulling 5th wheels out there on the road, I wonder how many have this "slight vibration or shudder" and what they have done about it.
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Ok here is whats happening. 2003 F250. When the axle gets warm and I turn a slight left or right turn I get a bad vibration and Growl from the rear axle. I have changed the fluid and added two bottles of the Ford Limited slip fluid but the problem just keeps getting worse. The question is am I looking at limited slip clutches or do I have bigger issues. I had new Ford 4:30 gears installed about 3 years ago and don't know if they put new clutch pack in or not,
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I'm having trouble finding the source of a vibration in the front end if my 1999 f350 super duty 4x4. The vibration is felt all the time but worse when under 40mph, while braking, and especially when turning.
I have replaced the rotors and brakes, tie rods and Drag links since the issue started but no change. In the vibration. What should I check next?
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I need fixing my 2003 f350 6.0 diesel, I have been working on this truck for a while and still am having problems, here was the original symptoms:
-Hard start or no start on a sunny day
-Rough idle for 10-15 minutes
-Rough shaking in the low RPMs (35 mph)[/COLOR]
-Slow response from the gas pedal
-boost would only get to 14
My dad and I then did many things to the truck in the shop, those things are:
-Air test and replacement of coupling going into oil branches (next to HPOP)
-Replaced EGR valve (no good)
-Replaced ICP sensor (leaking oil)
-Replaced ICP sensor and IPR valve piggtails (due to frayed wires)
-Cleaned Turbo
-Cut MAP sensor hose and reattached it (spliced on the end)
-New battery
-Performed a bubble test and found two bad injectors on passenger side (injectors #5 and #7)
-Cleaned and lubed tops of injectors
-Replaced O rings and copper crush washers on all injectors
-Replaced nipple cup O rings (tight)
-Blew out injector cups
-Bubble tested after injectors put back in (no more bubbles)
-New FICM, EGR cooler and oil cooler were already installed
-Ohm'd main engine wiring harness (good to go)
-Taped up frayed wires on fan clutch connection
-Increased wire gauge on the positive jumper between both batteries
-Sanded each ground on the batteries and engine, cleaned battery clamps, lithium greased connection points.
-Checked fuel for air (no air)
-Checked fuel psi (85 psi, plenty)
-Oil changed
After doing all of this (diagnosing as we fixed each thing) we now fixed many things including the hard/no start problem. Now, for the first three to five minutes:
-It starts right up
-Runs perfectly, no shake and instant response from the gas pedal and turbo
-Boost goes to 28
-ICP is 800-950 on idle
-IPR is 25-26.9% closed
After five minutes however:
-Starts to shake
-IPR % starts to raise
-Received no response from gas pedal (absolutely no power)
This truck has been torn apart like 8 times and I have to do it on my spare time.
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So I noticed the past few days my 09 F250 was clunking in the front end when turning hard even with the hubs in auto so I knew there was an issue in there somewhere. This morning I took the jack and found the passenger side would not release no matter which way the lock was turned. Pulled the locking assembly out and found a couple of the pieces of plastic cage broken (truck has 250k miles) which is to be expected I guess but the locking ring that holds the inner piece that slides over the axle stub was off and hanging next to the c-clip on the axle.
So with the plastic of the cage already being broke and the mileage on the truck it's clear I need a new lock for that side.
Here's my dilemma, I have to deliver a conference room table 200 miles away tomorrow morning that they need for meeting tomorrow afternoon at 3:00pm. I cut the rest of the plastic pieces and took the gears out leaving just the cover with the diaphragm and put it back on the hub. I can't come up with any logical reason why I can't drive the truck this way but just want to bounce it off the experts here before I take off on a 400 mile trip in the morning. The only thing I can come up with is if I were to engage the 4wd the vacuum might suck the auto-lock diaphragm in and pop it but otherwise I can't find any reason to not run it this way, the hub is still sealed up and free-wheeling just like if it were in 2wd anyway.
