Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Erratic Steering For A Few Hundred Feet Sometimes And Then Goes Back To Normal
May 11, 2014
I have owned an 03 Excursion that I have had since last November that has started to feel like the steering is badly broken for a few hundred feet some times and then goes back to normal. It will do it some times after taking a corner and then suddenly there is a 1/4 turn play in the front and its wondering in the lane as I correct it back and forth and then it stops and goes back to normal. I've checked it and it all seems good and tight. The truck is stock height and has stock size wheels....
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My 2003 F250 6.0 It started about a month ago and got worse. Let truck idle for 4-5minutes and idle will jump a few hundred rpms. Got worse as it idles and cant figure it out. It eventually died and died once while driving but starred right back up.
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How many rounds can you turn your steering wheel each way? Mine goes not quite 2 rounds, I think it's been limited.
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I have a 2000 F-350,7.3, 6 speed. Just the other day I made a turn and my passenger got her feet wet. It had been raining and I also had the ac on. A couple of days later the same thing happened, but it had not rained, just the ac on. What is causing this. I do see condensate discharging under the truck.
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An odd noise just started recently where as I'm turning left, a popping noise happens seemingly right under my feet. I don't have a video, but I can probably try to take one later. It sounds like something is loose and when the weight shifts off of the left side of the truck, something is shifting and groaning.
I lifted the truck up yesterday and there is no play in the ball joints, wheel bearings, sway bar/end links, or tie rod ends. There is no play in the shock or in the spring, nor is there any movement in the radius arm or where the axle mounts to the body.
I should probably add some info on the truck. '00 V10 CCSB 2wd. I can't see anything out of the ordinary, and can't reproduce the sound unless the truck is in motion.
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I have a 2000 Ford F-250 that I have just replaced the tie rod ends on both wheels. The hole where the tie rod attaches to the right steering knuckle getting wallowed out? When I turn the wheel I can see the tie rod end rocking back and forth.
Now if I keep tightening it down it would pull it down past the cotter pin hole exposing way more threads than any to the other tie rod ends. I've searched everywhere and can't find anything that refers to this problem.
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So now, what I'm noticing is a bit of a clunk in the steering. It's minor, very minor... but like any problem they usually start that way. The sound is very faint, you can't hear it under the truck, only slightly in the cab but you can feel it in the steering wheel, not so much when driving but when sitting still in a parking spot it's pretty obvious if you rotate the wheel back and forth. You can also feel it in the floor. Sometimes I'll notice this if I hit a bump while I'm driving.
Here's what I know, if you grab the tie rod, either end, you get a slight bit of rotation. Not just one end moving, but the whole thing has a small amount of forward back rotation (I'm not sure if this is normal) I had my girlfriend turn the steering wheel while I checked different components and there didn't seem to be any left right play on the tie rods. The boots look good on the tie rods ends, pic included, looks of similar quality of drivers side.
Then the kicker, here's where I noticed the gobs of grease on the top end drag link, pic also included. This was the last link I looked at, and I guess least expected.
So I guess I'm thinking this drag link is bad, but this is my first stop on the advice train. I wiped off the boot that was covered in grease on the drag link and it looked like its in fine enough condition but I also seriously doubt the shop that added the leveling kit just decided to slob grease all over the outside of this drag link boot. I have my truck oil undercoated before every winter but, that was some bit ago, and this looked more like grease to me.
Truck background: 2012 F250 6.7, I'm at 42,000 miles, 34in tires for most of that, and more recently added a 2 inch leveling kit (40,000 miles) and replaced the suspension all around and added a dual stabilizer. I had some noise coming from the drivers side wheel-well a while back and found that one of the end links on the sway bars was simply loose. Tightened up and all good to go. At 30,000 I got some death wobble. Replaced tires, the stock stabilizer had also gone bad, and had an alignment. Everything good since, but I'm thinking some of these problems now might be remnant of the bad tires.
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I have a 1999 f350 7.3. I'm having a problem where the steering wheel shakes back and forth and the whole truck wobbles. It happens at all speeds, but shakes faster at faster speeds, slower at slower speeds. At first the wheel was just jerking randomly but then I made a right turn, heard a pop, and then it was shaking like crazy. I jacked up the truck and checked the ball joints, checked for and play in the tie rods, and turned the wheel left and right. Everything seems ok so I can't figure out what is causing to wheel to go back and forth.
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I have erratic changing of directions of the air control. It'll be on ac it will then change to feet or defrost. then stay on that for a while and flip again. It'll then stay on that one( usually vents). I'm guessing the selector switch or the vacuum egr valve.
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I replaced the steering gear box in my 06 F250 CCLB 6.8 over the weekend with a reman Cardone. The old gear box had what I can best describe as a chatter/binding if you rocked the wheel back and forth, that's gone now. I sucked out as much fluid as I could, then filled the reservoir several times while the fluid ran out, what came out was very cloudy and gritty, guessing the old box was chewing itself up.
Can't seem to find a straight answer - what fluid SHOULD this have in it?
Sounds like I should have used Mercon, looks like I grabbed Type F instead. Could that cause the steering effort to be extremely light? I mean like ridiculously light, tip of your pinkie barely touching and turning the wheel light?
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I'm having an issue on my 2002 F350 7.3. Today I hop in it and drive off I notice my speedometer stopped working. My overdrive light on the shifter started flashing. The trans seems like its not shifting correctly. It will eventually shift into overdrive but not always. Also now when I start off my fuel gauge raises and when I come to a stop it drops all the way to E and causes the ding and fuel light to light up. I figured this was all due to the VSS being bad. So I drove over to Autozone bought another VSS and a cheap tool set and changed it in the parking lot. No dice. I do have a scanner to pull the trans code but its late and I just got home.
