Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Brake Dragging - Only Piston Closest To Fluid Inlet Came Out - Normal?
Apr 20, 2013
So I recently replaced my brakes and rotors with parts from frozen rotors. Today, I noticed a smell coming from my truck right before I got it home. I also noticed before the smell, it was pulling to the left. And when I braked, also pulling to the Left. I think I may have a brake dragging. I have heard about the caliper slide pins freezing, but when I replaced my brakes and rotors, none of them were frozen and appeared to be in good shape. I have the truck jacked up now with the wheel removed and didn't find anything apparent. I just took the caliper off and had my buddy press on the brake slowly while I watched the pistons. Only the piston closest to the fluid inlet came out. The other one did not move. Does this indicate any type of malfunction?
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Well just called it quits from working on the truck tonight. Had some issues with my brakes going to the floor and pulling to the right some, so I went to auto zone and bought all new pads. Didn't think it was time yet because I just replaced the rotors, pads, calipers, maybe 20,000 miles ago. When I got home and everything pulled apart I looked at the pads on the truck and they still had 60% life. I looked closely and noticed that the guider pins on the caliper bracket (front drivers side) were seized. I figured this is what was causing my truck to pull. Looked on the passenger side and it looked similar. Went back to auto zone and returned the pads and bought new brackets for both sides. I got the drivers side replaced and working and all seemed well. I got to the passenger and had a hell of a time getting the pistons on the caliper to compress so I could get it off. Once I finally got it, I noticed the pins on that side were not seized. I bought 2 sets of guider pins so I took the old ones out and greased up the new ones and installed them. Put everything back together and took the truck for a drive. Everything seemed normal at first, but once I got on the highway and hit the brakes, my truck pulled to the left. HARD.. Im assuming this is because of the pistons on the passenger side caliper I was having a problem with, not having the piston compress all the way causing my truck to pull. While I was looking at the caliper, I also noticed what '"looked" like a grease fitting, and also a bleeder valve a few inches away from it. Am I crazy, or is that fitting for bleeding the brake lines also...?
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after replacing rotors,calipers,pads,hoses and hardware with OEM parts TWICE now I'm still having issues with my brakes sticking and dragging!!! I am starting to suspect the pistons within the calipers themselves. I think that Quality (expensive) aftermarket parts is going to be my soulition but would like to get some input from some fellow Super Duty owners before I pull that trigger.
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The wife and I ventured out last Friday evening to run a few errands. When we returned to the house and pulled into the garage, we both smelled burning brake pad. I felt the rear wheels, the drivers side was too hot to touch.
Dragging brake caliper. I got online and reserved a drivers side caliper and a set of pads at NAPA. Saturday morning I removed the caliper. Much to my surprise, one of the caliper pistons was broken into multiple pieces.
I took the offending caliper to NAPA and picked up the new caliper and a set of pads.
Side note - NAPA seems to think the 2007 trucks have calipers that mount in front of the axle, not behind the axle. They will try to sell you a passenger side caliper and tell you it is a driver side caliper. It will bolt up fine, but the bleeder valve will be at the bottom of the caliper instead of the top. You'll never get the air out of the caliper.
Got back home, bolted up the new caliper and pads, then bled the system. All worked well.
I decided to throw new pads on the passenger side brakes as well, since I had 2 remaining. I took off the passenger side caliper, much to my surprise I found a cracked and broken piston on that side also! Another run to NAPA to pick up another caliper. Installed, bled the system again, all working well.
Now, I have never seen a cracked and broken caliper piston like this, let alone one on each side of the rear axle. What might have caused this? About a year ago I had a shop install new backing plates. The pads and calipers are about 3 years old, same shop installed those.
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Back, I flushed when it turned opaque...
Then I bought a car engineered to last more than just a couple 100K miles and was surprised to find a lot of items in the preventive maintenance list that I never thought about.
It recommended flushing every 30K or 2 years. A bit of research showed this was also recommended by several other manufacturers. Even more common with advent of ABS.
So now I try to flush at least every 2 or 3 years.
I still have not found any recommendations from Ford or GM? Either I'm blind or (cynic stepping in) they still don't expect vehicles to last that long... Or like to sell replacement parts?
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Should brake fluid be changed periodically? If so, how often?
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My brake fluid reservoir is real flimsy. I was checking fluids and noticed when I touched it, It felt like it was going to fall off.
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I have replaced the cruise control cut off switch and post-recall pig tail twice in two years for fluid leaks. Whats the deal do they all leak?
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I have a 2008 f-250 6.4 Diesel. Yesterday the Brake Fluid light came on. I thought maybe a sensor, but once I parked and checked I realized my brake fluid was down to the Min line. I started looking for a leak and it was apparent that it was the front drivers wheel area.
I am attaching a picture of the brake. The leak is either coming from the area where the fluid line runs into the gold thing (caliper?) or the bolt at the bottom of the gold thing.