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'08 F350 6.4l 4wd, I had the truck come in with a exploded transfer case. (See pics). Ive read all about this happening to many others. The truck still drove, hubs not locked, plenty of fluid in the TC, pretty sure it was the double Cardan that did it. Anyways I replaced thwith TC, replaced the front driveshaft, filled the TC with recommended fluid. Test drove and drives great, shifts fine. Only until I turned left.
At slow speeds turning hard or 15-20 taking a turn, it sounds like a ratchet clicking from somewhere on the left side, right around the drivers door, from what I can hear from the cab. Does it in 2wd, 4wd hi/low, hubs locked or not. I changed the vacuum pump, no leaks, changed the IWE solenoid, pulled out both locking mechanisms, tightened crossmember, checked everything from the hours of research I did on the internet. I cannot find the problem. I don't know what else to check. Front axles free spin and lock when they are supposed to. I'm at the end...
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First off my trucks a 2000 v10 f250 with four-wheel drive and 2 wheel abs with about 230000 miles on it.
I Recently replaced my unit bearing on my drivers side because I thought it was the cause of a grinding that only happens on hard left turns but I wasnt the cause it was going bad causing play in the half shaft. I didnt seem to notice and wear on the shaft from bad needle bearings but I have to take it all apart again to be sure. Was just wondering what else could be the cause of this noise. I plan to pull the axel shaft and change all the seals.
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Truck is a stock 2001 f250 7.3 with 205,000 miles. When accelerating or braking from about 40-60mph it starts to shake a little bit. When braking it shakes a lot more from 60 down to 40. But the faster you speed up the less it shakes when taking off. Looked at everything underneath is tight, and it has stock a stock steering stabilizer. Would a new stabilizer fix this you think?
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I have a 1999 f250 v10 auto. It has 3 miss fires thats im stumped with .. Ive replaced all spark plugs, all coils , I've had injectors out and were cleaned and it still miss fires. I can disconnect the coil and injector on the cylinders and the motor runs the same. Ive swapped the coils and injectors around to make sure it wasn't them. What else could it be? Frustrated I've had the truck for 2 years and haven't figured them out. Ive had them go away for at most a day. Also the truck has a shake at 80 kmh not sure if its from the miss...
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My 2004 F350 6.0L v8 has a weird shake when I get between 45 and 55 mph. Doesn't feel like its the tires, feel like the engine. I think I might have the #5 glo plug out. Is that it or could something else be wrong? If it is this how bad is it to drive on.
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What are the main differences between the F-350 and the F-450?
I see now that you can get the wide track front axle on the F-350 as well.
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My 02 f250 started shaking violently until when I accelerated and the mechanic said it was the wiring harness in the computer. He said it was caused because of over revving I think it was just because the harness was old. Is it because of over revving? Will it happen again?
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On my way into work this morning, all the warning lights came on, along with the check engine wrench. My display was showing that I was overheating and the gauges stopped working. While this was happening, there was no noticeable change in the way the truck was performing.
After about a minute or two, the warning lights shut off and the gauges worked again as normal. The gauges did not show that the truck was overheating at that time. Another few minutes went by and the same thing happened again. Then the gauges came on and the warning lights shut off for the second time, it did not happen again for my 10 minute ride to work. On my way home this evening, this did not happen again.
The truck seems to be charging and the battery seems to holding a large as well. The truck is a 2015 F350 XLT 6.2 with about 9700 miles on it.
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Recently bought a 2015 f250 xlt.....very impressed with it. Only thing is the wheel feel and look to small. What is the largest size i can run stock? Will 35/12.5 fit on stock 17 wheels or should i just spring for aftermarket rims at the same time? Also exhaust options for the 6.2? Remember, i need load range e!
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Just did my first oil change on my 2015 Super Duty 6.2 engine. I got the Fram filter the book called for, a PH-2. There's goobs of room for the longer filter. Would that be the PH8A? The book is about to trying to figure the comparable long vs short filter. Why do they insist on those short filters when a full size will fit? My Dodge Ram Hemi was the same way.
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