Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Power Steering Stiff And Almost Impossible To Turn Wheels At A Dead Stop
Jan 19, 2005
I have a 2001 F250 SD V10 and when at a dead stop and with the brakes applied, steering becomes very stiff and almost impossible to turn the wheels. If I let off of the brakes and move a little the steering is just fine. I hate like hell to spend the money on a new power steering pump if it isn't going to fix the problem. Simply put, deap stop, brakes on, wheels don't want to steer. How do I fix it?
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I have been having trouble with my 2002 F250 SD, the steering at low RPM is next to impossible.. If i put it into N I can rev the engine and it gets "easier" but not very. I do not want to replace the pump and find out that it wasn't the problem...
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My steering got real "heavy" almost as if I had no power steering so I replaced the power steering pump. The steering got a little easier but is still very stiff. It's extremely hard to turn at low speed just off idle...I have to rev the engine a bit to get it to turn.This is on my 1999 7.3 f350...I've ran 33" and 35" tires on it it's whole life and this is the first PS pump I've replaced since 1999...never replaced the steering box.
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I just bought the truck 2 days ago and the power steering is acting up. When I test drove it I noticed the power assist seemed weak but it has gotten way worse over 2 days.
Truck is a 2001 F250 4x4 V10 auto. 60k miles and totally stock except for Harley Edition wheels and stock size tires.
Now at a complete stop the wheel won't turn at all. If I roll it works. Doesn't matter if I rev the engine. It doesn't matter if I'm on or off the brakes. Tires have plenty of air. The pump is quiet and does not make any abnormal noises.
This is terrible because how can you maneuver a trailer if you can't turn the wheels when stopped.
I noticed the fluid was low and not reading on the dipstick. I added a few ounces and that's all it took with no change. I then used a suction pump to empty the reservoir with the truck off. The fluid was very dirty, probably the original fluid given the mileage. I removed about a quart and refilled it with fresh Mercon ATF. I also changed the serpentine belt because I noticed the belt was probably the original and was cracked.
It went away briefly tonight as I was playing with it. I thought I fixed it but I was fooled. What I did was remove the reservoir cap and turn the wheel from lock to lock while rolling forward slowly. Suddenly it was fixed . But 5 minutes later the problem was back.
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I have an 06 F-250 5.4 gas w/138k. It had recently had a lot of play on the wheel (15 degrees maybe) and last week I made the move to replace the gearbox with a redhead box. All seemed to go ok, but now the steering is stiff and it won't come all the way back to center after a turn. It turns smoothly and completely with no binding, but it has to be moved the last 1/3 turn back to center.
I flushed the fluid initially with Valvoline max life fully syn. Then second guessed myself after the problem started happening so I switched it back to regular Mercon. No improvement.
I had it on stands today and it was extremely difficult for me to turn my tires left to right manually (at the wheel). The only other thing I did was adjust the sleeve on the drag link to straighten out the steering wheel.
Should I be able to turn the tires left and right from the wheel easily? Every now and then I hear a whine from the pump which I never had before, but 99% of the time it seems fine and is quiet. it just feels like something is over tight but everything should be to spec.
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My 01 f-250 4x4 diesel has some steering wander Ive been fighting for a while. It feels like the front end is stiff and not returning right. All four spindle ball joints were replaced in the last year and a half. The tie rod ends seem to spin easily enough with a wrench but are not loose. MY question is how hard should it be to rotate the spindles with no tires or tie rods on them, wondering if my newer ball joints are too stiff and causing the wander or if everything checks out it my alignment being a little off would cause poor return?
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I got a 2011 250 SD 6.2, I have what feels like a catch in the steering, on center, when you turn the wheel feels like it just gives and stay's there, either way you turn, Checked front end, ball joints tie rods etc., the hubs are unlocked, feels like when the u-joint on the steering shaft goes bad and you get that bind. But this truck doesn't have them anymore, just a rag joint at the box. It only binds at center, and wont return, took steering stabilizer off and road tested same thing, air in tires good all the way around, has about 58,000 miles on it.
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I just replaced the ball joints on my 99 F250 SD 4x4. Driver side was a bit stiff to turn the knuckle. Passenger side is very hard to turn. The upper stud wanted to turn in the sleeve after torquing to spec. I had to lean on it to lock it into place. I have to check today to see if parts store is open to get a new set. The brand name is "Drive Works". I have installed ball joints in this vehicle previously, and in another Ford truck with the same style. I have the proper tools to do the job. I have to determine if both joints are tight or just the upper. I won't buy the same brand again.
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I have a ford f350 super duty that has a little problem turning to the left but is really hard to turn to the right. How do I fix this?
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I have a 2002 F-250 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4. My truck has developed a "clunk" for lack of a better term when accelerating from a dead stop. It is not a shudder as it only happens once within a few seconds of depressing the accelerator and then goes away until the next time I stop moving.
It feels like either something in the drivetrain is not engaging right away, or something is releasing, like a stuck caliper or something. From the way it feels and what I've read so far about the TC/Trans, I'm assuming it is something worn in the drive-shaft/rear diff.
