Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Ticking Noise Coming From Right Side When Push The Accelerator
May 7, 2015
2002 Ford F-250 5.4l ... What is the difference in sound between a lifter tick and an exhaust leak? I have a ticking noise, almost sounds more like a puff of air noise, it only makes the noise when I push the accelerator and is coming from the right side. Noise is most noticeable if I put my head under the passenger side front fender. I am guessing I have an exhaust leak somewhere between the heads at cat but just wondering about the difference in sound. I'd think if it were the lifters they would tick at idle, right? The truck sounds great at idle (after doing a tune up) I just want to get rid of this annoying tick when I accelerate.
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With the front hubs locked locked I get a ticking noise out of the front axle almost like there is rocks in the hubcaps. But unlock the hubs and the noise goes away. Also, if I put it in 4 wheel with the hubs unlocked i get no noise.
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I have a 2003 F250 4wd with a 5.4 and 6 spd and 175,000 miles. Yesterday I came out to start it and noticed it had a ticking noise coming from underneath. According to the stock gauge it had normal oil pressure and the oil looked nice and clean and was full. I checked it while running and was able to verify that it is coming from the bottom oil pan/bell housing area. Before anybody says exhaust leak, I just put on JBA headers a few months ago and verified it wasn't an exhaust leak. I was assuming it was a rod bearing so I figured I would let it get to operating temp and see what happens. Once it started getting warm it started getting quiet and finally it just stopped once it hit full operating temp. Took it for a drive and found that it does it when in gear no matter what but stops when I put it in neutral and let out on the clutch. it makes the noise in neutral with clutch pushed in, but stops as soon as you let it out.
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I have a tick in my 2001 V10, 190,000 (mostly easy) miles. I've changed oil/filter regularly at 3,000 mile intervals using Valvoline 5W20.
The tick seems to be on the passenger side of the engine, and is loudest when the engine is cold. It follows engine speed. The tick seems to be loudest as the engine transitions from acceleration to deceleration when I lift the throttle--I've NOT seen that posted before.
So, an exhaust manifold leak seems to be the most obvious? I installed a Banks Power Pack with Torque Tube headers in 2009 (about 90,000 miles ago) using thread lock compound on the supplied bolts and torqued to the instructions--I don't' remember the torque setting, but will look it up. I've listened to each exhaust port with a mechanic's stethoscope, all I hear is a smoothly running rotating assembly! Same result with the stethoscope on either side of the front cover (for timing chain slap.) NO tick through the stethoscope! I plan to check all the header bolts' torque this weekend, but don't really expect to find a problem. I will also scoot under the truck and recheck all the exhaust pipe clamps.
I've also listened to all the injectors--two of them (#3 and #4) were noticeably quieter than the other eight. But, none of them stood out as being particularly noisy. I've seen a couple of threads here that asked what a normal injector should sound like, but never an answer. How they should sound?
I've listened to each coil. I can hear a slight arc on #3. I believe the spring in the boot is not seated on the coil tab correctly (happened before.) I will correct that this weekend also. Nothing sounded like a loose plug, though I don't really know what that would sound like with the stethoscope.
What else could/should I check to avoid removing the valve/cam covers? (For cam follower or rocker trouble). I don't mind doing that, but don't want to go to the trouble and then find it wasn't necessary. I may spin on a Motorcraft filter (I'm just 800 miles into the last oil change now, I usually use Fram) but the tick stays with me until the engine is normal operating temperature, so I don't think it is from bleed back.
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I've been noticing a low pitched humming noise coming from what sounds like the passenger side of the engine. it happened only occasionally at first but within a week of first hearing it, it is now almost all the time. here is some specifics...
-the noise always starts about 2 or 3 seconds after starting the engine.
-the pitch or loudness does not change with increased rpms or with truck in gear driving.
-the noise randomly stops for no given reason whether driving or idling then starts back up again.
-there are no performance issues while making noise, no dip in rpms, nothing. still runs the same
I've listened with the hood up and cant identify where the noise is coming from. is this something i need to get fixed asap or no? I've got a 2001 f250 5.4 with a manual tranny ....
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I'm assuming its a valve.
2004 F250 with 5.4L. 128,000 miles. Oil changed every 4K but its my work truck. She works hard for a living towing landscape trailers 98% of the time.
When the engine is first cranked, there is a ticking sound from the right side. Its quite noticeable but only does this until I get going. Once I get to driving, it fades away. If I turn the engine off and let it sit for a little while, when I start it, the ticking is back again. As long as I keep it running, it stays quiet.
