Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Putting Steering Stabilizer - Single Or Dual?
Nov 10, 2014
So I'm interested in putting a new steering stabilizer on my truck and am pretty set on the Rancho RS7000 series, but I am torn between getting a single OEM replacement or the full dual stabilizer kit. Single replacement? Did it make a difference? I've heard really good things about the dual kit, but obviously the price difference is huge. I don't do a ton of off-roading, but I do drive constantly on crappy city roads which can be just as bad
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I'm wanting to get a single in-line steering stabilizer for my '05 F250 4x4, but I can't seem to find any that include brackets.
I don't need a dual setup because I'm not running a big lift or big tires, but I want an inline stabilizer so that I can just leave the stock one in place.
What is the part number for one that comes with the mounting brackets?
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Will replacement of the original OEM steering stabilizer with a higher quality stabilizer tighten up my steering wheel play, making is more responsive?
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My 2002 250 just got ball joints, bushings, sway arms, 4 wheel alignment and new tires to top it all off. Did All this to correct the shakes, shimmies, popping and grinding in the front end. Now they say I need a steering stabilizer up front. Does any other than ford make a bolt on one and haw much and where can I get one.
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Is there a steering stabilizer for a 92 Ford F-250 custom 2wd? and what's the difference between a f250 custom and a f250 heavy duty?
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Bought a new touchscreen head unit to put in my 06 lariat f250. I have all the controls on my steering wheel for heat and radio and I don't want to lose them with a new radio. This head unit does not have the 3.5mm jack for the axxes unit but has 3 wires labeled swc1 swc2 and swc ground. It supposedly has the converter built in. any views on using a headunit with these wires?
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I'm looking to replace the worn out skyjacker or rancho steering stabilizers on the ex. Wanting to put bilsteins in there place. 5100 series to match the shocks for the truck. What are the part numbers for this setup?
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Checking the front end with the front wheels off the ground I noticed that my Suspension Stabilzer Bar has about an 1/8" up and down play in it. No side to side play at all. I checked the nut on the ball joint and it is tight but wondering if this is why I am feeling a slight tight/loose feeling when going down the freeway at 65.
It has this "tight" or a slight grab feeling when the steering wheel is centered and I move it left or right slightly (like normal steering wheel movement to stay in your lane) I don't feel this at slower speeds 30-40 etc just when I am straight on the freeway at about 65-70 mph.
Ball joints and everything else looked fine, no play noticed. Never had the "death wobble" but having this up/down play in their stabilizer bar.
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I'm on my second set of links. The replacement were Dorman 3 years ago. They are rattling again. Do I just replace them again? I forgot to add, the bushings were replaced this year.
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I have a 2011 F350 with camper package (didn't want it). When I drive on a bumpy road (without 5th wheel), the truck suspension does not absorb the shock. The ruts just throws the truck side to side. Really hard, so I can't go on a dirt, rough road. On one bump it poped off my rear tire cap.
My problem may be with the camper package trying to keep the truck from going back and forth.
There is a 7/16 inch steal rod going from the truck bed, around the differential, and back up to the other side of the truck. Is that the rear stablizer rod?? Can I disconnect it? What would be
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To tow a CASE 580L backhoe I believe a 1 ton should be just at its legal limit for towing. My question is do I need DRW's if I've got a gooseneck trailer total weight about 18K lbs (or will single rear wheels be legal)?
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I'm looking to put a 4.5" lift and 37s on my 2011 F250 which has the 6.2L gas engine and wanted some feedback from others who have the same setup. The kind of info I'm looking for is how much power did you lose, does the trans drop out of overdrive a lot on the highway, what you mpg, etc. And overall driving and performance of the truck.
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My blower works half of the time...from what I have researched it is more than likely the resistor. The thing is I can't find it..all the videos and pictures looks like they are the **** control control. Where this is located for the dual climate control?
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I putting a bit newer engine in my truck. from what I know there have been few changes in the middle of 1999. Do I need to replace the computers too or are they the same. what about the wiring harness.
My truck : 1999 (11/1998 production date) 7.3, zf6 trans, 1 alternator, 315k
Donor truck : 2001 7.3, zf6, dual alternator, 110k
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1999 to 2002 F-250 ... As the title says, looking for accurate weight difference between single cab and xtra cab.
Looking for replies from those that have knowledge from trucks that have actually been weighed, not just speculation.
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I just installed a new positive cable set for the dual battery's and the starter checks out good.
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I found a wracked 2000 f350 v10 4wd dually with 4.10 and I was wondering if I could convert it to single and swap that to my 05 v10 4wd Excursion upgrades to dana60 for 40's.... Is it possible?
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2008 F-350 Lariat, 6.4L, dual climate control. The passenger side blows ONLY hot air whereas driver side seems to blow whatever is called for. Is it right to assume this is the passenger side actuator, and this actuator is the "easy" one to replace (i.e. not pulling dash)? I read in another thread that there might be a question on determining the correct one to replace, so therefore I ask for clarification. How to verify if my assumption wrong?
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I'm putting new brake pas on my front and I want to know what is the best type to put on there. I ave a 2006 F-350 Dually.
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Ok I am getting a (6R140) transmission behaviour every morning drive or later in the day after the transmission cools down. I am experiencing a 2-3 second delay of engagement when putting truck in Reverse. This happens EVERY time whether transmission is cold or warmed up. I am also having very hard/harsh shift fares going into 3rd gear and 5th gear with the 3rd gear being the worse of the two. Also experiencing these hard/harsh shift when downshifting as well.
I took the truck to my local dealer and I let it sit over night in their lot so they could experience it at its worst after sitting all night. They definitely recognized the issue. But since it wasn't throwing and codes. I find this an unacceptable answer.
I brought to their attention that this issue is well documented online and a lot are having success with performing TSB 11-7-10 (replacing solenoids) They looked it up and said my truck doesn't apply to TSB because of the build date. My window sticker and VIN # implies the truck was built 10-11-2010. Which from my understanding, does fall under the required TSB. None the less, I insisted that I know I'm out of warranty and I will just pay to have this TSB performed. They refused.
What should I do? I know everyday I run my truck with this issue it is decreasing the reliability of this transmission and it will most likely end with a full transmission replacement.
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2012 f250 SC xl 6.2 - Is it normal to hear a single clunk sound on occasion when accelerating from a stop sign? Doesn't happen all the time mind you and I don't ever remember hearing it in the past.
Now just today, while backing up my driveway, as soon as I started the reverse motion, I heard the same clunk. Sounds like metal to metal and comes from the rear of the truck.
Only 7000 miles on her and I treat her like a baby...anything I should be concerned with?
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