Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2007 F250 Auto 4x4 Not Engaging - Rear Wheels Spinning / Front Did Not Turn
Mar 14, 2016
Yesterday I was parked on an incline with my front wheels on gravel and the rear wheels on wet grass/mud. When I tried to go, the rear wheels started spinning. I then switched on the low 4x4, and tried to go. The rear wheels continued to spin, but the front did not turn. I had new wheels installed, that has a cap that covers the manual locking hub, so I couldn't turn it to lock the hub. What should I look for to fix the problem?
2007 F250 4X4 Larriat SRW
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I have a 2000 f250 with auto/manual locking hubs and today the 4x4 quit working. The light comes on the dash and the drive shaft and u joints turn but the front wheels don't turn even when its locked in. I assume its the hubs? And when I am going down the highway about 75 the front starts making a hellacious noise but stops if I slow down is this connected?
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I'm trying to figure out why my auto locking hubs do not engage. To isolate the problem shouldn't the hub engage if a vacuum is applied to that hub only? A solid 18 inHg is maintained at that hub for over 10 minutes but the selector will not rotate, which suggests to me the seals are OK. What then might be the problem?
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I have a 2000 f250 CCSB 4x4 with the ESOF auto hubs. The auto hubs won't engage automatically. They work fine manually. The transfer case is engaging and correct lights are coming on. There is a little bit of vacuum coming from the vacuum switch but it doesn't seem like much to me. All the dash HVAC controls work fine though. I Lubed and cleaned inside the hubs according to Guzzles directions.
While torn down, I blew through the vacuum port on the outside of the hub and there was little to no restriction. I don't think there is enough vacuum to pull the hubs, but is that possible if all the dash controls work fine? What pressure should it take to engage them? My next step is to pick up a vacuum pump and see if I can engage them with it.
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I have a 2008 F250 XLT. When i am driving and turn the wheel a squeak is noticeable while the tire is spinning. as i speed up the squeak gets faster and slower when i slow down. I have it narrowed down to the right front tire but cant figure out what is causing it.
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We have a lot of snow and a lot of ice up here at the moment and my 2003 ford F-250 SC Fx4 isn't performing so well. The truck is stock other than a pair of 285/16R BFG A/T's
I have been noticing that my rear tires will spin while trying to go up hill on some ice or snow covered areas and my front tires just sit still while in 4x4 or 4x4 low. In the case I just described I remain stuck in place until the rear tires can get a grip then I continue up hill. I don't understand why my front tires are not spinning as well, to me this seems just like 2 wheel drive not 4x4. I have been using ESOF most of the time. I have mentioned in other threads that I do plan on upgrading to warn premium hubs, but I am wondering if its that my truck isnt actually shifting into 4x4 or if there is a reason why even in 4x4 my rear tires would spin while my front tires do not?
I am confused because when I shift on the fly while driving I can feel the 4x4 kick in because it just feels different than driving with 2 wheel drive, but then something like I described will happen and I start second guessing myself. What might be happening? It's not that I am opposed to switching to the warn premium hubs, but is that actually going to fix this issue or is my truck acting normally??
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2007 F250 4WD 5.4l ... when I turn sharply in either direction I am getting a light clunk sound similar to when you are in 4WD on blacktop and try turning. The engine also seems to wanna stall when I cut the wheel too sharp.
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I have had the truck just under a year. It has 104k on it i only drive it on weekends. Last weekend going to Home Depot about 15 miles got out and could smell brakes burning. Felt the wheels and the right rear was very hot. Got back home no smell but still hot not as hot as earlier. Pulled the wheel off it looks as if the pads and calipers are fairly new paint is still on them caliper is a TRW. The pads were stuck in the carrier even the stainless clip ends look rusted.
Cleaned it all up both sides lubed the pad carrier with pin lube. Pushed the calipers back in some both sides went in easy. The right rotor has definitley been hot. Put it all back together and went for a test drive. Came back no problems checked the temperature with a laser type heat thermometer all wheels were around 140 f. Went out yesterday morning stopped and could smell the brakes again. Drove it back home and the right rear was 300 f. others 150 to 160 f.
Jacked it up put it in neutral and the you can spin the wheels by hand. Started the truck had the wife get in put it in drive wheels turning applied the brakes they stopped let go they turn freely again tried the parking brake it works fine also. So do I buy new calipers and brakes or maybe is the wheel bearing going bad causing the brakes to heat up?ied.
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My son has a 2003 Super Duty with auto locks, but the front wheels won't lock even when turn to locked position. Also when it's in two wheel drive the front drive shaft and axles still spin, are the hubs locked up or is it in the transfer case?