If this is a valve or rocker arm, how big of a repair is it? What happens if I don't deal with it until the winter (off-season)?
I've tried Marvel Mystery Oil and now with this oil change, I have Rislone in there. Both have made no difference.
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Just noticed a ticking sound coming from my engine... just turned 160,000. Hoping nothing serious...
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I have a v10 ticking on drivers side when I first take off in it. It doesn't do it idling and stops after you drive about a mile. I just had ford tune it up before this started so I took it back to have them check the plugs and they said it was a rod! Didn't sound right too me but I did check manifold bolts and they all was in place. Also if it was a rod would the noise go away???
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Diesel truck starts fine. Idles up in cold. Runs fine. Sitting in cab I hear a random clicking. This sound comes and goes. Driving down the highway at 70 it will do it. After an hour or so it won't do it any more. If I shut the truck off and start it again the random clicking will resume it comes and goes? Where to start looking. It sounds like the click from dead batteries but the batteries will turn over engine and start with no problems.
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I was having a ticking problem with the engine under load so I went ahead and did my manifold gaskets. I had a new 5.4 put in my 02 f350 last winter, and at that time I also installed gibson shorty headers. The tech had to plug the egr port with a pipe plug. But any ways, I pulled the headers last month and I used Percy's aluminum header gaskets. I also took the time to wire wheel all of the flanges and the mating surfaces. The one on the ball and socket flange was leaking on the passenger side, so I permanently sealed it with some 1800* epoxy.
The leak seemingly went away for a week or so, but it has returned. I sprayed down all of the mating surfaces with soapy water, but I can't find the leak. It only happens when accelerating or when i downshift to go uphill. So, at my wits end, I went to try and retorque my spark plugs. I've done half of them so far. Haven't driven it yet, but i was curious as to others thoughts on the subject. This leak cannot be heard at idle, nor at any RPM while in park or neutral. It is only apparent when driving. Definitely sounds like an exhaust leak to me.
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Ive been looking around for Pickups for a wile now and found one (at the manheim auto auction) and it is a beauty. Crew Cab Long Box lariant with every factory option available for a 2008 6.8L Triton V10 truck. AND it only has 64,000 miles on it!!!
Pre Sale Inspection told us the truck has the upper engine tick that is heard sometimes in the V10. Doesn't seem to at all affect drive ability. Block announcement would be Green light, yellow light for upper engine noise. Truck has been priced accordingly. Look at what MMR is.
What this is, id like to put an offer in on the truck but if at 19,600 dollars if i am gonna have to do a lot of motor work or put a new motor in it i dont see it being worth it.
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I have a 2000 F250 5.4 that has a ticking/knocking noise. After about 30-60 seconds of first starting the truck in the morning, the ticking/knocking noise appears. It sounds like its coming through the exhaust system and seems to be louder under the front passenger side wheel well. When I rev the engine up, it seems to go away. Does this engine have a cam phaser? Could it be timing chain slap?
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My 2004 f250 5.4 Triton has been making a sort of ticking noise, it almost sounds like my lifters have a little play in them but it also sounds like an exhaust manifold leak. They both would sound about the same and it seems to be getting a little worse of gas mileage than before. Also, the check engine light was on from Saturday into Sunday night then it shut off Sunday night and hasn't been back.
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I have a 2013 F250 with a 6.2L gas motor, 50k miles.
Recently, I've noticed it takes longer to start. The motor will crank at regular speed but will take longer to start. It's always taken longer than a single rotation from day one but lately it's gotten really bad.
Even more recently, I hear a ticking noise under load, or even sometimes at idle. It sounds like an exhaust leak or worn lifter noise. Could these somehow be connected? What this could be?
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6.2L F250 truck is just shy of 60k runs good however on cold startup there's now a pretty loud ticking noise for a short period (30 seconds) until it warms up then it slowly goes away. Once its warmed up there isn't much of anything.
Did these have exhaust manifold gasket problems like the 5.4? Hoping that's it if not, any other common problems that would make that ticking noise and then go away quickly once the engine is warmed up.
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My 2012 f350 6 lift when I push the brakes it pulls to the left kinda bad and the steering wheel is off to the right..