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My dads 05 f250 6.0 PSD. He says he'll take off in the morning and the fuel gauge will randomly drop to empty and trigger the low fuel light, but then also the Check Engine Light will come on. My brother did a code scan and no codes come up. Where we should be looking to remedy this one?
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The truck belongs to a very good customer of mine and is a 05 f350sd 6.0 td with 5r110 torqshift tranny. The vehicle presents with these symptoms and codes....
-there is a delay from p to r and its intermittent, sometimes it will be in a weak reverse where it wont creep unless you give it some gas, sometimes it will hit reverse hard after this. sometimes it bangs reverse
-there is a delay into drive intermittently with the same symptoms as reverse where sometimes it bangs and sometimes it will take a little throttle to get it moving
-once the trans is hot (operating temperature) it has trouble downshifting. my solus tells me sometimes it tries to start off in 3 or 5 then sometimes it will bang back down into first and almost chirp tire with little throttle input
-tow haul light will flash after several miles and then it only has 1-2-3-4 no 5-6. then the starting off symptoms get worse
-throws codes for
p0766 shift sol d performance/stuck
p2701 friction element b apply time range/performance
p2703 friction element d apply time range/performance
p0700 trans control system fault.
So far the ideas i have are as follows
replace solenoid D
direct clutch replacement and seals for corresponding drum
torque converter replacement and pump replacement
harness rub through between pcm and transmission
The truck has had similar issues a year ago. Upon testing line pressure i found it was out of spec and replaced the epc. (electronic pressure control solenoid) and this cleared most of it up . I have had the pan down many times and the fluid has not been burnt and there is little debris in the pan. nothing i would consider beyond normal wear. Tomorrow I will be dropping the pan again to inspect the magnet and fluid as well as the condition of the harness. i will post my findings at that time. I am hoping between now and then some of you will be able to point out a few possibilities to get me on the right track.
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I was wondering what is the normal range of trans temp in this truck? I was driving home last night and after a couple burst of wot , getting on the freeway, I checked the info display and it showed 200 degrees for Trans fluid. Truck was unloaded with 80 degree Temps.Also I guess how accurate is the dash Guage? does this seem like higher than normal Temps? 15 f350 cc sb 11 k miles ,gas motor. i aslo drove another couple miles coasting around and the temp never dropped past 196 .
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I have a 1999 F350 V10 and the other day I started her up she fired right up like normal but a few seconds go by and she dies.. I noticed I do have an exhaust manifold issue I have 5 total bolts broken off out of the 20. My question is could the v10 die because of an exhaust leak? Or could it be a vacuum leak? Also after I started her back up when I put her in reverse she idles real rough. I don't believe it to be a plug or coil because all are new.
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I don't do much city driving with my rig. And when I do, I head straight to the back of any parking lots I encounter. But I decided to take the ol' girl to a big empty church lot today to get a feel for its turning radius.
I found that it makes a tighter left turn vs. a right turn. And the difference is 6-8 feet. I repeated this many times. Steering wheel was fully locked in both directions.
Is this normal? Others experienced this? It drives straight and true and the alignment was given a clean bill of health not too long ago. Weird.
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On my 2002 F250 7.3 I kept getting a check engine light when I pulled my 5th wheel uphill, I took it to a shop and they told me my HPOP needed replaced. I bought a new pump and installed it. Now my check engine light comes on and turns off during normal driving conditions. I do not have a code yet but hoping there is some idea on what might have happened.
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2005 f350srw 6.0 ps. If I stomp it for less than about 5 seconds no issues. Passing a car on a 2 lane or pulling a grade with the 5'r (longer sustained high boost over about 5 seconds) it will pull fine until normal driving recurs. Once normal driving recurs, converter locked 5th gear zero boost on accell. If I mash it to down shift it will stumble stumble stumble black smoke then finally boost fine. Let off same no boost issue. It seems to "reset" after about 4 miles/ 4 minutes. Sct canned tunes/ custom tunes don't make a diff. My dd is idp unlimited tow and 40 ficm tune. I cleaned ebp tube and sensor no change. Haven't tested sensor. I'm wondering if it's low fuel pressure related. Fixing to sell truck and want to fix this. Been going on for a year or so. Hasn't always been this way.
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Ok so here here goes I have a 1999 f250 super duty with 5.4 triton it seems to be over heating but the gage stays in the normal operating temperature range. I just changed the water pump. Could it be the thermostat and Would it hurt to remove the thermostat until I can get one...
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Question, my truck started to have a miss under normal acceleration, when I really get on it, it clears up? I also noticed a bad sulfer smell at idle. Im thinking the cat is possibly plugged? Truck had 172000ish on it, and the cat is original. I did do a big tune up this past fall, new plugs, coil packs, air and fuel filter. Should I put a new cat on it? And a new oxygen sensor?
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So I recently replaced my brakes and rotors with parts from frozen rotors. Today, I noticed a smell coming from my truck right before I got it home. I also noticed before the smell, it was pulling to the left. And when I braked, also pulling to the Left. I think I may have a brake dragging. I have heard about the caliper slide pins freezing, but when I replaced my brakes and rotors, none of them were frozen and appeared to be in good shape. I have the truck jacked up now with the wheel removed and didn't find anything apparent. I just took the caliper off and had my buddy press on the brake slowly while I watched the pistons. Only the piston closest to the fluid inlet came out. The other one did not move. Does this indicate any type of malfunction?
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