Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Heater Blowing Cold Then Truck Overheated And Pushing Coolant Out Of Cap
Mar 3, 2016
My '01 Super Duty 5.4 has an overheating/heater problem that the dealer can't seem to fix. I noticed my heater was blowing cold then a few miles later it overheated pushing coolant out of cap. Next day drove fine to Ford dealer who replaced my heater core, thermostat, reservoir cap and a hose. Drove it for a day till the exact original symptoms occurred again with a gurgling sound in dash. Dealer kept for a week pressurizing system but no leaks found. Replaced my thermostat again and gave it back. I drove it 300 miles over a week before the exact same symptoms occurred. Brought back to dealer who said that air was in the system, added a bunch of coolant and supposedly got all the air out. Same symptoms still. Brought back to dealer that finally changed the water pump they said had a leak. Guess what, same symptoms. Heater will work fine for days then it will blow cold, then hot, then cold and sooner or later truck will overheat then just as fast cool down and heater will work again. Still hearing gurgling. Dealer said I don't have a HCV.
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I have a 2006 Ford F-250 coolant leak only when the truck is cold. Ive noticed it in the morning when I leaving for work. It looked liked it was coming from the passenger side yesterday and today it's on the drivers side when I'm sure is because my driveway has a small tilt to it I've looked everywhere I could under the hood and don't see it leaking.
I don't have any temp problems or white smoke and my coolant level has changed that much and for a few days the drip stopped now it's back. I tried to search for the answer but can't find it. I'm just wanted to make sure it's not the head gasket but I'm sure I would have a sign it it was. I will include where I saw it dripping from. It's parked on flat ground here ... That's where I saw a drip coming from driver side ....
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2001 F250 5.4. The heater will blow warm air at idle and on the second highest setting, once you start moving or turn the fan up to full blast it instantly cools off. The coolant level is fine. The engine runs at a normal temp.The blend door does work. I just replaced the thermostat, and both hoses for the heater core are hot.
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I can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
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I got my 1999 f250 super duty v10 about a month ago. It had 200,700 some miles on it. It's now at 201,865. My issue is when I turn on my heater I smell coolant. It's kinda strong. No leaks that I can see. Not in the ground or in the cab or from what I can see of the heater core. It only smells when the heat is on, no smell on the cold setting. It sat for months before I bought it from a dealership. What it could be? Ok now it sounds like I have the ticking death sound. The one people have said happens when spark plugs are about to fail. So I guess new plugs are in order.
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So when i shut my truck off the heater will occasional keep blowing. it also has a string of LED type lights inside the dash by the speedometer, those also stay on sometimes. It's happened before and we thought we had it fixed. We had a whole new fuse box put in and some kind of module. What could be the problem? I am thinking maybe some kind of wiring?
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My 2011 F-250 just started having a weird heater problem. My truck heater gets up to temp just fine but after cruising down the highway for about 15 minutes or so it starts blowing out cool air. I can turn the controls to defrost and back again and it blows warm, not hot but warm then cool again. It just started a couple of days ago. Temp gauges show normal temp also.
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I crawled under my truck today (2011 6.7 w/delete kit, straight pipe) and found a black rigid hose had signs of oil being blown out. The hose was about midway towards the back on the drivers side. There was fresh oil around the outside of the opening of the hose and some on the frame around the hose opening. I traced it back up into the engine into something that I'm not sure what it is and couldn't find it on any engine diagrams. So I've taken some pictures, what it is, what it's connecting to in the engine and why it might be blowing oil out. There isn't a lot, I haven't seen any on the ground where I park but it's obviously coming out, I guess when I drive. Pics attached.....
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My truck keeps blowing fuse 28 in the inside fuse box. This fuse belongs to the ignition relay, and only blows when I go to start the truck. It is intermittent
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I was driving from home to work the other day and it was 6 degrees out. My heat was working good and everything was fine and then all of a sudden the passenger side started blowing cool air. Not cold not warm. Driver side was still hot. It is a lariat and has dual temp zones. Everything I read everyone says blender doors but what would make it stop working out of no where when everything was fine. Occasionally when I start my truck and turn the heat on it makes a popping noise under the dash when the blower kicks on. But it has done this since I owned it an never had an issue. It's 25 below today and I would really love to have completely functional heat. It's an 2008 f350.
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I've got a 2005 F-350 PSD KR. At highway speeds I get heat coming out everywhere it should. In stop-and-go traffic or at idle, the fan just blows cold air. Once back up to speed, hot air starts blowing again.
The fan stays running and the heat position (lower/upper-vents/defrost) stays the same. Just the temperature of the air blowing thru changes.
Things I know it isn't, thermostat is fairly new, anti-freeze is topped off, and the radiator cap is both good and on like it should be.
It sounds like maybe the blend-door or a vacuum leak according to a few of the posts I found with similar symptoms.