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I have power steering fluid leaking out of the bottom of the Brake master cylinder out of a round hole. Every time I pushed brakes it leaks a good amount of power steering fluid out. Why it would do this and is there a screw missing out of the hole or what?
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I have a 2005 F350 XL Heavy Duty 6.0L truck that has 68,XXX miles. I recently changed the rear brake pads and about a week later the rear passenger side is leaking brake fluid. The fluid is slowly dripping from the bottom caliper bolt but i am not sure if there are seals in this area. the driver side is fine and the fluid is only leaking from the bottom caliper bolt not the top.
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I bored and tapped one of the spark plug holes in my Triton engine. And I used a long aluminum rod attachment for my air compressor to blow out the metal bits from inside the cylinder. I started with a full tank of air, and used it all up to try and get everything out that I could. But with my bore-scope I could see a lot left over along the edges of the piston. So two more times I filled up, and emptied the air tank (15 gallons, 150psi). Some more of the chips came out, but after the second time there were still some chips there, and the third time didn't work much.
My bore-scope doesn't have the best resolution, but I think there are a few chips that are stuck between the piston and the cylinder wall. Since there were only a few, and they are aluminum, I decided to do what I saw another youtuber do. I just started the engine for a few moments without the spark plug, so I might blow out any remaining chips (although he did it without first using compressed air at all.)
That was the first cylinder I bored, tapped, and installed an insert into. But for the other cylinders, I would like to avoid any metal bits left in the cylinder. But I can't think of any way to prevent some from wedging themselves between the piston and wall (if that's what is happening).
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2011 f250 6.2. put it in the shop to have the rotors turned, and front brakes while they were under there. Now it pulls to the right whenever you apply the brakes. Can smell brakes on the left front after a short drive time. Replaced that caliper and it's still doing the same thing. I'm stumped at this point.
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The brakes seam to be dragging on my F550.It won't roll when out of gear. Noticed a good deal of brake dust on all 4 corners after just a couple hundred miles. Also,when it does roll I can some times hear it creak slightly. At not time does it lose any braking action nor does the brake pedal get hard or soft.I know it will need pads and rotors soon since the rotors are pretty grooved. (Just bought the truck last month....it's on my LOOOOONG to do list.....).
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Truck is 2007 6.0L 4 door F-250 FX4
So this started after some High water encounters around my area. All freshwater. Went to the store and then i notice the truck pulling Left and got home and checked brake temps and the driver front and rear were over 400*F passenger side was 150* or less. No trailer no load in the bed. I decided to clean everything. Pads are worn but still have life.
Rotors showed some signs of where the pad is dragging Not bad though just a small area close to the top hat. I cleaned pads, carriage, and clips and reinstalled everything with some anti seize on the edges of the pads where the clips are and at the same spots on the carriage.
Thought it was ok but the after more water and a day or two sitting the same thing happened again. It is only the drivers side and it's both front and rear. I am stumped on this one. Two calipers going bad at once? I need to tow a boat on Monday So I have got to fix this.
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I was wondering what is the normal range of trans temp in this truck? I was driving home last night and after a couple burst of wot , getting on the freeway, I checked the info display and it showed 200 degrees for Trans fluid. Truck was unloaded with 80 degree Temps.Also I guess how accurate is the dash Guage? does this seem like higher than normal Temps? 15 f350 cc sb 11 k miles ,gas motor. i aslo drove another couple miles coasting around and the temp never dropped past 196 .
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How many rounds can you turn your steering wheel each way? Mine goes not quite 2 rounds, I think it's been limited.
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I have a 1999 F350 V10 and the other day I started her up she fired right up like normal but a few seconds go by and she dies.. I noticed I do have an exhaust manifold issue I have 5 total bolts broken off out of the 20. My question is could the v10 die because of an exhaust leak? Or could it be a vacuum leak? Also after I started her back up when I put her in reverse she idles real rough. I don't believe it to be a plug or coil because all are new.
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I don't do much city driving with my rig. And when I do, I head straight to the back of any parking lots I encounter. But I decided to take the ol' girl to a big empty church lot today to get a feel for its turning radius.
I found that it makes a tighter left turn vs. a right turn. And the difference is 6-8 feet. I repeated this many times. Steering wheel was fully locked in both directions.
Is this normal? Others experienced this? It drives straight and true and the alignment was given a clean bill of health not too long ago. Weird.
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I have owned an 03 Excursion that I have had since last November that has started to feel like the steering is badly broken for a few hundred feet some times and then goes back to normal. It will do it some times after taking a corner and then suddenly there is a 1/4 turn play in the front and its wondering in the lane as I correct it back and forth and then it stops and goes back to normal. I've checked it and it all seems good and tight. The truck is stock height and has stock size wheels....
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On my 2002 F250 7.3 I kept getting a check engine light when I pulled my 5th wheel uphill, I took it to a shop and they told me my HPOP needed replaced. I bought a new pump and installed it. Now my check engine light comes on and turns off during normal driving conditions. I do not have a code yet but hoping there is some idea on what might have happened.
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