But it needs brakes badly (already have all new rotors & pads ready to install) so maybe a caliper is sticking when depressed and then popping loose under initial acceleration? I think this is unlikely but possible.
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My Superduty recently started clunking when I accelerate from a dead stop. The harder I hit the gas,the harder it clunks. I unbolted the driveshaft from the rear end and the yoke slides easily. Tranny mount looks tight. Could it be the front driveshaft? Sometimes when I brake hard and the truck comes to a complete stop it will do it too.
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Every time I try turning at idle or with foot on brake it wont turn at all. Is this just a super duty thing or vacuum leak or power steering pump going?
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I replaced the power steering pump on my 2000 f250 Power stroke. I bled the lines, and when the wheels are on the ground, I have no steering. When I raise the wheels off the ground, I have no problems turning stop to stop.
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I just bought a 99 f250 2wd with 290k on it and my only issues are brake shutter and steering play.
The steering has about an inch to two dead space at center while driving. The truck tracks straight and doesn't wander at all. I was wanting input on what i should look at first to fix the dead space in the wheel. Its a little iffy having to steer through dead area to get steering output.
I just need something good so I can do it once and not have warped rotors again.
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My son has a 2003 Super Duty with auto locks, but the front wheels won't lock even when turn to locked position. Also when it's in two wheel drive the front drive shaft and axles still spin, are the hubs locked up or is it in the transfer case?
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I have a 2000 f250 with auto/manual locking hubs and today the 4x4 quit working. The light comes on the dash and the drive shaft and u joints turn but the front wheels don't turn even when its locked in. I assume its the hubs? And when I am going down the highway about 75 the front starts making a hellacious noise but stops if I slow down is this connected?
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I am experiencing what feels like a "bump in the rear" when initially starting from a dead stop. It feels like a car behind me tapped the bumper or that the truck "hunkers down" first, then moves. Tranny seems fine also. Once moving, there is no problem whatsoever. There atre no noises, leaks, or other symptoms. Also, when coming to a stop, it feels the same way just before the truck completely stops. If I drift forward a little, then apply the accelerator, it does not "slip" or hunker down.
Took it to the dealer and they claim that they can't find anything wrong and may just be the suspension releasing? The truck does this whether loaded or not?
2001 F250 CC Lariat SB 7.3
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I bought a 2005 F350 in January of 2012. At the time of purchase, I noticed that the truck seemed slow to turn over. I talked the dealer into installing 2 new 750 CCA Ford batteries at the time of sale.
I have put less than 7,000 miles on the truck since the day I bought it. In August of 2012, I went to start the truck and the batteries were completely dead. I charged them, started the truck, and the next day the truck was dead again.
I took the batteries out, and took them to the dealer. They replaced both of them under warranty. They said that after they charged them, each tested at less than 85 CCA.
In July of 2013, the same thing happened. I used the truck one day, and then the next day the batteries were completely dead. I had them tested at the dealer, and the passenger side battery failed the test. The driver's side passed. They replaced the passenger side under warranty, again. This time, they also cleaned all battery / ground connections and tested the charging system. Everything passed.
Last week, I went to start the truck. Same thing again. Took the truck to the dealer, and both batteries, after charging, failed the test. They replaced both batteries under warranty.This time, on each battery, the dealer had written with yellow paint pen on the batteries AND on the radiator shroud "BATTERY NOT UNDER WARRANTY."
I asked the dealer about this, and they said that since they have replaced 5 batteries in the truck, and since it has 152,000 miles on it, the warranty is no longer valid. I argued that since they have checked the truck thoroughly, and found no issues with the charging system, they can't void the warranty like that.
So, what is the reason why the batteries would fail like that, and that frequently?
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Yesterday I was parked on an incline with my front wheels on gravel and the rear wheels on wet grass/mud. When I tried to go, the rear wheels started spinning. I then switched on the low 4x4, and tried to go. The rear wheels continued to spin, but the front did not turn. I had new wheels installed, that has a cap that covers the manual locking hub, so I couldn't turn it to lock the hub. What should I look for to fix the problem?
2007 F250 4X4 Larriat SRW
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So, don't know if this is normal or not, but after lifting the rig, I'm experiencing a whole lot of these types of sounds from the leafs or the springs or whatever, whenever I start, stop, or turn. Is there an easy way to silence the noise? I've tried all sorts of lubricants on the leafs and springs, but I only get (at best) a week of muted noises. While it's only an inconvenience, it sure would be nice to have the rig be quiet again.
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Just got an inexpensive LED Stop/Turn/Taillight Bar my problem is it has (3) wires Red, Black and White while the available connection from the old bar has only (2) wires Black and White with Red Dots.
The wiring instructions for the new LED bar says (1) Attach black wire to tail lamp circuit(+), (2) Attach the Red wire to the stop/turn circuit(+) and (3) Attach white wire to a good ground(-) location.
How I should hook this up? My thought is Black to Black , Red to White with Red Dots and White to Frame metal.
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