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I had have a problem with water coming into my cab on the passenger side only. 2006 Ford F250 SC 5.4L XLT 4x4
My truck has been parked for a few days and we had lots of rain in our area. I notice the floor carpet on the passenger side was wet. I did not use the heater or A/C at any time for the pass month. The water is coming in from under the dash on the passenger side only. I shook the truck and water starts pouring out of this black unit. If you look inside you can see a fan. I'm guessing a heater unit.
Can a drain be clogged on the outside under the wiper guard? I will try to remove the plastic guards tomorrow and see if anything is wrong.
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I've got a 02 SD v10 4x4 with Warn hubs and 97k. Bought it a couple months ago and I've noticed a vibration coming from the front driver side. Symptoms are that of a bad wheel bearing; vibration that increases with speed and not RPM, seems to lessen on left handed turns (weight transfers from driver side to passenger side) and gets worse on right turns. Also the truck seems very twitchy and hard to keep straight on the highway.
Snowed the other day so I locked in my warns (just in case) and I instantly noticed the noise and vibration almost went away entirely except for on the freeway around 70+ mph. Also noticed it seems less "Twitchy" on the freeway. Mind you the hubs are locked in but still in 2wd. After doing a little bit of reading some were saying this is a sign of bad needle bearings and not the entire hub.
I haven't jacked up the tire and checked typical movement in a bad wheel bearing. I know my way around vehicles and 4x4's pretty well...
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2002 Ford F350 Powerstroke, 7.3L, Automatic, 4 wheel drive .... AFE Stage II Intake, 5" full exhaust, TS 6-position tuner chip, Swamps 140lb injectors
Intermittent accelerator problem: no response, just goes to idle. Runs perfectly with no other issues but zero response when the accelerator it pressed. There seems to be no pattern to the problem as this happens at any speed/position on the pedal. When the accelerator goes out the check engine light in the lower left corner comes on. All fuses are good.
Symptoms began a month or so ago feeling like an occasional 'hiccup' or hesitation. Symptoms occurred a few more times until a couple of weeks ago (Friday, 2/20/15) when it left my son stranded a few miles from home. He was able to limp it to a parking lot and we left it over night and went and towed it back to the house the next morning. The truck started and ran fine just no accelerator so we towed it idling so we would have power steering/brakes, etc. As we neared the house the engine light went out and the accelerator began working and he was able to drive the truck the remaining 1/2 mile home.
Most all of the research I did came back with the Throttle Position Sensor as the culprit. I was able to order one (the complete accelerator pedal assembly that is*) at a Napa store in a nearby town and picked it up on Tuesday (2/24). As soon as I installed it everything worked fine.
As an aside, I have read a lot about the mid-2001 switch from the units with the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and IVS (Idle Validation Switch) as separately connected units to the 'new' style where these parts are combined into one and there is a single 5-wire connector. Being a 2002 there was no question as to which one I had. Just be aware of the difference. Also, this part is simple to change. The connector has a clip that you pinch down on with your thumb and then pull off. I use my little electric impact with 1/4" extension and a 10mm socket. Zip, zip, zip an you're done. It takes me longer to get my tools out.
A few days later on Friday (2/27) it presented the sporadic accelerator symptom a couple of times again but was able to get the truck home. The next morning I unplugged, cleaned (CRC Contact Cleaner), and dabbed into the connector a small amount of dielectric grease to insure good connection. (I had read that in my research as well). That seemed to work beautifully and he said it ran fine all day and until the next afternoon (Sunday, 3/1) when it began acting up yet again.
I continued to research and could find nothing that would suggest anything other than the Throttle Position Sensor. I read that some other folks had gone through a few of the Napa/aftermarket units though so I began thinking that maybe I had just gotten a bad unit.
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I have a 2005 F250 5.4L 2wd. Parked the vehicle in my driveway and the next morning there was no response from the accelerator and the CEL light and the wrench light on. I pulled the codes and came up with codes P2104, P2107 and P2110. The KOEO code was P2122. I checked the wiring and connectors and all appear to be fine I replaced the throttle body and no change. I removed the accelerator pedal and tried it on another vehicle and it worked fine. I have power to pin 16 on the diagnostic port. After clearing the codes and rescanning the same codes come up immediately.
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I have had this truck for several years. I have only had a few issues. I've heard of engine noise issues but I have never had any until now. My 5.4 is making a knocking sound that just started. It goes away if I tap the accelerator. It has over 200,000 miles on it. I change the oil every 3000-4000 miles. No additives and always conventional 5-20. Is this a serious issue? I've seen people talk about using thicker oil but I'm very hesitant.
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