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My truck is a 2005 6.0 with no after mods and has 73000 miles on it. It began to blow white smoke out exhaust. I changed out the egr valve and cooler. After putting back together it then blew white smoke ran it to clear out. This worked however once it warmed up it began to blow thick white smoke at 20 mph and clears up by the time it reached 30mph and white smoke shoots out at rapid acceleration. As well there is coolant leaking out under the truck from somewhere in the motor about in the center. I am looking to work on this myself as I have heard of owners taking it to shops and paying a lot of money for the prob to not get fixed.
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I think the truck needs a recharge, it's not blowing any cold air. The question is - which port do I use? There's one on the top of the accumulator and another in the line just off the passenger side of the radiator, near the coolant tank.
My only recharge experience was after I replaced a leaking accumulator in my 2007 Crown Vic police interceptor, and this obviously doesn't look quite the same.
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Background : 2002 Excursion 7.3L, 320k miles ...
AC was working OK, but not great. Then AC stopped blowing cold at all. Checked pulley, gap was huge, but pulley bearing was completely destroyed. Like, 1/2" wobble, half the ball bearings in there. Amazed it hadn't seized. Replaced pulley, set air gap to bottom of the spec.
Air seems to blow kinda cold briefly, then fades to no cooling after a couple minutes. Same at idle or moving. Front and rear both not cold. Lines in engine bay are cool, but not real cold
Compressor body feels hot, like...right at that threshold of too hot to touch. Don't have pressure gauges, but will buy/borrow some and take some readings.
What would symptoms of a clogged orifice tube be? What would symptoms of a clogged condenser be? If low on r134, I could refill, but any tips on chasing down leaks?
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Here's what's happening:
I can have it on hot and be driving along, then it will start blowing cold air. I can move the temperature switch to cold then back to hot, and it'll start blowing hot air again.
Need to know if that would be temp or the motor? I don't want to just change parts randomly.
03 F250
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I have a 2000 f-350 that overheated 2 months ago I replaced the radiator...it seemed fine for a month then started blowing cold air then would start to overheat and back and forth so I replaced the thermosat.......but when i checked the old one with a cooking theromometer it was fine. not long after that the heater core started leaking so i replaced that..and now its back and forth overheating and blowing cold air....then fine for 1/2 hour..then back and forth again.. Truck has 250,000 miles on it
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I have a leak where my heater core tube goes into the intake at the rear pass side of engine. I have read that this part is pressed in. I dont want to remove the intake since i just paid $400 to have a new gasket kit put on. My question is can I bypass this tube with a hose from the water pump like in this video?
FORD 4.6 , 5.4 , 6.8, HEATER HOSE UNDER INTAKE REPLACEMENT THE EASY WAY !!! - YouTube....
If I can do a rubber hose like in the video I was to make sure that the tube just goes through the intake and that it does not supple coolant into the intake??
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The heater blows cold air from the driver side only. Very cold. Vey hot on passenger side.I have read that this is likely a blend door issue. Comments? Fluids are full. I hear slight noises from under the dash like "click click" like a door is trying to activate?? Truck out of warranty. If it is the door I heard the driver side is not as tough to install. Again comments? Instructions?
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2002 F350 with V10. A/C stopped blowing cold. I can hear the clutch clicking on and off, so probably needs refrigerant? Other thing is that with A/C off, the temp control turned to cold, and fan on, it blows hot air. On my other vehicles with A/C off and temp turned to cold, I get outside air at ambient temp.
I removed the cover off the evap core under the dash and observed the blend door opening and closing as the temp selector is moved. The duct door moves correctly, so am I'm missing something? Is the Ford system such that ambient air is always heated? This happens even in cold temp conditions.
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This week was our first nice week of the year. Monday I got in my truck at lunch time turned the a.c. on and it blew ice cold. Today my truck sat in the sun all day and I got in it and turned the a.c. on. I noticed instead of the normal "click" you hear when the clutch engages in the a.c. compressor I got a wine and wimper kind of noise. The system never cooled the air after this happened. Is the compressor shot? Is it safe to drive or is the compressor going to tear itself up and send metal pieces thru the system?
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So I have been troubleshooting a few cooling issues and I am currently at a loss of WTF is going on with this thing. The truck is a 99 5.4L SD and has no heat and was burping a little coolant.
The truck was originally burping coolant out of the overflow tank. After verifying that it was not a head gasket by all means except the exhaust gas test. I replaced the overflow tank and cap.
Now the truck is holding pressure fine but I do not have heat. Here is what I have done:
I replaced the blend door actuator--no heat
I went to flush the heater core and since the quick disconnects were such a bitch to get off I decided ti replace it while I was at it. --still no heat,
New thermostat 195 deg --no heat
The radiator is brand new
Supposedly the water pump was replaced by the previous owner I have all the receipts for the truck so I could double check
Truck seems to circulate coolant fine i measured temps at the water outlet with an IR thermometer peaking at about 175~10 deg due to accuracy of the thermometer and heat loss due to thermal variations the lower radiator hose and reservoir coolant temps were around 76~10 degrees so the radiator is working as advertised . Truck doesn't overheat, granted after draining and replacing the coolant the temp gauge did climb some while driving until i worked out all the air pockets but still didn't overheat.
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