Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Steering Box Adjustment?
Sep 15, 2015
on my diesel, the steering box has a larger lock nut on top of another smaller (5/8") nut at the lash screw. I was wondering if the lower 5/8" nut might turn with the upper lock nut if I don't also hold it in place? because if the lower nut is fixed to the cover then I don't have to worry about it. I'd just loosen the upper 17mm lock nut so I can make a minor lash adjustment.
It's just that I didn't expect to see both an upper and a lower nut securing the lash screw. I'm beginning to noticed some minor sector shaft play. being that it's a diesel the fan shroud is basically in the way, if I need to use two tools at once, there's not much room in there for two ratchets with extensions. The reason for my concern is that at center I start to see minor drift/bump steer. Haven't looked too deep in the components just yet.
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At center, my truck is able to turn 2 1/2 revolutions to the right and only 1 1/4 turns to the left. Making sharp left turns is not possible currently. What needs to be adjusted in order to get the steering centered and even?
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I installed after market HID lights (Including light Assy) and there re no adjustments on the new housing, right now they are close but the passenger side is shinning high. Am I screwed and there is nothing I can do?
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I have a 99 f-350 , which i bought recently and either the calibers are froze up in the rear or the cable looks too tight.. Is there any adjustment.... Every place i looked it seems to be none..... on my old 1988. Icould adjust it where the 2 rear cables joined the 1.... Am I missing something or cut the 1 main cable and add a turn buckle....
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I have a 2000 Ford F-350, I can only adjust the mirrors (both) in one direction, (to the left only) the up and down movement works also.
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I've put about 500 miles on my new to me 06 F250 4x4, CC, SB, V-10. One thing that is slightly annoying is the shifter position in R, L, 1 and 2. Shifter is against my knee in those positions. Re bent the shifter to place the more to the right? I have buckets with a console so I don't need to worry about a center passenger's legs. I have plenty of benders and metal working tools at my disposal, just asking for some guidance.
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My 05 has an incredibly annoying door squeak that is right behind my ear on the drivers door. If I pull in on the door handle just a little it stops. I tried to adjust the door to close a little quieter, but I don't seem to have any adjustment on the latch in the door or on the door pillar. Am I missing something? The hinges are tight so the door is not really moving up and down that much, but It is making me crazy.
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How do I adjust the parking brake on my 08 F250? It's not holding when my truck is parked on a hill.
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Are the parking brakes on rear disks adjustable at all? Mine doesn't hold very well anymore, but I'm not quite ready to rebuild the whole thing. If there are adjusters (similar to drums), which way you turn them on which side of the truck?
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The problem is I haven't seen one for a recent (2011+) SD. I don't see anything that resembles a rear drum. They look like 2 huge regular disc brakes.
I live on a hill. My old man taught me to put the trans in neutral, autos and manuals, put the ebrake on and make sure it holds the vehicle, then put the trans into park or 1st gear. This way the weight of the vehicle doesn't rest on the transmission.
How do I adjust the Ebrake? It's ALMOST holding the truck, just needs a minor tweak. I don't see the dust cover the write ups described at all. The one that reveals the Star Wheel. Are they different on these years then prior SD's?
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Was checking fuses for why my 3rd brake light and pedal adjustment switch does not work. Was also looking for a fuse to tie into so that a light in the cab floorboard will stay on when the headlights or marker lights are on... After trying several spots to no avail (finally putting it into the bright headlight fuse). I got the light to work.... But now my ABS light stays on!!! Also 3rd brake still not working...
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I have an 06 F-250 5.4 gas w/138k. It had recently had a lot of play on the wheel (15 degrees maybe) and last week I made the move to replace the gearbox with a redhead box. All seemed to go ok, but now the steering is stiff and it won't come all the way back to center after a turn. It turns smoothly and completely with no binding, but it has to be moved the last 1/3 turn back to center.
I flushed the fluid initially with Valvoline max life fully syn. Then second guessed myself after the problem started happening so I switched it back to regular Mercon. No improvement.