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2004 Ford F250 CC 4x4 6.0L
Took the family down to the beach today. Had some tough sand to get across in a few areas to move away from the crowds. Got a little dicey and the truck got stuck in 2WD. Switched to 4WD but back tires kept spinning. Couldn't figure out why and the truck started to dig deeper in the sand. Got a little nervous and I didn't want to start the day off with having to get pulled out.
Got out of the truck, locked the hubs in manually and I was out, no problem. Left the hubs locked until we left the beach and back on pavement.
What might be the problem and why the "shift on the fly" switch on the dash didn't seem to engage the 4WD? I even tried to switch into 4L and back to 4H (truck in neutral, break pedal compressed) and still no workie. Only manually locking the hubs would engage the 4WD.
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1999 F250 super duty. I am having a problem with the front right turn signal not working. The indicator on the dash also does not work but I can hear the relay clicking double time and the rear signal works. I have changed the bulb and fuses and went under the dash and the column to be sure a connection had not come loose. I have looked through the forums to try and find an answer with no luck. What to try next?
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Pump works fine. Replaced pvh. Won't go into 4wd hi or lo no matter what I try. Even with them in lock. How do I know if hubs need replaced or just hub locks?
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2012 f250 diesel Lariat 4dr 4x4. He called me today cause he knows I do all the work on my own F250 diesel. He has heated seats in the back and he said that they turn on by them selves and they won't turn off. He had to actually disconnect the wire harness to get the heating elements to turn off so his wife's friends wouldn't burn their bottoms in the middle of august is Texas.. Any ways, he said both sides are staying on and wouldn't turn off using the switch.
I'm not very familiar with the heated seat wiring, especially for the back seats. I told him their may have been a relay that went bad, but now I"m thinking that they much have a controller or something that is acting up. He said that the front seats are acting normal. Also, he has the touch screen and navigation upgrade as well as auto climate control, not sure if this stuff matters for the back seats though...
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2013 f-250 crew cab short box, 6.2 gas with 48k miles. Right rear turn signal does not work...SOMETIMES. I took the brake light assembly off...bulb is good, turned on signal and the bulb will flash so I put it back together then drove a couple miles and then signal quits working again. I can't find any loose/corroded/bad wires at the bulb socket and I can't get the bulb to quit working when I have taillight assembly apart, (trying to replicate failure). There are never any blown fuses either.
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I have a 2001 F250 4x4 and the ESOF switch not engaging hubs, currently I have no 4x4 lights coming on in the cluster when i turn the switch. I am not experiencing any of the vaccum symptoms that most people are suggesting. I When I turn the switch i also do not hear any relays clicking. Relays have been tested, and i waited for the 45 second transfer delay that the manual mentions. ESOF switch has power, and is working properly (I know because I bought a new one in attempt to fix the problem) Basically I have no responses from any of my 4x4 indicators or parts.
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2006, ESOF. Noticed the front hubs aren't engaging but the transfer case is. What should I check?
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I have a 1995 Ford f250 Powerstroke and i do not have turn signals, rear running lights, brake lights or reverse lights. i checked the fuses and they seem to be good but i dont want to tear everything out to check the harness if it could be a bad ground. any insight?
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Made a short run to get lumber yesterday and when I got home the truck smelled hot I checked it out and found a transmission oil leak at the rear of the transmission in front of the transfer case. can not really see what is leaking only has 22,000 miles. What may have happen. 2011 F250 4x4 6.7....
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I got an 03 f250 with a 10 inch lift on 40x14.50 tires on 20x10 fuel hostage wheels. They rub my springs pretty bad when trying to make even the slightest kind of tight turn and the sound they make when they rub is even worse than them actually rubbing. My question is should i stay with this tire and wheel setup and try to get some 6061 billet aluminum 2 inch spacers? (I'm not sure about going that route though because of what i heard about spacers) or go down to some 38s with a 20x14 wheel that hopefully would push the tire away from the hub like spacers would do. I'm leaning more towards going to 38s because of the rubbing and also because I feel they might look better on the 10 inch lift rather than the 40s but dont know whats the best thing to do.
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My 07 has developed a steering gear issue.....it suddenly developed about a quarter to a half turn of slop......mechanic checked the front end and found everything to be tight and right so......I ordered a Redhead rebuilt box and will replace it upon it's arrival. My question is How often do these boxes go bad and if and when they do is it at all safe to drive the vehicle with that much play? I have to drive it about 15 miles to get to my mechanic ( far too cold for me to do it at home) and I also plow a couple of yards commercially and will need to use it there in the event of a snow storm.
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I am changing my 99 f250 4x4 from auto to manual tranny. I am just looking for pics of where the hydro line runs. I don't want line rubbing something and ruining line. Like does line run under the cab wiring harness? Like between wiring and firewall? Where on firewall does reservior get mounted usually? Are the holes all ready there for it that I am not seeing?
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