I had it on stands today and it was extremely difficult for me to turn my tires left to right manually (at the wheel). The only other thing I did was adjust the sleeve on the drag link to straighten out the steering wheel.
Should I be able to turn the tires left and right from the wheel easily? Every now and then I hear a whine from the pump which I never had before, but 99% of the time it seems fine and is quiet. it just feels like something is over tight but everything should be to spec.
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the driver/rear suicide door combo is rubbing at the top and thus rattling on bumps. Looks to me like it is actually from the rear door as the gap in the very back is very wide at the top. the driver door gaps look normal along the front. Before I dig into this I wanted to check and find out the best way to approach. Is there an adjustment inside the hinge? the bolts on the jam look solid and have never been adjusted. Perhaps there is a hinge pin in there?
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Is there a steering stabilizer for a 92 Ford F-250 custom 2wd? and what's the difference between a f250 custom and a f250 heavy duty?
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I'm might be needing a gear box rebuilt or maybe buy one already rebuilt.
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I think my steering gear is going out having problems and not sure what's going on got fluid no leaks??? 2006 f250 6.0 l diesel
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I just purchased a 99 F250 Superduty 4x4. Very low mileage (63000). Everything on this truck is great except the steering. I flat towed a 73 VW Bug about 100 miles and it was the most white knuckle drive of my life. Couldn't take both hands off the wheel without the whole truck starting to wander all over the road.
Before I take it in to have the alignment checked and get told that every single part under the front of the truck needs to be replaced, I'm wondering if this is a "common" problem with this truck that others have encountered. One person has already told me to just replace the front hub assemblies, the tie rods, and the steering gear box and all will be well.
I'm hoping all those parts don't actually need to be replaced - especially since there are only 63K miles on the truck. Tie rods seem solid with no play. Not sure about steering gear or unit bearings.
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I noticed the front diff of my truck was whining, so it decided to take a look. I noticed that the passenger side hub would not unlock when it was in the lock position. My truck has the manual floor shifted 4x4 and the manual hubs, not the ESOF. I removed the locking hub from the hub bearing assy and I noticed that the axle shaft still moved when i spun the wheel. I know the manual locking hub is trashed (pieces fell out when i removed it from the truck) but does the fact that the axle shaft still spins in the assy with no hub installed also mean that my hub bearing assembly is trashed and warrants replacement?
Finally, the number one most annoying thing with this "new to me" truck, is this noise in the steering column. It is very hard to describe, but when slowly turning the wheel, either left or right, it will produce a groaning/grinding sound that CAN be felt in the steering wheel. There is a roughness/vibrating/binding type feeling in the wheel when this noise is made. I lubricated the boot that goes through the firewall, and the spring around the shaft behind the turn signal switch with silicone spray and the noise goes on. It really feels like it is somewhere in the column, but as I said before I do not know anything about these superdutys. I work for chrysler and I have never experienced anything like this on a dodge truck.
Its not the best but here is a video, little grinding noise that I am speaking of is most noticeable when camera angle changes to the side of the column, just before door buzzer makes noise : Grind steering - YouTube .....
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I sold my truck couple years ago and just bought a 2001 f250 SD crew cab with the 5.4 110000 miles on it. when I got it the ball joints were completely shot on it so I replaced them. I done this before I ever drove the truck. it drove all over the road and was fighting the steering wheel to keep the thing up in the road.a couple weeks later my steering box was leaking, so I put a brand new one on there. no change in the steering.
I changed all 4 tires with used ones off my sons truck he took off when he bought new ones and still no change. ordered and put new drag link and tie rod ends and everything I could change on the steering and still drives the same way. my steering wheel is straight but seems like you turn a little one way to drive it straight and a lot the other way especially notice it going around curves.
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Usually in heavy moist conditions the head lights will not come on unless the tilt steering is in the fully seated down position. Solutions???
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My father's truck is still having power steering issues. After replacing the power steering pump I went from no power steering to power steering when I turn right but not when I turn left. So now I'm going to replace the Steering Gear Box. Where I can get step by step instructions on the best way to get to the gear box and how to get it out?
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